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Lots of Legacy BP5's on the road, many on here?


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 KiwiJoe said:
I do have some small modifications, but use the factory ECU. It's fully programmable.

I've got a 3 year mechanical warranty so I can't do any mods, will give them a call actually to see what if anything is allowed. Gives me piece of mind not sure if I'll mod when its up or sell it on and get another car with warranty again.

Funny my last car was 145kws (3litre manual maxima) and this one is 191kw 07 GTB, so decent jump and still needlessly thinking what can I do to it :)

Edited by killervq30de
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08 GT SpecB here. I never use "I" drive myself. I will use it if someone that isn't me is driving the car though, especially if they're not used to more powerful cars (ie my gf/family). For anyone c

If you want to enable the alarm horn on a JDM BL5: 1. Make sure all passenger doors and the boot are closed. 2. Hop into the driver's seat and close the door. 3. Put the key into the ignition and c

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I'm dealing with the guy over at cryotune now trying to sort out if he can do a e-tune for my 2.0L, keeping everything else stock. Not expecting a huge increase but anything is better than nothing.

Could be a mod for you, nothing noticable. without going in and checking the rom id would anyone ever really know its been done. wink wink..

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08 GT SpecB here. I never use "I" drive myself. I will use it if someone that isn't me is driving the car though, especially if they're not used to more powerful cars (ie my gf/family).

For anyone curious here are the requested torque maps for the three SI drive modes:

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 PtPixel said:
08 GT SpecB here. I never use "I" drive myself. I will use it if someone that isn't me is driving the car though, especially if they're not used to more powerful cars (ie my gf/family).

I saw a review on his site about a stock 07 about how much smoother and quicker throttle response was - mine doesn't seem slugish at all. What sort of gains should you expect from a Stage 1 everything stock?

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The stock map isn't sluggish itself but it does have a few flaws (especially in pre-facelift models and cylinder #4). Some parts of the ignition timing and boost maps have peaks and troughs that don't deliver smooth power (in the stock Target Boost map below you can see a trough at WOT between 4,000 & 5,200 rpm and similar in the ignition timing) and gives the boost control a run for it's money. On the stock map I also had some weird lag/jolt issues if I was coming off of power then immediately back onto power. New tune fixed that.

Stage 1 will definitely smooth out power delivery and increase boost pressure by a couple of psi (usually up to 16.5). Throttle response might not change too much aside from shifting some of the ignition timing and lower rpm boost targets a bit so you see the power coming on a bit earlier.

I'd expect maybe a 10-15% increase in power & torque? Stage 2 was about 30% increase in torque and 20% increase in power for me.

I jumped straight from stock to stage 2 (a new, larger dump pipe and a cat delete) so I can't say too much about stage 1. Stage 2 was a massive improvement though. For just the power the ignition timing was bumped up a degree or two at WOT and boost pressure went from the stock 13.5psi to 18.2psi. I also heat wrapped the dump pipe and used a turbo beanie instead of the stock heat shield.

The stock dump pipe is flawed in design too so upgrading that really picks up the throttle response and the cat delete helped too as these are the two largest sources of back pressure on the turbo.

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For comparison here's the heat map of my stage2 target boost. I've blurred it as it's Cryotune's work, wouldn't be fair to share his work publicly. You can see the difference in smoothness of the boost targets.

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 killervq30de said:
pfft I'll have the manual you can have the push button start :) And a nice blue too, you got lucky on that find. I dunno happy with auto still as I say above its still a sporty auto and the paddles make it fun to pretend its manual :)

I think s# is 'different' for autos because if you live in s# if you tap the gas too far it wants to shift down and take off, with manual and s# you'd be controlling what gear its in and so accelerate rather than launch

yep I'm in Auckland too saw there was meant to be a meet just the other day, will see how it goes the next time ones on

Yeah, I have no idea how the si would work with an auto (although I dont like the way most autos do things anyway). In manual yeah its purely throttle response/ position. Has a lot more punch in s#

Haha Nahh I'll keep my manual :P Im well stoked with it was a really good find.

Defs try come along for the next meet, next one is the Bastion pt meet on Sunday the 20th. If you can try come along to that.

Edited by Aurai
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I have a 2006 JDM BL5 SpecB since most the features should be the same, I posted here :)

Do I just ask Winger at the next service to enable the Horn sound for the immobiliser alarm?

Also is there a anti hi jack feature? i.e. all the doors lock when starting the car?

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If you want to enable the alarm horn on a JDM BL5:

1. Make sure all passenger doors and the boot are closed.

2. Hop into the driver's seat and close the door.

3. Put the key into the ignition and change it from 'Accessory' to 'On' three times within ten seconds (Acc>On>Acc>On>Acc>On). Leave it on On.

4. Immediately open the driver's door then close it.

5. The status of the security system is shown on the trip meter. Security alarm: ON or Security alarm: OFF (handily this is one of the few configuration items that's all in English). To turn it on (if it's off) push the driver's door lock switch forward three times. To turn it off (if it's on) push the driver's door lock switch back three times. The trip meter display will update.

6. Turn the key to off. Done.

The immobilizer key will always flash twice while the alarm system is also on. To test, lock the car with your remote keyfob and wait for 30 seconds (the alarm standby time), then unlock the driver's door with the key and open it. If you do this inside a garage, wear some earplugs as it's bloody loud (kill the horn by disarming with the keyfob).

Edited by KiwiJoe
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 KiwiJoe said:
If you want to enable the alarm horn on a JDM BL5:

1. Make sure all passenger doors and the boot are closed.

2. Hop into the driver's seat and close the door.

3. Put the key into the ignition and change it from 'Accessory' to 'On' three times within ten seconds (Acc>On>Acc>On>Acc>On). Leave it on Acc.

4. Immediately open the driver's door then close it.

5. The status of the security system is shown on the trip meter. Security alarm: ON or Security alarm: OFF (handily this is one of the few configuration items that's all in English). To turn it on (if it's off) push the driver's door lock switch forward three times. To turn it off (if it's on) push the driver's door lock switch back three times. The trip meter display will update.

6. Turn the key to off. Done.

The immobilizer key will always flash twice while the alarm system is also on. To test, lock the car with your remote keyfob and wait for 30 seconds (the alarm standby time), then unlock the driver's door with the key and open it. If you do this inside a garage, wear some earplugs as it's bloody loud (kill the horn by disarming with the keyfob).

Awesome cheers, will try it tomorrow!

Any other "secrets"?

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Lots of good information here thanks. Picked up a JDM 2006 GT Spec B about a month ago moved on from an MY99 WRX. Still learning small bits and pieces about the Leggy having never owned one. Will try out that alarm thing today. Have to say I'm loving the 6 speed manual over the old 5 speeder in the WRX.

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 KiwiJoe said:
If you want to enable the alarm horn on a JDM BL5:

1. Make sure all passenger doors and the boot are closed.

2. Hop into the driver's seat and close the door.

3. Put the key into the ignition and change it from 'Accessory' to 'On' three times within ten seconds (Acc>On>Acc>On>Acc>On). Leave it on Acc.

4. Immediately open the driver's door then close it.

5. The status of the security system is shown on the trip meter. Security alarm: ON or Security alarm: OFF (handily this is one of the few configuration items that's all in English). To turn it on (if it's off) push the driver's door lock switch forward three times. To turn it off (if it's on) push the driver's door lock switch back three times. The trip meter display will update.

6. Turn the key to off. Done.

The immobilizer key will always flash twice while the alarm system is also on. To test, lock the car with your remote keyfob and wait for 30 seconds (the alarm standby time), then unlock the driver's door with the key and open it. If you do this inside a garage, wear some earplugs as it's bloody loud (kill the horn by disarming with the keyfob).

Ok just done this, works fine, however mine didn't do anything if at step 3 you leave it on Acc. I had to leave it on "ON.

I don't however get the soft chirps when locking/unlocking with remote. Is there another method to enable this?

Talking about features, does anyone elses fuel monitor inaccurate? i.e. when I'm on low (indicator is just a bit over the last bar) it will display 40Km left, if I keep driving it will always go from 40km to --, I've never seen it display 10 - 30km..

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Oops, I didn't spot that typo! I've edited the steps to correct it. There are two ways to enable and disable the alarm chirp for USDM Legacys, but neither work for JDMs, and I haven't found one that works. Yet.

The distance remaining number is just an estimate based on average fuel consumption over the last 30km. If you start driving more aggressively when the fuel tank is nearly empty, you could run out much sooner, but the computer wouldn't know and would continue to suggest you had a few kilometres left; hence the maximum distance indication is 40km. Below that it won't give you an estimate and just tells you to fill up. The owner's manual says:

"If the driving range is shown as “---”, there is only a tiny amount of fuel left in the tank. You must refuel the vehicle immediately."

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 KiwiJoe said:

The distance remaining number is just an estimate based on average fuel consumption over the last 30km. If you start driving more aggressively when the fuel tank is nearly empty, you could run out much sooner, but the computer wouldn't know and would continue to suggest you had a few kilometres left; hence the maximum distance indication is 40km. Below that it won't give you an estimate and just tells you to fill up. The owner's manual says:

"If the driving range is shown as “---”, there is only a tiny amount of fuel left in the tank. You must refuel the vehicle immediately."

My fuel light came on when the gauge still had like a quarter notch to go and trip comp was saying 80kms, which is about right as it was $120odd to fill from there. So pretty early for light to come on.

How manys kms does everyone have on the clock? I'm on 56ks now, I couldn't see any sub 80km manuals when I brought mine

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Yea that km left value seems a bit gimmicky. Took the car down to wellington a few weeks ago and it was all over the place, and really slow updates so not really worth watching if you ask me.

Damn 56k is pretty much brand new. Suppose its because there's alot less desire for auto's

Jap import though aye? Long run time but low k's with the traffic over there.

Mines at 120k. Got a sneaking suspicion the cambelt hasn't been done so will have to work out how to check for that...

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 Andy_Mac said:
Yea that km left value seems a bit gimmicky. Took the car down to wellington a few weeks ago and it was all over the place, and really slow updates so not really worth watching if you ask me.

Damn 56k is pretty much brand new. Suppose its because there's alot less desire for auto's

Jap import though aye? Long run time but low k's with the traffic over there.

Mines at 120k. Got a sneaking suspicion the cambelt hasn't been done so will have to work out how to check for that...

Yep was imported @ 15k and then traded back in at Winger @ 55K(they brought a '14 Forester XT) . I wanted low kms because otherwise after a few short years she'd be up around the 200ks and all the maintance dramas.

Auto Auto Auto - I think I'm jealous in away of all these 6 speeds that have cropped up in this thread.. but then Denise couldn't drive my last car as it was manual, you need to budget for a new clutch every few years (depends how you drive) and these subaru sport auto boxes are inifitely better than your standard 4AT box as they hold the gear better without changing upper and the tiptronic is bit a bit of best of both worlds deal - meh manual is still more fun though

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I don't think too many manual GTs were sold in Japan, based on how many imports I see for sale. They're far from ideal in bad city traffic, especially with an extra cog, and having driven one it's not the greatest box to use. Most of the rest of the world isn't quite as fascinated with manual gearboxes as we are in NZ (it makes me laugh when I see car ads with 'ModelX (MANUAL!!)' as the title), just in what's practical: automatics for major cities with a lot of gridlocked traffic, like Japan and the US, and economical manual micro-boxes where fuel is really expensive, like most of Europe. On my infrequent highway trips, I do miss having that tall cruising gear though.

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