gearbox stuck to engine block #$%#!!*

[loner]

I\'m trying to get the box off to change the clutch, but the gearbox just won\'t budge at all. It seems to be

fused to the engine block. I have undone everything and sprayed CRC on the dowels and the bottom bolts...

the clutch fork pin has been removed... I\'ve tried bashing it a bit with a mallet... levering it off against

the engine sub frame... no luck.

Any tips or tricks out there?

[Joker]

pull off the clutch boot and slip a long flat screw driver dwn and relase the bearing

[loner]

 JoKer said:

pull off the clutch boot and slip a long flat screw driver dwn and relase the bearing

oh will that be securing it? doh!

just remembered I missed the "pushing the clutch fork forward" step... and just took the pin out.

[Joker]

think that does the same thing, release bearing towards the motor

[Koom]

The clutch fork only stops the two parts completely coming apart. Can usually get them 10-15mm apart til that becomes a problem.

I\'ve had similar in the past with an engine and gearbox that hadn\'t been apart since they left the factory I reckon. Took lots of brute force and hammering things to get them apart (along with spray penetrant everywhere). Heat would probably help break the seal.

p.s. CRC 5.56 won\'t help. You need a penetrant (CRC also make one, I like Wurth Rost Off best) to get in between the parts and break down the corrosion thats sealed them together.

[Stoffa]

ROST OFF FTW!! that shit rocks

[titian]

Yep. Steel pins and aluminium housings + water Equals freeze together

Rost off then drive a wedge between the housings at the strongest point on each side then from side to side with a spacer to hold the gap opposite to the side being wedged. Eventually :) :) Ya! success will be achieved.

Usually the first occasion of removal when this occurs.

[Guest]

I do the wedge thing with a few screwdrivers and wobble it from the back for max lever effect. ;D

[loner]

ok thanks guys. It\'s off now... not sure Joker\'s suggestion helped... but for some reason it just decided to

let go a bit at the the top of the box, so I was able to get a screw driver in and wedge it off... not sure if it\'s

been off before... and from the amount of dirt on the clutch cover I wouldn\'t be surprised if it was the factory

unit... but I find it hard to believe it\'s original with 108000 kms on the clock.

[funkytown]

108000 isnt unreasonable for a factory car / clutch

[loner]

yeah maybe if it was driven gently it\'s whole life... but an STi?

[Guest]

 loner said:

yeah maybe if it was driven gently it\'s whole life... but an STi?

Sti have better clutch dude so if it was driven gently also last even longer wouldnt it?

[Kiwi_Fozze]

my sti is at 160, still on standard clutch... my forester was at 219 on standard clutch too....

in saying that, the sti really needs changing lol

[loner]

My last STi I went through a clutch in around 22000 kms... I thought that was pretty good at the time

[albaru]

Mmm, have seen you drive. There\'s always a lot of smoke - at the time I thought it was coming from the tyres

[loner]

Yeah but that\'s because the clutch is old and won\'t hold up to launching... I\'m hoping the next time you see smoke it will be the tyres

[D-Style]

Have you removed the infamous Clutch fork Hex bolt?

[funkytown]

 D-Style']

Have you removed the infamous Clutch fork Hex bolt?

[quote name='loner said:

....I have undone everything and sprayed CRC on the dowels and the bottom bolts...

the clutch fork pin has been removed...

would seem so fella - read on and hes even split the block off already too!!

[loner]

yup... even got the flywheel to the machine shop this morning... when I asked how much it was going to cost, I was told "less than $10,000"... I\'m guessing less than $50...

[loner]

fuck fuck fuck. can\'t get the box to go on. first time I forced it a bit and got all paranoid about the spigot... so took it all a part

and replaced it... now again, it just won\'t go the last cm or 2... it\'s like trying to thread a 100 kg needle.

[titian]

LOL...Was going to say earlier Jam a bit of 4x2 between radiator top and alternator to achieve re alignment

Works every time. See this post ;) ;D

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,34576.0.html

[kamineko]

as an aside, it might pay to check your engine mounts are still in one piece. at least then its just one axis you need to get right.

[DRFVDR]

Was the clutch aligned correctly, sounds like it is going just far enough to not connect to the clutch.also try turning the great box to help the splines Line up

Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2

[loner]

The engine mounts are ok... the splines are lined up... it\'s the spigot bearing that is being a bitch... I have had the box lined up perfectly...

well appearing to be lined up... but it just won\'t budge. I had a jack under the front of the engine to help line it up... but no luck.

[Guest]

Are you doing it by yourself? I did the forester one by myself and used a leg to lift the jack and jimmied the front into place. Doing the wrx I couldnt get the damn thing ended up getting a hand 20 minutes got 2 bolts in but wouldnt go into spigot. Then dropped box and tried again went on first pop. Tongues got to be hanging out the right way. Id rather pull the engine to do the clutch its way quicker.