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Battery relocation Question


Johnnynz
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I'm going to relocate my battery to my boot, the guide I read said ground to the body but I know there is a school of thought that says ground to the engine/starter is needed. I don't want to restart the debate, although anyone who has actually done this I would appreciate if they shared where they grounded.

My question is would there be a downside to connecting to my current earth and running that to the boot the same as the positive wire? Other than the obvious weight gain, I mean from an electrical sense?

- Edit -

And probably wrong section but do you have to vent a battery box if you use a wetcell battery? I have stumbled across a few pages saying you need to have it vented, but that may only be for Motorsport events...

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Up to you really :) earthing back to the engine would be the best BUT running an earth to the body and then one from body to starter should work fine as well, After all the body of your car is a pretty bloody big conductor :)

I would vent a lead acid as it off gases while being used and while being charged

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I relocated my battery to behind the passengers seat (race car) and have just earthed to the body (bolt hole used to hold front of the lower part of the rear seat) and the car starts fine, i have next to no accessories tho. just earth the factory battery negative terminal really good in the engine bay and it should be all good

also i used 35mm2 welding cable for positive and negative, it's quite fat cause it's rated to 600v so have double layer insulation etc.

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you just have to be careful that you dont fry the ECU, i cant remember the specifics but there is the potential to be able to fry the ecu by a shorting event of some description (not caused by but allows it to happen by moving the earth circuit away from its factory location / configuration.)

Rick (ichi) was telling me about it couple of weeks ago.

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I am leaning toward just running 2 wires from the engine bay, 1 for Positive 1 for negative thereby maintaining the original Earth.

The extra weight doesn't worry me, have to put my ass on a diet before an extra couple of KG of wire makes much difference anyway ha ha.

I was more wondering if the length of the wire caused issues. It is my (mis?)understanding that length of the wire can cause issues hence why people often mod there fuel pump (relay?) to get a better flow of current.

Or is this only a problem with power to something not earthing of a current?

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Longer cable equals more loss of voltage, depends if your chassis or cable has more resistance in it. If i was you i'd do both earth at the boot plus run a negative cable if your gonna run a cable anyway.

The factory earth just bolts to the chassis in the engine bay anyway.

And find a electrician you know to hook you up with cable, i think all up i paid $10 for all my canle and lugs and heatshrink when doing my relocation

Oh and putting a circuit breaker close to your battery is also a good idea incase the cable gets damaged between the battery and fusebox, jaycar have them for pretty cheap

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dont get light cable you need welding cable which has double sheath mint protection or 30mm2 cable minimum.

heavier cable prevents voltage drop and it costs more than $10. if you dont you will wreck your starter no if its when...also lights dim etc

keep it as short as you can and run the earth to the car body.

keep your positive feed away from any speaker cabling to limit fuzz/static noise.

run it in the car under the carpet better protection.

you will need:

heatshrink/tape

5m of 0-35mm2 cable

battery box

cable ties

battery terminals x2

cable lugs x4

something to mount the box with

$170 off trade me or cheaper off me...

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 evowrx said:

dont get light cable you need welding cable which has double sheath mint protection or 30mm2 cable minimum.

heavier cable prevents voltage drop and it costs more than $10. if you dont you will wreck your starter no if its when...also lights dim etc

keep it as short as you can and run the earth to the car body.

keep your positive feed away from any speaker cabling to limit fuzz/static noise.

run it in the car under the carpet better protection.

you will need:

heatshrink/tape

5m of 0-35mm2 cable

battery box

cable ties

battery terminals x2

cable lugs x4

something to mount the box with

$170 off trade me or cheaper off me...

so how much if we get thru you ???

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$145 free freight pm me to order:

5m cable

cable lugs x4

heatshrink

cable ties

positive terminal

negative terminal

battery box optional

FREE FREIGHT

run it in the car shorter by a 1m+. just run the cable through a grommet if you are really worried wrap it in insul tape. the cable doesn't really move its normally a tight as fit and nothing pulls on it.

true funky i missed that dry cell dont need box so $125 w/o box

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Mr evowrx, read my first post, i used 32mm2 welding cable, and i'm an electrician so i got the cable on a good discount, same with lugs etc, hence why i was telling people to talk to a freindly sparky ifthey know one.

I would say running the cable under the car you would risk stones etc damaging the cable, i just run the cables through the ac pipe gland in the firewall

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 nztintin said:

Mr evowrx, read my first post, i used 32mm2 welding cable, and i'm an electrician so i got the cable on a good discount, same with lugs etc, hence why i was telling people to talk to a freindly sparky ifthey know one.

I would say running the cable under the car you would risk stones etc damaging the cable, i just run the cables through the ac pipe gland in the firewall

This is me talking to freindly sparky.... ;-)

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Yeah I will run mine in car for sure, same as I have run all my Sub cables before. I have never had any issues and a lot of them were with cheap install kits.

Nothing like the quality i would use for this.

oh and +1 to Madmikes sentiment :) if you can hook me up as well Tintin I even know where to come and grab it when I am up next :D

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 nztintin said:

I relocated my battery to behind the passengers seat (race car) and have just earthed to the body (bolt hole used to hold front of the lower part of the rear seat) and the car starts fine, i have next to no accessories tho. just earth the factory battery negative terminal really good in the engine bay and it should be all good

also i used 35mm2 welding cable for positive and negative, it's quite fat cause it's rated to 600v so have double layer insulation etc.

says 35mm2 but algood 32mm2 what im quoting too so will work fine. just remember where you put your battery is a tad shorter than the average person who uses there back seat. buying old truck jumper leads/welding cable is a cheap way of doing it the cable lasts forever

32mm2 cable by itself $11p/m

agreed on cable placement

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Ill see what i can do, i just need to sweet talk the boss again into letting me put more stuff on my tool account so i get his discount (so far this month i've put $500 on it with less than $100 of actual tools! lol)

Na dude your all good... Won't need it for ages yet.. Hold off.

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Even with welding cable, if you going to run it under car, put it in some split conduit for added protection and secure it well. (experience from working on trucks many years ago)

Run the cable from -ve terminal to chassis, and use the same size cable and put a link from starter motor bolt to chassis in engine bay.

+ve run direct to starter motor solenoid. If factory fuse box is still in engine bay, run abit of 10-16mm2 cable from starter motor +ve terminal to main fuse to get your power for rest of vehicle.

you M U S T put some form of isolation device, close to the battery. You can buy truck isolators that are 2pole (which means they disconnect both +ve and -ve(earth) or motorsport type ones with remote operating.

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  • 2 weeks later...
 D-Style said:

Even with welding cable, if you going to run it under car, put it in some split conduit for added protection and secure it well. (experience from working on trucks many years ago)

Run the cable from -ve terminal to chassis, and use the same size cable and put a link from starter motor bolt to chassis in engine bay.

+ve run direct to starter motor solenoid. If factory fuse box is still in engine bay, run abit of 10-16mm2 cable from starter motor +ve terminal to main fuse to get your power for rest of vehicle.

+1

when i put the +ve cable through the firewall i put it through the rubber grommet that was left from where the aircon pipes used to go through the firewall.

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 rockr']

[quote name='D-Style said:

Even with welding cable, if you going to run it under car, put it in some split conduit for added protection and secure it well. (experience from working on trucks many years ago)

Run the cable from -ve terminal to chassis, and use the same size cable and put a link from starter motor bolt to chassis in engine bay.

+ve run direct to starter motor solenoid. If factory fuse box is still in engine bay, run abit of 10-16mm2 cable from starter motor +ve terminal to main fuse to get your power for rest of vehicle.

/quote]

+1

when i put the +ve cable through the firewall i put it through the rubber grommet that was left from where the aircon pipes used to go through the firewall.

I would only use cable glands on a vehicle. Bushes still let the cable move.

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longer cable = bigger losses, as tintin said. bigger cable is better, as you stumble into losses with the current and resistance etc.

basically big is best, and yes, friendly sparkies are helpful. unfortunately i can't get hold of any. company has gone to new order number system.

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