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Upgrading brakes on my V2 STI RA


DXROLLA
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Have had a search on here and cant find what im looking for so will ask instead.

Im wanting to upgrade the brakes on my sti ra, currently is just running the standard brakes, what im looking at doing is upgrading the fronts to the later model sti 4 pots and leaving rears standard, is this worth doing? Also is it a bolt up job or need to modify things to fit? Will be doing new pads and disks at the same time so will get those to suit the new calipers.

OR is is worth doing the rears at the same time if i can find some, which from what i understand may need some modifications to fit.

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Check out my post from awhile back when I did mine (mainly fronts)

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,29018.msg403715.html#msg403715

Here is a list of things I bought with prices. You may not need all of these but just to give you an idea and you may decide on different brands/grades of parts.

-Front 4 pots second hand $200

-Genuine Subaru seal kit for 4 pots from Winger Subaru Auckland $65

-Genuine Subaru Cross Springs x 2 from Winger Subaru Auckland $103.50

-Cusco master cylinder brace/bracket $177

-Dba650s slotted front rotors - $412

-Average trw brake pads - $90

-Motul brake fluid rbf600 $30 per 500ml bottle

-Goodridge brake lines $199

I should mention that I upgraded my rotor size from 277mm I think to 294mm size for my 4 pots.

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may also need new wheels. As the factory v2 sti gold rims wont clear the 4pots.

v3-v6 sti gold rims clear 4pot and v7 sti will clear 4pots and brembos. so you\'ll have to check your wheels if you know somebody who has the 4 pots see if you can test fit your wheels to see if they clear. i\'ve done the 4pot and 2pot job using the backing plates from the v7/8 wrx rear hubs so have new wheel bearings in the back.

I\'ve got them running on znoelli slotted and dimpled drilled rotors with goodridge braided brake lines and castrol super responsive fluid but might try that motul rbf600 when i replace the front brake lines as i use the longer brake lines of the goodridge set in the back as the original was to short.

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i\'ve done this,will need larger rotors.can\'t remmember exact size sorry.Stops alot better,noticed spare tyre wont fit on but just replace rear tyre to front and spare to back.oh and i didnt have to touch backing plate or anything.also may want to take car to another mech for wofs otherwise will need a cert even tho some models the same came out with 4-pot factory.

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 bford said:

i\'ve done this,will need larger rotors.can\'t remmember exact size sorry.Stops alot better,noticed spare tyre wont fit on but just replace rear tyre to front and spare to back.oh and i didnt have to touch backing plate or anything.also may want to take car to another mech for wofs otherwise will need a cert even tho some models the same came out with 4-pot factory.

294mm for four pots.

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zerosports1.jpg

im selling some zerosport calipers that have been reconditioned with a set of half worn pads, they come with braided lines. They\'re been painted with high temp caliper paint and clear coat and new AP high temp racing seals.

They\'re actually made by Endless, a high end japanese brand, they are straight bolt on and use 294mm rotors

$600

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yep same as those brakes, the mounts were looking a little rough so they\'ve been freshly powdercoated black. Yes direct bolt on.

The paint has been baked on in the oven, the mrs loved that. I had them bead blasted to take them back to bare alloy before respraying them

My car is certed for OEM brakes, so if I run them I would need a re-cert to get them listed.

You dont need a cert to run them, its the same as the drama with wheel sizes on a cert, if you have 17\'s listed you cant get a wof with 18\'s even though its normally legal to run them.

I\'ll throw in a set of brand new Hawk HP+ pads if you want them, too big for my calipers but I was going to cut them down to fit.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

So ive just finished putting the 4pots on the front of my car, and cant seem to get the damn thing bled properly, ive only been bleeding the front should i bleed the rear aswell? When i took the old breaks off i clamped the line so i figured there shouldnt be much air in the lines. When i was bleeding there didnt seem to be any air coming out. Do i need to have the car running when bleeding? When i start the car i have no pedal at all :-\

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there are many posts covering brake bleeding, have a look

a common error is the orientation of the calipers as they fit both ways - caliper bleed nipple should point UP

btw; i put these calipers on my v2 sti ra and hammered the setup on track. don\'t worry about slotted rotors, they just eat the pads. the v2 master cylinder works ok, but i found better pedal feel with the larger diameter one that comes with the 4pot package. probably not worth the swap unless you are hardcore

a bigger issue i had was bad front wheel bearings which repetitively ruined my rotors. if you encounter shudder problems bear in mind the factory bearings in a v2 are getting on in age

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