Massive oil leak out the banjo bolt... Can you strip the threads in these ?

[slystiguy]

So put my car back together was about to take for a driver and with in about 10seconds of running it had about 1L of oil on the ground. Figured out it was coming out the banjo bolt near the block. I tried tightening it but seems to just go round and round without getting tighter.. I never over tightened it or anything so seems really strange...

Anyone had this issue before?

[Roo]

Are both the copper washers there?

[lachlan]

is it actually in the hole ?

[slystiguy]

It\'s screwed in there to the point where I can\'t wiggle it out or anything. And yes both copper washers are there.

[Guest]

I had a ching one stretch on me. Overtightened it/well nipped it up but never had an issue with genuine bolts stretching.

[rex-leggy]

ive had this happen. a friend put my turbo feed back on ... stripped it and didnt tell me. it pissed LOADS out very fast.

lucky for me it stripped the bolt so new one and I was good to go. was not happy with said friend tho

[Rosssub]

Would the easiest fix, be to find an oversized Banjo/Banjo Bolt and Tap the hole in the block larger? Then change the Oil Line to suit. :-\

[Guest]

 Rosssub said:

Would the easiest fix, be to find an oversized Banjo/Banjo Bolt and Tap the hole in the block larger? Then change the Oil Line to suit. :-\

Filings in CHRA...? You would think the bolt would strip before the hole.

[rex-leggy]

 evowrx']

[quote name='Rosssub said:

Would the easiest fix, be to find an oversized Banjo/Banjo Bolt and Tap the hole in the block larger? Then change the Oil Line to suit. :-\

/quote]

Filings in CHRA...? You would think the bolt would strip before the hole.

it would

[Rosssub]

 evowrx']

[quote name='Rosssub said:

Would the easiest fix, be to find an oversized Banjo/Banjo Bolt and Tap the hole in the block larger? Then change the Oil Line to suit. :-\

/quote]

Filings in CHRA...?

Good point.

It\'s the Block/Head end though isn\'t it? Alloy?

[Rosssub]

 slystiguy said:

So put my car back together was about to take for a driver and with in about 10seconds of running it had about 1L of oil on the ground. Figured out it was coming out the banjo bolt near the block. I tried tightening it but seems to just go round and round without getting tighter.. I never over tightened it or anything so seems really strange...

Anyone had this issue before?

Maybe it was over tightened before you originally removed it (hard to crack) and it\'s killed the thread on the way out.

If it you pull the Bolt out and the Bolt\'s Thread is fine? But you cant Tap the Blocks Hole Thread? I\'ve Tapped holes with a Vacuum Cleaner running close.

Maybe using a High Temp Thread Tape on the Bolt? Or a skim of Epoxy on the Thread before installing, Gasket Adhesive Silicone on both Copper Washers. Then don\'t over tighten it or start it for 48hrs.

[slystiguy]

Ahhh s*** I hope it\'s just the bolt haha. I\'ll rip it out and have a look. From memory it was difficult to remove the first time (only removed to check for blockages). I think I remember flicking off a bit of metal as well when I removed it Hope it was just part of the thread. I need to pay more attention

Please let it be just the bolt!

Should be able to sneaky it off and not remove the turbo which is a bonus...

Would a bit of PTFE tap be suitable for use around oils? Or high temp silicone be a better idea? or something else?

[Rosssub]

 slystiguy said:

Ahhh s*** I hope it\'s just the bolt haha. I\'ll rip it out and have a look. From memory it was difficult to remove the first time (only removed to check for blockages). I think I remember flicking off a bit of metal as well when I removed it Hope it was just part of the thread. I need to pay more attention

Please let it be just the bolt!

Should be able to sneaky it off and not remove the turbo which is a bonus...

Would a bit of PTFE tap be suitable for use around oils? Or high temp silicone be a better idea? or something else?

Yeah, sh*t :-\ No good. That bit of metal you flicked off the Bolt, was the Thread out of the Head.

Now thinking Thread Tape might not help, because it\'s pressure on the Copper Washers (torqueing) that seals it. Tape might help the Thread bite slightly, but not enough to Torque the Bolt/Copper Washers. Silicone also couldn\'t really be trusted for the same reason. No thread to pull the Banjo tight. Locktite/Epoxy, all could fail and leak, leak, leak, BEB.

I\'ve just measured a \'Banjo Bolts Thread\' inner diameter at 10mm. So maybe you could fit an Aftermarket Oil Feed Line to the Turbo. Make the Block end an AN>1/2inch NPT fitting (National Pipe Tapered Thread).

This Tapered Thread, would require no drilling to Tap into the Block, also require less Tapping. A 1/2inch (12.5mm) Tapered Thread into a 10mm hole. If you Tap the hole slowly/carefully, backing out and cleaning off any Shards/Strands after each half revolution. With a Vacuum Cleaner running close for piece of mind.

Edit: Got to be better than the "worst case scenario" of removing Engine/Removing Head/Tapping bigger 12mm Banjo Hole/Cleaning/Reassembling/New Gaskets/Refitting etc. What a headache...

[lachlan]

block it and run one from the other head ? /the block gallery plugs

get a longer bolt and hope there is a few threads deeper down it can bite on

[Rosssub]

 lachlan said:

block it and run one from the other head ? /the block gallery plugs

get a longer bolt and hope there is a few threads deeper down it can bite on

Good call ;D Just measured the Thread length inside the Head, 16mm. The Banjo & Copper Washers only leave 8mm of Bolt Thread going in.

The OEM Banjo Bolt has a 25mm Shaft, so you can go up to a 30mm Banjo Bolt.

[DRFVDR]

I would suggest that the Banjo bolt was crossthreaded in the hole, easy to do if you are not cautious.

what I would do would be to fit a helicoil into the hole, only REAL solution that will keep it some what OEM( nothing worse than replacing parts with larger/different then having issues later on and not being able to get parts)

While tapping out the hole put grease on the tap It will capture 90% of the swarf, the rest will be able to be washed out with brake clean, Also a quick start and shut down so oil flows out of the hole before refitting the oil line will wash anything left over out

[boon]

Gonna throw it out there that re-using copper washers is a terrible idea and will lead to misery and leaks (unless you re-anneal them but who has time for that). So get new crush washers for a start.

But if you remove the bolt and it looks fine, i.e. you\'ve shagged the thread in the head, I\'d be looking for a new head. That\'s disaster-set-my-car-on-fire material. CNDYMN all over again. As above you could helicoil it I guess, as the thread itself doesn\'t play any part in the sealing, just the crush washers.

[mondo]

Best invest in a torque wrench when working with alloy.

[Koom]

 mondo said:

Best invest in a torque wrench when working with alloy.

Na just keep pulling on it til it starts to go soft, then back it off quarter of a turn....

[mondo]

If I had a dollar for every time someone stripped a thread in alloy...............

[Roo]

It\'s just too soft!

[DRFVDR]

work with alloy engine all the time,RARELY use a torque wrench, its all about feel

[rex-leggy]

only time I use one is for head studs really. agree with borg

[lachlan]

yeah theres a reason a 12mm spanner is only 110mm long .

and a wheel brace is 300m . not 1 m

[mondo]

Well then I bow down to the "super mechanics"