Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×
  • Current Donation Goals

    • Raised $0.00

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am looking to import a 2000 Legacy GT-B from Japan and am wondering if I will have to import a lot of parts from Japan when it needs fixing or not.

Is it possible that the EJ208 engine itself was used in North America (minus the twin turbos of course) meaning that the only parts I'd need to import would be regarding the turbos?

If anyone can shine a little light into this dilemma for me I would be greatly appreciative! Thanks!

  • Admin
Posted

Na they didn't use the 208. Think it'd be the 255 for their gt's and a more basic one for their non turbo 2.0L's. Partsouq is a bloody good site and will probably have any parts you're after at prices way below dealerships. In those, turbo's are the weakest point. Might i suggest looking at a 2001, facelift model instead. then you can atleast get it tuned by any standard tuner. That way you won't have issues with detonation, which these cars love to do when run on fuel less than japans 100octane. And you could then get an exhaust without overboosting and killing the tiny turbo's

Posted

Thank you for your response!

I decided the best way to go about figuring this stuff out was to call some of the local JDM specialist mechanics. After calling a number of shops it, they all said there are North American equivalents for the vast majority of parts needed.

As far as pre-detonation (knocking), Some shops recommended that I use 94 octane gas (here in Canada that's equivalent to 101.5 RON according to the Petro-Canada website) and others said any premium 91 octane gas (equivalent to 97.2 RON, information from same source) will be good enough as the ECU is designed to be able to automatically adjust to the gas you put in.

The 94 Octane gas is bloody expensive and I would cry if that's what I have to fill up with... Is the "knocking" actually loud enough for one to recognize if it's going on before any damage is done to the engine?

I'm thinking of trying out the 91 Octane to see if it can handle it. I know other people here with JDM 1998-2000 Legacy GTB's and they don't seem to have any issues. Also the shops were saying they don't often run into pre-detonation issues as long as people use at least 91 Octane.

Thanks again!

  • Admin
Posted (edited)

Our highest is 98 so its not far off that. Becomes more of an issue when non premium 88ish fuel is used from what i've read in the past the difference is 4-6 so saying 97.1 for your 91 may be a bit ambitious. Of course some people drive for years on crap fuel and never notice, if you plan on driving it hard then why risk a rebiuld for the couple of bucks a tank more.

Outside air temps makes all the difference too. How far north in canada are you?

Just remember that the engine having to adjust for lower rated fuels means it'll be adjusting timing and fueling so you'll be getting less performance from the engine if it is within its adjustment range.

Edited by Andy_Mac
Posted

That information was straight off the Petro Canada website so I trust it. Haha

Here is a comparison of two fuels with different octane with and without ethanol.

[TABLE=align: left]

[TR]

[TH=colspan: 2]91 Grade - no ethanol [/TH]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]RON[/TD]

[TD]97.2[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]MON[/TD]

[TD]85.6[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

[TABLE]

[TR]

[TH=colspan: 2]Ultra 94 - with ethanol[/TH]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]RON[/TD]

[TD]101.5[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]MON[/TD]

[TD]88[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

That's the chart they give. http://retail.petro-canada.ca/en/independent/2069.aspx

Or were you saying that running 97.2 RON in an engine that was designed to be ran on the Japanese 98 or 100 octane gas? I've been trying to find out what gas the engine is supposed to be ran on exactly... like in an owners manual. Even though they have Japanese 100... that doesn't mean it was engineered specifically for it. (unless you know otherwise, haha) In extension; they have Canadian Octane 94 here, that doesn't mean all the performance cars getting pumped out of the US and elsewhere is engineered to run specifically on it... if only I could get that JDM manual.

I'm in and around the mid Alberta level. About as North as Edmonton to be exact. Apparently up here the big oil companies put additives into the gas during the winter time.

I plan to be using this car as my daily and will occasionally go hard off the line, but the other 98% of the time it will be driven like any other normal middle aged man. (not driven very hard)

Once again, thank you VERY much for taking time out of your schedule for answering my questions!

Posted

I have a 99 B4 RSK in Canada. I'm assuming you're in Canada as well.

For parts, the turbo stuff specifically is difficult to acquire. JDM parts importers and ebay can usually solve that issue though, you'll pay a bit extra but it's not impossible. For engine parts, there are so many gc8s and gc8 half cuts over here parts are easy to come by. Body parts are not difficult to find either because be9/bh9 cars are pretty common here. Plus Subarus are like Lego. Just be sure to get USDM parts for a 2000+ because the body style changed in the US two years later.

As for fuel...

Car runs better at 94(I use Husky exclusively). Have had to run 91 a few times when I'm in a jam and I've noticed what I believe is the knock sensor telling the EBC to cut boost as I would built 15 lbs at around 5k and cut back down to 13 after compared to 15 lbs all of the way through with the 94.

Another guy just south of me only runs 91 on his RSK and has had a code for his knock sensor the entire time. He refuses to try 94 and see if it makes a difference but it explains his issue.

Theres a small group of us with JDM WRX/STi/GTB/RSK cars up here in Western Canada and the general consensus is 94/93 octane is necessary if you want the full performance of your car. The majority of us have noticed better gas mileage as well. A few guys have made an effort to tune their cars to run better on 91 where 94 is not available.

If you're gonna spend $6-9k on a car you can spend another 15 cents a liter on gas. And if you're not ok with that I'd recommend you get a USDM vehicle. It sucks but it's one of the prices we pay for JDM vehicles.

Posted

The knock sensor code will be because the sensor is bung, not because it detected knock. Not very clever running low octane fuel with a malfunctioning knock sensor.

Posted

Thanks RobMinhas! Yeah I'm west of Edmonton, and I have three gas stations within 1 km of my house and none offer 94 octane. I might have to bite the bullet and get the 94 octane I guess. Out of curiosity, How mush better mileage have you experienced? (a ballpark answer would be great!).

In terms of engine parts... I read the USDM 2002 WRX has the majority of the parts needed and for the turbos, I heard Mitsubishi has a few of the parts for them.... But I know if I really have a turbo crap out on me ill have to import some parts. my importer said that i'll be able to find most of the turbo parts here, but im doubtful.

Also, I know there's a warm up and cooldown period for these EJ208 engines... (if you have time to answer a few questions)

1)Can you drive the engine cold in the winter (meaning only letting it run for about 30sec-1min) as long as you don't spool the turbos?

2) Can you install a remote starter on the EJ208 engine?

3)What RPM's do the turbos spool up at?

4)What is an acceptable cooldown period as to not cause damage to the turbos?

I've heard our frigid winters and turbos are terrible, but the people that i've met who has GTB;s just love 'em and don't seem to complain about repairs or warmups or cooldowns. I seem then ripping around in the icy snowy snow while i'm driving around real shook in my current (damn stupid) GM car.

Thanks again for your response!

Posted

Can't really help you with your query, just wanted to say hi, I lived in Edmonton for a while and remember a WRX coming onto Whyte ave in the snow sideways and continuing for a while sideways that image has stuck in my head. I remember the the temperature in winter and I would think that you would defiantly want to warm the engine up for more then you have said.

Posted

I've noticed a minimum of 30kms more on a tank, on a heavy highway drive I noticed a gain of about 75 kms. I do stay in boost quite a bit(****, gas is cheap!).

To answer questions 1 and 4 I will start by answering 2, I have a remote starter with a turbo timer feature setup. I drive my car hard, I will admit and I always make sure to let it warm up(sometimes idle to warm up for 5-10 mins in the winter) and I will leave it running for another 2-5 mins depending on the degree of abuse.

As for when the turbos spool, with the exception of 1/3 or less throttle I'm pretty much always in boost. The first turbo spools fully by 2500? I've never really checked but it's quick. Max power is up at 5k rpm in my experience.

Posted

Hey I will be installing my remote start pretty soon. Do you know if these cars have chipped keys? I have heard from different sources yes and no. If not it wounds name my install a lot easier.

Also what did you use for a tach signal so the so the system knows when to kill the starter?

  • Admin
Posted

Mine didn't, could use any random key with the same Design.

And is this car a manual or auto? Does the starter have a signal wire that only lets it start in neutral?

See some classic remote start fails on the net where people start them in gear.

Posted

Thank you RobMinhas.

I've since bought my 1999 JDM Subaru legacy GTB Ej208. :D

I have driven the car a little cold (let it warm up for about 1.5 min and then drove it light for 2min) just to see what happens, (air temp was around 10 degrees C) I didn't push it that hard at first, but the turbos didn't boost at all. I looked on my turbo timer and they went to 0.3 bar and that's it. So I revved a bit harder and the same thing happened. Then I waited a bit, then they went to 0.4 bar and it kept going like this until the engine was at full temperature. So my question is, is it possible to limit the turbos until they are at working temperature? because it seems like that's been done.

To answer Rome1017, My key i'm fairly certain is chipped. It has the remote door locks built into the key as well. If memory serves, I read somewhere that they are chipped as well, however im not sure. I guess I won't know for sure unless I get a key cut and try it out. lol

Posted

Sorry for the lack of clarity.

The car progressively got up to its normal 0.9 bar as the engine warmed. (well, I think that's normal, (the 0.9 bar) I have only had the car for a week so I don't know what the turbos are supposed to be pushing out.)

Posted (edited)

Actually keys are not chipped, I had read they were as well. had a basic metal copy made yesterday with no issues.

this makes adding a remote start a lot simpler.

But also partsouq.com is a great site. Shipping is only about 2 days and you can get almost anything you are looking for. Including the smallest bolts. All for much cheaper than at a dealer Would charge. I'm in Canada as well

Edited by Rome1017
Posted

For me my primary is about 13psi and secondary about 16-17. That's with the hose 10 mod. Mine doesn't limit at all if it's not at operating temp but I very often stay away from boost when it's still cold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Recent Status Updates

    • Joker  »  Rosssub

      RIP Ross
      · 0 replies
    • MrSg9Sti04

      Afternoon team,
      im new to the group first time posting. Im hoping some body can help me get my launch control all dialled in on my link g4x. Ive had the computer and car all tuned from chris at prestige awesome knowlegable guy super happy with the results but now im wanting to get my launch/anti lag all dialled in. Ive been reading multiple different forums etc all with different conflicking information which has made me nervious with what do i listen to this or that if you get what i mean. Now ive started to make myself familiar with my PClink software etc the past few weeks and im eager to learn how to do minor setups or tweaks etc so im not relieing on my tuner so much and obviously saving myself abit hurt in the back pocket. 
      Now back to the question at hand.... Im wondering if theres and one who could please share there knowledge and wisdom with setting all my values, timing, fuel etc when i have launch control armed and engaged, or even a launch tune file they can possibly send me to load onto my tune. Ive figured out the setup of my digital inputs turning launch control on etc and its obvisously on its pre set factory settings. It engages but doesnt sound the greatest or as angry as it should i feel. Hence reaching out to you good buggers. 
       
      Cheers in advance for any info and help yous maybe able to give me.
       
      Cheers Shaun
      · 1 reply
    • Joker  »  gotasuby

      updated your DP's too : hope that's ok!
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  SAS

      Updated your DP's to reflect your business page  
      · 0 replies
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    41k
    Total Topics
    573.9k
    Total Posts


×
×
  • Create New...