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Posted

yeah. Who can write up the parallel fuel rail mod? I can make heaps of bits at work but i just want to do it the easy way.

What does the water line through the throttle body and idle air do?

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Posted
 QUIKGT said:

Stops them freezing. I bypassed both but had hot idle issues, so ran it through the idle control only.

Interesting, It's only active on warmup.

Posted

The coolant through the throttle body. All of the coolant is flowed through Heater core, IAC, Throttle body and Turbo; before the thermostat opens.

Posted
 
yeah. Who can write up the parallel fuel rail mod? I can make heaps of bits at work but i just want to do it the easy way.

What does the water line through the throttle body and idle air do?

Yeap good idea, can anyone write it up, how to do it etc? going to put my new engine in my wagon in the weekend and might as well do it while its still out of the car, should make it a bit easier. Also anyone know if its worth doing using greys? does it still up the fuel a bit?

Guest boostcut
Posted

my uncle runs a drag car with a twin turbo 4.5 nissan v8 that makes around 850hp. and instead of having an intercooler uses a water/methanol injection setup straight into intake. and in 7.9something seconds uses 3litres of the stuff. so a very measured amount of water is great for your engine but gulping alot can have serious consequences so id use that flexible ducting you can buy to stop water tracking up the pipe aswel

Posted
 zarnah said:
 
yeah. Who can write up the parallel fuel rail mod? I can make heaps of bits at work but i just want to do it the easy way.

What does the water line through the throttle body and idle air do?

Yeap good idea, can anyone write it up, how to do it etc? going to put my new engine in my wagon in the weekend and might as well do it while its still out of the car, should make it a bit easier. Also anyone know if its worth doing using greys? does it still up the fuel a bit?

There's one in my single conversion thread. I can split it off into it's own topic if you want.

Posted

Time for an update.

6439418316a10251241455l.jpg

How much difference does the fuel rail mod make when your only runnung 12 - 14 psi?

standard has worked for this car for the last 10 years.

Posted

Would have been best to have angled it to get rid of the post AFM 90 degree bend.

Fuel rail mod is to stop lean on piston #4 and will give you piece of mind when raising boost pressures, not a power adder by itself.

Posted

Not many more ways to come out of the factory air filter. It also would have beem better to use aluminium instead of 304 stainless at 1.2 mm wall. I prob could have done turbo to and custom made a waic to replace the factory one. Lots of things that could have been done "better". Truth is the system i have built with scrap steel and a little bit of my own time is whole heaps more then the car will ever "need". 90 deg bend will be fine.

Posted
 BC5RA said:

Would have been best to have angled it to get rid of the post AFM 90 degree bend.

Fuel rail mod is to stop lean on piston #4 and will give you piece of mind when raising boost pressures, not a power adder by itself.

its a niddle pick but isnt it #3? closest to the driver?

and yes its not a power adder - its a safety "I dont want to melt pistons"

Posted
 funkytown']

[quote name='BC5RA said:

Would have been best to have angled it to get rid of the post AFM 90 degree bend.

Fuel rail mod is to stop lean on piston #4 and will give you piece of mind when raising boost pressures, not a power adder by itself.

/quote]

its a niddle pick but isnt it #3? closest to the driver?

and yes its not a power adder - its a safety "I dont want to melt pistons"

Yup.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

6439418316a10408020893l.jpg

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6439418316a10408020965l.jpg

Things still left to do: there are still a couple of pipe clamps to put on, need to change the bottom of filter box to legacy one ( it has an impreza one in at the mo and inlet is teeny weeny), sort out the vacuum lines, make the Marley induction system (MIS) out of stainless, maybe paint the brackets for the radiator tank, maybe replace the bov, replace the air line to bov, needs a couple of cable ties and i think thats it pretty knocked on the head.

Bilsteins arrive soon so i'll be fitting them in soon to.

Biggest problem I have is I have never driven the car while it was running good so i still dont know if its any better. To me it still feels a little sluggish.

Posted

Will take to town tomorro and see if i can get a wheel alignment, replace shifter bushes get blasted alarm working...

Posted

wicked, could u take pics of the marley setup too if pos, im wanting to do that too, cheers

Posted
 G-unit said:

whats that behind the header tank? catch can?

Yeah, just a little one. PCV valve runs from the t at the top so no oil i dont want to goes in the intake.

I wont be doing MIS for a while yet but will post when its done.

Posted

You pm me and i'll pass your details onto a stainless welder who is willing to make up a few. Not sure on cost. The whole setup only cost me for the silicone, $100 ish.

Car Boosts to 16 psi at the drop of a hat with an old vf10. I know thats not good for turbo and engine and will be rectified before one or the other pops, but it does give a comparison for those who watch their boost gauges while driving. I cannot compare to a car that has been running correctly.

Posted

repco if you cant make one yourself, ask them to order in a racepro subaru fat tank (thats the metal bit half way along the intake) buy the two 90 degree silicon bends, from memory the big one is 3 inch the small one off the turbo is 2 1/4 (correct me if im wrong someone) dont forget a few hose clamps and you're in business.....

Posted

I'm pretty sure that repco is the only place you can get the fat-tank but you could maybe get the silicones from supercheap auto, I know their silicone is cheap as chips......

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