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damn up pipe is leaking


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Ok thanks.

Other thing is, if the up pipe is leaking the rest of the header system is probably on the way out. With buying 2nd hand headers there is the risk of them having there own issues.

What about those redline semi tuned headers. Have people had much success with them?

I have mixed feelings on stainless steel headers.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Other/auction-336636330.htm

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no the up pipe leak in common at the flexi joint and rest of the system will be fine, just replacing the up pipe with a known good one or a brand new rage(?) one (same diameter as factory) would be the best options.

Some people don't suggest using a 2nd hand because its a C*** to change them and it will wear out quicker than a new one

Edit: like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Other/auction-336214242.htm

or save yourself $60 and try this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Exterior/auction-335455920.htm

If mine starts leaking i be going new

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 daxter said:

Ok, thanks for the info.

Do you know what the word is on the radline headers? Are they good or crap?

Those cheap ones from Redline are complete rubbish. They just about touch the ground.

The expensive ones (SSI from memory) are really nice, well made though. Quite like those ones.

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Stainless are ok, some people swear they aren't but with years of trackdays I've only chewed through one set of stainless headers and that was more likely due to some major offs I had on the track that did that. It is more about quality then if they are stainless....Quality will always win, what you pay for is what you get.

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 daxter said:

stira, which headers are you referring to? thanks

If I just replace the leaky up pipe. Are these stainless steal items ok?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Other/auction-336214242.htm

Sorry, when you change the leaky up pipe. Personally I wouldnt worry about the headers to much unless you were going for massisve power, but thats me.

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I found a pic of what those redline headers look like installed.

3ifx5bzz.jpg

My mechanic has quoted me 510+gst, If I buy them through him and he installs them - (so there fully covered if anything goes wrong take it back to him and he will fix it free)

The cost of replacing just the up pipe isn't cheap, so doing headers at same time seems like a good idea. - But going by your guys feed back it seems there isn't much love for them here lol

Car is sounding more like a tractor under the hood so will have to do something about it soon >_<

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my header/uppipe gasket has completely failed as well mate - and my turbo wont spool at all, car sounds terrible etc etc. Also need to sort mine asap.

Those look like a fairly good design, are they port matched? and how close is the drivers bank pipes to the sump?

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Hi, there the redline headers on trade me

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Other/auction-337800109.htm

All I know about them is they do hang abit low, so if your car is lowed you may scrape them on some driveways, you will loose most of the subbie rumble, as they are pretty much tuned length.

Ive been scouring the net and other forums for info on them - lots of people say don't touch them, but people who have tried them say they lost a little down low power and gained a lot of extra power when you floor it.

Its recommend that you add some gasket goo to the two bolt flange that joins the up-pipe to the headers as vibrations can cause it to leak after some time. Also heat wrapping the headers is highly recommended.

The other thing is, if your up-pipe is completely stuffed and not spooling the turbo, these headers would feel like a massive power gain lol

tbh for $510+gst (includes headers plus install) I may as well give it ago

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I dont like that huge flexi 'bellows' in the up-pipe, & dont see the point of having both the flexi & the cone ball socket type for the flange which is also flexible with springs on the up pipe,

they look cheap & the mis-matched alignment at the flange is a bit of a concern for me, spend a bit more on some from the states if you can their stainless seems to handle the heat changes & copes well with the flex (something to do with the make up of the steel)

where as the cheaper stuff really only likes to be kept in a lower temp range & then tends to crack.

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Would be good if someone on here who has installed and used them could give there feed back.

Here are more pic's

d23jg4vp.jpg

11sncsel.jpg

1oyzunyr.jpg

ihxspnkm.jpg

This guy installed them on a N/A

3kwbrwr4.jpg

si4h3ieu.jpg

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hey, Nope didnt crack on me and my good friend still has the car on trademe (Listing #: 337289172) Ull see them in one of the pics. Cant comment too much about gains as did other things at the same time. But definitly felt a lil better then standard up top on the other car I fitted some to. As already mentioned do sit pretty low thats for sure!! and as for the douhnut type swivel joint it can be pretty frail just dont overtighten it and they seem to work well. Sound not too bad aswell and yep loose most scoob rumble up top.

And as for woth getting...

Low car- no

cheep fix and upgrade at the same time- yeah why not. (dont use their crappy supplyed turbo and head to mani gaskets tho)

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I know someone with a set, he replaces the gasket between the uppipe and the rest of the headers about twice a month!! They are crap, dont buy them!!

Take a look at the flange on the uppipe, its made of thin PRESSED stainless, compared to the mating flange thick laser cut stainless. The pressed one bends and flex's when it has tension put on it.

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Yeah, think I mite go ahead with them since I'm getting them through my mechanic and hes installing them, ill be covered if anything goes wrong, just take them back and fixed for free - $510+gst headers+install & 12month warranty.

Also its not like ill be taking the car on a race track or dyno, I just drive it and give it the odd boot sometimes.

Now just need to save the moneys, bit hard this time of year >_<

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My opinion is unless the pipework is of a decent wall thickness (ie not 1.6mm thick like most cheap brands) then it WILL crack eventually. I've had to re-weld up numerous stainless headers after they crack and even if I purge weld the pipe they still crack afterwards. If your set on stainless headers, then go for steam pipe, thay may be heavier but will not crack. Another note is if you have an external wastegate hanging off the side of the maifold make sure it is securely braced, cos I'll guarentee that'll be the first place it will crack ( because of the weight of the wastegate bouncing up and down it will put strain on the pipe weld) Also if theres a choice get 316L grade s/s instead of 304L grade s/s. It can take heat shock slightly better than 304L. So if it was me, unless the stainless manifold was made from steam pipe and has bracing I would just stick with good old mild steel ones, they may not look as shiney but in the long run they will cause you less grief. :)

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I was thinking of buying the same headers but didn't. Stock sti headers will do the trick last a lifetime an you know they will fit perfectly to uppipe. I replaced the uppipe myself an its quite easy to do, and im about to do basically the same job again for a 3rd time. Go genuine unless your rebuilding your block I reckon

also if you are looking at power gains I would look into a new downpipe or a catless exhaust. downpipe is probably the cheapest easiest mod todo an will give decent power gains. you could also go boost tap fuel line mods but would leave that for another day

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