kamineko
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Posts posted by kamineko
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Likely yes. However doing that it'd be advisable to run 98 octane or better. Interesting question actually, NZDM tune + some boost vs. JDM tune with pulled timing due to poor fuel
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I used a kit from Autolign when I had factory struts, very similar looking to the generic image here http://www.autolign.co.nz/catalogue/alignment-parts/camber-adjusting-bolts with a cam mid shaft
Unlike the previous posted picture that appears to have a zinc finish the appearance is sort of of a sandblasted grey, I was told they are hardened, or that may have been written on the box
Bit of a pain to install but no issues and could achieve at least -1deg on factory GC rear
Might still have them around since I went to adjusties, haven't seen them for awhile though
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Fortyone sorted me a 4pc kit for a reasonable price a few months ago. Ask 41 for a price
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whats that Mike? personally i have no idea what differentiates 'forged' from 'semi-forged' or even if its a real thing. i just know cast ≠ forged
care to link the sales brochure?
the cross hatch pattern is produced from the sand casting process... it indicates a cast part. youtube has some great production videos
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apart from the valve clearance, they look very similar to my '95 v2 sti ra factory forged set
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Try
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?46299-ClubSub-Technical-FAQ-*Beta*
Scroll to the DIY section, then look for the knock sensor how to under Engine
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I would recommend jacking the car up and using axle stands on the rear of the car. If you raise the car from the front the gearbox oil can drain through the hole left by removing the reverse switch. If you clean instead of replacing it as suggested above, it would be a good idea to test it is working electrically before refitting.
Rossub's diagram doesn't look like a 5MT box, if your car is a GC8 the switches are on the left hand side of the transfer section of the gearbox
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nope not yet sorry
and i think i managed to delete that working thread by accident unless Dane can find it -
Non Specific Technical Discussion
General Info
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GeneralClosed vs Semi vs Open Deck Blocks
Non interference or interference
Caution when replacing brake booster vacuum hose
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Remote mounted power steering reservoirs?
What did you pay for your CERT for COILOVERS/ADJUSTIES
JDM Pinks vs RCE Yellow/Black (springs)
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Whiteline Swaybars.....Who's tried them?
steal lower arms, alloy, and late model alloy lower arms
steel arm to alloy arm swap -lower balljoint issue
Control arm bushes - Liquid coming out?
Gearbox / DrivetrainBrakes290mm Rear R180 Rotor with 190mm handbrake shoe part code?
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difference between v6 sti four pot and brembos
-> check thefor more brake conversion infoWheels / TyresWhat tyres for drag racing...slicks or semi slicks
Goodyear Eagle F1's - good vs bad
AutoSock: Chain replacement for snow / ice
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AVS Car Security - Alarm Questions/Help Section
laptop cord for subarus OBD I and OBD II soulutions
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-> check thefor more error code infoInterior / Gadgets / In Car Entertainment
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car air conditioning not blowing cold air
How to : Electric Seat Base Repair By Firenza 2020
Fire Extinguisher Install By Rosssub
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best polish to use so I don't get swirly patterns?
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OLDSCHOOL - LEONE / BRAT / SVX / JUSTY / ACE Technical Discussion
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Specs / Docs / Manuals / Info LinksThe *best* Subaru Ace Database.-DorisThe Hunt For The Subaru ACX-II -ArticleWhat is the chassis code for the brumbies?Engine
GeneralTurbo"Over boost"/ Cut out on 1986 Leone RXIIChassis / Driveline / Suspension
brumby g/box wrx/sti conversionLeone Height Adjustable Shocks rebuild discussionHelp with 1989 Brumby handbrake setupElectrical
Warning lights at certon Revs on LeoneInterior / Gadgets / In Car Entertainment
Heater Fan Resistor replacement - 87 leone RX coupeExterior
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FORESTER / TRIBECA / EXIGA / XV Technical Discussion
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IMPREZA Specific Discussion
General Info
Best bang for buck mods discussion
Impreza RA and STI RA model info By readosnr
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General-RosssubTurboConversionsChassis / Driveline / Suspension
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-kamineko-kaminekoInterior / Gadgets / In Car Entertainment
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http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/41047-subaru-keyless-entry-remote-resolved/&do=findComment&comment=537880LEGACY Specific Discussion
General Info
Turbo Legacy homepage Written By a past member (now gone did anyone get a cache or copy of it?)Some Model Code Info - boostinEngine
GeneralBE/BH Intake Snorkus/Resonator Delete - RosssubDIY Replacing coils - Durty-Sanchezcambelt 99 B4 RSK How to - DrDarkMatterTT TMIC pipe upgrade revision 3 - by RosssubBE/BH replacement inlet hose for TT? - by RosssubBH5 Fuel Pump Swap - RosssubTwin Turbo SystemBH Primary upgrade - sorta kinda how-to - by MarkySecondary Turbo Replacement - by RosssubThe "Hose 10" Mod - BE/BH - by MarkyTwin turbo diagrams - boostinInside the BBOD - by RosssubTurbo ConversionThe Single Turbo Conversion Thread 2.0 - ReubenH
Reubens Second Single Conversion thread - ReubenHGazzy2000 - yet another BG5a TT to ST conversion - gazzy2000Gazzy's BG5 project anudda TT to ST project - gazzy2000Rosssub's Single Turbo Conversion - RosssubChassis / Driveline / Suspension
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How to remove legacy BE/BH side mirror glass
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DO IT YOURSELF GUIDES
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Uncle Keltiks Track Preperation-keltic -
In lieu of a new Technical board structure being implemented soon, here are the workings for the new FAQ posts to replace all technical stickies, and hopefully most of your searches.
This is a temporary post because it isn't helping anyone locked away while I'm too busy to finish it.
Please post additional useful links as a new post for a Mod to add to the list.
Mods, I've tried to categorise things logically and keep double-ups to a minimum. PM me any questions.
Cheers,
kamineko
INFORMATIONAL
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G4 pdf manual - evowrxModel Codes & Specifications
ImprezaWRX Classic Model Codes - kaminekoJDM WRX ECUS - kaminekoJDM WRX Brake setups - kaminekoLegacyJDM Legacy applied model codes - readosnr
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ECU basics from ScoobyMods including reset & CEL Reading proceduresTurbo
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Power Light Fault Codes (Automatic Transmission) - arsenal69-
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Haha I've never tried to ruffle anyone's feathers for fun. Can't dispute anything said these days without being called a troll eh.
I'm talking about visible component damage. Its LIKELY you would see that. Its UNLIKELY a resistor has permanently drifted with no visible damage, and that putting it in the fridge would temporarily fix it for enough time to see it working.
Lets have a look at the board (pinched from another forum)
Solder joints do fail. As I mentioned, chilling might temporarily help in this case and this is usually achieved with a chill spray
-> The display is lit and otherwise working. So the heater circuit OK, and the filter caps are likely OK.
-> Some segments are unlit. It is plausible to expect an open circuit from a bad solder joint, as opposed to a damaged (low) current limiting resistor
I'm sorry if you replaced a bunch of parts without success. Maybe the vacuum tube can become damaged internally?
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are the arms / hubs / struts straight?
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I want to argue as well but I don't like to think of myself as a keyboard warrior. No I never said it would fix, it would allow the resistor or cap to work for a short amount of time before it was restored to normal ambient temperature where it would start to fail again. Not all 'buggered' resistors are 'burnt' out, they do slowly begin to fail, losing there intended rating.
I don't mind an argument.
In my experience resistors generally fail due to prolonged heat damage which is easily visible. But correct, I've seen resistors in HV situations degrade or go open circuit with no visible damage. I'm just not expecting that possibility in a clock display circuit.
Caps are a different story altogether
Any details on the parts that failed on your board? Pics?
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looks like there are lots of other messages that can pop up on your dash
http://www.subaru.jp/afterservice/tnst/pdf_legacy/2/all.pdf page 80 lists them starting with your battery message. you can use google translate to work out the messages
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i want to argue that chilling resistors and caps isn't going to magically fix a fault in this case. chilling a hairline crack in a solder joint might restore a connection due to thermal expansion but thats about it
if your resistors are 'buggered' you'd know about it, as they would be burnt out. failed caps would also be an unlikely cause of a display dropping some segments
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lol yes Jared that's a last resort trick used for surface mount and BGA reflow when you don't have the right gear and don't ever want to use your oven again to cook.. don't bother
if you don't care about it, have a go with the soldering iron but chances are low if you're new to electronic repair. if you do care, find someone competent to have a look
or spend the soldering iron money at pickapart? edit- oh BP5
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I'll just add one thing... to loosen the hub nut, I just remove the center cap from the wheel and loosen it before taking the wheel
off or raising the car... that way the wheel stays still without messing around with the brake pedal or getting someone to help.
valid point but this only works if the nut isn't seized like all of mine have been.. sometimes they can be %^%#ing stuck
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You will if the second hand 4pots are naffed, otherwise try and find out?
and i think i managed to delete that working thread by accident unless Dane can find it
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Jdm wrx ecu into UK/nz new spec wrx
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
Ah that's right, my bad. Although if I remember the wiring diagrams note it pretty clearly and there are just a few swapped pins. Can't say I've tried it though. Think there is/was a thread about this problem a few years ago - and I don't remember the outcome of that. Super helpful today haha