BC5 RS Legacy Low power EDIT FIXED

[SpeedySub]

3 hours ago, THUNDA said:

I dont use the factory wastegate either, installed a 38mm Tial  (mounted under the car straight off the exhaust manifold) and it performs extremely well

no boost spikes at all, not even half a psi, no boost creep in the slightest

That makes a difference to what I was thinking you had for a set up. I now recall your pics of the waste gate setup.

[THUNDA]

Woop, new S*** finally installed and the bitch is running tight!

 

Still yet to put greys in but thats the next step, couldnt find any even from strongs (yes there are second hand ones on trademe but they look rusty af)

 

Switch for the chip is wired backwards so ive finally figured out the ecu issues

 

Switch "OFF" is actually "ON" which Completes circuit for the speedlab chip, which is tuned for yellow injectors, in this state the car runs good

Switch "ON"  is actually "OFF" which Breaks circuit for the SpeedLab Chip and runs factory ECU which is expecting GREYS. in this state the car runs rich and backfires

 

So as soon as I get greys, Im gonna pull the chip right out and run the factory ECU as its ment to

 

Damn what a head do with that reverse wired switch!!!

 

 

 

[BC5RA]

Great news - nothing like an easy fix.

[slystiguy]

glad you got it sorted, grab yourself a multimeter and youtube how to read resistance, might save you $$ in the future and it's a simply way of identifying condition of coils/leads

[THUNDA]

5 hours ago, slystiguy said:

glad you got it sorted, grab yourself a multimeter and youtube how to read resistance, might save you $$ in the future and it's a simply way of identifying condition of coils/leads

Got 5 Greys from pikapart today, closer inspection showed 1 had a hairline crack

Visually other 4 looked good

 

Put them in

 

Car only running on the front 2 cylinders

Trying to find some brand new ones im sick of 2nd hand S*** failing on me

[THUNDA]

Progress, took spark plug out of the rear passenger side cylinder - was soaking went, dried it up chucked it back in

 

now running on 3 

 

drivers side rear cylinder not firing, took injector out and plug a yellow in, still didnt fire

took plug out, wasnt went, was really black carbony, so cleaned it up, but doesnt fire

 

did the stethoscooe trick, they all tick  (greys)

 

less smokey now but still puffing whitish smoke, no thick though

[BC5RA]

Its about 130 with GST at Edgell Performance to have your injectors cleaned and flowed.

 

Did you lift the rails to see if you have fuel leaking past the bottom O-ring?

Edited December 15, 2016 by BC5RA

[Guest]

18 minutes ago, BC5RA said:

Its about 130 with GST at Edgell Performance to have your injectors cleaned and flowed.

 

Did you lift the rails to see of you have fuel leaking past the bottom O-ring?

 

Dtech is 90 plus freight overnight. Used them few times for decaps.

[BC5RA]

Just now, evowrx said:

 

Dtech is 90 plus freight overnight. Used them few times for decaps.

 

Good to know - I've been out of the loop for a long time.

 

Injector removal and cleaning is a periodic maintenance check for me, I'll go that route next time.

[Guest]

@PBMS would do it to I would think. Might be an easier option if you need it done there and then.

[THUNDA]

13 minutes ago, BC5RA said:

Its about 130 with GST at Edgell Performance to have your injectors cleaned and flowed.

 

Did you lift the rails to see of you have fuel leaking past the bottom O-ring?

 

Nope, didnt have to touch the rails when removing injectors from pickapart so just installed them in the same way, grabbed all washers and o-rings at same time as the greys

 

So I got a stack of 0-rings and washers and injectors - have removed them all and inspected thoroughly and replaced

 

Am just going to get another set of 6 second hand ones  and get them checked/fixed  by the pros

 

Weird thought -

2 Front cylinders run sweet with the greys so those greys are staying for now

 

but the 2 rears are dodging me out because  the remaining 2 greys either both dont go (car running on 2 front cylinders only

 

, or if I swap them (the same 2 just from left side rear to right side rear) I get the passenger side rear cylinder running again (so running on 3 cylinders in total)

 

Have established its definately injector related though, as I checked each plug for spark against the engine, with the net coil/leads/plugs im getting very good spark all all cylinders

 

But with car running I cant get drivers side rear cylinder to work at all, not even with a working yellow in it  

Checked flow into rails and out seems normal but got no pressure obviously

 

so darn brain racked I gave up for tonight

Gonna get a compression tester tomorrow too just to get an idea of how much compression the lil motor still has 

[BC5RA]

I meant your own rails after install. Sometimes the O-rings pinch, and when you get rail pressure if the leak is bad enough you will hose the combustion chamber, potentially flooding the cylinder.

 

Could be the reason you have wet plugs?

 

Or maybe I'm just not understanding, in any case goodluck. 

[THUNDA]

57 minutes ago, BC5RA said:

I meant your own rails after install. Sometimes the O-rings pinch, and when you get rail pressure if the leak is bad enough you will hose the combustion chamber, potentially flooding the cylinder.

 

Could be the reason you have wet plugs?

 

Or maybe I'm just not understanding, in any case goodluck. 

 

 

Would putting a little oil on the o rings help/.?

[BC5RA]

9 hours ago, THUNDA said:

 

 

Would putting a little oil on the o rings help/.?

 

That's exactly what the manual recommends and thats what I did just recently.

 

You can go online and download the actual procedure.

[slystiguy]

you can use an led light to check if the wiring to injector is working, basically wire it in temp to the injector plug and it should flash every time it pulse the injector. Don't use a high wattage bulb of any kind, has to be super low wattage

 

maybe it's time you searched for some outside help? Offer some cash and beers to one of the guys in auckland on here or dobc ?

[THUNDA]

4 hours ago, slystiguy said:

you can use an led light to check if the wiring to injector is working, basically wire it in temp to the injector plug and it should flash every time it pulse the injector. Don't use a high wattage bulb of any kind, has to be super low wattage

 

maybe it's time you searched for some outside help? Offer some cash and beers to one of the guys in auckland on here or dobc ?

 

So decided to take a greys out so i can have them serviced

 

Put the yellows back in, one by one carefully with oil on both o rings

Plugged it all back in and....

 

Front left cylinder not firing now  all others are sweet (that cylinder was running with the greys)

 

Front left cylinder was the last injector I installed, which is why its interesting that that particular one isnt working as Rear left injector was the last one I installed yesturday and that one wouldnt fire either .

 

am I supposed to depressurise the fuel lines while im installing them? was thinking maybe because its the last one to go in that it cant find a nice seat because as you push the injector in theres nowhere for the air to go?

 

Also, pretty sure engine will be flooded with petrol now so could the front o2 sensor potentially be shutting off a cylinder as its reading super rich levels?\\

 

Yup if i cant sort it this weekend ill just take it to the local mechanic

[slystiguy]

you sure the plugs are on the injector properly? try wiggling the wires and that or get a test light as above. Seems weird. Don't think o2 would cut a single cylinder but you might wanna consider changing oil if there's been too much petrol in there as it runs down the bores into the oil. Must be a local guy who can sort it for you lol it's pretty easy stuff 

[THUNDA]

Yup dont think its a injector plug problem because the cylinder thats misfiring is different every time i uninstall / reinstall the injectors\\

 

i.e car before i put greys in - all cylinders running

car after i put greys in - rear left cylinder not running at all

car after i took greys in and out again - rear right cylinder not running at all

car after i put yellows back in - front left cylinder not running at all

 

 

You right, it does seem easy, car was running mint on wednesday but i had to go and F*** with it didnt i  

[BC5RA]

You should unplug the fuel pump and crank the engine to depressurize the rails.

[THUNDA]

Sweet so got all cylinders firing

couldnt sort it with the greys so yellows back in untill i find a set of greys and get them serviced

 

sweet got my power back

 

but not sweet, car now overheats and smokes like a bitch -______- fukn fuk super tired of it now, tried bleeding it and all that S***

 

just gonna take it to the mechanics arrrrrggggggggggg, hopefully i get it back before xmas really wanting the rs to cruise around with on my only 2 weeks of the year off 

[slystiguy]

On 12/4/2016 at 2:18 PM, slystiguy said:

Swap back to grey injectors and ditch the speedlabs chip. Sadly every single one of this ecu I've heard about has popped the engine shortly after install, unsure if just because weak engine or random contributing factors? Or it could be a bad tune/match. I've used it and stuffed an engine from it but I was deliberately seeing how far the stock engine would go lol (the guy I sold it too also blew his engine). Keep the chip for a later date or send it back to him and get a 6k/7k ecu tune put on it... or send it to me so I can play with it. 

 

 

I'd say the injectors and speedlab chip will be the cause of your issues. 

If you do want to keep running it I'd suggest you get a wideband/knock indicator before going further.

 

EDIT* if it's overheating that's not a good sign though  Has it got water in the radiator/toptank ? When my HG went it was pushing water out the overflow. Isn't there a Auckland subaru guy was it @Subirex Automotive maybe??

[THUNDA]

33 minutes ago, slystiguy said:

 

EDIT* if it's overheating that's not a good sign though  Has it got water in the radiator/toptank ? When my HG went it was pushing water out the overflow. Isn't there a Auckland subaru guy was it @Subirex Automotive maybe??

 

Pulled the thermostat out to check it, its F***ing brownish red looks old as hell but still opened when boiling it in the pot, will tell mech to chuck a new one

 

Yup, followed multiple intructions on here as to filling/bleeding the cooling system, meh im over it just gonna get a pro to look at it, auctions are tomorrow so hopefully I come home with a V5 V6 wrx then ill do the transplant into the RS

 

its not pushing water out or anything, heater blows hot air when engine warm, pretty sure its just my lack of mechanical knowledge 

havnt let the car go over 3/4 temp and car doesnt over heat while driving, maybe waterpump happened to run out at the same time

 

also thinking the smoking is one of the injectors no seating properly or its just burning off all the fuel that spilled into the engine during injector change

 

im not letting this car die ever so it will be fine

[THUNDA]

Tried pming subirex automotive but inbox must be full

[Guest]

28 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

Tried pming subirex automotive but inbox must be full

 

@Subirex Automotive or try facebook. He is a legitimate business not a backyard guy so should be able to google him too.

[willisnz]

https://www.facebook.com/subirexautomotiveltd/ http://www.subirex.co.nz/