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Dumb Question Thread!


Jambun

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 Marky said:
I'd assume VF26/7, I think only rev d gets the VF3X turbos - 31 & 32 is auto rev d, 32 & 33 is manual?

Same as how auto / manual rev a/b have vf 25 or 26 primary for man or auto

There used to be a link in the FAQ for this but it is deaded

Thanks, yeah used to be somewhere.. cannot find it now and wouldn't trust USDM folks :D

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 Marky said:
Might be wrong, I googled it and found err, clubsub

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?4683-turbos-on-twin-turbo/page4

Short answer: f knows spose it's only relevant depending on what the situation is - if its replacing something blown they all interchange anyway and power wise they're near enough for government work

I am just looking for an induction pipe for someone with a BH5C, a wrecker asked what turbos it has and that they have a pipe for VF31/32.

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Thought about it already, the person doesn't want to spend much.

Boom..

[quote name='B4 2000 said:

afaik, MY02 (RevD) came with VF33/32 and MY01 (RevC) came with VF31/32

Ray, you should have the 33/32

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 Rosssub said:
Those cover plates are no concern really, they are supposed to come off to swap onto new pads. Do both slider bolts move freely? Can you press the pistons in with a little leverage or a clamp?

Had another look today, sliders seem to move fine/ aren't seized at least. Managed to push/press the top piston in however the bottom (or the top with the calliper actually on properly) one doesn't want to move at all even with a clamp (think it might have like 1mm with polygrips prior to the clamp). So I would imagine that's what's causing this light headache.

Edited by Skatieguy
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Yeah will be the cause for sure. Probably easiest to just replace the calliper if you don't want to try rebuilding it. The pistons and seals can be replaced. Hardest part will be removing the stuck piston. Can clamp the moving piston in place, then use the brake pedal to hydraulic the stuck one out. If it still wont move then a grease gun to hydraulic it out, or heat. Then hone cylinders and fit new pistons seals etc.

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so having clutch problems after putting motor back in cant get the pedal to retract it was workign fine before motor replacment. i slide the thrust bearing on gearbox side and slip motor on and click clutch fork into pressure plate has worked perfect in the past but this time around im having issues mayb need to bleed the slave? any pointers or tips

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