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Dumb Question Thread!


Jambun

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Okay: So here\'s my dilemma; why the hell is it; When I have a Y pipe: it\'s always about the diameter of the pipe too short. V7 Tmic, Supposedly a GDB Y pipe kit; is the fact I\'m using the legacy manifold screwing it?

I don\'t know what\'s going on. Argh!

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 94 Leone said:

Okay: So here\'s my dilemma; why the hell is it; When I have a Y pipe: it\'s always about the diameter of the pipe too short. V7 Tmic, Supposedly a GDB Y pipe kit; is the fact I\'m using the legacy manifold screwing it?

I don\'t know what\'s going on. Argh!

If its the same as v5 Intake Manifold I found putting 2 inches on the end of the Alloy IC pipe fixed my problem. I kept coming up about 10-20 Mill short no matter how hard I twisted and bent things.

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 94 Leone said:

Okay: So here\'s my dilemma; why the hell is it; When I have a Y pipe: it\'s always about the diameter of the pipe too short. V7 Tmic, Supposedly a GDB Y pipe kit; is the fact I\'m using the legacy manifold screwing it?

I don\'t know what\'s going on. Argh!

V7 on manifolds have the throttle body further forward so they need less length on the y pipe. So yes it\'s your legacy manifold causing the issues

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Surely you can just extend the pipe, suuuuurely

The manifold bolts on BUT dunno if the idle control doohickey will still bolt on / throttle body bolt pattern etc

Can you not move the cooler closer a bit as well? Shorter ic -> tb hose

The super simple option is to just extend the hose though

Or OR super easy other option is just find a factory be/bh/v5 or 6 cooler and use that instead, the non sti cooler youre using cant imagine has any real gain compared to the v5/6 one? The v7 sti one is at least mucho largero and would be worth all the mucking around, plus there will be a portion of the v7 one now not being covered by the scoop shroud so is sorta useless anyway

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Am I reading this right? ^^^ Farrrk lad longer joiner pretty simple imo.

From what Ive read and I will know shortly they are different. Mattapo has a how to on adapting throttle body on here.

The v7 wrx one is biggerer than v5/6 I think marky. Without the scoop/shroud to match fuckin waste of tim imo. But you proved otherwise didnt you.

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Nup mines still a big interwarmer hahah

It works... But would work way better if it was shrouded the whole way

More the point is just no point buying a whole new manifold when there\'s two dead simple fixes - longer hose or right cooler for the job

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 Marky said:

Or OR super easy other option is just find a factory be/bh/v5 or 6 cooler and use that instead, the non sti cooler youre using cant imagine has any real gain compared to the v5/6 one? The v7 sti one is at least mucho largero and would be worth all the mucking around, plus there will be a portion of the v7 one now not being covered by the scoop shroud so is sorta useless anyway

Going to the v7 IC from a v5 and putting on a bigger shroud made a massive difference pre tunr it felt much more punchy coming on boost. It also allowed me to hit the limit of the V22 and injectors with the IC nowhere near its limit on the Dyno.

I personally think its worthwhile if you dont want to go FMIC and if you put in a bigger hole in the bonnet/bigger intake shroud.

And I agree with Marky above, why make it harder on yourself?

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 Johnnynz']

[quote name='Marky said:

Or OR super easy other option is just find a factory be/bh/v5 or 6 cooler and use that instead, the non sti cooler youre using cant imagine has any real gain compared to the v5/6 one? The v7 sti one is at least mucho largero and would be worth all the mucking around, plus there will be a portion of the v7 one now not being covered by the scoop shroud so is sorta useless anyway

/quote]

Going to the v7 IC from a v5 and putting on a bigger shroud made a massive difference pre tunr it felt much more punchy coming on boost. It also allowed me to hit the limit of the V22 and injectors with the IC nowhere near its limit on the Dyno.

I personally think its worthwhile if you dont want to go FMIC and if you put in a bigger hole in the bonnet/bigger intake shroud.

And I agree with Marky above, why make it harder on yourself?

I agree with you (also) haha, I\'m using the sti one as well but without the bigger ducting to suit (yet) - the part which IS sealed against the shroud is fine, but there\'s the overhanging parts which aren\'t which get noticably warmer. It\'s an improvement but far from ideal - it does still do a better job than the stocker did even if it was a bastard to fit on (legacy bay is slightly shorter than gdb it seems...)

Does look way better though if nothing else hahaha

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Yeah mines the v7 STI as well, tight fit in a GC8 bay but not too bad.

I was actually just test fitting mine with plans to make it tidier but it all lined up and bolted up so I decided Job done and havent touched it since ha ha.

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what is stock boost on a bg5 auto ?

and what boost will the ecu tolerate with the exhaust and intake freed up ?

didnt seem to tolerate 14 psi so now runnung waste gate pressure on both gates and got about 7 psi on both stages atm .

i figure it should be happy at 11-12 ?

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 lachlan said:

what is stock boost on a bg5 auto ?

and what boost will the ecu tolerate with the exhaust and intake freed up ?

didnt seem to tolerate 14 psi so now runnung waste gate pressure on both gates and got about 7 psi on both stages atm .

i figure it should be happy at 11-12 ?

bro boost cut on bf5 is 14 psi, so just under shud be fine
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Weird. Plenty of folks running round 14-15psi happy as - bg5 and bf5 very different cars

Might be worth doing plugs etc

From memory the auto bg I had was 14psi on secondary / 11 or so primary, was stock other than snorkelectomy and exhaust

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Bilsteins from a BD/BG in my wagon with King lowering springs from a BG. Front is bang on what I want, rear has its ass a little high in the air. Best method to bring the ass down without compromising handling would be to ____? Stock rear struts are knackered.

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