Subru

Track width conversion front end and Group N Mounts.

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I got all the parts I need to do the Sedan conversion on the front.

I have new Sedan rack ends, Alloy arms, new whiteline bushes/anti lift kit and sedan sway bar/links.

Do I need to use an inner rack end remover tool or can I just use some locking pliers (forgot the name). Do I need new rubber boots/washers or anything like that?

Sway bar I just need to remove the sub frame and a plate in the middle afaik. Then tighten everything with front wheels on ground.

Control arms should be easy enough.

Might also install my group N engine mounts as I might have better access bolts and things with no subframe, sway bar, control arm or rack ends in the way.

I'll also install new brake pads at same time. Cant wait untill its all done. Should be interesting after its all done and aligned :)

Any tips would be handy.

20181027-212704.jpg

Edit: still need to install my rocker cover gasket set too....

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26 minutes ago, Subru said:

I have new Sedan rack ends, Alloy arms, new whiteline bushes/anti lift kit and sedan sway bar/links.

 

What does that kit exactly do? I'm curious about specifics.

 

26 minutes ago, Subru said:

Do I need to use an inner rack end remover tool or can I just use some locking pliers (forgot the name). Do I need new rubber boots/washers or anything like that?

 

Bend back the locking washer first (will need a big flat-head screw driver or chisel for this) first. Then a big spanner (the open end) if you have the right size will work. Locking pliers (or water pump pliers or poly-grips) should work fine. If you have access to the proper tool, I would use it.

There should be new locking washers on the new rack ends. If not, reuse the old ones. Or use some Loctite (use the stronger mid-strength stuff - I've seen drifting people use red super strength and wreck steering racks by doing that).

Shouldn't need new boots, unless they're torn in anyway. Just cut the ties holding them on. A decent cable tie will work fine for holding them on (it's what most workshops do these days).

You can get generic ones you cut the ends to fit your rack etc from Repco/SuperCheap if you want new ones.

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Im not the guy to talk to about this. Basically the control arms from sedan gives a wider track width as wagons have non alloy control arms which are shorter. I assume its ligher too. A few people have done it here and they can explain better im sure. Whiteline anti lift kit is not nessesary but i needed new bushes anyway so I decided to get it.

 

Yep just checked, they do come with locking washers. Thanks for info

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Get the new set of boots anyway. Better to swap them now than have worn ones.  Plus sometimes they are worn enough that the tear when sliding them back.

 

what are you using to fix the camber issues?

Depending on the width increase extending the slot on the shocks can work, or camber plates up top.

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21 hours ago, Subru said:

Do I need to use an inner rack end remover tool or can I just use some locking pliers (forgot the name).

I've always used a specific tool. Might be possible without one but frankly I haven't tried. Side note, aftermarket rack ends are often the incorrect parts so probably worth checking the length is right before starting the job and finding out the parts are wrong.

 

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Do I need new rubber boots/washers or anything like that?

It is a good idea to use new washers but as already mentioned you will get new ones with the rack ends you purchase. Rack boots really depends on the condition of you current ones, they tend to perish then crack/split over time with age. It is a good time to replace them though since you are going to take them off anyway.

 

Quote

Sway bar I just need to remove the sub frame and a plate in the middle afaik. Then tighten everything with front wheels on ground.

You definitely don't need to remove the subframe, unless you mean the U-brace piece which you will have to remove for the ALK anyway.

If you have some blocks or ramps then you could lower the car onto its wheels on the blocks to tighten the LCA bolts. Might make it a bit easier.

 

Quote

Control arms should be easy enough.

Might also install my group N engine mounts as I might have better access bolts and things with no subframe, sway bar, control arm or rack ends in the way.

I'll also install new brake pads at same time. Cant wait untill its all done. Should be interesting after its all done and aligned :)

Any tips would be handy.

 

Edit: still need to install my rocker cover gasket set too....

 

You can align the front toe fairly close by eye, just set the steering wheel straight then look with one eye down the front wheel to the back wheel which should make it fairly easy to see which way you need to wind the inner rack end to get the wheel straight. Then you should probably drive it straight to the wheel alignment afterwards.

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Doing this tommorow. Went in for WOF and needs new boot anyways so im just gonna do em both. So should i still use thread locker or is it not nessesary with a locking washer?

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Technically loctite isn’t necessary if the locking washer is used correctly. (No loctite is used at the Subaru factory)

 

I’m sure you will get opinions both for and against using it from different people, so up to you really.

 

As long as it is nice and tight and the washer is bent over, it should be fine.

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How tight is necessary as im not going to be using correct tools as a set costs a lot and I dont know anyone with a set.

I would rather get this right so a rack end doesn't come off while im driving (if thats possible) Otherwise its sky, road, sky, road, sky, road, crash xD.

 

 

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Kinda hard to describe ‘how tight’ in text :/

 

If you don’t have the right tools you could do everything else, keep you existing rack ends. Then wind the toe to pretty close on you original rack ends. Drive to the alignment place and get them to fit the rack ends before they do the alignment.

Assuming the alignment place isn’t too far from your house.

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Just now, IZichard said:

Kinda hard to describe ‘how tight’ in text :/

 

If you don’t have the right tools you could do everything else, keep you existing rack ends. Then wind the toe to pretty close on you original rack ends. Drive to the alignment place and get them to fit the rack ends before they do the alignment.

Assuming the alignment place isn’t too far from your house.

hmm, I'll do some more research, would rather do it myself. My alignment guy is 25 mins away.

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57 minutes ago, Subru said:

Would this do the job?

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/brands/toledo/toledo-inner-tie-rod-tool-set/p/A1271406

Are there any places where you can hire/borrow one? In the US they can loan all sorts of gear from 'autozone' but we dont have that.

Maybe? I’ve never tried one like that before. The part that makes it tricky is that it is surrounded on three sides by the subframe so there isn’t much room. The tube type tool works well.

 

When I did my swap I drove around for about a week with the wagon rack ends while I waited for the sedan ones in the mail, I just took it really easy. So you could drive the 25 mins if you had to.

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My subframe is out already for sway bar which i just installed (not end links yet) and it has decent roon around it. I might grab one of those from repco if nessesary.

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On 28/10/2018 at 7:35 PM, IZichard said:

 Side note, aftermarket rack ends are often the incorrect parts so probably worth checking the length is right before starting the job and finding out the parts are wrong.

Just did this. They are the exact same size as my wagon ones... althought they still had about 20mm adjustment for more toe. I might just leave em on and take to alignment shop and say if he needs to change them ill have to swap them out.

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Uhh just realized that my alloy control arm doesn't have the small bush for the ball joint. The arm that came out appears to have something there.

@IZichard how did you get around this one..

Old arm:

20181106-082954.jpg

New arm:

20181106-083343.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, Subru said:

Uhh just realized that my alloy control arm doesn't have the small bush for the ball joint. The arm that came out appears to have something there.

@IZichard how did you get around this one..

There's no getting around it, you need pn 20216FA000 

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Just now, Subru said:

okay, damn I knew there would be one thing...

haha yep i got caught out on the same thing ¬¬ see if Subaru have them in stock (assume $$$ tho) otherwise get them in from partsouq/whatever you like

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Kinda want it done today so im just gonna give Subaru a call and see what they got. Will places like Bnt have stuff like this?

Edit: Rang Bnt and they didn't seem to have anything. Only have 1 in New Zealand from Subaru so have brought 2 off partsouq which will take 3-4 days.

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Just found out I might have been given the wrong front control arm bush in my kit (somehow). I ordered WEK076 front essentials kit which " Suits Front bushing length = 60mm " and comes with W52837A front bushes which is correct. I measured my front bushes just now and they are about 55mm so too short. They are supposed to go in the WEK075 kit so I assume they put the W51709A instead of the W52837A, probably a easy error  to make as its the only difference between the two front essentials kits and I should have checked first too.

Someone put all my empty whiteline packs in the bin so I cannot check the bags for what stuff I got :(

 

20181106-104041.jpg

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Basically what @calebwrx said you need the little cone piece.

 

5 hours ago, Subru said:

Just did this. They are the exact same size as my wagon ones... althought they still had about 20mm adjustment for more toe. I might just leave em on and take to alignment shop and say if he needs to change them ill have to swap them out.

I called it 😛

 

Yeah that shorter front LCA bush is for the earlier models. I have slowly learned to double and triple check parts since things are always wrong :/

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Yeah can be very annoying. I already need to wait 3-4 days for those cone bushes so i should be able to sort the front LCA bush by then.

So far 2 wrong parts and 1 part I didnt know about. Sounds like my kind of luck when working on cars... xD

 

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22 hours ago, Subru said:

Are there any places where you can hire/borrow one? In the US they can loan all sorts of gear from 'autozone' but we dont have that.

 

Ummm I just did it with a oil filter removal strap and adjustable crescent lol, not ideal but hey, got the job done and better than spending $80 on a tool you'll use once

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