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Turbos on Twin Turbo Subaru Legacy/s


gtlegacy

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 gtlegacy said:

hey guyz sorry to interupt but is this common when i get on the secondary my boost goes up and at about 6000rpm drops back about 5psi it does it when my boost set at 20(yes i know that high) drops to 15 and when it set at 15 drops to 10 is that not weird? or is my wastegate blowing open as i get higher up the rpm? how do i fix? lol

Sounds like boost creep and just leveling out

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the turboes are the same size, the difference is in what direction the housings point.

to get them to hold try newer ones like a vf 18/19 combo, these use only one wastegate instead of two like the vf 13/14.

Code 66 seams to be a "anything could be wrong" fault.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I've got a 95 legacy gt twin turbo....pretty sure its got vf13 and vf14 turbos....but which one is on which side?

cheers

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I know this has prob been covered before, but the secondary turbo on my B4 Rsk with the ej208 engine has blown the oil seals and is spraying all through the intercooler, manifold and just about everywhere.

I cant really see the turbo number without pulling the turbo off, would anyone have a idea where to get it fixed.

Best place and best price in Auckland area that wont D**K me around.

I want to eventually convert to single turbo but this will just have to do for the mean time :)

Thanks guys for any help.

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I had a look and it has a Vf31 on the primary which is fine and looks to be a Vf32 as the secondary where the compressor housing is full of clean engine oil. can the secondary be repaired ?

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Is there another possibility of using a older turbo as my secondary on my b4 it has a vf32 current but is stuffed, would a vf 18 or 19 work ok if i couldn't get my hands on a replacement vf32

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I have just found a Vf27 so thats all good, i also wanted to ask about the adjustment rod that opens and closes the control valve for the secondary turbo.

How should it be adjusted, Tight, Loose, just open ?

I had a bit of a play with it but would like to know the best setting

Thanks

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"you can adjust the actuator rod on the ECV to optimise the changeover

start the car cold (unless you have heatproof fingers) and undo the locknuts on the ECV adjustment rod and wind it out until you hear it rattle, then wind it in till the rattle stops and then another complete turn then redo the locknuts.

this allows it to leak a bit of boost on the primary before the changeover actually starts so it reduces it a bit.

you have to play with it a little to get the right amount of leakage or it makes less of a difference or you cant reach full boost on the primary and get poor primary response" Quote ->billsy

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  • 2 weeks later...

On the twin turbo system coming straight off the 2nd turbo is a little one way looking relief/blow off valve and on top of that is a bit of plastic pipe with a nozzle for a vacuum line to connect to.

I some how managed to break the nozzle in trying to remove the vacuum line, would anyone know what it is actually called so i can try and replace it.

Thanks

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