Dumb Question Thread!

[boon]

 QRAF said:

reset did nothing :\'(

tested the alternator and its putting out 0.13 volts when trying to turn it over i thought it would of started off the battery tho and just stopped once it was out of juice

Your alternator is linked pretty much directly to your battery. If you\'re seeing 0.13 volts when you\'re cranking, you\'re measuring in the wrong place. Unless you disconnected the alternator feed cable.

[Roo]

The alternator doesn\'t have any output while cranking so not sure why you\'re measuring that anyway

[QRAF]

good thread to ask the question.

I guess i\'m just thinking out loud as i have no idea what i\'m doing plus i need another set of hands to look at the volt meter as i turn the key.

and i\'m wondering how i\'m going to get to the sparky when my car won\'t even start i don\'t want to try and jump start it as i live on a hill and won\'t be able to just push it back up if it doesn\'t go

[Rosssub]

 QRAF']

good thread to ask the question.

I guess i\'m just thinking out loud as i have no idea what i\'m doing plus i need another set of hands to look at the volt meter as i turn the key.

and i\'m wondering how i\'m going to get to the sparky when my car won\'t even start i don\'t want to try and jump start it as i live on a hill and won\'t be able to just push it back up if it doesn\'t go

Did you check your Crank Sensor Plug Resistance?

Cool so your Sensor is good. Next check the contacts inside the Loom Plug and make sure they\'re clean.

Then with Ignition on, check Resistance of both Loom Plug Terminals.

Edit: Test Resistance of Plug Contact\'s by Earthing onto Engine.

One Plug Contact should show more than 10ohms but less than 100Kohms.

The other Contact should show more than 5ohms.

Anything outside these resistance figures shows a broken wire/contact in that circuit.

Also have you checked/cleaned the Main Loom Plugs near the Battery?

[quote name='Rosssub said:

Check the Main Loom Plugs near the Battery too, make sure they\'re clean and tight.

You need to remove your Window Washer Bottle/Reservoir to get to them.

img]http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/full/291341993.jpg[/img]

[Rosssub]

 QRAF said:

good thread to ask the question.

I guess i\'m just thinking out loud as i have no idea what i\'m doing plus i need another set of hands to look at the volt meter as i turn the key.

and i\'m wondering how i\'m going to get to the sparky when my car won\'t even start i don\'t want to try and jump start it as i live on a hill and won\'t be able to just push it back up if it doesn\'t go

If it helps, you know your Crank Sensor is good. Write down and Post the Resistance/Ohms readings you get. (whatever the Multi Meter Screen says)

With your Ignition on:

-With the Red Multi Meter Probe, on one of the Contacts inside the Sensors Plug/Wiring.

-With the Black Meter Probe on the Engine Block.

What reading do you get?

Then test the other Contact inside the Sensor\'s Plug/Wiring, with Probes the same way.

Post your findings and I can hopefully tell you where your fault is.

Edit: Also if it wont start itself, or start with Jumper Cables. Then Crash Starting/Tow Starting wont help.

[Rosssub]

But whatever readings you get, chances are its just a dirty contact somewhere. Either in the Sensor Plug itself, or in the Main Loom Plugs near the Battery, or your ECU\'s Plug contacts are corroded.

I\'m bored with a Crank Sensor in my hand and an Engine in pieces behind me (on the kitchen table). Looking at the Wiring and bench testing this Crank Sensor.

It only has 2 Wires, one feed from the ECU and one Return Signal to the ECU. The Crank Sensor is Earthed to the Block through the Sensor itself. That\'s why the Sensor has a Steel Shaft and Both the Crank and Cam Sensors are Mounted into Solid Alloy. So if your bored and read this to the end, and your Sensor is Dirty/Corroded/Oiled it can\'t earth at all.

So give your Sensor\'s Steel Section a Light Sand with some Fine Paper or a Scotch Pad then try starting it?

[sobanoodle]

Man I admire your knowledge, honestly.

[Rosssub]

 sobanoodle said:

Man I admire your knowledge, honestly.

Thanks Man. I\'m just plastering my findings as I learn myself really.

[QRAF]

ok will try the meter into the sensors tonight and get back to you.

you don\'t think it could be the coil pack? as it getting no spark? or is that linked to the cam sensor.

[Rosssub]

 QRAF said:

ok will try the meter into the sensors tonight and get back to you.

you don\'t think it could be the coil pack? as it getting no spark? or is that linked to the cam sensor.

Yeah your Crank Sensor Fault is killing Spark.

Edit: Clean the Steel part of the Sensor up too so it can Earth properly.

[Johnnynz]

V6 STI forged internals from factory... Yay or nay?

I had one apart a while back and was shown the cast marks on the pistons by someone who knows what there on about. Was I pulling apart a dud or what?

[Roo]

Didn\'t think they were?

[Johnnynz]

Well neither did I, and what I saw seems to have me being right. But I have someone arguing to the death with me and I am always open to the fact I might be wrong.

Hoping someone might have had another open in person...

[Johnnynz]

I have seen that thread on NASIOC, its a goodie and I have it bookmarked for a few reasons tbh.

I have seen v7 STI Pistons and you can see the difference to a cast piston. The problem with U.S. stuff is they didnt get turbos pre v7 (pretty sure thats right) so most of there info to start at v7.

I was kind of hoping someone might have had one apart and could confirm but its all good.

[newsuba]

 Johnnynz said:

V6 STI forged internals from factory... Yay or nay?

I had one apart a while back and was shown the cast marks on the pistons by someone who knows what there on about. Was I pulling apart a dud or what?

YAY !

;D

http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/722814-has-a-v6-sti-got-forged-pistons.html

Specifically

 

Right you lot - pin your ears back

STi limited editions from 1994 quite often have Subaru brand forged pistons fitted. This may be where the " option " tag has come from, but it may also be that they originally had forged, but have had a rebuild at sometime/ somewhere and the wrong pistons were fitted then. It is a bit too far back in time to be definite about that.

Sti vers 2 RA has the Subaru produced forged pistons fitted as standard MOST Vers 2 RA have have Closed deck block [ let\'s not go there for the minute ]

Then all STI and STi RA up to Vers 7 [ Bug eye ] have Subaru Forged pistons as standard.

Blob eye & Hawkeye [ & EJ257 ] have hyperEutectic [ usually spelt bullsh*t ] pistons fitted - which are an extremely good product for a manufacturer to use - but totally crap for any sort of performance engine.

The Subaru forged type look similar to a cast piston in shape and design and do not at all look like the billet types that you get from: Cosworth, Omega, Mahle CP, Ross, Wiseco, Wossner, Jun [ cosworth] et al. <<< this may explain what you saw ?

Cleared that up then ?

David APi

Agents for:

Simtek, the most exciting new Ecu for years

Buddy Club exhausts

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Eibach suspension

Hybrid front mount intercooler kits

AP Racing brakes and clutches

And of course; the well known APi Performance Exedy organic clutch

www.apiengines.com

01926 614333

[Johnnynz]

But that kinda confuses me more... Answers the v6 question I guess but that same post says v2 STI got forged pistons which I thought it was generally accepted nothing pre v7 (6 now I guess) got forged from the factory...

I hate Subarus.

I am seriously considering buying some busted engines just to pull them apart and take a shit ton of photos for future reference and learning.

[Roo]

I was always under the impression my v3 sti had original forged pistons?

[ADIKT]

I thought the v3-6 had forged and v7 sti had semi forged

[Johnnynz]

v7 STI certainly looked forged, no sign of casting marks I could see on the ones I had. The whole semi forged thing shits me a bit because it seems to be something someone (Subaru maybe?) made up. Its either forged or its cast and "Semi forged" appears to be the coating thing the post Bugeye STI Pistons got.

Hypereutectic pistons is what they are according to Newsubas link.

[newsuba]

I always thought it was post-v7 that got non-forged pistons.

???

[ADIKT]

 newsuba said:

I always thought it was post-v7 that got non-forged pistons.

???

me too

[Johnnynz]

From what I have read its pretty well accepted v7 STI got forged pistons and the ones I had looked to be forged.

V7 and after theres a ton more info out there mainly out of the U.S. and it seems post v7 STI they got that hyprwhatevamagig process that people call semi forged. There is/was a massive thread on NASIOC about it with a bunch of comparison pics and a few guys questioning Subaru USA directly with Subaru generally ducking the question.

From what I can make out thats where the whole semi forged thing comes from. But tbh I am confused as all hell and everyone with a STI wants to claim forged internals I am over arguing it in most places.

[Rosssub]

 ADIKT said:

I thought the v3-6 had forged and v7 sti had semi forged

STI Forged V3-6. V7 Semi Forged/Hypereurectic - Hypereutectic - hyprwhatevamagig.

V7 STI Piston Head:

[legacy666]

Sorry to but in on your forged/semi-forged discussion guys but I have a quick question. Any tricks to stop centre caps on alloys from rattling.finally figured out what that frickn rattle was!

[Rosssub]

 legacy666 said:

Sorry to but in on your forged/semi-forged discussion guys but I have a quick question. Any tricks to stop centre caps on alloys from rattling.finally figured out what that frickn rattle was!

A smear of Adhesive Gasket Silicone should do it.

Edit: Or if they\'re Clip In Caps, see if the Tabs are bendable to tighten it back up.