Dumb Question Thread!

[ADIKT]

Get rid of them all or buy a prius haha

[Rosssub]

Yeah chop them out. Cats not required here, yet.

If your BE is a rev B then be prepared to get some aftermarket boost control if you De-cat. Better exhaust flow makes the turbo spool faster, so your OEM boost control (waste gate duty cycle) will be off. I got massive boost spikes after de-catting my BH5B primary DP and had to fit a boost tap.

[syphe]

 Andy_Mac said:

Do you need any cats in a turbo back exhaust for legality?

Been looking through the lvvta site and haven't really found any hard answers. Is keeping just the pre turbo cat enough?

Here is the rule:

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/exhaust/exhaust-emissions

 

2. A vehicle (other than group L vehicle or a class MA or MC motorsport vehicle with a valid motorsport authority card) that was first registered in New Zealand on or after 1 May 2010 and manufactured from 1 January 1990 has a catalytic converter removed where there is evidence that one was originally fitted, and there is no written evidence issued by a TSDA that the vehicle passed a prescribed metered emissions test in this condition (Note 5) (Note 6) (Figure 11-2-1).

So if your car was first registered in NZ before May 2010 then you can safely remove it without problems.

With that being said, I put mine through the last 3 WOF's with no cat converters and had no problem (first reg'd July 2010), it'll simply depend on where you take in in to get your WOF.

[Timmah]

 Andy_Mac said:

Do you need any cats in a turbo back exhaust for legality?

Been looking through the lvvta site and haven't really found any hard answers. Is keeping just the pre turbo cat enough?

Cat PRE TURBO? **** that remove it before it collapses and eats your turbo.

Or at least that's what peeps in the US do.

[Guest]

 Timmah said:

Cat PRE TURBO? **** that remove it before it collapses and eats your turbo.

Or at least that's what peeps in the US do.

Power gains too.

[Andy_Mac]

This isn't for the BE5. Got a new 06 legacy spec B that i want to do it to, sadly its an import that was imported after 2010 so would i be right in thinking it'll have to have a cat installed? Or risk them putting 2 and 2 together and realising it should have one

[syphe]

You could always just do it and if you don't get pulled up on it then you'll be fine.

I'd recommend putting a hi flow cat back in once you do though, as the sound it makes is pretty crap with no cats, and a resonator will sort it out somewhat but with a hi flow cat it sounds way better.

[Andy_Mac]

More dumb questions. Chucking a boost gauge in the new car. Is it ok to tee it off the bpv with the 4th gens or will it give funny readings like the 3rd gens? Think it was down to a strange line to do with the TT setup that put it wrong but just want to be sure.

Also where would be the best place to hook into for the power, ground, illumination and ignition for the controller. Read a walkthrough for an wrx that spliced into the four wires going to the clock in the centre. Sound like a good idea??

[gotasuby]

There is a plug under dash for accessories which has all the wires you need for gauges etc

[BP5Nut]

 Andy_Mac said:

More dumb questions. Chucking a boost gauge in the new car. Is it ok to tee it off the bpv with the 4th gens or will it give funny readings like the 3rd gens? Think it was down to a strange line to do with the TT setup that put it wrong but just want to be sure.

I picked up my 4th gen with the STI genome boost gauge already installed (I believe it was a factory option), it's tee'd off the BPV and works just fine.

[Guest]

Cold rainy night, reluctant (didn't go over 0.5psi (primary)) to boost, give it another go and boom, sudden judder/loss of power & CEL flicks itself on.

Ran diagnostics, threw code 66.

I know this is the TT system, but what is it/could it be exactly?

EDIT: Did my Primary actually just give up? If so that's called timing, as another one is on it's way. Or maybe MAF?

Edited July 1, 2014 by Guest

[Rosssub]

Put it into D-mode (green and black plugs) and make sure everything is working as it should:

IACV under drivers side of TMIC, opening and closing.

ECV opening and closing.

BBOD solenoids switching.

Primary Boost solenoid switching.

[Guest]

Guide to replacing a primary turbo on a BG5? Anyone?

[Rosssub]

...............

Edited July 3, 2014 by Rosssub

[Rosssub]

 bnneie said:

Guide to replacing a primary turbo on a BG5? Anyone?

My secondary turbo replacement thread should be close enough, same process really. In my garage thread:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41061-Secondary-Turbo-Removal-Replacement

[Rosssub]

 bnneie said:

Guide to replacing a primary turbo on a BG5? Anyone?

My secondary replacement thread should be close enough, just ignore the BBOD hoses etc. In my garage thread:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41061-Secondary-Turbo-Removal-Replacement

[Marky]

Just unbolt things until it pops out

I replaced mine without actually taking the exhaust housing off, just undo the cartridge and swap that out, don't need to remove the manifold or anything.

[sweedazz101]

Dumb question! How come a BG5 Brighton Wag has a 6k limiter but a BD5 TS Sedan has a 7k limiter? Same engine no?

[94 Leone]

 sweedazz101 said:

Dumb question! How come a BG5 Brighton Wag has a 6k limiter but a BD5 TS Sedan has a 7k limiter? Same engine no?

Isn't brighton SOHC? We used to have a brighton 220( 2.2) i think that had a 6k limiter. TS is dohc i think, gives a wider band

[paulngui]

Is this a big cause for concern? They're two different boots on the same car, one each side. Are the boots just leaking from one of the clamps or is it a case of needing to replace them? Pretty sure the same can be seen on the other two boots that are closest to the wheels.

Edited July 6, 2014 by paulngui

[Timmah]

Check for splits in the boot itself. I don't think a little bit if seepage from the clamp is going to hurt.

[Andy_Mac]

Should a newer model legacy take longer for the engine to warm up? Or could the thermostat be stuck open? Takes considerably longer than my old B4 to get up to temp.

[94 Leone]

You sure you have a thermostat? Does your heater work? Thermostas dont generaly get stuck open.

If heater doesnt work (doesnt blow warm air) its likely you dont have a thermostat in.

I was earlier going to ask how to get injectors out of rails without busting them, but the screwdriver slipped and knocked a clip off one. Anyway i know its naughty, but I used some silicone hose i had left over and a small vice,silicone on injector nozzle, other end of vice on fuel rail, wind slowly and it popped out with no further injector damage. Screw you youtube tutorials.

[Andy_Mac]

Can't guess why it wouldn't unless it failed and the last person just pulled it out. Heater works perfectly fine so i'll have a feel of the radiator pipe as it warms up and see what its doing. but just seems weird it takes almost twice as long as the old one

[94 Leone]

Maybe they've installed a thermostat that opens at a lower temperature, or has a higher flow bypass. The more water able to run through the system the longer it will take to warm up.