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DIY Driveway Rim Dip (Plasti Dip)


A_J_T
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So Ive wanted to Plasti Dip my rims for some time now and have always wanted to know how good this stuff really is. So this weekend I committed and went out and got myself some supplies. First off there are plenty of good how to guides on using Plasti Dip and there really is no need for me to go into detail on How to dip your rims but never the less this is how I did it. Since I live in a city and have pretty much nothing to start with the first thing I did was gather the below inventory.

3x Cans Plasti Dip - ($25 a can at Repco atm) $75

1x Brake Clean Repco $7.50

1x Isopropyl alcohol Mitre10 $13ish

1x XXXL T-Shirt from the Warehouse I needed a rag :P $6

1x Pack of cards.. I got some jumbo cards from my local 2$ shop, worked out really good.

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So first things first if your rims are covered in City filth, brake dust and dog excrement youll want to give them a hose off. Once they are semi respectable grab your car jack and whip off a wheel. Note: There are plenty of people that will recommend just plasti dipping your rims while on your car and thats cool to. However, its not hard to remove a wheel and it really is worth it simply because you wont need to worry about cleaning off overspray and also having the wheel removed gives you much better angles to paint at. Alright once I had my wheel removed I popped off the axle cover cap and gave the entire rim a good wipe down with brake clean to ensure all tar and other residue was removed. After that I wiped the rim down with Isopropyl alcohol.Isopropyl alcohol is great for cleaning surfaces that you want to apply vinyl, decals, plasti dip etc.

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I then applied my jumbo cards around the bead of the wheel. This is another step that is not totally necessary as you can simply have at it with plasti dip and then peel the dip off your wheel when done, but really its nether expensive nor hard to poke a couple cards in here and there to create a clean and tidy finish.

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Now youre good to go, apply a thin coat first and let it dry for a minute and then proceed with thicker coats, as many as you feel needed. I personally think about 5-6 coats is good. This worked out to be about one can to two wheels, maybe a smidge more.

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Before

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After

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I had some Plasti Dip left over and decided to attack my emblems. I forgot to take pictures of the stages taken for the emblems but all I did was mask of a square around the emblem and gave it 5-6 coats then removed the masking and peeled off the remaining dip. I was pleasantly surprized at how easy this was.

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Edited by A_J_T
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 scooby-wrx said:
Looks great, thanks for sharing. I'm going to do a set of rims in white pretty soon, just deciding whether I'll need a clear coat or not - I'm thinking yes otherwise they may be a nightmare to clean?

I am new to using Plasti Dip and have not yet cleaned my rims, with the black I plan on washing them with a soft sponge and some warm soapy water. However, with white I would almost guaranty that the dip will absorb some dirt and dust over time "Other more experienced Members might be able to confirm this?". I think applying some sort of clear coat would be an Idea, this would create a hard gloss finish over the matt Plasti Dip “make sure you do your research on what clear coats are safe to use with Plasti Dip”. I know there is a Plasti Dip Glossifier which I believe to be a clear coat of sorts.

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  • 1 month later...

I had a tire replaced and rebalanced leaving a bit of a mess. Figured Id just touch it up rather than redoing it.

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First things first, I cleaned the wheel and masked the wheel nuts. Then grabbed a nice sharp packaging knife, cut around the corner of the rim lip and peeled the frayed edges.

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I also made a clean cut on the pealing Plasti Dip that was left from the weight being removed. just remember not to be too heavy on the blade as you don't want to scratch the rim.

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This time I decided to dip without index cards and see how easy it is to peel of the Tyre once I was done. Turns out its pretty easy and does peel off fine but Id still use index cards for dipping a set of rims because it does leave a bit of a shaggy mess for a couple days if you cant be bothered pealing all the little bits of left over dip off. It took 3-4 coats before the cut edges blended in, around the lip you cant tell its been patched at all and where the wheel weight was its barely noticeable. All in all I'm pretty happy as it only took 20 minutes and it looks like new again.

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Edited by A_J_T
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 kwi_fozze said:
have heard a few horror stories about painting the nut holes, paint melting and loosening off wheel nuts. possibly track racing concern? looks bloody mint though!!!

I find it hard to believe this would happen..but, considering the possibility its probably a smart move to simply cut around the surface/bottom of the nut holes and peel the dip out or mask the holes before dipping :) I'm pretty happy with the looks/durability etc. its nice stuff to work with for sure.

Edited by A_J_T
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 kwi_fozze said:
have heard a few horror stories about painting the nut holes, paint melting and loosening off wheel nuts. possibly track racing concern? looks bloody mint though!!!

My wheels have been fully dipped for a year and are perfectly fine, but as you say could be a track situation

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  • 1 year later...

Bit of an update on this. Removed the Plasti Dip the other weekend, just over a year of it on there and it came off ok. If you plan on keeping it on that long id recommend applying more coats, the thinker it is the easier it comes off. Seems to degrade over time and does rip when removing and makes it hard getting it all off clean. One wheel that I patched up had a couple more coats than the others and it all peeled off just fine. The others didn’t come off clean and I ended up soaking it in crc which melts it and just water blasted the remainder off. Also when peeling it off the plastic centre caps it peeled the paint off them. Looks like when I applied it the Plasti Dip became one with the paint.

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I've used it on a couple sets of wheels, it's pretty idiot proof but you're right - the thicker it goes on, the easier it comes off again.

I did a set in matt black with silver metaliser on top, gives an almost gloss shadow chrome look. The youtube channel is worth having a look at, can do some really funky colours and effects with the stuff.

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 Marky said:
I've used it on a couple sets of wheels, it's pretty idiot proof but you're right - the thicker it goes on, the easier it comes off again.

I did a set in matt black with silver metaliser on top, gives an almost gloss shadow chrome look. The youtube channel is worth having a look at, can do some really funky colours and effects with the stuff.

I misread you for a 5 buck rattle gun only type guy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did mine today too, here's a quick rough version of how I did it - total used 1 can black, 1 can metalizer

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One coat of metalizer looks like dis -

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Comes out a bit funny in photos but I tried to get the point across

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The sparkly chromey sorta effect can still be brought out more, with another coat or two - this is about 3x coats? With just one it gives a brushed steel sort of look, more coats means more effect

It's not mint quality -but- for $50 it's a pretty cheap and easy way to refurb wheels a bit - can create some pretty sweet effects with the other colours too, this is just matt black and silver metal over the top.

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What AJT said, apply thick coats if you plan on having it on for a year and wanting to remove it. I done my Maloo in Aus and after a year and a half they got clogged up with brake dust and dirt so i thought it was time to peel it off. All the front came off fine but i dont the inner rim also but only lightly. Wouldnt peel off so a **** load of degreaser is your friend at getting it all off. I ended up getting over it and bought new rims and sold the stock pentagons

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