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Dumb Question Thread!


Jambun

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 sobanoodle said:

Does this bleeding procedure (found on nasioc) sound right? Anything to add?

 
Add coolant mix back into the rad. I followed the [50:50 Subaru coolant: distilled water] mix plus the Subaru coolant additive since I\'m in full on winter. I need the antifreeze :tdown:.

- Leave both radiator caps off.

- Pour coolant mix slowly into radiator slowing using a funnel (the slower you go, less air bubbles from bubbling).

- While doing this, squeeze the top radiator hose which will also burp the system a bit while pouring.

- When the radiator is full (the Koyo took about 7L+), fill the coolant reservoir.

Step 13 -

Burp the system. With the caps off, start the car.

- The coolant will bubble and "burp" and foam which is what you want since the air is being purged from the system.

- Revving the motor to 2k was also recommended from the Subaru service manual and forum threads.

Step 14 -

Once the system is burped, add coolant to the radiator and the reservoir so that they\'re both full.

Step 15 -

Reinstall upper radiator supports

Have got a better method

Take radiator cap/s off.

take top radiator hose off.

Use this as a filler to jug in anti freeze to radiator (if no radiator cap on radiator.

Swap top hose over so to use as filler into engine (garden hose)

refit top radiator hose. top up at highest "radiator cap" off (if two)

Start engine run til up to temp (and for at least 1/2 hr with highest cap off (if two) topping up when necesary (in order to bleed/drive air out of system and allow it to escape)

fill expansion bottle to full mark, re fit "radiator cap", stop engine.

recheck at top "radiator cap" when cool.

keep rechecking after each cooldown after each run until stays full.

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 Stodart']

Does this bleeding procedure (found on nasioc) sound right? Anything to add?

 
Add coolant mix back into the rad. I followed the [50:50 Subaru coolant: distilled water] mix plus the Subaru coolant additive since I\'m in full on winter. I need the antifreeze :tdown:.

- Leave both radiator caps off.

- Pour coolant mix slowly into radiator slowing using a funnel (the slower you go, less air bubbles from bubbling).

- While doing this, squeeze the top radiator hose which will also burp the system a bit while pouring.

- When the radiator is full (the Koyo took about 7L+), fill the coolant reservoir.

Step 13 -

Burp the system. With the caps off, start the car.

- The coolant will bubble and "burp" and foam which is what you want since the air is being purged from the system.

- Revving the motor to 2k was also recommended from the Subaru service manual and forum threads.

Step 14 -

Once the system is burped, add coolant to the radiator and the reservoir so that they\'re both full.

Step 15 -

Reinstall upper radiator supports

Have got a better method

Take radiator cap/s off.

take top radiator hose off.

Use this as a filler to jug in anti freeze to radiator (if no radiator cap on radiator.

Swap top hose over so to use as filler into engine (garden hose)

refit top radiator hose. top up at highest radiator cap off(if two)

Start engine run til up to temp (and for at least 1/2 hr with highest cap off (if two) topping up when necesary (in order to bleed/drive air out of system and allow it to escape)

fill expansion bottle to full mark, re fit "radiator cap", stop engine.

recheck at "radiator cap" when cool.

keep rechecking after each cooldown after each run until stays full.

[quote name='Roo said:

Just to add to that method, turn the heater to full hot

Did exactly that ;) (another tick on my "can do" list added :D)

BTW why do you need to turn the heater on?

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 Roo said:

Lets coolant through the heater core to remove all doubt that there could be an air bubble inside it that could get missed when bleeding the system

I see, cheers!

One more question: how do fans work? I mean what sort of algorithm? No fans on, one side on, both sides on depending on temperature?

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 Roo said:

Lets coolant through the heater core to remove all doubt that there could be an air bubble inside it that could get missed when bleeding the system

This shouldn\'t really matter (l used to think and do this also)

as heating controls operate flaps that direct airflow thru heater core or bypass it. the water flow thru heater core is continuous.

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I see, few vehicles (older ones mainly) have a tap to control flow which is why I was taught to do that.

Can also help anyway with the heater going you can see that the engine coolant is warming up steadily before the thermostat is due to open too

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 Roo said:

I see, few vehicles (older ones mainly) have a tap to control flow which is why I was taught to do that.

Can also help anyway with the heater going you can see that the engine coolant is warming up steadily before the thermostat is due to open too

Yeah for sure, seen older vehicles with cable controls operating a valve on pipe to heater core at fire wall. and l did that way too, so yeah a good idea to do it ; anyway like you said so know that heater working/ ok /bled.

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 sobanoodle said:

Would poorly done bleeding cause "gurgling" sound on acceleration? My old car did that. :D

On an older Subaru this is almost always a blocked heater core, talking to my mechanic.

It\'s why they behave a bit oddly temperature wise as the heater core provides the flow that normally causes the thermostat to open.

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For what it\'s worth I just use the method of a coke bottle cut in half, full of water, with the lid bit jammed into the top tank thingy and then leave it to idle for a while with the car parked facing up a hill or driven onto some blocks at the front

Works perfect every time, just makes a bit of a mess as it gurgles and bubbles out the coke bottle but saves me having to worry about topping it up etc for a few days

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