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flipping the manifold


off2harrys
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with a v2 you should be able to just lift the manifold, turn it around and bolt it back on, you have to remove your air-con pump and place the alternator in its place and if you do it this way the idle control valve hits the power steeering pump reservoir, there is a way around it though, which is to find one of the power steer units with the small round reservoirs, im sure they are on the the 250t legacys and maybe other models as well. all seems to work have set it up on my rs legacy project like this and its all good

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hmm interesting so does the p/s reservoir just bolt straight on?do you have to remove a radiator fan also for the piping?do you know why you cant just turn the v3 manifold around?i kind of want to change to one for the minimal torque gain and cause i dont think i can get a hold of any a/m rails for a v2 for that bling bling factor

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id say the reservoir just bolts onto your old pump just looking at it, i replaced the whole pump cos the rs one was stuffed anyhow, and yeap removing the large radiator fan helps the piping fit a lot better, as for the v3 manifold i wouldnt have a clue if you can flip it that way or not, havnt had much to do with them, maybe just get your v2 manifold and fuel rails painted/polished for a bit of bling factor?

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yea you could straight flip the version 3 manifold, i got one thats had a flange welded on the other side of the plenum which im using on my version 2, means i dont have to replumb too much stuff.

if you want to flip the whole thing, something i found out by searching was you can use a later model impreza power steering reservior which is remotely mounted so theres no clearance issues, some one correct me if im wrong?

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i did a straight flip with my v3 manifold and put x2 sets of the gizzmo phenolic gaskets which lifts the manifold 6mm so as to clear the p/s reservior and prevents heat soak through to the manifold. just cut a few bits off the alloy alt/air con bracket and flip the alternator straight over to where the a/c pump was, then all you have to do is make a small adjuster bracket for it. a good time to do a parrallel fuel set-up while you are at it. by doing that and flipping the fmic so that the inlets are up the top i shortened a huge amount of pipework out of the car. you will need a new 5pk1105 belt if running standard pulleys or i my case a 5pk1045 if running gfb pulleys.

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 off2harrys said:

sweet thats handy i bought some gfb pulleys the otherday,stupid question where do you buy belts from?cheers for the info everyone,now i just have to pay off my cred card from my queenstown trip and start focusing on my baby

just repco or bnt mate

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just reading this thread, scooby-wrx, you say you dont need an idle control valve with a link, is this also posible with the new like G4 storms?

cheers, smurff

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 smurff said:

just reading this thread, scooby-wrx, you say you dont need an idle control valve with a link, is this also posible with the new like G4 storms?

cheers, smurff

of course. You dont *need* an idle valve with any programmable ecu as long as you can adjust fuel and ignition maps based on the coolant temperature. It will always run better with an idle valve though.

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hhmmm... if i use the ecu like you say it will save me trying to run two idle control valves .

cheers for that, im happyier now :D

-smurff

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got two seperat maifolds, one for each side of the bank. so to get it to idle i would need two of them, one for each plenum,

-smurff

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Mines still work in progress, I ground off the ICV and all the lugs. I just turned the manifold around but needed the Throttle body mounted a bit lower for bonnet clearance.

I run a link but its still hard to get a nice cold idle

img4348x.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very interesting

How are you going to make it idle when cold ??

Yes you can increase fuel when cold but you also need to open the throttle or ISC to make a car idle when cold

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