Dumb Question Thread!

[tydon]

hmm yeah i suppose i will be using stock ecu and a vf24 for now. just want to have the fabricated side of things sorted so when i upgrade to a tod06 and link ecu only need to swap turbo over etc. motors all out and easily accessable, ive got a stainless steel upipe with the flexi cut out. and a rage 2 1/2 full exhaust with v band clamps. only have a half downpipe with wastegate plumb in flange on it. will get a pic to show better but only need half a downpipe made up to my v band clamp section, exhaust was already setup for twisted turbo

[Andy_Mac]

 iphillipnz said:

Thanks guys!

If I were to say remove the A/C from my vehicle, can I rip out literally everything attached to the air con or for some strange reason is this not advisable?

It would certainly not be advisable having your head nearby when you release the gas, frost bitten noses don't look as awesome as you may think

[Suby Manic]

Hey folks. finally giving my girl the needed upgrades and changing to a walbro fuel pump.

Now this is a slightly confusing area for me as there does appear to be two options to suit my 95 rex the GSS341 and GSS342.

Does anyone know of any differences between these models or are they both as equally suited to my vehicle?

[Rosssub]

GSS342 has inline inlet/outlet, the GSS341 has offset inlet/outlet. GSS342 is the one you want, but they'll both fit:

[BD5_RS]

My dumb question: Tripod style inner CV - what is stopping me getting the shaft out of the joint cup?

I need to change the inner boot. I had slid the old boot to the side and hoped the tripod would just slide out. It didn't. CV joint grease is everywhere so can't see anything - I hadn't cleaned all the grease away in case I got f*%ked off with it and had to reassemble to use the car.

I've already broken my 1/2" power bar trying to undo the hub nut, before deciding I may be able to leave the driveshaft in place. It's late, so I gave up.

Edit: Car details: BP5 GTB, front d/s inner CV.

Edited March 5, 2015 by BD5_RS

[Rosssub]

There's a big circlip inside that needs to be removed before it will come apart.

[Rosssub]

 BD5_RS']My dumb question: Tripod style inner CV - what is stopping me getting the shaft out of the joint cup?

I need to change the inner boot. I had slid the old boot to the side and hoped the tripod would just slide out. It didn't. CV joint grease is everywhere so can't see anything - I hadn't cleaned all the grease away in case I got f*%ked off with it and had to reassemble to use the car.

I've already broken my 1/2" power bar trying to undo the hub nut, before deciding I may be able to leave the driveshaft in place. It's late, so I gave up.

Edit: Car details: BP5 GTB, front d/s inner CV.

[quote name='Rosssub said:

There's a big circlip inside that needs to be removed before it will come apart.

Just reread this and noticed you haven't taken the axle nut off yet, so the whole drive shaft is still fitted. Even with the circlip removed there still probably wont be enough play to disassemble the inner CV.

Definitely easier to remove the whole shaft, if you can get the axle nut off. But either way, to change the inner CV boot you will need to:

Unbolt a sway bar link, then separate the balljoint:

img]http://s25.postimg.org/ggga10kkv/Front_wheel_bearings_018.jpg[/img]

Now the whole strut/hub assembly will swing outwards and turn. Giving enough room to gently pop the driveshaft out of the gear box with a pry bar/lever. Being careful not to twist the driveshaft as you slide it out of the gearbox, because you can damage the oil seal.

Then from there you slide the cv boot back and remove the circlip from inside the outer race (cup):

Now the CV will come apart and you'll find another smaller circlip on the end of the shaft. Remove this smaller circlip and the tripod (roller kit and trunnion) will pull off the shaft:

Now the inner CV boot can slide off to be replaced.

[BD5_RS]

 Rosssub said:

CV joints for dummies

Thanks, that's awesome. I'll have another crack at it tonight.

Yes the plan was to get the axle nut off, but it went pear shaped when my Koken bar broke. I guess I'll see how good their lifetime warranty is...

I'm not sure if that axle nut has been off in it's 240,000km + life, and when I replaced the lower ball joint on the other side it was rusted into the hub, so who knows how much torque it'll take to crack it? I had hoped to borrow a workmate's 3/4" set, but it was out of town.

Last night I had ended up removing the shock (it's due an alignment anyway) and unbolting sway bar link to try and get enough movement without touching that bottom ball joint. I'll confess I was was hoping to leave the inner joint in the gearbox and just drop the tripod out, unclip it and get the boot on and reassemble - it's only been split for a week and no crud has made it in.

I'll see how it goes and report back.

Thanks again for the info!

Edited March 6, 2015 by BD5_RS

[BD5_RS]

Broken parts pic for laughs.

[boon]

That's impressive. Did you have a jack handle on it or something?

I was removing head bolts from a B16 a little while ago, took the breaker bar + a long ring spanner on the end of it to shift them, was putting a nice bow in the breaker bar before the bolts came loose.

[BD5_RS]

I had a 40cm pipe over it (top tube from a Raleigh 20), with 10-15cm of that sitting over the bar handle. My calcs reckon about 400nm of force?

The pin sheared off then immediately bent the side of it. They're supposedly designed so that the drive piece twists and breaks, which I've done a to 3/8" bar once before.

[ADIKT]

A friends 32 GTR has developed a miss at low revs/idle - where in Auckland is a good place to go for a check up?

He has it booked in at ST Hitec - but 2 weeks away because they are so busy!

[AdamOst]

For stockish power levels, 200wkw max, do I need anything mroe than OEM exedy replacement clutch? I do trackdays, but no interest in drag racing. Or will I need something more like the HD excedy?

[Guest]

 AdamOst said:

For stockish power levels, 200wkw max, do I need anything mroe than OEM exedy replacement clutch? I do trackdays, but no interest in drag racing. Or will I need something more like the HD excedy?

Stock genuine sti replacement works for me was 227wkw now ej257 with more nm. Cheaper than the exedy hd too just buy the release bearing thro autostop.

[AdamOst]

Any idea on cost of the parts or part numbers? mechanics next door to my work quoted ~450inc gst for the labour, sound about right? Ill get them to see what the whole job will cost, i had sorta guess I wouldn't get much change from a grand.. Also might get them to look at the jumping out of 5th gear selector shaft bolt thing as well while its out.

[Guest]

Part numbers in my garage thread somewhere. Might be cheaper thro partsouq. See what subirex would do it for.

[pedro]

$1000-1200 is the going price through a reputable workshop..

$500-550 for exedy clutch suitable for 200wkw..

Be aware that cheaper costs may have no come backs..

[A_J_T]

 evowrx said:

Part numbers in my garage thread somewhere. Might be cheaper thro partsouq. See what subirex would do it for.

30210AA520 Pressure plate

30100aa900 Disk

Is there a specific STI pressure plat with higher clamping or are they all the same?

[Guest]

Those out of my thread dude?

[A_J_T]

Yes sir

[Guest]

Thats the uprated sti pressure plate then.

[A_J_T]

Seems legit, might have to add them two part numbers to my next order. it is the 240mm disk yea and should be good to go on any 5MT

[Guest]

I dont know dont ask me. Its the bigger of the two plates 5mm difference iirc and yep will work on any sub 5mt.

You get that flywheel to me tonight ill grind it for free tomorrow... 3 2 1 go.

[AdamOst]

Ok so I order those 2 parts then? sweet.

[Guest]

Then get spigot and release thro autostop.