What is causing this noise ?

[clintondane]

I noticed a noise coming from the car a couple days ago and immediately thought it was a stone in the brakes. This evening I took the front left wheel off, removed brake pads and looked for stones or anything that may cause the noise. Before I removed the pads I made sure to move the wheel and the noise was definitely coming from that wheel. Anyway, what I noticed was the inner brake pad was worn unevenly, and there were no stones etc. Moved the wheel without the pads in and no noise. Put them back in and what do you know, there it is. So my question is this, could an unevenly worn brake pad be causing this or is it something more sinister. If it is indeed the brake pad, would it imply that the rotor may be the cause of the uneven wear?

I know it\'s a bit garbled and all over the place but if anyone can offer advice it\'d be appreciated.

Thanks

[funkytown]

Probly pads yes. They have a wear tab that touches the rotor when they get low and igs purpose is to squeal to give you warning its time to change them.

Bend fhe wear tab back and retest

Its not usually rotor that causes un even wear- its sticky pots in the calipers or jammed sliders if they are your run of the mill two pots

[clintondane]

Hmmm, cool. Brake pads I think I can do. Was going by my gut when I removed the calliper. Didn\'t notice a wear tab? Will try again tomorrow with some better light. Was working by torch light tonight, that\'s just how we roll in the wops, lol.

[funkytown]

Google image search brake pad wear indicator. Obvious as.

[kamineko]

wear tab is usually on the inner brake pad, so seems likely if thats the worn pad. do the pads look to be the same make/material? anyway bend it back a little and see if the noise persists

also check if the caliper can slide nicely. i assume its a 2-pot sliding type.

not quite a suby pad but this should exist on your inner pad

[clintondane]

Thanks guys, I think I now know what I\'m looking at/for. Question regarding changing of the pads themselves. Obviously new ones will slot in easily enough. Getting the pistons back in or down if you know what I mean, that\'s another story. Would a spanner across the both of them work if I used a clamp of some kind?

[kamineko]

probably best to get help from someone who understands the brakes properly. we could explain everything but it is your brakes..

[clintondane]

Have done the back ones in the past with some help from Ryn in Dunedin. Surely shouldn\'t be too difficult or dissimilar?

[rslegy]

It is a bit different because u have to deal with 2 pistons so when u move 1 the other 1 want to push out. The best way i found was to put something across them and use a g clamp or big ajustable pliers

[clintondane]

That\'s what I meant when I said about a spanner across the pair of them and using a clamp of some kind. Thanks bud.

[clintondane]

Once new pads are in, is there a bedding in procedure or something to get the new pads working properly?

[nickch]

 clintondane said:

Once new pads are in, is there a bedding in procedure or something to get the new pads working properly?

There\'s a specific tool for it. never had to change a 2 piston before, but a block of wood would work under the clamp

But you could rangi it with clamp of some sort.

Bedding in procedure would depend on the brake pads.

Most would involve going up to speed, and then hard brake down to a slower speed (not stop)...

And repeat several times..

My pagid ones were not very doable on public roads.

http://www.braketechnology.com/brakepadbedding.html

[AAAAAAAAARRRa]

I find the best way to push both pistons in is to use a g clamp and the old worn pad, pushes them evenly then

[DRFVDR]

 AAAAAAAAARRRa said:

I find the best way to push both pistons in is to use a g clamp and the old worn pad, pushes them evenly then

This is exactly how I do them

some people suggest opening the bleed valve before pushing pistons back in so that the old fluid is not forced back thru the ABS unit ( I dont do this) BUT it will require a bleed after the job is done.

Bedding in should be done( although the pads i use have a titanium strip to eliminate the need for it)

the way I do it is ( after doing a few wee slow speed stops to make sure the brakes are actually working) find empty piece of road , take car to 80 km/hr then slow car using moderate brake pressure to 60 km/hr then accelerate slowly to 80 again and repeat a few times, just remember to give the brakes a chance to cool between bedding in applications.

[clintondane]

Ok, so bleeding the brakes is something I\'ve never done. I know the bleed nipple is around the back but have no idea how to go about bleeding the brakes and putting in new fluid. Is it a 1 person job or not? If it\'s a 1 person job please provide as much detail as possible.

On a side note, got home from work and removed the pads and found the offending wear indicator. Pushed it back and voila, noise gone! Still gonna order a new set of brakes though.

Cheers.

[94 Leone]

2 people required. bleed from farthest from brake booster to closest so rear left, then rear right, passenger front, drivers front. either one of the people pump the brake pedal while you\'ve got the little bit open. pump till no air bubbles and re tighten. move on to next wheel and repeat until finished. boom. you just bled your brakes. feel free to add anything ive missed.

[Guest]

Might want to check the manual there sydenham.

[94 Leone]

either closest or furthest. it\'s been a while since i bled brakes. .

[Guest]

Would want to double check but Im pretty sure RF - LR - LF - RR.

[94 Leone]

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=1337.0

you were right. dual circuit brakes diagonal stuff. was taught on the old mans landcruiser- different bag haha.

[rslegy]

If u need a hand pm me and i can come and help

[clintondane]

Sweet mate. Where do you live?

[rslegy]

In chch

[clintondane]

Cool, I live in Methven so it\'s gonna be hard to come around and help, lol.

[rslegy]

Its olny an hour and half drive