Reubens Second Single Conversion thread. 56k fail.

[ReubenH]

You'll have to work faster than that chris

The wiring to run wasted spark after converting to single turbo is dead easy. The loom has a wire for each coil, but the ECU only has 2 outputs. Given that with the wasted spark setups, cyl's 1 and 2 are joined, and 3 and 4 are joined, you can just join the wires at the ECU end of the loom, then plug those into whatever wires the outputs are on.

Basically, find the wire for cyl 2, and splice it into cyl1. Find the wires for cyls 3 and 4, and join them to output 2/cyl 2.

[Guest]

thanks That is easy, but i just wanted to get it from the experts

If i wanted to run coil on plug set up like in the twin turbo would the wiring be the same as the legacy but on the wrx ecu pins 1, 8, 15, 20, or could you wire it the wasted spark way by joining the wires on the wrx ecu and it would just mean it fires on a exhaust stroke on the other piston when the piston needed is is firing properly.

If that makes sense :-\

[ReubenH]

The single turbo ECU only has 2 ignition outputs, so it's only possible to run wasted spark (extra spark on the exhaust stroke) The way above, makes the coil on plug setup run wasted spark. If you wanted to convert to a coil pack setup on the manifold like an impreza, that requires additional wiring.

[chrisjunkie]

Damn work haha I would have done it fairly similar too... oh well saves me a job

[ReubenH]

Yeah, been a booring day for me, the garage was too hot and unbearable for me to bother. I only just did this about an hour ago...

Day 3, split fuel rail!

I'll let the pictures do the talking.

It's my best job yet on a split rail, Note the routing under the BOV return line, this is required so that the fuel lines don't get squashed by the manifold, it also helps keep things tidy.

[chrisjunkie]

Im not seeing any fuel reg vac line??? yeah we put mine under the manifold like that too but that is definitely tidier and nicer looking with the STi red ;D

[ReubenH]

Yeah, meh. Haven't sorted out all the vac line from the TT just yet.

[Koom]

 akaynlsn']

you could measure by taking out spark plug and measure the stroke of the piston.

if you know what size pistons you have a very smart person could give you the answer.

but that person is not me.

i have a BD5 auto block and heads on my BD5B MT5 will this matter on a TT/ST conversion.

or should i save for a better bottom end?

You could get a close approximate to the displacement but unless you know exactly whats in there you won't get the compression ratio.

[quote name='Koom said:

Compression test doesn't give you the compression ratio of the engine.

The compression ration is found by comparing the entire volume inside the combustion chamber at TDC and BDC. So you need to know the stroke and bore, plus the headgasket thickness, the cc of the dome in the head and the cc of the dome in the piston (also have to take into account where the piston sits at TDC i.e. is it perfectly flush with the top of the block, does it sit lower or higher? and add or subtract the necessary volume).

/quote]

"I'm an Engen... an Enginiee... Good at maths"

I would've thought the thickness of the gasket could probably be absorbed in the error, you're probably not gonna give a compression ratio in significant figures above 2...

Do the maths on a 92.5mm bore and ~1.2mm thick gasket to see how much of a difference the headgasket makes Mr Injunear.....

(Use 1998cc displacement and compression ratio of ~8:1 and calculate the combustion chamber volume.)

[Guest]

Hmmm. So mine being the D revision engine I'm doomed to needing an aftermarket computer = extra $$$ and more $$$ for a tune.

Just getting it tuned by Torque Performance is seeming more reasonable now lol!

Or maybe I should just bite the bullet and buy a V8 STI ;D

[ReubenH]

Well, the BH5D's have bloody impressed me with their twin turbo, i'd honestly leave it if i were you. It's the BG's that are the dogs when it comes to VOD.

If you can find someone who will tune twin turbo, do that. And maybe pick up a ZS sequential controller if VOD ever bothers you. That will be all you need.

[Guest]

The VOD is bothering me lol! And it doesn't feel that quick on the primary... there isn't enough of a kick lol!

An Ecutek tune by Torque Performance runs to about $2000 last time I investigated. They liberate a lot of torque at 2500rpm and maybe 10kw across the range. I could justify $1000 to myself pretty easily but $2000 is rather difficult lol!

But I'll think about it. Maybe if I can pick up a sequential controller cheap I'll give that a go. Maybe lift the crossover around town to 5000rpm instead of the factory 4500rpm.

[ReubenH]

Indeed. Give the ZS controller a shot, i think there is one being sold by a member at the moment.

But single converting, well, you'd have to buy an ECU anyway, to get past the whole ECU problem.

[Guest]

True, but Link = $$$$ + a tune at another $$$. It makes it a somewhat more expensive proposition.

[ReubenH]

Yeah, pretty much. Don't bother with the conversion. a ZS controller would do you good.

Anyway, did a little today, mostly wasting time cause i'm waiting on those gaskets. I think i might just take the manifold into town this weekend and leave it with matt to go get it painted somewhere. He can't be f'd apparently, but given the rest of the engine bay is going to be looking so good, i think i might make him.

So anyway, sorted out all the vac hose, there's a fair bit of it, and there's still some left in the front guard, along with another boost control solenoid. Bloody TT's..

It's called the black box of doom, because in it, lives the FLYING SPAGHETTI MONSTER!

And from the spaghetti monster, we get moar vac hose, and a boost control solenoid, and a 3 bar map sensor. Mmm.

Then onto the BBoD replacement, remember that solenoid bracket on the shopping list, time to use it.

Or if you want, you can do this

[aim]

That's the difference in the solenoids for the single T and TT? Wow... lol. Didn't realise there was such a large difference

[ReubenH]

Yup. Single turbo... Boost control solenoid, pressure select solenoid, and map sensor. Simple

And looking at the TT pinout, the TT has that, plus a exhaust control solenoid, Ex valve pressure select solenoid, Ex valve vacuum solenoid, intercooler valve solenoid, secondary BOV solenoid, secondary bov pressure select solenoid. Then there's the differential pressure sensor on the firewall, and the vacuum tank in the front guard

[DRFVDR]

can u keep the vacuum tank in the guard and t it of the brake booster = more volume of vacuum under hard braking

[ReubenH]

I dunno. Don't see a need myself, i've never had a problem with my booster. I suppose one could T it off.

I took mine out, dead/useless weight. I've taken everything not doing a job out of my car.

[Guest]

I was just reading over the post's and saw that using the B4 engine and bolting on the single turbo gear that the compression ratio was to high for the sti ecu and would advance the timing.

Would using a complete Version 5/6 non sti engine be the go as all the settings would be in check. Plus would it work with the sti ecu ?.

Just crossed my mind.

[mattapo]

 Justin_55 said:

I was just reading over the post's and saw that using the B4 engine and bolting on the single turbo gear that the compression ratio was to high for the sti ecu and would advance the timing.

Would using a complete Version 5/6 non sti engine be the go as all the settings would be in check. Plus would it work with the sti ecu ?.

Just crossed my mind.

My brother's currently in this position but his engine needs rebuilding anyway so were using new pistons to get the comp ratio where we need it

[gazzy2000]

 mattapo']

[quote name='Justin_55 said:

I was just reading over the post's and saw that using the B4 engine and bolting on the single turbo gear that the compression ratio was to high for the sti ecu and would advance the timing.

Would using a complete Version 5/6 non sti engine be the go as all the settings would be in check. Plus would it work with the sti ecu ?.

Just crossed my mind.

/quote]

My brother's currently in this position but his engine needs rebuilding anyway so were using new pistons to get the comp ratio where we need it

yea, when i finally diagnosed the issues i was having with my TT to ST conv as being STI ECU CR related, I had suggestions thrown at me to use a standard WRX ECU because they are made to run a 9:1 CR engine. But the way i looked at it was the std WRX ECU isnt tuned to run yellow 440cc injectors for a start, so i stopped there because you cant tune a std ECU let alone an STI one and i sure as hang wasnt ganna put grey injectors in!!

[chrisjunkie]

 Justin_55 said:

I was just reading over the post's and saw that using the B4 engine and bolting on the single turbo gear that the compression ratio was to high for the sti ecu and would advance the timing.

Would using a complete Version 5/6 non sti engine be the go as all the settings would be in check. Plus would it work with the sti ecu ?.

Just crossed my mind.

You could always just get thicker head gaskets...

[gazzy2000]

 chrisjunkie']

[quote name='Justin_55 said:

I was just reading over the post's and saw that using the B4 engine and bolting on the single turbo gear that the compression ratio was to high for the sti ecu and would advance the timing.

Would using a complete Version 5/6 non sti engine be the go as all the settings would be in check. Plus would it work with the sti ecu ?.

Just crossed my mind.

/quote]

You could always just get thicker head gaskets...

WHo and how would he do the maths to figure the CR out to make sure its right?

[chrisjunkie]

Take engine out and then measure up etc. There is probably a chart floating around somewhere listing volume of different blocks.

Then just get the headgaskets to match. Yeah its not going to be cheap but cheaper than getting a whole new engine

[gazzy2000]

 chrisjunkie said:

Take engine out and then measure up etc. There is probably a chart floating around somewhere listing volume of different blocks.

Then just get the headgaskets to match. Yeah its not going to be cheap but cheaper than getting a whole new engine

ya, but would getting a tunable ECU be a cheaper option again?