Icy

Overheating/Changing head gasket - some questions

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Posted (edited)

Hi all, first time pulling an engine but seems to have gone smoothly so far. Car is a 2002 BH5D legacy with a blown head gasket, it was too cheap I couldn't let it pass and thought this would be a good way to get some experience in working on these cars.

 

Gasket leak was cylinder->coolant, bubbles/exhaust smell through coolant. Didn't notice white smoke through exhaust though. Looking at the gasket it seemed to be a very minor leak but enough to put air into the coolant system to cause overheating.

 

Just want to know a few things before i continue further...

 

While this deep into the engine what sort of things should I be inspecting or replacing? going to do timing belt and water pump, probably tensioners as well.

Will be getting heads resurfaced since they're around .06mm off level at center. Any recommended places in CHCH for this?

 

Whats the best place to source parts now? looks like partsouq is out of stock for a lot of things for this model.

 

The coolant system is caked with orange residue from the head gasket sealant that was used to try and fix the leak. Do I need to clean this off or will a coolant flush take care of it? i did notice one of the coolant lines to turbo was pretty much blocked from the caked orange sealant as well.

 

Assuming that the head gasket leak was caused by overheating initially, where would I be looking for causes of overheating? Fella said id overheated half way from nelson to chch. before I pulled it apart i did notice one of the radiator fans wouldn't run - while hot and/or with AC on, but that shouldn't have caused it to overheat at highway speeds would it?

 

Primary turbo (vf26) has slightly chipped/bent fins as well, pretty even on each of the fins(on intake side). Is it worth replacing or repairing? 2nd hand looks to be around $200 not sure what a new turbine would cost. also what could cause the damage to the fins?

 

Thats all I can think of for now but I'm sure there will be more to come :D

Edited by Icy
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Heads have been resurfaced apparently one of them was warped pretty badly, should i be concerned about this or should it be good now?

 

After double checking the bottom end there is slight warpage only on the plane at the fronside of the motor by about .06mm fsm says tolerance is .04mm would i be pushing it by assembling as is? Looks like this is 2nd time head gasket had been done so im assuming the last one lasted at least 3 years while the previous owner had it

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Hey mate, judging from the complete lack of responses, i'd say you were on the wrong forum... maybe try and an engine building forum... or maybe RCIS... or sign up to HPA and ask on their forum perhaps?

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yeah sorry I would'nt have any clue what is 'acceptable' either but if you find out let us know!

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my guess would be that as 0.06mm is 50% more than 0.04mm (your stated tolerance), that it's not usable... but i have no actual experience on the subject. I have bolted heads on and checked the warping amount... but not tried to bolt up to a slightly warped block before, so don't know what would happen.

Edited by Loren
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ah one of them "answered your own question" questions eh :P

 

(proof I didn't read correctly in the first place)

 

and ah yeah, if it's eating gaskets : there could be your problem eh

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On 29/08/2020 at 11:09 AM, Icy said:

While this deep into the engine what sort of things should I be inspecting or replacing? going to do timing belt and water pump, probably tensioners as well.

 

I'd add cam cover seals, cam seals, intake gaskets, new thermostat, spark plugs & head bolts to that list.

But if you're doing all that stuff, I'd do a good job and get the deck/block done because if it's out of spec who knows if it'll seal. Unsure if short block needs to be pulled down for that or not - talk to your machining shop.

 

 

If you're not doing block i'd maybe check the belt and water pump & if OK just leave everything except seals.

We did a cheap head gasket fix where we got heads done & just new seals - head gasket, cam cover and cam seals. Everything else looked OK.

Lucked out and it doesn't overheat now. Who know's how long it'll last but friend wanted cheap.

 

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18 hours ago, Joker said:

yeah sorry I would'nt have any clue what is 'acceptable' either but if you find out let us know!

 

true... block mating surface out of spec... could be the initial cause... and if so it will just happen again.

Edited by Loren
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Do a single turbo conversion 😉

 

Depending on the milage, you probably want to strip the short block down and do piston rings, a bearing set and get the block decked. Its easy to get a little out of hand with rebuild costs on these.. defintely look into replacment longblocks the EJ206/EJ208 is a direct drop in and the EJ205/EJ207/EJ20Y/X will all work with faily simple mods and a quick ECU reflash. 

 

Consider the tools also, if you do go for a full rebuild you will need a good torque wrench and some other specific tools that can add up $$. ignore this if you're not a pleb like me and already have a workshop full of fancy tools 

 

Also, do a single turbo conversion.

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Thanks for all the replies guys most helpful.

 

On further inspection bottom end seems to be flat. Turns out one of the points i was checking from was slightly raised so gave it a little sanding (shouldnt effect gasket seal area so i think im fine to sand it)

 

A_J_T i was seriously considering the single turbo route but seems like a lot of effort and cost so for now ill keep it twins.... however im fairly sure the rev ds are supposed to be running vf 33/32 combo but checking both mine i got 26/27... now i know the inlet size for the 33 and 26 are different so went to check the inlet pipe and what do you know

 

Its clamped so tight its severed the pipe on both sides, and it was taped over one side in the past by the looks of things.

 

Anyone know if the only difference between the rev a-c and rev d intake y pipe is the inlet to primary? I might just have to get one of those.

 

Oooooor am i better off going back to a 33/32 combo?

 

Also theres an cdb ej20g shorty for sale currently, can they be paired with any heads or is it not that easy?

 

Slowly accumulating tools as they come up on TM or go on sale but im sure theres plenty i still must have!

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13 hours ago, Icy said:

Thanks for all the replies guys most helpful.

 

On further inspection bottom end seems to be flat. Turns out one of the points i was checking from was slightly raised so gave it a little sanding (shouldnt effect gasket seal area so i think im fine to sand it)

 

A_J_T i was seriously considering the single turbo route but seems like a lot of effort and cost so for now ill keep it twins.... however im fairly sure the rev ds are supposed to be running vf 33/32 combo but checking both mine i got 26/27... now i know the inlet size for the 33 and 26 are different so went to check the inlet pipe and what do you know

 

Its clamped so tight its severed the pipe on both sides, and it was taped over one side in the past by the looks of things.

 

Anyone know if the only difference between the rev a-c and rev d intake y pipe is the inlet to primary? I might just have to get one of those.

 

Oooooor am i better off going back to a 33/32 combo?

 

Also theres an cdb ej20g shorty for sale currently, can they be paired with any heads or is it not that easy?

 

Slowly accumulating tools as they come up on TM or go on sale but im sure theres plenty i still must have!

 

If you can, I'd try go back to the correct turbos, as it's most likely still on the original tune, so best to run the original turbos etc. 

And yup, you can swap to the 20G CDB no problems at all.

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Just be wary of what compression ratio you end up at. Factory ECU is only "good" for the factory compression ratio.

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On 9/09/2020 at 9:30 AM, pl0x said:

Just be wary of what compression ratio you end up at. Factory ECU is only "good" for the factory compression ratio.

Yes going to have to do a bit more research when i go down that path....

 

Also realised that the pistons on the LHS are both marked 0.5, whereas the RHS have no marks. Assuming this means only one side has been bored out? Im sure ive read somewhere that you cant do just 1 side. Anyone confirm?

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Ok update time...

 

on the leaking cylinder (#2 i think/FL) there is a rough spot on the cylinder wall, the patch is on the bottom towards the head side of the bore. looks like something sitting there has corroded it slightly? anyone familiar with this?

 

And I may have figured why it overheated in the first place - due to the tear in the intake pipe downstream from AFM where it was attached to the undersized turbo inlet causing it to run lean. would explain why it initially overheated on a longer drive.

 

So knowing this...

 

do I need cylinder bore honed to take out slight roughness?

 

I will assume piston rings are well cooked... from what i can see it's pretty straight forward redoing the rings, Do i need any specific tools to do this? a list or link would be most helpful ^_^

 

Now turbo questions :D

The plan currently is to go cheap and stick with the 26/27 combo it's on. Will be slapping a 27 CHRA into the 26 housing i currently have with the buggered turbine, as from what I've read it spools it quicker being a BB and not thrust/sleeve, get that balanced and would like to think it'll be all goods.

 

so obviously i will need the proper sized intake y pipe from a rev a-c. Can anyone confirm the pipe is identical besides the primary turbo inlet connection?

 

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