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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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 Guitar_Guy said:

Before and After - Rota Grid 18x8.5 with Sunny 225/40R18 Tyres and rolled guards.

While it looks good, personally I\'d have spent less on the rims and more on the tyres.

It\'ll look much less cool when it understeers into a bank.

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 boon']

[quote name='Guitar_Guy said:

Before and After - Rota Grid 18x8.5 with Sunny 225/40R18 Tyres and rolled guards.

/quote]

While it looks good, personally I\'d have spent less on the rims and more on the tyres.

It\'ll look much less cool when it understeers into a bank.

So much truth. ^^ Cant go past white to set off that wheel/car colour even if it is a little overdone now.

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Took car into wingers for 150k service, came out with BEB failure diagnosis :( At least I caught it early so its still driveable but need to decide what to do, buy cheap runabout and stick subaru in garage for 6 months, or scrounge money and do the rebuild or new block thing.

Sigh.

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 AdamOst said:

Took car into wingers for 150k service, came out with BEB failure diagnosis :( At least I caught it early so its still driveable but need to decide what to do, buy cheap runabout and stick subaru in garage for 6 months, or scrounge money and do the rebuild or new block thing.

Sigh.

Would stop driving it ASAP so it doesn\'t worsen...

Have a look out for a second hand engine?

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 AdamOst said:

Took car into wingers for 150k service, came out with BEB failure diagnosis :( At least I caught it early so its still driveable but need to decide what to do, buy cheap runabout and stick subaru in garage for 6 months, or scrounge money and do the rebuild or new block thing.

Sigh.

More driving you do the worse it hits your pocket. Your heads should still be usable but keep going and they may not be. I vote scrounge money. FFS do finance iirc and they have a bloody cheap forged cdb 2.9k on here at the moment.

Used block is a gamble.

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Yeah not so keen on second hand block, ill either go new v7 shortblock,. or look at getting my current one fixed/rebuilt?

Is there a best thread for this kind of thing for approx costs? clubsub search is awful and google search brings up too many threads. Need a definitive BEB rebuild thread :P

Also I guess I need to find out why its happened, ive been pretty tame with it the last month or so, and only noticed the noise on monday. Its pretty quiet.

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Cost vaires so much and everyones opinions are different. Cheapest way to get into a forged block is like the above one. Buying the bits and paying a reco lad adds up real fast. V7 sti new short block is still up there anyway. Need to look at how many km you have on your timing gear also, add on the head gaskets you need and minimum of fresh timing belt/oil/filter/coolant.

if you know how to read a book you can bolt the heads and timing on and save a fair bit. Dropping the engines easy.

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Spoke to winger and picked up car, apparently they dont sell jdm short blocks? he said he spoke to subaru NZ and they only sell replacement nz/au dm ones and dont recommend it. Oh well hopefully "found showing early signs of big end wear" means its mostly salvagable for a rebuild. Now to decide how far I want to go with it and how much futureproofing.

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 AdamOst said:

Spoke to winger and picked up car, apparently they dont sell jdm short blocks? he said he spoke to subaru NZ and they only sell replacement nz/au dm ones and dont recommend it. Oh well hopefully "found showing early signs of big end wear" means its mostly salvagable for a rebuild. Now to decide how far I want to go with it and how much futureproofing.

The previous owner of my current car brought a v7 sti short block brand new from winger

Will get part number for you

EDIT: Part number 10103AB470K - paid $2500 excl GST in 2011

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 AdamOst said:

Spoke to winger and picked up car, apparently they dont sell jdm short blocks? he said he spoke to subaru NZ and they only sell replacement nz/au dm ones and dont recommend it. Oh well hopefully "found showing early signs of big end wear" means its mostly salvagable for a rebuild. Now to decide how far I want to go with it and how much futureproofing.

Probably will get away with bearings and a crank grind. So factor in $2-300 for bearings, engine reco labour to strip, assemble, resize and skim, etc and may as well do rings while youre in there, then youre almost close enough to buying a reliable 300wkw cdb to justify it. Probably find the pistons will have a lot of skirt wear anyway.

What you have is open and internals only make 230wkw roughly without being on the ragged edge.

And 2.5k is sooo close to 2.9k.

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yeah but that 2.5k is installed and done isnt it? where the 2.9k will still involve money to swap over and install. I dont really plan on having more than 200ish kw anytime soon. Im going in to subtech and petermark autos tomorrow to talk with them and see. Basically if i can have the whole thing done for around 3k or less ill do it now, anything more and ill have to wait. I still have to factor in a baffled sump and tune as well at some point.

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  • General Member

I had mine rebuilt about 4-5 years ago now and it was massively expensive by the time I went forged.

If/when I have to do it all again it would be v7 shortblock with my bolt ons. I am in the same club as you in that low 200kw is probably as far as I will ever go so anything more including my current setup is a bit overkill.

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 AdamOst said:

yeah but that 2.5k is installed and done isnt it? where the 2.9k will still involve money to swap over and install. I dont really plan on having more than 200ish kw anytime soon. Im going in to subtech and petermark autos tomorrow to talk with them and see. Basically if i can have the whole thing done for around 3k or less ill do it now, anything more and ill have to wait. I still have to factor in a baffled sump and tune as well at some point.

2.5k just for the shortblock I would say. Talk to innovate as well.

We could swap blocks johnny...

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 evowrx']

[quote name='AdamOst said:

yeah but that 2.5k is installed and done isnt it? where the 2.9k will still involve money to swap over and install. I dont really plan on having more than 200ish kw anytime soon. Im going in to subtech and petermark autos tomorrow to talk with them and see. Basically if i can have the whole thing done for around 3k or less ill do it now, anything more and ill have to wait. I still have to factor in a baffled sump and tune as well at some point.

/quote]

2.5k just for the shortblock I would say. Talk to innovate as well.

We could swap blocks johnny...

yep correct. 2.5k for a brand new short block. This was in 2011. So unsure what it would cost now
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Oh right, i thought this "So factor in $2-300 for bearings, engine reco labour to strip, assemble, resize and skim, etc and may as well do rings while youre in there," was going to cost 2.5k, forgot about the new shortblock thing. Ill find out my options tomorrow I guess. If I can get a running car to at least factory sapec for ~3k I can afford to do it now, if its more ill park it up, buy a cheap runabout and worry about it in 6months-1yr

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Clean sheeted a wof, wooo, wof man remarked it looks like a jungle gym underneath (many braces)

Then spent afternoon getting drunk and sunburnt installing new suspension

Roo I am sorry it still has about 100mmm ground clearance and the wheels can still travel inside the guard if required

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 AdamOst said:

Oh right, i thought this "So factor in $2-300 for bearings, engine reco labour to strip, assemble, resize and skim, etc and may as well do rings while youre in there," was going to cost 2.5k, forgot about the new shortblock thing. Ill find out my options tomorrow I guess. If I can get a running car to at least factory sapec for ~3k I can afford to do it now, if its more ill park it up, buy a cheap runabout and worry about it in 6months-1yr

Shouldnt be too hard. PM fbssub1 hes a good bugger and bloody cheap.

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