Dumb Question Thread!

[reaperblitz]

V5/v6 heads are phase 2 - should be identical. Same with manifolds.

V7 manifold has extra port and positioning is slightly different with ports for sensors from memory. It's been a good year since Iv taken a v7 apart tho

[reaperblitz]

O- is there a way you can tell an afm or ecu is crap by looking at it?

I know the smart thing would be to plug it in and see if it throws codes- runs sh!t but this is dumb question thread.

[Timmah]

 reaperblitz said:

O- is there a way you can tell an afm or ecu is crap by looking at it?

I know the smart thing would be to plug it in and see if it throws codes- runs sh!t but this is dumb question thread.

If you're comfortable to pop open the ECU to expose the mainboard, you may find some burnt out components. Just remember to wear a static wrist strap or keep yourself grounded.

AFM, what year? I know the pre-insert type, you could pop off a cover and then you could see the solder joints and if they're cracked.

[Guest]

 reaperblitz said:

V5/v6 heads are phase 2 - should be identical. Same with manifolds.

V7 manifold has extra port and positioning is slightly different with ports for sensors from memory. It's been a good year since Iv taken a v7 apart tho

Was referring to sti/non

[reaperblitz]

Mmm besides being polished they said there was no significant difference. Between intake manifolds besides the red paint. Tests done show no improvement over airflow or performance gains. So it's up to you?

[reaperblitz]

 Timmah']

[quote name='reaperblitz said:

O- is there a way you can tell an afm or ecu is crap by looking at it?

I know the smart thing would be to plug it in and see if it throws codes- runs sh!t but this is dumb question thread.

/quote]

If you're comfortable to pop open the ECU to expose the mainboard, you may find some burnt out components. Just remember to wear a static wrist strap or keep yourself grounded.

AFM, what year? I know the pre-insert type, you could pop off a cover and then you could see the solder joints and if they're cracked.

Iv done my purple afm before- soldered that up. It's the same plug/pin type orange. Guess il just break the silicon and check/ give it a tickle up.

As for ecu- I will open to check. Hopefully there isn't any burn/smoke/scorch marks from fried components

[Wiretap]

 reaperblitz']

[quote name='reaperblitz said:

O- is there a way you can tell an afm or ecu is crap by looking at it?

I know the smart thing would be to plug it in and see if it throws codes- runs sh!t but this is dumb question thread.

/quote]

If you're comfortable to pop open the ECU to expose the mainboard, you may find some burnt out components. Just remember to wear a static wrist strap or keep yourself grounded.

AFM, what year? I know the pre-insert type, you could pop off a cover and then you could see the solder joints and if they're cracked.

Iv done my purple afm before- soldered that up. It's the same plug/pin type orange. Guess il just break the silicon and check/ give it a tickle up.

As for ecu- I will open to check. Hopefully there isn't any burn/smoke/scorch marks from fried components

What are the symptoms? Physical component failure in the ECU is rare and usually would be an injector or ignition driver that goes pop.

[QRAF]

 reaperblitz said:

Mmm besides being polished they said there was no significant difference. Between intake manifolds besides the red paint. Tests done show no improvement over airflow or performance gains. So it's up to you?

thats why i just painted my wrx manifold and didn't buy a sti one.

[reaperblitz]

Symptoms are idle goes up and down and starts hunting (with orange afm plugged in)

Runs like super crap when cold

Almost floods and can't start

It's also similar to previous condition I had before with iat sensor

[Guest]

 reaperblitz said:

Mmm besides being polished they said there was no significant difference. Between intake manifolds besides the red paint. Tests done show no improvement over airflow or performance gains. So it's up to you?

the question was about phase 2 v5/6 sti vs non.

sti/non head differences in port...

differences in port shape between sti/non manifolds...

Pretty much theres no difference from what youve said.

Red paint adds kw too proven many times...along with the rest of the shit the boys talk on here.

[funkytown]

i don't think anyones disagreeing with you man ???

I think you;d be correct in estimating the head casting process and manifold casting process is the same between the sti / non. Would make sense from a economics POV.

i think you'll find just the cam profiles and possibly the valves are where the differences are.

FWIW: red paint = definitely +10kw..

[reaperblitz]

It's in the heads- cams profile, valves (and also would I be correct in using the term 'buckets' differences -loosely?)

Yeah. Intake manifold ports are the same. The red paint gives you the racey look and the crinkle coat ads power

[Guest]

sti valves are sodium filled too or some s*** had the conversation with marc. Seems all the above are right but was only concerned with the head and mani ports lol. just easier to answer something in one post lol.

I bought v6 sti heads was more for the general public/handy to know touch.

yellow paint now how does that compare to red... ;D

[funkytown]

good for 300 im told ;D

[reaperblitz]

 hate-evoz said:

AFM problem..

Fail. Will pull it apart and check.

Does anyone have a cfm / max flow sheet for a tdo4 ?

[QRAF]

i got sodium valves when the car got rebuilt

I guessed they where just stronger but its actually to help in the cooling of them better.

 

The entrapped sodium will liquefy at high temperatures and move inside the stem as the valve is operated. Thus the sodium will effectively transfer heat from the valve head to the valve stem, contributing to cooling down the valve head faster.

[Guest]

i have a td04 sheet will dig up.

[reaperblitz]

 evowrx said:

sodium valves lighter i think.

i have a td04 sheet will dig up.

Thank you for this

[Guest]

i have a few more from google what are you comparing too. My research is mostly in soft copy on file...

[reaperblitz]

Was gonna compile a turbo cfm / pressure ratio to rpm specific to an ej20 though was hoping to already find some already made.

To put it simply, the correct turbo that incorporated early spool/ boost threshold to max cfm peaking at an intended rpm. I.e 7200 rpm etc

It's somewhat contradicting but to copy but not to copy a supercharger increasing pressure as rpm rises.

[funkytown]

 reaperblitz said:

Was gonna compile a turbo cfm / pressure ratio to rpm specific to an ej20 though was hoping to already find some already made.

To put it simply, the correct turbo that incorporated early spool/ boost threshold to max cfm peaking at an intended rpm. I.e 7200 rpm etc

are you over thinking this? Look at current turbos offered and their reputation.

It's obvious the vf34, or if you decided to mod your car a bit the vf36/37 blow anything else away in both domains.

*if asking about td04 you're talking the factory turbo domain.

[funkytown]

Heres a 22.

look inside CS and the answers are there

www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=27016.15

[reaperblitz]

*edited above.

Yes slightly over thinking. But also as an OCD kinda thing where which gives me the better feel (if you know what I mean).

But the vf34 was the intended turbo to get next

And yesssss that's the type of stuff I been looking for. Might pay for me to use different search words as lol- tomei wasn't my first thought as a thread title.

[funkytown]

i goggled 'vf36 compressor map'.. and it pointed me back to CS

[Guest]

i never found that but i never looked for vf36. A lot of the time searches come back to CS Sometimes its easier to use google to search CS its more direct.