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6x9s in rear doors of gf8


WRXONP

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nice usefull comment . . . seeing what idea people say about what sounds the best if you can read ? originally thought 6x9s but now thinking components but not sure where to mount tweeters .

anyone run 2x sets of components in front and 1x in the Rear ?

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 Scoobydoo said:

If you ran a High pass to the 6x9s, so they only run sub-frequencies, then that would be alright. Still get sub-bass, and rely on your front speakers for the mid & high frequencies.

I've toyed with this idea for some time, but never actually done it. I'd be keen to get some cheap 6x9's just to try it out.

Done this with infinity 6*9s and it sounded great the only 6*9's i have ever owned though and that was 14 years ago when I didnt know better (I'm 30) tried with my mates pioneers and they blew their ass out after a while so good in theory if you have quality gear as always
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 WRXONP said:

nice usefull comment . . . seeing what idea people say about what sounds the best if you can read ? originally thought 6x9s but now thinking components but not sure where to mount tweeters .

anyone run 2x sets of components in front and 1x in the Rear ?

have run 3 sets up front stage before and it was good but had 2 15s kickin the shit out in the boot so couldnt give an accurate comment really bro but I'm sure if you got good speakers it will sound fine as long as they are amped
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oh yeah . . ha ha subs are tempting but last time i got the sub buzz i spent way too much on subs !. . some one said high pass for some bass ? high pass filters It so you only get high frequency like a tweeter . low pass is what you set a amp for to run a sub . . .

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Back to the original question.....Do not mount your 6x9s in the doors

Its got less to do with what speaker you use and more to do with its intended usage and the enclosure you use.

Doors do not have enough space to run a 6x9...period

If they fit awesome.... they will sound like crap

6x9s are designed to be mounted in your rear parcel tray and use your boot as an enclosure.

Considered by many as a poor mans sub I have found them to be a good balance between the 12" subs and 6.5" fronts

I found there was a hole in the music between what the 6.5's could give without distortion

and what the 12" subs L/P crossover points were set at for the same reason.

so you could build your sub box with 6x9s in as well (awesome)

or mount 6.5" in the factory holes and spend the difference on some dynamat for the doors (also awesome)

Don't want to sound like Im telling you what to do its that I have seen alot of money wasted by people just because they didn't know.

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The human ear is quite poor at detecting the directional source of low frequency signals. So you can put a sub in your boot, and especially with some signal tinkering (phase and time alignment in particular) you can bring the sub 'forward'.

Our ears are very good at determining the location of higher frequency sounds, and this locational information is used by our brain to determine a lot of stuff about the source of the sound.

For example, if you listen very, very carefully to a well recorded track on good equipment you should be able to place the individual instruments/artists on the stage.

When you put components in the rear, particularly with the tweeter seperated and up high compared to the woofer, you can get some very, very curious effects, psychoacoustically. When you hear the exact same sound from in front of you, then a very small moment (path length difference) later from behind you, it basically makes your brain think you're in a very small room and you're hearing a reflection from behind you, or that there's 2 identical noise sources, which is very very rare in nature, and confuses the brain. It will just about make you feel like you're sitting in the middle of the performers.

Interestingly enough this is pretty much how most nightclubs have their sound setup, with speakers in all 4 corners with messed up path lengths, so if you're after club-ish (read: crappy) sound, then the same speakers at all 4 corners is probably the go.

If you want more of a concert style sound, or live performance, then good speakers up front with low-passed or no speakers in the back is the way to go.

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gee man just sub the sucker and if u wana remove the weight for a race or whatever its only few screws and amp aned sub are off...lol

anyway. subs and amps are cheap as man.. just something simple and semi decent (not hi end) will give more or less ok sound for average joe

but of course if u wan more quality u can spend more...but really need to ask if u really need all that sonic quality lol...

we just chucked a cheap sub amp combo (sony) in briothers v7 and sounds nice at mid volume and perfect for cruise etc..nothing more really neeeded from it i reakon...

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 boon said:

The human ear is quite poor at detecting the directional source of low frequency signals. So you can put a sub in your boot, and especially with some signal tinkering (phase and time alignment in particular) you can bring the sub 'forward'.

Our ears are very good at determining the location of higher frequency sounds, and this locational information is used by our brain to determine a lot of stuff about the source of the sound.

For example, if you listen very, very carefully to a well recorded track on good equipment you should be able to place the individual instruments/artists on the stage.

When you put components in the rear, particularly with the tweeter seperated and up high compared to the woofer, you can get some very, very curious effects, psychoacoustically. When you hear the exact same sound from in front of you, then a very small moment (path length difference) later from behind you, it basically makes your brain think you're in a very small room and you're hearing a reflection from behind you, or that there's 2 identical noise sources, which is very very rare in nature, and confuses the brain. It will just about make you feel like you're sitting in the middle of the performers.

Interestingly enough this is pretty much how most nightclubs have their sound setup, with speakers in all 4 corners with messed up path lengths, so if you're after club-ish (read: crappy) sound, then the same speakers at all 4 corners is probably the go.

If you want more of a concert style sound, or live performance, then good speakers up front with low-passed or no speakers in the back is the way to go.

Calm down calm down... that's far too hi-tech for the likes of this lot hahaha

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 pappu said:

hahahahha

hey boon u wana look at an amp i got.. some fool accidently put postive and negtive in wrong ports lol (thats what i was told...)

do u think can be repaired lol

Yes, usually very easily. But I'm swamped at the moment, 6 month turnaround MINIMUM.

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 Scoobydoo']

[quote name='boon said:

The human ear is quite poor at detecting the directional source of low frequency signals. So you can put a sub in your boot, and especially with some signal tinkering (phase and time alignment in particular) you can bring the sub 'forward'.

Our ears are very good at determining the location of higher frequency sounds, and this locational information is used by our brain to determine a lot of stuff about the source of the sound.

For example, if you listen very, very carefully to a well recorded track on good equipment you should be able to place the individual instruments/artists on the stage.

When you put components in the rear, particularly with the tweeter seperated and up high compared to the woofer, you can get some very, very curious effects, psychoacoustically. When you hear the exact same sound from in front of you, then a very small moment (path length difference) later from behind you, it basically makes your brain think you're in a very small room and you're hearing a reflection from behind you, or that there's 2 identical noise sources, which is very very rare in nature, and confuses the brain. It will just about make you feel like you're sitting in the middle of the performers.

Interestingly enough this is pretty much how most nightclubs have their sound setup, with speakers in all 4 corners with messed up path lengths, so if you're after club-ish (read: crappy) sound, then the same speakers at all 4 corners is probably the go.

If you want more of a concert style sound, or live performance, then good speakers up front with low-passed or no speakers in the back is the way to go.

/quote]

Calm down calm down... that's far too hi-tech for the likes of this lot hahaha

right on to tech for this question but interesting P.S only the shit clubs and pubs have this speaker setup to but is very common
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You'll be sweet with good components in the front, co-axs in the back. Set up the sound stage so that the front speakers are louder than the rear.

For more bass:

- Best to get a sub ( Which you don't want)

- Possible under seat sub.

- 6x9's in rear

Now someone said to put a filter on so the 6x9's only get the lower freq.

I just thought, what even about 6x9's in a sealed box ?? Mount them on the rear strut brace??

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 WRXONP said:

so are you saying put more speakers in front rather than Rear ? wouldn't amping all speakers from same amp cause no latency ? never herd this latency effect with any my other cars ?

Its not latency as such Its the difference in time it takes for the sound wave to reach your ear from each speaker. say the rear left speaker is 750 cm away and right front is only 230 cm away the sound wave reaches your ears at different times. Its only nanoseconds but trust me when I say using a head unit with " Time alignment " like my nice pioneer you can certainly tell the difference. you can even shift each speaker around the car by changing the time alignment settings while you sit there.(really odd feeling) but don't worry about that unless you paying big bucks on head unit or sound processor.

use good quality gear all round

mount 6.5" components in the doors with high mounted tweeters and 6.5 " splits in the back with sub/s in the boot

use the fader control to bring the sound stage forward a bit and use the hi-pass low-pass filters to stop distortion and you will have a better sounding system than alot of peeps out there

WRXONP

Dynamat is that stuff you stick on the door or whatever and yes you cover the whole door only making small holes for the looms and wires and speaker itself. you use it to stop road noise coming in, help seal the door and make it into a better enclosure because air leaks are bad when making good sounding enclosures. Ports and such are specifically tuned by length and radius to match the size of the speaker and enclosure and even then the rest of the box is sealed against leaks.

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 Timmah said:

Supercheap and/or Repco sell 6x9 box's

6x9 boxes suck massively. You buy 6x9s to get some bass when you don't want a sub, 6x9's are primarily designed to go in your parcel tray so they are designed to work in a semi-infinite baffle... they generally have quite stiff suspension and work best, when boxed, in around 80-100L ported per pair. Those 6x9 boxes are more like 4-5 litres, if you want that kind of sound you may as well install a row of tweeters across the parcel shelf since you'll be just about killing the low frequency output.

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 pappu']

[quote name='kwi_fozze said:

wowsers. reputation much???

/quote]

Hahh yea must be tough/good guy

Yea 6 months fine lol will meet up sometime to give

There's a few amps that I'm probably the only person in the country who can fix them properly (have information about parts that have the tops sanded off to protect the designs). So I have a stack of them and very, very little free time to work on them.

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