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Project Kinder Surprise - engine build


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That and I want low and mid range power with good spool so mild cams should work.

the 1mm oversize should allow more flow with a lower lift and the valve train won’t have harsh profile to deal with. So no valve float at higher rpm. 
it’s all a guess and won’t know how high I can rev it until the tune. With stock valves B cam is good for 600hp.

I can always swap cams and/or turbo out but valves etc need way more work. 

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  • 1 month later...

RCM parts list cos duck it. 

head studs


timing belt guide


timing belt kit



Upper Oil baffle



oil pickup


in the past I just cut a slot in the oem one so it couldn’t even bottom out but this seems more legit

did think of drilling a series of 3mm holes around the bottom of the oem one and threading a 3mm silicone or oil safe rubber tube through it to do the same idea of stopping the pickup hitting the bottom and supporting the weight. 

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  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

Well cos COVID and well all of 2020 since March being out of town, this got nowhere. 

Just as I go to restart it, the car door gets messed up in attempted thief.

Then car got stuck for 2 months with first 2021 lockdown and getting insurance done.

no insurance company issues they took claim in 10 mins.

It got towed day before lockdown and got a bit lost between towing and panel beaters.

Looks mint now though.


So drop in to PBMS to say let’s go and lockdown again… WTF.


Anyway not much left to buy or select.

ECU will Emtron as not much choice with newer canbus car

fuel system bits like cradle and flex fuel. Going to add sensor as why not.

head gaskets depending on need but fire ring if possible

ARP case bolts I’m pretty sure these got ordered but no idea where the ended up.

have those spacers for intake to help drop temp

need intercooler setup and scoop less bonnet 

headers well was going low mount but to much time effort so will fall back to twisted setup

Maybe new radiator as well since it may run slightly warmer 



Edited by Gripless
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Forgot the wide-band 


also torn on pulleys, I like lightweight, but not under drive of alternator. On  the other hand new higher rev limit it might be required.


valve train is super light and cams aren’t aggressive so could pass 9500rpm plus rotating assembly is also way over spec and lightweight.


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14 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:


Skip the lightweight one for sure. Only options on a decent engine should be a factory new one or a proper aftermarket one like ATI or Fluidamper. 

Subaru America said no damper required for boxer in Subaru.

pully is purely to drive the belts, otherwise damper is vital on inline or V motors.

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1 hour ago, Gripless said:

Subaru America said no damper required for boxer in Subaru.

pully is purely to drive the belts, otherwise damper is vital on inline or V motors.


I've yet to see any real engine builder suggesting alloy ones over anything real though. 


I had been tossing back and forth between OEM and Fluidamper for mine but with the timing I just ended up using a new factory one.


Unabomber’s manifesto mentions it isn't needed directly from Subaru America but back to back testing usually shows a very slightly smoother running engine when dyno testing which can't be a bad thing.

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