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I didn't do it today, but quite a few months ago lol. I finally figured out my shutdown issue on my Type RA. The issue was it would start fine, run perfectly during normal even spirited driving. When I'd go on track at say manfield, and start giving it some absolute spanking, about half track point the car would completely shutdown. I'd have to key off, and then key back on and away we'd go again. It was repeatable and I couldn't figure it out for the life of me while at the track. So, replaced the battery because A. it was old AF and dying easily. Thought it resolved issue up until a couple months later I was at a gymkhana event here in hastings and it died under, again, heavy load, but this time the battery light was now coming on. Sure as heck, I checked the voltage output on the alternator and I am getting bubkiss. Quickly dip home, pull out a crappy old looking spare alternator I had, remove the old alternator, and the terminal for the positive is absolutely COOKED, with the nut literally welded itself to the alternator... Slap this new alternator on, and rush back to do the last runs and fixed. Now to just do a cambelt/idler change as these are due.

Yup got mine off trademe in the end from Ledbits2012 Rang around lots of places and no-one seemed to know what the part was, infact im noticing more and more that parts businesses have less and less on hand knowledge and rely totaly on their what their computer tells them then i spoke to the guy at Ledbits and he pretty much said alot of the o2 sensors will work as they are all pretty similar I got a 3plug one that worked fine with my ecu but the plug didnt match so i just cut and soldiered my old plug to it and its been mint since Flew through a WOF yesterday - man i love this Legacy as its in such good nick getting wofs isnt a headache and i must say I LOVE the tein suspension, I dont even have to slow down for speed bumps, a great ride and very high quality suspension BUT I need to source a TPS (A22-000R25) was hoping to find one locally but nothing so far >_ <

Last year, a friend Mitch and I went halvsies in a 1999 Impreza SRX with the idea of beating it on the track when he's up from Queenstown and I'd personally use it a hack to take tramping and throw the bike in. Recently I've started to tidy it up a little: I think some new struts all round, 16" wheels with some better rubber and if I can some GTB sway bars, it will be a very fun little car, with no power

Minor updates test fitted the headlight covers, awaiting last of the parts to land then off to panel & paint.....Finally

Wellity wellity wellity....since I can never let anything go, I've finally achieved my ultimate goal now that technology has caught up with my vision. Probably not a thing for people these days with Android head-units being a dime a dozen, but here's what the breakdown of what a modern carputer is for me now and why I've gone this way (mainly just enjoying a project and being a cheap bastard): - Raspberry Pi 5 running Lineage OS 21 (Android 15), overclocked to 2900Mhz - Raspberry Pi active cooler - Raspberry Pi NVME Hat with 512GB drive - USB/HDMI 7" touchscreen, silicone sealed into factory double-din spot - USB GPS receiver - USB DAC with optical output to DSP - Power control is via a bit of dedicated hardware (probably detailed earlier in the thread) which provides power on/off control with ignition sensing, also tells the Pi to cleanly shutdown via USB - A nifty gadget I found that provides USB signal pass-through from source to sink, whilst also injecting fast-charge USB-C power to my phone So, what this lets me do is basically have the full-blown unrestricted Android experience in my car with the main benefits: - Offline maps and navigation via google maps - Playback of any and all media up to the limits of the storage capacity via VLC, BS Player, Plex, etc (choose your favourite), and maintaining great quality to the sound system via a fully digital/optical signal path directly into my DSP - Android Auto via the "Headunit Reloaded" app (wireless function is buggy as hell but wired is solid, and with the gadget I mentioned above, I get fast-charging anyways). There is also a standalone function, so Android Auto without a phone if you wanted to. - Anything else is just limited by my imagination, but main focus was fully offline and standalone media playback and mapping functions Few learnings/additional tweaks: - Since I've been collecting music videos etc for years, my collection contains a wide range of resolutions/codecs, not all of which are guaranteed to be supported on low-powered platforms (especially modern 4K60 AV1 files). I run a service on my server that detects file additions to my media libraries (relevent to the carputer) and copies/converts these to 1080p30 HEVC/H265 which the Pi5 can process on GPU, these then get transferred to a "Carputer media" folder that gets automatically synced over wifi to the carputer (installed a WAP in the garage to facilitate this). - Audio files just get synced directly in the same way So yeah, pretty much it really...

It will be the width. GC8's don't like 225 wide tyres without rolling gaurds. Even though rolling diameter is the same due to offset the wheel has moved 7mm further out and then the tyre has gained another 10mm in width to the outside. Go to a 215 tyre and it will likely be fine. If you have lowered suspension this will make gaurd rubbing even worse. I am running 215/45R17 tyres on ET53 wheels and no rubbing at all. The 22B also has HUGE gaurds compared to a stock GC8, making room for the extra width.

Ok, Success! The BG5 Teins are perfect - i put new top mounts on them and thoroughly cleaned out the threads on the adjustment part, set them to half way on the dampers and wow its a night and day different to the GC8 shock&spring combo, can go over speed bumps without the loud t hump from the front and can turn corners hard without bottoming out the shock (wheel used to rub the inner body ) Had to make some brackets for the ABS line Overall the the springs are set a tad low from whoever owned them last so ill wind them up next time i get a chance So in total ive spent close to $2000 trying to lower the front without going fully adjustable End result is i ended up going fully adjustable haha - but learned alot about spring rates and shock dampening ! Ill go back and update my post where I said GC8 shocks and springs fit in a BC5 - they fit yes, but - they suck because they are too weak for the BC5

Yeah at first I thought they had just worn out being made of cardboard and foam - but upon removing them they appeared fine with no noticeable damage, bench tested him to no avail, both didn’t respond to a direct input voltage even after refreshing the solder The factory head unit has tape and a cdplayer and it also has an aux input! (First factory bc5 stereo I’ve seen with an aux) So no need to update it, keeps it era correct - even the aerial goes up and down 😎

Finally cut out big hole in fenders behind the front wheel vents for more air flow. Just used a nibbler for the bulk and Dremel to finish and round the edges. One side is primed and painted in matched colour the other side is waiting on more parking space to dremel and paint. https://www.jaycar.co.nz/nibbling-tool/p/TH1768 other people have done this ages ago. The 5 hole idea works and is far quicker but the lowest hole won’t flow as the plastic cover gets in the way. Better to enlarge the bigger factory oval than make the lowest hole… https://www.iwsti.com/threads/fender-rear-engine-vent-optimizing-performance.191959/page-8?post_id=3207454#post-3207454 edit… the most important thing when making holes or cutout other than don’t cut the chassis and wiring is… leave the 5-10mm around any bend or crease in the metal so it has some strength left.

Well not today (and sure as hell not in one day), but playing catchup: Does replacing all driveline/transmission/engine bushings/mounts with Group N STI, delicious pink pillow-ball STI lateral links and trailing arms, Ohlins Road & Track coilovers count?

I checked the car park for any fresh oil patches.

When I got my BBS wheels they came with 225/45-17 Goodyear F1's - an absolutely awful tyre, in a totally wrong size for a GC8. Rub-dub-dub and raised the overall gearing enough to take the edge off performance. Switched to 215/45 tyres - much better response and grip. 215/40-17 was even better, lowered the gearing enough to make the car feel like it had an RA

Found a set of BG5 Tein front struts! Getting so hard to find parts for these old cars fingers crossed they fit the Bc5 and they are better suited for the weight than the gc8 springs

Inspired by all the great looking Outback's, I had to have a go myself. Full Legacy swap, with struts/springs front and rear, lower front control arm rear stud and backing plate, rear trailing arm spacer, steering knuckle, and removed front and rear subframe spacers. Unfortunately the pick-a-part rear struts are totally shagged, so i'll need to replace those, but otherwise dives and handles a treat. Sitting on TBC Jet 18x8.5 45p with 225x40x18 pilot sport 5's. I would have preferred 35p offset, but got them second hand for a good price, so can't complain.

Order red tail light tint. Clear tail lights with a dark coloured car isn’t the best look. Leaving the indicator answer reverse clear. though may tint indicator orange later.

Not that bad really. Leaking schraders and valves in general aren't exactly uncommon in refrigeration and a decent cap with a new seal or just thread tape is often the solution. The plastic caps on these may not seal perfectly well with age as they can become brittle but worth a shot putting a new viton O-ring into it to keep the cool juice where it needs to stay

Bug: Singlescroll / Subi rumble - great sound An acquired taste, looks wise More lag - but also more of a hit in your face of boost (slower than a blob) Cheaper Blob Twinscrool / no rumble - tuned sound, but can also sound pretty brutal with a the right exhaust (preference really) Look way better IMO. v9 blobs are probably the nicest looking subi Way faster spool compared to the blobs. Absolute joy to drive on the street when tuned. Still one of my favourite cars of all time More expensive Probably will hold their value more than a bug

Update to this - the stock GC8 WRX springs arent suitable for being in a shock fitting to a BC5, its just too weak a spring They fit physically but it has been really annoying me lately, if i corner even semi hard the extra weight on the front of the BC (compared to the WRX) is too much for the WRX spring rates, the tyres catch the inner guard, it passed another WOF check but it has really annoyed me on the drivability of the car which is what i was aiming for seeing as though i was so seldom able to drive my last BC , i just wanted to get this one driving stockish normalish so i could get WOFs and drive the bloody thing Spent saturday trying to install stock BL5 Bilstiens on the front because one of my mates said they fit - WRONG- arg - idiot Top hats dont work and i cant make the top hat swap work Ive talked with various lowering spring suppliers and they just dont make springs for BC5 anymore : ' ( I was trying to avoid getting adjustables to save money on a cert - but of course ive spent nearly 2 grand on various springs/shock setups/top hats / bushes/ wheel alignments omfg i should have just got a set of BC golds and got a cert Anyway - writing this incase someone sees it so they can save money and not make this mistake

Have made some esp32 gauges and displays for my car. does anyone want something like this or have any suggestions? All these are setup over wifi with webpage to enter settings. It’s pretty basic so far but could add presets to auto configure for different generations. Tire pressure over Bluetooth round display that you turn outer ring to see different pressure units, and push to turn off display. It comes back on for new alerts etc. Can add sensor ID and working on a discovery feature. I theory the 2012 or newer cars could have this canbus the data to the OEM screen. The older cars have a physical wire to the dash lamp. RPM bar display 16-40 led F1 style. Has rpm limits and flash rate etc settings. Currently only canbus but could do pulse counting so works with older rpm signal. DCCD display. Currently no settings just smart watch screen that can show auto with +- manual and the diff lock level. Graphics need a lot of work. canbus keypad. There is a opencan version online so could be auto configured by most aftermarket ecu brands. Or web page where set canbus id and then ecu can receive messages when buttons are pressed. Could also receive messages from ecu to turn on/off illumination behind keys, or set colour. could retrofit a LCD to old cluster so can display more data as well as the check lights so stays WOF compliant.

While there are some canbus messages ID decoded I haven’t found a great one. Looking for: TPMS tire pressure Intake pressure DCCD g force sensors etc Currently trying to build a TPMS canbus to bluetooth aftermarket sensors. Have managed to write the code to detect and read sensors now I understand how they work. Going to try and make the code user friendly so anyone can buy and pair sensors and connect them to car. Just a little LCD on a hide away box that triggers the OEM dash light or the dash top screen. edit/update built a Bluetooth TPMS that displays the pressure on a round lcd display. Values are next to each tire on top down view of blue 22B. can scroll through PSI Bar etc and also see voltage and temp of tires.

All tested and working live plugged into my car. DCCD with small lcd 3x7cm screen showing status similar to dash. Currently not fancy build, just obd2 cable with circuit board cable tied to it. Can customise it to look like any aftermarket dash or OEM eg even animations. some ideas…

The chassis code tells what transmission it had, which comes up anywhere they enter a plate like WOF etc. the text on the reg label isn’t worth worrying about. You’ll also need radiator if you don’t want of to notice, the oil cooler at the bottom is a dead giveaway. certs are easy if you call the cert place first and ask what you need to document first. They have some odd rules that don’t apply to modern cars vs the classics they write them for.

By this logic you should have to go for a cert if you take your wheels off or put new brake pads in. Which the LVVTA once actually insinuated in a particularly dented Facebook post about brake rotors needing to be certed in case you installed the wrong size ones (???). Honestly they do my f***ing head in and I hope they read this, yes without them it would be very very hard (actually I don't know, would it?) to modify cars and they provide a framework for us to do that, but some times it's completely cooked. Literally from the NZ Car Construction Manual: And it's just bulls***, over the years they've had some spectacularly useless rules that have taken years to peel back and cost modifiers thousands of dollars to comply with stupid requirements that, if someone engaged their brain for about 20 minutes, wouldn't have made it past the draft stage. When was the last time you heard of a driveshaft hoop that did f*** all on a modified JDM car with less than about 800hp? The entire organisation was built around the concept of bearded hotrodders (who are wonderful, btw) stick welding bits of car together in their shed, not the "modern" version of car modding which is basically Lego except larger, dirtier, and generally undertaken by people with lower IQs. EDIT: Apologies OP for derailing your thread. I guess the sparknotes is "be prepared for some bizarre obscure cert requirement".

At that point it's not a shift light, it's a bar-graph colour-coded tachometer.

Partsouq is but shipping is ok amayama has a depot here they ship from for fixed costs. amayama have Japan as supplier and also seem to use supplier who is behind partsouq for UAE listed stock. I use both, as do a lot of other owners. Can’t say have had or heard any complaints.

Well bump… Yet again great service and help for Subtech.

@Andy_Mac Looking at 6MT manual DCCD has only 2 data points. First byte is counter that loops 0 to FF so ignored From service manual… DCCD mode 0 manual or 1 auto 1 auto - 2 auto (defaults back to this when set to manual mode) 3 auto + This is 2nd byte hex during normal operation observed values are 21 manual 29 auto 2a auto - 2b auto + DCCD torque distribution 0 when in auto mode 1 free 2 3 4 5 6 lock This is 3rd byte hex during normal operation observed values are 0 when auto 8 (bit 4) plus above level -1 when manual eg 8 to D hex On another page it states in error state the dash alternates from displaying 1 to 6 every second eg 1Hz but it doesn’t state if that’s sent from the DCCD controller as messages with 1 and 6 or it just sends an single error message and the dash then blinks that sequence. Only way to tell would be make DCCD have and error and then look at the messages. Canbus can have 8 bytes in a message the this uses only 2 so it can have error or operational state in the other 6 bytes. I found someone had already decoded it and posted publicly so if your dash can do canbus you can configure it with the below…. ID 0x430 BYTE 1 is Differential Control Bit 3 = 1 “Auto” , 0 “Manual” Bit 0/1 = 11 is “+” , 10 is “-” , 01 “no change” , 01 also in Manual /automatic mode BYTE 2 is Differential Control level Bit0,1,2 000 – 1 level 001 – 2 level 010 – 3 level 011 – 4 level 100 – 5 level 101 – 6 level When “AUTO” select Diff control level is always 000 Looking at manual vs decoded there is a difference in lock and free level. Manual has 0-6 and the decoded has 0-5 which could just be a typo in the post.

Nothing Subaru as of the past 4 years? Other than Put a Battery in it and move it to mow the lawns still needs a head gasket : still have a Spare V4 Motor on a Pallet in my Shop Instead : I put a Battery into the Red car and Drove it to Local Car Club Meeting last night 😎 Auto-X's coming up so now I have motivation to fix that!

Rally muds flaps, fog lights and roof vent!

Don’t let your dreams be dreams Do it

Rust removal, luckily only superficial, but now I have to paint things. While putting the sound deadening in the roof I found a rusty area. It’s right near the back quarter window unjust before the hatch inner support. It’s started in the roof sheet and moved down to the seam of the car. Main blistered point was on roof 12x15mm, but after scraping it a whole lot and adding rust converter, it’s actually not gone anywhere and the seam rust was only the very outer edge over 6cm. The metal is pitted but not very deep. Originally I was thinking it was a leak under the rails but now just that it was spatter from a spot weld that didn’t get clean and sealed. That amount of blistering in a 90’s car would have been nearly through the metal. So not only does higher strength steel help crash safety it slows rust a whole lot. Having now scraped the outside area under the roof rails a near the back where the seam sticks through. There is rust (surface only) under the very end. While is close to the inside rust it’s too minor and too far back to be the cause. Mainly where the ends are coated in sealant as the go over the end and down the hatch. A 5-7mm area under the sealant was the worst I found and that was on the other side. Now to leave it overnight to make sure all the converter is done. Tomorrow is paint day. I’m bad at painting, and I got grey primer as was only for the inside initially. But the outside bits are under the rails and 20mm down the back seam that is hidden by the hatch and wing.

Wired cruise control into my 07 BP, then carried on drive line swapping my 02 BH, fit new diff axle seals and o rings, re assembled rh front hub, stripped the threads on my brembo caliper 🙃 and re fit the starter.

Oh man I can't see this now

225/45/17 is 100% fine on a gc8 with the correct wheel offset, ride height and some mild guard rolling. 225/45/16 is 200% fine.

And conversely if you have an R/RA gearbox then going to 215/40 can be annoyingly short if you ever have to drive long distances on a highway. Lots of people here have run 225s on GC/GF platforms in competition so it wearing your diffs is probably the last thing you need to worry about. Rubbing on the guards gets old quickly though!

Went to tension the aircon belt due to it being a little squeaky, and the f***ing plastic adjuster thing split. At least my local dealer had one in stock, and at a very reasonable price. Always makes me laugh how variable the pricing can be on random little OEM bits.

https://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/ has clear codes process in the post.

Use partsouq with your chassis number as the search, don’t even need to log in. under engine cooling section, there will be exhaust section, and then tap on the short number for sensor and it’ll popup the Subaru part number and any substitutes. The Subaru part numbers seem to match Denso You can aliexpress a part number as they list Subaru part numbers Or generic search https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Denso-o2-sensor.html

If all 4 are the same diameter there is no diff issue. Only the speedo will read out by the increase or decrease in diameter. wider wheels when turned travel inwards towards the frame more, so can rub. Or the rear bumper mounts where it connects to the wheel arch can rub too.

Fitted paddle shifter assembly to steering column. T30 torx approx 6 ft-lb for airbag 17mm hex approx 34ft-lb for steering wheel the frame fits over the clock spring and needs 3 new fat screws, two will be hidden behind the wheel, the lower middle goes right next to the steering column lower shroud screw. The upper two mounts are shared with the wipers. So you just have to undo them slide the paddles into place and refit those upper screw into the nuts welded to the existing wipe mounts. while there also added cruise control and audio buttons since they need the back plastic cover off to get to the screws. turns out my car though one of the earliest GRBs it has the alloy steering wheel frame mounting point for the later phone and s# buttons. It also has an unused lower connector on the clock spring so that maybe for those buttons. Having the s# button from legacy maybe a fun option. i think the si-drive buttons are connected to the dash which then sends canbus to ecu. That would make a second wheel to dash button very simple and likely why it’s an option on the legacy.

Removed the 35year old front door speakers that finally gave up (first time I’ve experienced a speakers quiet end of life) and replaced them with some basic JVC equivalents - sounds fine - installed a band expander so I can finally stop listening to Mai fm 😂. factory head unit still working! 😎 it’s the little things working fine that does it for me now, this BC5 is 35years old and everything works 🥳 and it flies through wofs - a whole different world compared to 10years of my last BC5

GR is better in every way than the previous generation. Standard seats are comfortable, recaro option are little more firm and have better lateral support. They aren’t like the GC era curved ones though. the stock seats, like most unzip the covers at the back and you can add more foam or tighten or loosen the hooks between the frame and the spring net. This is true for most cars. door pillars make the chassis way more rigid. early pre face lift GR have higher and softer suspension. VA doesn’t offer much other than more tech gadgets like lane assist etc. GR key fobs cost way too much and the 2.0 JDM cars need a code from Japan to program. . there are plenty of wrecked part cars, and engine parts are just EJ so that’s not any issue. 2 vs 2.5 biggest difference is if you want rumble from 2.5 or fast turbo spool in the 2.

fitted blacked out side/wing mirror LED indicators. managed to unclip the covers and fit without removing the glass. need a little double sided tape or blutack to hold the 3mm wide foam weather seal that isn’t included, but pealed off from OEM ones. the plug pins are about 1/4 the width of factory so need to be aligned carefully. One sat perfectly, one was slightly out after clipping back, but that mirror has been bashed about before so maybe not the indicators fault. fits the 2007-2010 Impreza STI. use the part numbers listed and check against your chassis number in partsouq to see if they fit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002266002926.html $15 plus gst

Blob gets DCCD too if you care about that. V9 Blob also gets 5x114.3 PCD for far better rim options, slightly wider track (I'm pretty sure anyway) and a slightly more modern interior.

If you're lucky it will just be the valve core, which, assuming it's definitely a standard Schrader valve, will be straightforward to replace (other than all your refrigerant escaping while you do it). If that doesn't solve it, you have to do the whole hose, the valve is an integral part of it. There should be oodles of them at Pickapart/your local wrecker, although finding one that hasn't been butchered while someone was getting at another part might be the harder part.

No, pretty sure all EFR turbos can come with IWG (single or twin scroll). I live in Northland so no 98 for me 🙅‍♂️

Got a genome installed New cam sensor installed, hoping it starts after some heat soak now And hoping the misfire up hill has gone

Dropped in a group N transmission mount, after a test drive I wish it had come with it from new.

So I thought my next car would def be an EV/hybrid, but I guess I couldn't do it.. Picked her up this week. Yeah you cannot order any 6Spd manual WRX from Subaru anymore.. Luckily they had this one.

Replaced the A/C compressor in the RSK, too hot in Florida to go without... Then cleaned her up... Then shuffled the all Subie's around the garage...