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Check Engine Light CEL Codes


kamineko
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check out this page... http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/celcheck.htm

[table]

[tr][td]CEL [/td][td]Item [/td][td]Diagnosis [/td][td]Fail-safe operation[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]11[/td][td]Crankshaft position sensor[/td][td]Irregular signal received[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]12[/td][td]Starter switch[/td][td]Abnormal signal emitted from switch[/td][td]Turns starter sw signal to off[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]13[/td][td]Camshaft position sensor[/td][td]Irregular signal received[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]21[/td][td]Engine coolant temp sensor[/td][td]Abnormal signal emitted[/td][td]ECU adopts a set temp. Radiator fans ON[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]22[/td][td]Knock Sensor[/td][td]Abnormal voltage emitted[/td][td]Sets regular fuel map, retards ignition by 5degrees[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]23[/td][td]Mass air flow sensor (AFM)[/td][td]Abnormal voltage emitted[/td][td]Fuel map set by revs and throttle[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]24[/td][td]Idle air control solenoid[/td][td]Valve inoperative[/td][td]adjusts idle via fuel set by revs, vehicle speed & throttle[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]31[/td][td]Idle switch (EJ20G)[/td][td]Abnormal voltage emitted[/td][td]ECU adopts a set throttle position value[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]32[/td][td]Oxygen sensor[/td][td]Inoperative[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]33[/td][td]Vehicle speed sensor 2[/td][td]Abnormal voltage entered[/td][td]ECU adopts a set value[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]38[/td][td]Torque control signal (AT)[/td][td]Abnormal signal from TCM[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]42[/td][td]Idle switch[/td][td]Abnormal signal from TPS Idle switch[/td][td]?[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]44[/td][td]Wastegate control solenoid[/td][td]Solenoid inoperative[/td][td]Fuelcut when WOT at heavy load[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]45[/td][td]Pressure sensor /

Pressure exchange solenoid[/td][td]Abnormal signal from pressure sensor or

pressure exchange solenoid inoperative[/td][td]Fuelcut when WOT at heavy load[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]51[/td][td]Neutral switch (MT)[/td][td]Abnormal signal from switch[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]51[/td][td]Park/Neutral position switch (AT)[/td][td]Abnormal signal from inhibitor switch[/td][td]-[/td]

[/tr]

[tr][td]53[/td][td]Immobiliser (if equip)[/td][td]Faulty Immobiliser system[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]61[/td][td]Inhalation valve solenoid[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

[tr][td]62[/td][td]Exhaust valve solenoid (vacuum)[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

[tr][td]63[/td][td]Boost pressure relief valve solenoid[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

[tr][td]64[/td][td]Secondary waste gate solenoid[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

[tr][td]65[/td][td]Differential pressure sensor[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

[tr][td]66[/td][td]Sequential twin turbo system[/td][td]Somethings broke au![/td][td]runs like crap[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]67[/td][td]Exhaust valve solenoid (+ve pressure)[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

[tr][td]68[/td][td]Exhaust valve duty solenoid[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

[/table]

some other downloadable stuff, cheers log1call

 log1call said:

With reference to poster one's helpful information... There are two pdf documents here...

http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public

about the trouble codes, what the criteria are for them to be set and to be cleared by the ecu to be specific. Good reading if you want to be sure to make a correct diagnosis. Perhaps they could be added to the data file.

Edited by kamineko
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how to reset a v7 wrx computer so all the codes get cleared off?

i have tried to leave the power off for over 24 hours and no luck and also tried to put the 2 green plugs and ign on and off and no luck

basically, i had code come up for a faulty sensor which i replaced but cannot get the check engine light to go off and hence its in limp mode

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 kamineko said:

it may not be the sensor then, it may be the wiring or a connection

i thought about that but apperently you are supposed to clear the codes on the ECU

using either the scanner tool from the subaru people of some form of predetermined activity

like plug something and drive in 1st gear for x km at xx speed.. not sure what the process for the GD seried impreza is

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 kamineko said:

yep however your not going to clear your codes when a problem persists

tru tru.. ok assuming the correct sensor was replaced with the proper unit as per subaru spec..any ideas how to clear the codes..

PS. u got my mail for the track day?

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to my knowledge, and someone please correct me if im wrong....

the CEL shouldn't be on when normal driving, unless there is actually a problem, if u fix the problem the light should go out... but the code will stay in the ECU memory until cleared... so if u light is still on then I agree with kamineko, you still have an issue...

what sensor was it? what code?

[fixed speeling]

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 pappu']

[quote name='kamineko said:

yep however your not going to clear your codes when a problem persists

/quote]

tru tru.. ok assuming the correct sensor was replaced with the proper unit as per subaru spec..any ideas how to clear the codes..

PS. u got my mail for the track day?

in a GC8 you connect the black and green pairs of plugs, start the car, and drive constantly untill u get an even CEL flash.

if you get another code spat back at you, the ECU still isn't happy with that sensor or whatever.

if its even flashing, its all clear, u turn off the engine and unplug. all done.

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 kamineko']

[quote name='kamineko said:

yep however your not going to clear your codes when a problem persists

/quote]

tru tru.. ok assuming the correct sensor was replaced with the proper unit as per subaru spec..any ideas how to clear the codes..

PS. u got my mail for the track day?

in a GC8 you connect the black and green plugs, start the car, and drive constantly untill u get an even CEL flash.

if you get another code spat back at you, the ECU still isn't happy with that sensor or whatever.

if its even flashing, its all clear, u turn off the engine and unplug. all done.

the CEL is still on darn it.. was a EGT sensor - replaced - well bolted to earth as needed

got a new dump pipe so there was no place for the egt probe so i just grounded another probe beside the pipe.

the cel is on still after that..

i will plug the 2 green plugs and drive constantly hoping it should clear - will try tonight

car is a gda version 7

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It's possible that the sensor isn't within it's expected range and so the light comes on. It needs to be connected thermaly so it gets near the right temp. You could try wrapping it in asbestos wrap(just kidding). Better though to get a fitting welded on to the exhaust and plug it back in.

As the guys have said, you have to fix the problem, then the light will go out.

To wipe the stored codes you have to connect all four wires, not just the green ones.

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With reference to poster one's helpful information... There are two pdf documents here...

http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public

about the trouble codes, what the criteria are for them to be set and to be cleared by the ecu to be specific. Good reading if you want to be sure to make a correct diagnosis. Perhaps they could be added to the data file.

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 log1call said:

To wipe the stored codes you have to connect all four wires, not just the green ones.

what 4 wires?

do you know the colors?

i saw 2 greens as described - what other ones im to look out for

and importantly - what order and colors to be plugged?

do i just plug and ignition on or start and drive the car..

sorry for the hassle but kinda in the dark on this info

thanks'

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Guest Rugged_RS

if its like my leggy there should be a set of green and a set of black plugs that ALL need to be connected to erase error codes from your ecu, thats how i cleared mine...

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Guest Rugged_RS

Oh and plug them all in green male to green female and same with the black's to each othyer then turn on ignition, start the car and take it for a drive (prefereably in a 100km zone) until it flashes in a constant pattern, then stop, turn off unplug and your away laughing, hope this helps

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 Durty-Sanchez said:

With the green and black connectors together you only need to hit 11kmph to wipe the error codes, so do-able in a driveway and even in reverse

so just to confirm..

plug in the green and black connectors

and drive more than 11kmph

then turn off engine and take the plugs off..

right?

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 kamineko said:
[table]

[tr][td]CEL [/td][td]Item [/td][td]Diagnosis [/td][td]Fail-safe operation[/td][/tr]

[tr][td]66[/td][td]Sequential twin turbo system[/td][td]Somethings broke au![/td][td]runs like poos[/td][/tr]

[/table]

LOL! Love it. ;D

Apparently there's allot more to 66 if you have a look with a scanner.

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From personal experience:

If your secondary turbo stops working in your TT, and you get Code 65, and you have a ZS Sequential controller, you are getting a short somewhere (bullet connections FTL). A quick work around until you can find the offendig wires and slap them upside the head is to pop the face off of the controller (squeeze each end) where you will find a little button. Press it. This resets the controller. Turn car back on, cel code is gone and secondary is back online.

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So i checked mine today and got 2 error codes

12 and 24

Recently ive had hi rev ideling issues but since ive reset it this morning she looks to be going ok

just to make sure, how serious are these two.. Do i need to be worried and prepair for spending?

*** so now new issue.... its that month! they all coming out the woodwork****

2000rpm idle when i start my car :S wtf is going on with this thing :(

Been perfectly fine for over a year and BAM it all feks out

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not sure about your 12, i wouldnt worry about it, but 24 is your idle control. its probably gunked up, common problem. grab a can of upper engine cleaner and blast it with engine off then running. post up asking how to clean your idle control valve, someone may make a how to.

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I went into repco greenlane asking for upper engine cleaner adn i was provided a wynns product i add to my oil. (which did make a dif, my VOD seems to be closer to 5000rpm now and not 4000 anymore.)

Im thinking i need one that goes into my fuel?

Gonna go back today i think.

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