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If all you want is the sticker then go hard but if you ever come up against someone with 300wkw you’ll get utterly stomped

Lol those stickers mean nothing. I've seen "400kW+" stickered cars do sub 300kw on hub dynos. At the end of the day, it's your car, you don't have to justify your decisions but the guys/gals on here have great advice on how to make your car perform. Don't just be one of these guys: chasing-numbers.jpg

Just take the car to the tuner and ask them to fix it (EDIT: Being facetious...)

cheers 4 responses - ECU is about to go on a holiday to San Francisco. Edward (west_minist & XRT ) recommended Tatrix as well. This morning phoned Tatrix US, spoke to Mike who is a legend, loves NZ and offered to fix and return post the day it arrives. two months in owning my first Subaru I broke it good! .

The tuner is a goomba if he thinks that a (presumably rolling road?) dyno figure, with an arbitrary made-up correction factor for flywheel power, is more accurate than a hub dyno. If you're going to quote a made-up number, may as well just make up a ridiculous one. Shoot for the moon, put a 500kw club sticker on it.

I don't know how you can conclude you are choked by fuel based solely on that. You tuner should be able to tell you your injector duty cycle, which will tell you with 100% clarity, no wet finger in the air bullshit, if you are running out of fuelling. If your tuner cannot tell you this, they are a potato and should not be tuning cars that use injectors. I know bugger all about the intricacies of the latest motors, but presumably they are running similar injectors to the older ones, approx 565cc/min. This will fuel you to around 240 real, actual, proper, not made up, wheel kw. Depending on the bullshit factor the tuner is using on his dyno, this is going to be roughly 300 made up flywheel kw, although all of these figures are using 98 octane, and I don't know if you are. EDIT: My rough calculations say you're probably making about 210-215wkw, meaning you likely have another 20-odd kw in your fuel system, and you are probably being limited by the turbo, or something in your exhaust (do the new ones have a catted up-pipe?) or maybe, just maybe, the topmount intercooler. If you're on 95 octane, that's a pretty good number, and the problem is the turbo, end of discussion.

Exhaust waiting for me at the depot. Much excitement! Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk

Sounds like you haven't had an 8200rpm limit before =P

Ooooohh it was salvagable if you didn't turn the car off, just leave it all turned on and attempt to re-write ecu image. As it stands, you may be able to salvage with sh boot write, but have a chat to @west_minist

So plugs alone did not fix the problem, It is a bit better, but still sounds like a tractor and has no power. Apparently its making boost, or so the gauge says, just not doing anything with it. Can't find any leaks, or loose wires etc. Anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping its not jumped the belt on a cam pulley or something stupid like that. In other news, swapped the tyres round so the B4 now has the RE003's on it, and got it some new wheel nuts cos the chrome was flaking off the old ones. Now I just need to clean the wheels and takes some unfilthy pics...

You’re not talking 300kw in the sense anyone else does though. You’re getting an estimated engine kw not wheel kw. Ask your tuner what you’re putting down at the wheels.

Put some LEDs into it: Oh yeah... and bought the damn thing

Changed the cambelt, water pump and cam seals on the gc8. Mounted a fire extinguisher on the seat rails in the wagon and changed the oil. Then I washed, clayed and waxed the wagon. Now the paint is all clean you can see all the rock chips from winters down here. It is definitely a ten metre paint job, don't look too close.

Does anyone here have tire lettering on their wheels? Always like the look of tire lettering however im not sure weather it would look good on my car or just a dumb idea... What do you guys think of it? I saw a lowered GRB with tire lettering and ohh man it looks so good on those... If not, might take a quick look at windscreen stickers, the right ones look mint imo. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STI-Decal-Subaru-Sticker-Windshield-banner-Vinyl-Graphic-WRX-Impreza-Logo-emblem-/232329435041?var=&hash=item3617e9d7a1:g:QQcAAOSwY3BZEhhU&vxp=mtr I guess they are both reversible if they look sh*t. Edit: found this Would look better if blue and bit lower but you get the idea. looks okay.

I looked into this and apparently it isn't worth it, the longevity isn't great and the pen leaves your tyres a mess if you don't continue to apply.

This. If your tuner doesn't know what the duty cycle is you're up the creek without a paddle man.

I have no idea? Im guessing they will. The clip I saw was some dodgy stuff, I think it was the whole smooth side wall with lettering cause racecar look. Was some overseas guys just grinding away at the side wall, I might see if I can find it.

Yeah I have them on my car, I really like them. Yes they are removable, however it depends on how you attach them and the type of lettering you get. I sanded the sidewall where I was attaching them to, so that I had a smoothish surface for them to attach to, I also used a heat gun to apply some heat prior to gluing them on, as I don't really fancy one of my letters flying off when driving

It's your car Subra.. If you like writing on the tyres go for it..

I’ve literally changed everything that turns - new discs, tyres, wheel bearings and cv axles I let one place have it for a morning and they thought it was power steering related - that could explain the wandering but certainly not the noise...

You didn't say on the street; you said in a street car.

Yeah you guys all have much more experience than me, I’ve only been in the Subi game for the last like 2.5 years. After I’ve upgraded my fuel system I’ll look at doing a turbo and maybe even a FMIC. Pretty much topping out stock motor by then so might get a motor built or just chip away at building a short block at home to swap my heads onto. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's just it. The 220kw figure hes quoting is flywheel he cannot possibly know that. Subaru quote 225kw at fly on an engine dyno. Drivetrain loss is not linear in relation to power. If you were losing 21.3kw to the drivetrain before post tune you will still have 21.3kw drivetrain loss. But in percentages it might be 18.7% pre and 11.5% post tune.

Gutted. Never spent a heap of time reading into it but pretty sure you need a new ECU or a very select few tuners have the ability to unbrick it with some specialist hardware. Think Aussie Matt may be able to. Tactrix themselves can do it but that would require sending it to San fran which is a bit of a major.

Its coil on plug, which makes things a bit easier, with no leads to attempt to diagnose. And makes it harder trying to diagnose 4 coils! I couldn't see anything obvious symptoms of arcing, but silly me didn't test the coils when I had them out, derp.

Old: Te Kopahou Reserve.

Ive been making the bracket for awhile. I know they arent a fan of the alloy strip type mounting brackets & alway made them from m/s. Only thing they did change regs on was exstungusher clamping bracket has 2 straps not 1.

Replace a F***ed gasket with a new one and gained ~3psi

2 complete dinosaur turbos. That said, lots of people bolt on equally dinosaur MHI TD05s or TD06s and get confused when they only make 15 more horsepower and take 3 weeks to spool. Speaking Subarus specifically... Garrett GT3071R (or GTX if you have the $$) are very popular. BorgWarner EFR becoming more common, but even more $$. Holsets, usually via Steve Murch, are gaining popularity as a very tough, reasonably affordable turbo that delivers fairly good results... just they haven't been in use on Subarus for long and my personal belief is that they have slightly different requirements to other common turbos.

Issues, the early legacys are renowned for destroying turbos. Even if they are well serviced. They are just as highly strung, given they are still a 280 (ish) hp turbocharged Japanese performance tourer, and yes definately 98 only. People seem to think that Japanese cars will run nicely over here, fact of the matter is anything that is considered premium, luxury or any sort of special model (so like, 95% of all Japanese imports) are tuned to run on 100 octaine fuel, so running em here on 98 is less than ideal. However. They are retunable, and if you replace the turbo for one from a facelift legacy (vf44/vf45) remove all the oil feed banjo filters and a Gentle retune, you can have one very rapid, reliable and 95 friendly car. Out of the box, they can be touchy. But its easily remedied

.... CHCH Contact Details - http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,41.0.html BP Fuel Stations with 98 / Ultimate - http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,35228.0.html How to get involved in Motorsport in Canterbury - http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,30011.0.html CHCH Spotted Thread - http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,35545.0.html Your Local Subby Mechanic - http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,33692.0.html