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Up pipe to turbo rounded nut.. Help?


That Guy
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In the process of removing the turbo so that I can throw some new exhaust gaskets in place. Long story short is I have come across a rounded nut, which I have then gone and rounded a little more.

 

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So I have managed to remove all the remaining nuts with a little bit of a struggle, however, the pictured item is being somewhat of a c*nt. Due to its location, I am I have been unable to get a half inch driver on there. I have managed to bash on a 13mm 3/8 drive, but when applying load I snapped the extension where it connects to the socket. I have coated the hell out of it with CRC, but now, even with a 13mm bashed on it goes straight into slip mode. There is no room for an angle grinder of hack saw to cut the nut off and I am way too paranoid to get a gas torch in there to apply heat, due to all old oil and whatnot living around this area.

To the best of my knowledge, it seems impossible to remove the turbo and up pipe in one piece, due to the bracket on the rear of the turbo.

Any ideas would on how to sort this (without a welder) would be radical!

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I'd drill it out progressively, ie start with a 3-4mm bit to get a hole the whole way through then go up a few sizes and eventually give it a whack.

A renovator style tool would be perfect for that spot I reckon, would kill a few blades in the process but would get there eventually.

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19 minutes ago, 94 Leone said:

get a multihex half inch ring spanner (as half inch is half a mil smaller than 13mm)  and hammer it on, it sacrifices the nut, but once it's on and you crack it, she'll be sweet also, overnight coat the C*** in inox/crc/wd-40 

 

You could be onto something there, I didn't think of inviting old mate imperial to the party.

The main issue with a spanner is leverage, or the lack of space to achieve any. I was using a 600mm braker bar with a 400mm pipe on the end for addition leverage and it still wouldn't crack it, had it turned up to 11 and you could see a fairly reasonable amount of flex in the braker bar.

I am keen to spend zero dollars on additional tooling unless it comessage to the complete crunch/bitter end. 

33 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

I'd drill it out progressively, ie start with a 3-4mm bit to get a hole the whole way through then go up a few sizes and eventually give it a whack.

A renovator style tool would be perfect for that spot I reckon, would kill a few blades in the process but would get there eventually.

 

This is also a pretty sweet idea. I am doubting that I will be able to squeeze a drill in tho. Hopefully I can find some spare time tomorrow to have a hack

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11 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

Irwin have a tool for it, I have a set designed for screws which works great with old timber S***,

Most Irwin products are good quality so id imagine they would do the trick

 

http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/9-pc-fractional-bolt-extractor-set

 

Irwins pretty good, so have a fair bit of irwin gear from when I was on the tools, Mainly cramps, spade bits, impact driver kits.. Might even still have an Irwin pinny floating around somewhere still?

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undo the bottom bolts on the uppipe and pull the whole turbo and upipe out as one piece?  then go to town on it. Or use a chisel if you can get in there with one, you should be able to remove uppipe if you remove the bracket bolts to engine? 

 

 

crc is not that great, use the penetrate stuff, that and a 6 point socket set/couple dog bone style wrenchs

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You should be able to remove it as a whole piece as others have suggested.

 

Best to go this route - get under the car and assess.

 

Once it's all off - you could rotate the up pipe and loosen it without further barbarism. Not that i'm saying there isn't a time and place for it

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