What to look for when Buying

[FORGE1]

Hey Everyone,

My wife and I are doing a bit of a hunt around for another vehicle in the next month or so.

We have previously owned 2 Subaru\'s

1998 WRX hatch

1998 Legacy GT wagon

What we are going to be looking at getting is a 2003+ Subaru Legacy GT or GTB Manual (Single Turbo).

Is there anything I need to look out for on them?

I have been trying to find one where the servicing has been done every 5,000kms but they are all being done around the 10,000kms mark.

I know with my previous Subaru\'s I was told 5,000kms servicing is the key to them lasting (which for us was true as we had no issues) is this not the case for the newer ones?

Also with higher kms ones (150+) is there anything to watch on those? Im a believer that good history with higher kms is better than a dodgy history and low kms.

As there is currently one on TM but its been in storage for the last year which is a put off for us as our current vehicle was in the same situation and Im just having to shell out $2,700 for a new trans because it sat for a long period and condensation mixed in with the trans fluid and caused corrosion internally.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Ray

[Kiwi_Fozze]

The auto\'s fry the turbo

[GC8E2DD]

Make sure everything electrical works; push every button and twiddle every knob. Head units die. Central locking fails. Trip computers die. Revision A BP5/ BL5 GTBs supposedly have significantly stiffer damping which you may or may not want. As mentioned the VF38s on autos are anecdotally weak.

[Scoobydoo]

There\'s an option being advertised on here, might tickle your fancy

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,34382.0.html

It\'s not manual though, so probably not what you want.

[gazzy2000]

 Scoobydoo said:

There\'s an option being advertised on here, might tickle your fancy

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,34382.0.html

It\'s not manual though, so probably not what you want.

thanks for the plug ;D

yea good car! in \'sport mode\' these things have some friggen get up and go, a very good performance alternative to STIs of the same year without all the attention.

[far4ngn]

Check all the door rubbers etc, mine just never fitted correctly...drove me insane

Never had a problem with my auto, it was a superb car.

[Joker]

Boon\'s quote I am going to post into every one of these threads that pop up is

 boon']

[quote name='ADIKT said:

if looking at a WRX. pay the little bit more and get an STI !!

/quote]

If the price is right and it looks like it hasnt been as abused as much then sure why not?

Anything WRX specifics that should be double checked? I have a few I want to look at this weekend

Get a V3 (MY96 I think) or newer. They get the facelift and more sensible arrangement of intake and intercooler. Also have a look at what turbo and airflow meter it has - not all WRXs are created equal, there\'s a big difference between one with a TD04L and the VF22 + Orange AFM model.

If you can get one that\'s as close to stock as possible that\'s a bonus. Boost tap = stay away. Even if "it\'s running less than factory bro" that doesn\'t mean it hasn\'t been raped to the boost cut half its life.

Check all the keyholes for signs someone\'s f*cked with them. Also if the monsoons are broken it\'s probably been broken into at some stage.

Mechanically, great question.... beyond normal stuff you\'d check on an old car I dunno really. Listen for piston slap, make sure the turkey you\'re buying it off hasn\'t warmed it up before you arrive to hide any quirks it has. Check the intake manifold - if it\'s hot, they\'ve pre-warmed it. A lot of older Subies have some quirks when cold (i.e. Piston slap/clatter or blowing a bit of smoke) that can reveal they\'ve had a hard life.

Try reversing it with hard lock and feel/listen for the centre or rear diff binding up.

we must do a FAQ for this one day

[FORGE1]

Awesome cheers for the replies guys much appreciated.

I did have a look at your one gazzy2000 it was the inspiration haha. If only it was manual I would snap it up. My wife broke her ankle a few years back and we had to have autos but this has now healed so she is wanting to get behind a manual again.

I will definatly be checking over everything mentioned above. There is a nice black on on there now but its had the motor replaced at 90kms so I reckon it might have had a hard life. We just want a nice tidy GTB manual. Our budget is $15k so hopefully be able to find something in that price range.

Thanks again

[clintondane]

I started a thread asking why it\'s the auto that kills turbos, does the manual version not and if not, why?

[GC8E2DD]

Did you pm vorigan? What was his opinion about the VF38 (auto turbo) vs the TD04 (manual turbo) in terms of reliability?

[clintondane]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/legacy/auction-550232268.htm

I emailed the owner of this car the other day asking why it\'s been on TM for so long without being snapped up and his reply was that most people are avoiding it because the cambelt etc hasn\'t been changed. I\'m not looking at one of these but if I was this would be a strong contender. He tells me it\'s going in for one either this week or next and then the price will be going up to original price which from memory was about $15k?

I know white isn\'t everyones cup of tea but from what you\'ve told us this ticks alot of the boxes for you?

[FORGE1]

Yeah the Manuals are 210KW and the Auto\'s are 190kw haha not one for more power as the speed limit is 100kph but when I want to pass someone I would rather it be 5th to 3rd then the Auto/Tippy chop down.

Woops forgot to mention haha it has to be a Wagon. got 2 kids and a dog haha so the wife wants a wagon again. Current vehicle is a EFII Fairmont V8 Sedan and its not cutting the mustard.

If push comes to shove and we cant find a nice wagon then we will look at the sedans but its more of a wait for the best one no rush as I just started a new job so getting into that first.

[FORGE1]

Is there any difference between a JDM and NZ New?

[boon]

 FORGE1 said:

Is there any difference between a JDM and NZ New?

Nz new will have a 260kph speedo and no 180kph cut. Jdm will have 180k speedo and speedcut, if that matters to you. Trim level may be different but it all depends how the vehicle was optioned. Often NZ carsget 1" smaller rims with higher profile tyres due to our shitty roads. Also unless its been changed the jap one will probably have either a nav system that thinks you\'re in Higashiyama or a gaudy silver minidisc player that beeps and flashes a lot.

[Guest]

 GC8E2DD said:

Did you pm vorigan? What was his opinion about the VF38 (auto turbo) vs the TD04 (manual turbo) in terms of reliability?

Did you try searching first? Sure hes piped up about it a couple of times.

[GC8E2DD]

Indeed O_o

[FORGE1]

 boon']

[quote name='FORGE1 said:

Is there any difference between a JDM and NZ New?

/quote]

Nz new will have a 260kph speedo and no 180kph cut. Jdm will have 180k speedo and speedcut, if that matters to you. Trim level may be different but it all depends how the vehicle was optioned. Often NZ carsget 1" smaller rims with higher profile tyres due to our s***ty roads. Also unless its been changed the jap one will probably have either a nav system that thinks you\'re in Higashiyama or a gaudy silver minidisc player that beeps and flashes a lot.

Sweet. cheers this is the final bit of info I was looking for. The trim and little nigly bits as I got enough from the mechanical side from the earlier posts.

Cheers

[newsuba]

The bit about wheels is wrong.

NZ BP/BL actually got the 18\'s as standard whereas they were optional on JDMs.

And early 2.0T manual cars were 206kW, not 210.

[paulngui]

In Japan you get the standard gt with 17" wheels or the spec b with 18". NZ never got the standard gt, only the spec b, hence coming std with the 18" wheels