Front-mount on worked 1st-gen. Worth it

[Kiwi_Fozze]

im sure you could keep it a bit flatter some how. there's bound to be a way to do it

[Pappu1]

 kwi_fozze said:

im sure you could keep it a bit flatter some how. there's bound to be a way to do it

The power is flat ish tho which is what I was aiming basically to keep between same level between main overtaking rpm hahha

Must try run in 1st gear and get 300kw u think lol

U mean flatter boost bro?

Na the dang vf turbos always seem to drop no matter wat sort of controller on internal gate

Have tried retune stock map

Hks evc

Apexi

Turbosmart

Gfb

Been reading online and all vf on internal gate drop boost like this it seems

Its either go external as seen few good gains or free boost hahahha

Have had boost slightly better when there is no restrictor in exhaust and drops bit less but with restrictor it drops even more like in graph which was done with restrictor

Hmmm external is so tempting.... Just to even hold 20 psi all the way through like some Ppl have

[Kiwi_Fozze]

yeah, i was thinking with what iv read about externals you could get it fairly flat...

the td turbos drop off a bit too... im down to about 8psi towards redline, peaking about 14. but, iv got a manual controller at the moment, and im sure that isnt helping hahaha

[rex-leggy]

try a td series

with more work it could be flatter (wish he kept his foot down longer haha)

[Pappu1]

Yea hping to try A td05/20g hahaha

But do all I can before giving in to the external temptation

[sultan]

 soopersubaru']

[quote name='pappu said:

what u think of this power curve soopersubaru

(have tried to make it as flat as i cud with the timimg etc)

4th gear run lol

IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b320/pappu1/my-tune.jpg[/img]

Have one very similar in the same gear, probably one of the best actually achievable on a short stroke high powered single charged turbo petrol engine.

Now if one could keep the boost climbing the torque would go flatter again, Almost unachievable! and still have a road drivable car.

the problem with your toque curve is you've dropped 8psi of boost between peak torque and peak power. you need to sort out boost control. if you've got the supporting fuel and the intake charge is cool enough that is. you do not need to change to an external wastegate. you need to use a good ebc and tune the gain and duty cycle properly

[CUDDAS]

i think mine was quite stable, although i had no where near that much power

[sultan]

what turbo is that? somethings not right man. those sharp declines in power and low overall power for the boost indicate to me that the turbo is retarding the shit out of the timing.

why'd they run it in 2nd gear?

[CUDDAS]

hahahaha tdo5h & yep only 2nd gear as they said i'd be walking home if they ran it up in third/fourth @20psi they didn't believe it would even pull 20psi

oh & as for the sharp looking decline that's what happens when you lift off the accel with an auto when held in 2nd i'd say aye...

[sultan]

lol well i guess it depends on tuning, intake temp, and fuelling if it will survive 20psi. somethings def not right if they lifted off the throttle and the boost kept going though!!!

[CUDDAS]

true right.. hadn't even noticed that, probably on the limits of the ecu & no map sensor, wasnt a tune it was just a dyno run, so really not alot of info given except that made ..kw's & 1030nm & that was good,

ah-well that was years ago will see if this link can make much from the same engine

[Pappu1]

Tried a few boost controllers and all but I think the internal gate just does bot want to hold it shut

So did this where hit high peak early and let it roll off lower

For what it's worth I do feel it's fairly safe as on the higher rpm it's not getting pushed to the limit - a way i make myself not hate the boost drop too much lol

Band aid much hahahah

[sultan]

there's nothing wrong with having the boost hit in hard and tapper off. makes the car have drivable power where it counts. don't know how much your turbo will like spooling hard up to 24psi even if only briefly though. the ebc's you tried, i imagine you didn't get the gain and duty cycle right.

[Pappu1]

Some Ebc have gain and all but even he hks Evc I tried had similar results

Anyway think it's just the internL gate setup on vf as seen a lot mostly fall

Only time seen vf hold boost is mostly with external

Also have a feeling what if the internal gate spring is getting limpy lol

Wud a td04 adjustable actuator fit strai to vf turbo - Wud anyone know

[Koom]

 CUDDAS']

true right.. hadn't even noticed that, probably on the limits of the ecu & no map sensor, wasnt a tune it was just a dyno run, so really not alot of info given except that made ..kw's & 1030nm & that was good,

ah-well that was years ago will see if this link can make much from the same engine

Sorry but it doesn't make 1030Nm.

This does (and is also torque limited to help the driveline survive);

yeah club sub goes off topic ha ha . but honestly i can't remember when the ver7 had peak torque etc so kinda throws that out the window . .

how do you work out fly Wheel torque from Wheel torque ? divide by 4 or something different ?

edit . just had another read and you said about final drive ?

what's the equation ?

To anwswer this as well as explain why Cuddas won't be making 1030Nm, there was a previous discussion about a 425kW car here;

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,17549.msg286913.html#msg286913

To work out the actual torque that the engine is producing then you need to read off the dyno chart, what the power figure is at the rpm point where peak torque is made.

i.e. for a 425kW (peak) car, that makes peak torque at 6100rpm and from its dyno chart is making approximately 400kW at that point of 6100rpm, the actual torque calculation is as follows;

So Actual Engine Torque = (Power [kW] x 9549)/(Revs[RPM])

= (400 x 9549)/6100

= 626 Nm

Which is a really impressive number ;D

i.e. WRC cars make around 500Nm of torque from memory.

So to use that equation and Cuddas' dyno plot you'd need to know the gear ratios to figure out the engine rpm at the peak torque.

[quote name='soopersubaru said:

Clarity restored?

I think anytime that you go near a keyboard that clarity gets thrown out the window and confusion is the general state of the nation. It is always difficult to understand even which side of the argument you are coming from?

[maserati mick]

Thought so 1030 nm thats a dodgeviper hennesey turbos nm figure

[CUDDAS]

well by the looks of the road speed on the graph it probably only made that power around the 4500-5000rpm as a guess,

i know it'd do around 120-130km in 2nd before having to knock it into 3rd which would see you through to the speed limiter, & the auto was 4.444 ratio, so it made bugger all then after that ???

[Guest]

 G-unit said:

stick with the w2a, same as a f-mount really but better ;D

god i remember the lag i used 2 get in my gtir when it had the massive top mount=suks

was talking to a mate aboute putting front mount on 01 sti.. he said its not worth it coz subys got such a miky set up of an engine , you gotta runn some mikey mouse pipeing set up to suit. and there for you'll get leg with front mount... you better putting bigger front mount or something like that ???... be honest don't know much aboute subys but like to help..