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Is AVCS worth the effort?


ReubenH

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 ReubenH said:

The main reason i've gone with 2.2 is the rev limit. And i don't like the bore of the 2.5 either. I am really of the opinion the EJ25 was getting too much displacement out of a block that wasn't designed for it. I've seen 25's with cracked cyl walls, there's the history oh headgasket issues, and the rev limit drop i could not live with, i need my STi 8000 redline.

Yes you can change all of these things, but that costs money and i'd just rather the 2.2. I mean heck, i chose a 20G block for my PBMS build because it was closed deck, i'm hoping to score a closed deck 2.2 for my next project.

There is one other option.... destroked 2.5... a semi closed 2.5 will be tough enough, and won't destroking it let it rev nice and high?

If you don't like the bore on the 2.5 destroking it ain't going to make it stronger.

Plus to get the deck height right your going to have to use non std pistons or rods

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Personally now that you can get shortblock 2.5's at good prices its a very good option - makes excellent daily driver even with a good sized turbo in it.

RAC has been running a std one for years with no reliabilty problems.

I wouldn't call 2.2 exotic just expensive...

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 Qwerty said:

Personally now that you can get shortblock 2.5's at good prices its a very good option - makes excellent daily driver even with a good sized turbo in it.

RAC has been running a std one for years with no reliabilty problems.

I wouldn't call 2.2 exotic just expensive...

2.2 aren't expensive, it's just the Fact that Reuben is set on a USDM 2.2 CD block.

An open deck NA block can handle plenty.

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Wow, funny how the thread descends into chaos when ODB pops his head in. May i remind everyone, i am actually really happy with my current build, i love that engine. This idea i have for the next build is at the very least a year or two away, if not more. Nothing wrong with trying to find out about the different options at this stage, long before i commit myself to anything!

Anyway, back to 2.2's, despite it being off topic. BC5RA is right, 2.2's are hardly more expensive. They have, AFIAK, the same crank and rods as a 2L, just run large pistons, which you can get from the states for the same price as 2L pistons... Open deck IS an option, getting an open deck 2.2 will be bloody easy and cheap. Making a tough 2.2 is the expensive part, grabbing a CD 2.2 from the states will need a bit of money, and i'm not sure i need to do that. But i don't know if open deck is very future proof.

The other bonus is not loosing any redline, unlike moving to a 2.5. Some don't see that as an issue, but i personally find having that extra bit quite usefull. It's a joke that my old SOHC N/A had a similar redline to a 2.5L STi... A bit fail, and a bit american if you ask me... I much prefer the 2's and 2.2's

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I have heard of people importing USDM blocks for a $1000 usd - which seems pretty expensive for a block...

Sleeving is similar money

Open deck if your happy with upto 250kw then its cheap but alot of people end up with project creep and end up with a cdb

The internals are of course similer in price to a 2.0 or 2.5.

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 ODB said:

Sorry Reuben, not me who turned your thread into chaos.

I was just trying to converse politely and on topic with you. Your mrs made it spiral out of control.

someone has to be the bad cop

Quoted for truth... (as much as it pains me to side with the 'enemy')

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so on my build (235kw) on completely stock heads.. and 2L and an open deck is well within power tolerance and hoons big time.. It even still uses the outers of my old VF23..

Come for a skid at MM rheubs.. I think you will be quite suprised how easy it is to make that sorta power and keep it reliable..

That and how fast 230+ is for a daily.. iv come to realise i cant harness mine anywhere except the light that go onto the motorway in wellies i.e 0--->100, other than that im likely to skittle a kid/pet/object/parked car/not parked car/pot hole/or adult who unexpectidly crosses the road or steps out in the way.. any more than part boost is waaaay dangerous round town, and even on open road it wants to do 150km's plus real fast..

to turtles point my tune has been limited to 7 grand.. and im slamming into that way to quick.. it needs to be pushed out 500rpm or so.. not for "power" but to let it run over for gear shift when hooning

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 TURTLE said:

I hope your doing that 150 in a school zone.

As mentioned before there is more grip on the Pedo Crossings, therefore, it is safer.

truth..

i think we agree right.. my point being any more than about 200 atw is pretty nuts for either: in town driving or "a daily driver"

IMO

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 funkytown said:

so on my build (235kw) on completely stock heads.. and 2L and an open deck is well within power tolerance and hoons big time.. It even still uses the outers of my old VF23..

Come for a skid at MM rheubs.. I think you will be quite suprised how easy it is to make that sorta power and keep it reliable..

That and how fast 230+ is for a daily.. iv come to realise i cant harness mine anywhere except the light that go onto the motorway in wellies i.e 0--->100, other than that im likely to skittle a kid/pet/object/parked car/not parked car/pot hole/or adult who unexpectidly crosses the road or steps out in the way.. any more than part boost is waaaay dangerous round town, and even on open road it wants to do 150km's plus real fast..

^^^^

This. As a daily driver is there really any point in having a gazillion KW??

I can see the point if its a daily driver/sometime track beast but as you have stated you are gonna have an Impreza as a track hack it seems pointless to me.

Why not just chuck a factory setup in there and make decent, useable power all day every day and make the impreza into a fricken BEAST!

RAWR

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 Shale said:

Like your HX20-STi?

There is no need to hassle my whip. Uncalled for!

Can you stop constantly trying to pick an argument with me????

Im trying to keep this on topic but you insist on making irrelevent comments.

Please take your trolling elsewhere, thank you.

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yup.. pretty much what im saying ODB.

It is the transition that mine might make at some point so watch this space ;)

what i would tell someone based on what i know now..

Step 1.

Get in a factory sti.. go for a hoon. Take notes on how it feels.

Step 2.

Get in a 200kw atw car and go for a hoon. Take notes on how it feels based on above.

Step 3.

Get in a 230+kw atw car and go for a hoon. Take notes on how it feels based on above 2.

Once you know understand and appreciate what the power feels like you can get a much clearer picture as to what your after..

If the goal is "I don't care, i just want X kw atw.." then ok fair enough. I suspect its more about how it drives though right Rheuban?

Im also of the opinion there is a lot of $$$ that can be made to make a car go/feel/drive better (faster round corners) spending money on suspension /tyres etc etc..

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the weight of your car compare to Reubens is different aswell,

i had a 200kw-ish atw daily and would have liked more, in a bd5. wasnt that quick.

nt_a_foz's sti before the with the old engine was about the same if not quicker

and had a race with a v5 sti wagon with only a upage in boost and it was very even

i blamed it on the weight lol

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 pl0x said:

the weight of your car compare to Reubens is different aswell,

i had a 200kw-ish atw daily and would have liked more, in a bd5. wasnt that quick.

nt_a_foz's sti before the with the old engine was about the same if not quicker

and had a race with a v5 sti wagon with only a upage in boost and it was very even

i blamed it on the weight lol

yup totally agree.. but that 200kw still makes a paper weight faster right (no insult intended), regardless of ow much extra kw it'l make.

thus the faster it feels over stock.. the harder it is to stop said paper weight at the other end as well.. the more you put it.. the harder and harder it gets to stop or control..

Looking at the other side of your argument

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 funkytown said:

so its AVCS really worth the effort?

Me thinks not.. I (personally) have totally useable power with heaps of snot across the range with standard v3 heads.

Would AVCS make it better.. yup im certain it would. Is it worth it.. Nah.

very well summed up!!! :)

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 pappu']

[quote name='funkytown said:

so its AVCS really worth the effort?

Me thinks not.. I (personally) have totally useable power with heaps of snot across the range with standard v3 heads.

Would AVCS make it better.. yup im certain it would. Is it worth it.. Nah.

/quote]

very well summed up!!! :)

Balance of effort and money, vs result. I'm picking expensive ponies.

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 Shale']

[quote name='funkytown said:

so its AVCS really worth the effort?

Me thinks not.. I (personally) have totally useable power with heaps of snot across the range with standard v3 heads.

Would AVCS make it better.. yup im certain it would. Is it worth it.. Nah.

/quote]

very well summed up!!! :)

Balance of effort and money, vs result. I'm picking expensive ponies.

Perhaps just let Reuben decide????

He knows it makes sense what everyone is saying eh big R???

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il just jump in right at the end im not 100 percent sure on this but have been reading alot of american forumbs on these heads as i had the same ideas and one had some specs sheets on the later model avcs il try find it again and avcs was mainly for lower fuel consumption and emissions control made slighly higher power but the variable lobe wasnt a hell of alot bigger so didnt give to much extra valve lift over normal lobe some one correct me if im wrong

iv just got ported version 6 sti heads they seemed to do the job ok

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 funkytown said:

so on my build (235kw) on completely stock heads.. and 2L and an open deck is well within power tolerance and hoons big time.. It even still uses the outers of my old VF23..

Come for a skid at MM rheubs.. I think you will be quite suprised how easy it is to make that sorta power and keep it reliable..

That and how fast 230+ is for a daily.. iv come to realise i cant harness mine anywhere except the light that go onto the motorway in wellies i.e 0--->100, other than that im likely to skittle a kid/pet/object/parked car/not parked car/pot hole/or adult who unexpectidly crosses the road or steps out in the way.. any more than part boost is waaaay dangerous round town, and even on open road it wants to do 150km's plus real fast..

to turtles point my tune has been limited to 7 grand.. and im slamming into that way to quick.. it needs to be pushed out 500rpm or so.. not for "power" but to let it run over for gear shift when hooning

I don't think anybody can say there engine is reliable until a lot of mileage has been covered without an issue.

(no offense to Rick)

Everybody has there idea on what engine build they would like, some would say a 2.0 open deck engine build is boring ::)

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 BC5RA said:

some would say a 2.0 open deck engine build is boring ::)

And some people are stupid. Why overcomplicate things when a 2.0 open deck will do the job just fine

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