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Seems since 2024 Michelin has bee sharing its RIFD tech with other vendors. links to FAQ:  https://rfid.michelin.com/what-is-rfid/ https://www.continental-tires.com/continental-for-business/services-and-solutions/rfid/   The data is pretty limited, mostly around a few numbers the vendor can look up and get the size and specs of the tire along with their internal data like production date etc. manufacturer company assigned ID model is zero to 17 trillion serial is zero to 274 billion   Looks like there maybe multiple tags for some companies as they had their own larger visible ones previously. The new ones are 38mm long and under 2mm in diameter and work from 1-5m from the tire. datasheet: https://rfid.michelin.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/dataSheet-TireTag-muRata.pdf   Members of the RFID group other than Michelin Continental Bridgestone Goodyear Bridgestone JATMA which is most japanese brands: https://www.jatma.or.jp/english/about/member.html

Graphics can be small images or drawn from rectangles, circles, triangles or lines. Shapes can be filled or unfilled. I usually have an outlines version and then smaller filled version. That way when off you make the fill black or dull and its doesn't need to redraw the outline.    Anyone could design a layout and any stock can bus data could be used to update the graphics.  If you have aftermarket ecu then you can customise what can bus data they send or use a built in dash preset.   links to some examples to show what data aftermarket ecus send out. Link ecu: https://www.akao.co.uk/manuals/Link G4+ Manual/device_specific_can_informatio.htm haltech: https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/haltech-can-ecu-broadcast-protocol emotion: https://help.emtronaustralia.com.au/emtune/PredefinedCANTransmitPacket2.html   This is the case and screen except in black. Only a small 4mm hole gets drilled above the USB port for wiring   There are a few version of this and you don't always know what you'll get. All have wifi with the same screen and case. The ultra is the basic single core 80MHz without bluetooth and without can bus controller builtin. cheapest USD$6. official price USD$25 The pro is dual core 240Mhz with bluetooth with builtin can bus controller. cheapest USD$12   Adding generic boards for power and can bus cost another USD$5-7. The pro has touch sensor built in but the ultra has 1 spare pin after can bus so can have a board added that enables touch. That way tapping on the top can cycle the display through different screens.

Hi all, I desperately need help to fix my 1999 JDM Legacy GT-B. I have a spark problem, I only have spark on cylinder 1 and 4. Here's what I did so far: -Tested all coils and spark plugs by swapping them around, they tested good -Checked for 12v in coil connector, all 4 connector have good 12v -Checked ground resistance in all coil connectors, all within spec. Even tested it under load with a small 12v dc motor -Checked continuity between trigger wire on coil and ECU connector, all good -Replaced ECU, no change -Replaced cam and crank sensor -Checked timing (all good on the cam sprocket, I would need to remove the crank pulley to confirm crank timing mark) -Inspected triggers tooth on camshaft sprocket, all good I have no clue what to look for now. If you have any idea let me know! Thanks !

Won’t it be the same as the heads, warped is warped so 0.002” or 0.05mm? What’s the removed material limit in the service manual old one was something like 0.012" or 0.30 mm. So. You need to check how much the heads have been cut.   Shouldn’t you torque the case halves to spec before any measurement or machining work?   A mirror or glass sheet is about the flattest thing I’ve found for flat polishing. Don’t forget to rotate the part often so any uneven force you apply isn’t the same angle the whole time. Just because it is flat doesn’t mean it’s square.   Lol at AI summary, searched  “skim subaru block flatness” and got a summary of your post as the answer.  

Hey all, 2004 BP 3.0 Outback.   I'm rebuilding this engine from the short block up, Had a teeny tiny external coolant drip from the head gasket above the oil cooler.....any sane person wouldn't worry about it but i saw it as an excuse to tear an EZ down and build my library of Subaru knowledge. I've had the heads hardness and crack tested and tidied up at the machine shop. I was wonder what the tolerances for flatness of the block are? obviously i'm limited to DIY methods for prepping the block. I've done the entire disassembly strictly to the FSM so far, however i can't seem to find the allowable tolerances for the block, it states the heads but not the block specs. Heads have been milled so they should be perfect, however the block.....i've used an old bathroom tile left over from a renovation with 600grit sandpaper and a lot of wd40 to clean up the block surfaces. With my feeler gauge I'm finding a gap about 0.003 or 0.004in across the block, light can also be seen from a torch. Just wondering if i should be worried about this? does anyone know what the specs should be? Will the "perfect head" surface clamp down and pull the block into a good seal? I'm using 100% OEM parts including the head gaskets. I'm also re using my head bolts but that might be a argument for another day.   Any opinions appreciated. Cheers