Fitting cruise control

[sobanoodle]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[k1w1]

So the manual I looked up says to use b136 and pin 9 for the brake and b134 pin 1 for clutch switch bypass, I think this is for a JDM 2007 GT auto but possibly not

 

Also thanks for detailed pics!

Edited September 30, 2017 by k1w1

[Andy_Mac]

Side note related to this. Where in the map is the cruise control speed limit? Had a look at one just now to try raise it from 108kph and couldn’t for the life of me see anything slightly resembling it. @gotasuby do you know?

[sobanoodle]

28 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

Side note related to this. Where in the map is the cruise control speed limit? Had a look at one just now to try raise it from 108kph and couldn’t for the life of me see anything slightly resembling it.

 

Have you seen this thread ? 

[Andy_Mac]

Yea been looking at that one already. Had been hoping it was something that might show up in ECUFlash and not need to go to that kind of effort

[ajayel]

Added the steering wheel controls (from Strongs) to 2007 JDM facelift outback 3.0r  (button start).  The dash now shows cruise and set lights during the light test. Picked up the 4 pin brake switch but pretty sure the loom only has a 2 wire socket.   Tried it with the stock 2 pin anyway the dash cruise light is toggled with the button but set doesn't work.  got a DTC 61 (Malfunction in the stop light & brake switch is detected) on FreeSSM's cruise section.  read the thread here seems some more wiring is required prolly pass on DIY.  anyone got an auckland business that could help out  ?

 

ps/ how to remove the OBD II port to get driver footwell trim out of the way ? nearly broke the thing before giving up

Edited October 7, 2017 by ajayel

[sobanoodle]

Ajay @Subirex Automotive might be able to help.

[Subirex Automotive]

well this sucks. pre-facelift legacies have the added extra loom for 4 pin brake light switch. facelifts dont. but can be done with the right pinouts from BCM and ECU.

[sobanoodle]

2 hours ago, Subirex Automotive said:

well this sucks. pre-facelift legacies have the added extra loom for 4 pin brake light switch. facelifts dont. but can be done with the right pinouts from BCM and ECU.

 

Pre- push start facelift models also have 4pin brake switch, higher trims at least (GT/3.0).  

[k1w1]

Yea 2007 JDM face lift push start GT doesn't have the 4 pin plug either.

Now to find the correct ecu pin out diagrams and where to buy the ecu pins for the ecu plugs to complete a DIY...

[ajayel]

from this diagram ECM pin B20 wants 12v when ignition on and the brake pedal released for CC to work.  there is a pin C25 tied to ignition 12v on the AT that is used for clutch switch on the MT.  hopefully C25 is wired to steal 12v for the new contacts on the 4 pin brake switch (reminds me to pick up a matching loom plug).  otherwise will have to find that elsewhere and maybe also plumb back to C25. i'll have a look at the JDM ECU next weekend and check my cable colours and pin outs match the diagram.  

 

[ajayel]

took a look at my ECU today (it's labeled ED) pins and cable colours match the diagram. pin 20 on B135 is vacant. the clutch pin 25 on B136 is wired which is sweet. just need to run ignition 12v through the new brake switch back to B135 pin 20. picked up a similar ECU connector from strongs to figure out getting a pin out and in.  whats the secret to de-pinning these or just hacksaw one out of a spare connector?  andy

[k1w1]

What is everyone paying for the brake switch? I just got quoted $132 delivered to nelson for a used brake switch, a used 4 pin plug for the brake switch and 1 spare ecu plug (to get the pins) from Strongs ...

[Guest]

3 hours ago, k1w1 said:

What is everyone paying for the brake switch? I just got quoted $132 delivered to nelson for a used brake switch, a used 4 pin plug for the brake switch and 1 spare ecu plug (to get the pins) from Strongs ...

 

Just get aftermarket tridon universal one. Cheap as. Crimp new space terminals on to factory harness and job done.

[ajayel]

 

 

 

inspired by the people on club sub and reading the suby docs i figured DIY this weekend and share the notes before forgetting.

 

mine is the face-lift 07 auto trans H6 3.0R with engine push start button. not all loom wiring is pre made for these model years.  The purpose here is to complete the cruise control system by installing cruise buttons and parts to supply a brake switch signal to ECU pin B20. This is my write up, don’t do anything to stuff up your vehicle or anyone's safety and if you are not sure stop.  steps are in sequence each dependent on the previous.

 

1.      Have the correct service manual for your vehicle @ http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/ or https://techinfo.subaru.com.  Print and read the relevant pages in the subaru service manual because there is important information and safety info in the 5,000+ page service manual that is not detailed here.  

2.      Most of these steps required the battery to be disconnected.

3.      Check cruise and set lights are available on your dashboard, even if they are never lit.  We only noticed ours when the sun was right behind us.

4.      Check cruise is supported by the ECU.  I used FreeSSM with a cheap vagcom cable and the engine diagnostics page shows integrated cruise control on the left hand side of the window.  Not all models support cruise apparently higher spec models are more likely to

5.      Check you have a 2 pin brake light switch and there is not a 4 pin loom plug tucked away in the loom near your brake light switch.   if there is you are lucky and subaru have saved you a heap of time, just replace the switch with a 4 pin and ignore all of the new wiring steps.

6.      Use the service manual to identify and check the ECU under the front passenger foot well carpet that ;

1.      C25 (clutch pedal pin) is wired green yellow and tied 12v with ignition on (for auto transmission models), subaru included this wiring for us  

2.      note/ you could probably easily pick up the ignition 12v from elsewhere if you wanted to but i wanted to test C25 was working per the wiring diagram.

3.      B20 (brake switch) is not wired. Subaru didn’t include this for us as they did for some previous model years.  

7.      Check which cruise controls are required. Similar legacy/outbacks to mine have steering wheel cruise control

8.      Go to the wreckers and pick up;

1.      Steering wheel cruise control buttons

2.      4 pin stop light & brake switch

3.      4 pin stop light & brake loom connector with some wiring

4.      ECU plug with 5cm+ wires attached (computer under passenger footwell).  This is so we can take a pin out to use on B20

9.      not familiar with these components? practise removing ECU pins and also the connectors from the brake switch loom connector as this skills will be required later on.  I didn't this before so asked for help @ https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/48623/how-to-remove-pin-from-subaru-ecu-plug 

10.  Install steering wheel buttons which required removing the wheel to unscrew the buttons panels from the rear side.  My SW buttons were stereo controls on the left and a blank plate on the right.  Put it back together now the cruise dash light is shown during lamp test when the ignition is turned on. The set button on the steering wheel won’t do anything.  May get a DTC whilst driving when the computer realises the other circuits are not ready.

11.  now need to wire the normally closed contact on the 4 pin brake switch to feed ECU pin B20. I took the ignition power from C25 (spliced a couple inches back from the ECU plug)  up behind the foot well, above the stereo and over to the brake switch location.  The return came back along the same path to the ecu’s pin B20.   This was time consuming because removed most of the front trim panels to follow existing loom paths. Used  solder and heat shrink on all splices/joins and a PPS cable sleeve.  Don’t work on ECU cables with their plugs connected to the brain.  At first I couldn’t get the new ecu pin into B20 but gently did it to click in with the crimped side facing downward.

12.  Replace 2 pin brake switch loom connector with the 4 pin.  Used a small flat jewelers screwdriver to pop out the white/blue and brown/white wires from the new 4 pin loom connector as loom already had those.  Popped out same colour wires from the 2 pin and moved them over to the four pin.  Connected in the new cables from previous step. See pix above from @sobanoodle that yellow & green yellow wires are the new ones. Your green (or equivalent) goes from pin 1 on the connector to ECU B20 and your green/yellow from pin 4 on the connector to the ECU C25 splice.

13.  Replace 2 pin brake switch with the 4 pin brake switch using a 12 mm spanner and check it is in the correct position.  I used a multi meter to check the contacts changed state when the brake pedal was depressed even slightly (had to adjust the switch position, don't wanna be rear ended with no brake lights).  It was good to test from the ECU side as well to check the new circuit is working end to end.

14.  Put back enough of the panels and connectors to have the car driveable and test the engine starts  with no warning lights. 

15.  didn’t do anything else to enable cruise because the computer detected all of the signals were in place. it automatically enabled and made the cruise available

16.  go drive to test the new cruise control, it worked - the cruise function and dash lights operate nicely

 

If I did this over would probably use another source of ignition 12V rather than have to splice the C25 wire. anyways done now and uses same circuit, fuses and pins described in the service manual for the factory cruise.  

 

 

 

 

[Joker]

28 minutes ago, ajayel said:

inspired by the people on club sub and reading the suby docs i figured DIY this weekend and share the notes before forgetting.

 

 

ah maze ing write up man!

 

awesome info & well wrote out thanks for sharing thats why we love this place!

[k1w1]

1 hour ago, ajayel said:

Inspired by the people on club sub and reading the suby docs i figured DIY this weekend and share the notes before forgetting.

 

This guy is seriously a good sort, before writing this diy he helped me out with info for this mod and even sent me a spare ecu plug so I had the pins FOR FREE!

Edited October 14, 2017 by k1w1

[Joker]

needs more likes! seriously a CS GC

[Phillip]

A great helpful post.  Thank you for posting it.  I have had my 2005 3.0L Outback for 7 years now and love the car.  However, i really regret not getting a model fitted with Cruise Control when i bought it.  I have looked online many times trying to find out how to fit it retrospectively and always came up blank.  After reading this post i pulled my drivers footwell and steering wheel to pieces and found that the wiring and connections were already in place.  I got myself a steering wheel with cruise controls on and fitted it.  The computer recognised the controls at start up, but of course i couldn't set it as i only had a 2 pin brake pedal switch.  For some reason getting a 4 pin switch proved to be impossible.  Tridon have them listed but have discontinued them.  Even the local Subaru dealer couldn't help.  Multiple wreckers came up empty handed.

 

Eventually i found a way around it using a 12V DC single pole relay:

1.  Using the normally closed contacts on the relay tap in to the yellow and green/yellow wires on the 4 pin plug by the brake pedal.  This sends the closed signal to the computer that it is looking for to enable you to set the cruise control.

2.  Pick up the brown/white wire on the 2 pin brake pedal switch and connect it to the +12V on the relay coil.  This is the wire that goes to the brake lights.

3.  Connect the 0V on the relay coil to any convenient 0V point.  I used the cigarette lighter as it was easy to access.

 

It works perfectly and when the brake is applied the closed signal to the computer is broken and the cruise control is deactivated.  I can now drive comfortably without getting an aching right leg and spending more time looking at the speedo than the road in order to avoid giving extra voluntary contributions to Government funds.  Thank you again for the original post.

[Gripless]

Has anyone done this on the 08+ Impreza?

I was lucky that my came with a piggy back loom for the ignition power for the toll card reader, so I will be able to get the extra power for brake switch easy if there is no extra plug.

[Gripless]

So 2011 Impreza and forester switch part number seems to be 83154FG040.

4 pin brake switch 83370AA001 or older 83370AA000

 

can anyone put some links in here to the parts for the 08 Impreza and any other models.

 

has anyone tried this in a car without any steering wheel audio controls?

[sobanoodle]

3 hours ago, Gripless said:

can anyone put some links in here to the parts for the 08 Impreza and any other models.

 

https://partsouq.com/

 

See if you need any other genuine bits and pieces to offset shipping costs - plastic clips, missing trim bits, even genuine air/oil filters.

[Gripless]

14 minutes ago, sobanoodle said:

 

https://partsouq.com/

 

See if you need any other genuine bits and pieces to offset shipping costs - plastic clips, missing trim bits, even genuine air/oil filters.

What's the best way to find the matching part numers for your car.

this Subaru is the first where I don't have the dealer DVD with all the cars and parts.

[sobanoodle]

17 minutes ago, Gripless said:

What's the best way to find the matching part numers for your car.

this Subaru is the first where I don't have the dealer DVD with all the cars and parts.

 

Partsouq has parts catalogues, enter your chassis number and then browse through sections ---> diagrams and find part numbers of what you need.

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Subaru+Japan

 

OR

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/

[k1w1]

Does anyone know if pre facelift 4pin switch is the same as post facelift 4 pin switch?