gotasuby

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1 minute ago, Dairusire said:

 

That's a fantastic question, to which I'd like the answer. The tuner believes it to be a trigger problem. However, I've since had all my engines triggers (crank, cam angle etc) all tested and they're good. 

 

Meanwhile I've got a different point of view from others which point it in another direction. Being vague as I don't want to point fingers as I don't 100% know yet and it's extremely hard to tell :/

I'm interested to find out what happened too, if you get confirmation then post it up, you don't have to name companies. 

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pm me and I can tell you. Not here to bash but to be analytical and use logic and deduction.\

 

I now see the pics. She seems to be burning some oil tho. If the case, will be excessive detonation.

 

Was it noted or was just a one time tuned and with complaints?

 

I see some melting. Could be due to many things. Any logs leading up?

 

WHat was the oil pressure and oil used during the period?

Edited by west_minist

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1 minute ago, west_minist said:

pm me and I can tell you. Not here to bash but to be analytical and use logic and deduction.\

 

I now see the pics. She seems to be burning some oil tho. If the case, will be excessive detonation.

 

Was it noted or was just a one time tuned and with complaints?

 

It shows to have burnt oil as a ton of it got pushed through into the intake tract and into the cylinders. At least that's what @Subirex Automotive my mechanic said to the best of my memory. 

 

It was just tuned the One time on Dyno. I'll PM you some more information @west_minist

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It was burning oil long time for a bit. Either rings breaking down for blow by or other issues. That oil burning will cause detonation and if she was tuned for power, that will be a bad combination. Any oil catch cans?

Send me a pic of the engine when it was working?

 

Explain how she use to feel and drive.

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Reviewing the Link G+ log and the maps, she looks good except a bit of pinging, but I cannot see the AFR.

 

By any change, you had oil pressure issues?

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Hey anyone know much on the link setup to stop boost cut being hit when I change from 3-4 and 4-5. If I change quickly or after a few laps on the track it has a we boost spike only when you change and hits he cut for a second or two and then goes to nornal

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Reviewing the Link G+ log and the maps, she looks good except a bit of pinging, but I cannot see the AFR.
 
By any change, you had oil pressure issues?
Haven't had any oil pressure issues no. As for AFR, should be logged under lambda 1

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

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On 14/09/2017 at 11:40 AM, Dairusire said:

 

That's a fantastic question, to which I'd like the answer. The tuner believes it to be a trigger problem. However, I've since had all my engines triggers (crank, cam angle etc) all tested and they're good. 

 

Meanwhile I've got a different point of view from others which point it in another direction. Being vague as I don't want to point fingers as I don't 100% know yet and it's extremely hard to tell :/

 

 

Trigger issue my willy, you don't melt a piston like that because the ECU loses track of a camshaft occasionally. Plus you would have got a CEL.

 

Based on the look of the pistons and bores, and especially the combustion chamber (filthy as, wtf), it's been burning oil for a while. As west_minist said, this will cause it to knock a lot.

 

I'll take my uneducated internets mechanic 2c and bet it on massively excessive breathing/blowby. Have a look in your intercooler, if it's full of oil that's your culprit.

This is assuming you have the breathers plumbed back into the intake, not to a catch can.

 

Side note, it will have taken a piss-load of knock to do that to your motor, did you not hear anything when it was happening?

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7 minutes ago, boon said:

 

Trigger issue my willy, you don't melt a piston like that because the ECU loses track of a camshaft occasionally. Plus you would have got a CEL.

 

Based on the look of the pistons and bores, and especially the combustion chamber (filthy as, wtf), it's been burning oil for a while. As west_minist said, this will cause it to knock a lot.

 

I'll take my uneducated internets mechanic 2c and bet it on massively excessive breathing/blowby. Have a look in your intercooler, if it's full of oil that's your culprit.

This is assuming you have the breathers plumbed back into the intake, not to a catch can.

 

Side note, it will have taken a piss-load of knock to do that to your motor, did you not hear anything when it was happening?

 

The combustion chamber is filthy as heck due to when Ajay was diagnosing or checking etc, he had it running for a bit at idle and it was smoking like a mofo. my bet is this pushed all the oil through and is what you're seeing burnt onto the pistons but once again, I don't know :/ 

 

I can't say if it was burning oil prior to this, as I never saw blue smoke on start or while driving, and whenever I had the car running it was running (before this of course) it never showed signs of oil burn. 

 

It's a bit late for it now regardless as I don't know.

 

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Hey guys. I’ve been playing around with ecuflash and romraider lately, I bought a tactrix cable awhile back and have done some logging etc. I’ve also done most of Andre Simon’s high performance academy online courses and read through romraider and nasioc forums and am getting really fanatic about tuning. I’m about to invest in a wideband, probably the innovate LM2 as it’s portable and does everything. It’s cool reading through this thread and to have people like @gotasuby keen to help out. I think we should have a dedicated tuning thread under non specific model if that could be done @RAYDEO.

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You would hope they backed up your stock ROM, he should atleast be willing to give that to you...what if you wanted to return the car to stock and sell it?

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2 hours ago, willisnz said:

You would hope they backed up your stock ROM, he should atleast be willing to give that to you...what if you wanted to return the car to stock and sell it?

Hey @willisnz

 

His ecu is not locked, he simply cant save his current tune, due to not having the correct definition for that particular tune

He can reflash in any tune he likes

 

Phil

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hey so my car when tuned/setup was with two pumps. in tank fuel pump (unkonwn) and external bosch044. bosch is being removed now and im replacing lift pump with a new unit.

 

new setup is just 1 pump, in tank. aem 320.

 

would there be any benefit to setting my new pump for 100% all the time or just leave as default ? from my understanding the default is 33% on cruise, 66% unders ome load and then 100% on WOT, with WOT being probably the only time one needs pump at 100%. bit of mixed info googling around, with many people particularly in american forums suggesting they direct wire their aftermarket pumps to battery bypassing the fuel pump controller, meaning it's at 100% all the time.

 

 

yKeiltZ.png

 

also with the different flow characteristics i'm expecting minor changes in fuelling, which it should probably trim by it self? if i want to keep an eye on this out of curiosity + paranoia + being a nerd what is the parameter i should be logging? i'm thinking if its doing a lot of trimming in certain areas then i should just adjust those areas of fuel table so it doesn't have to trim (dangerous me doing it i know, curisous and wanna learn :) )

 

leading from above, if i do leave the stock settings on new pump then my fuel pressures will be different at different throttle positions meaning fuelling / resulting actual afr will be affected (tuned for bosch044 at 100% vs 33-66% new pump).. or am i actually overthinking this as usual?

 

oh another noob question guys :

this setup seems super conservative. what sort of parameters do you want to be monitoring (oil temp, coolant temp, afr?) when working on antilag setup. what would you put in for a 'typical' functional setup, and say one that's more for show (popping/shooting flames)?

i9YLcaS.png

 

signed a waiver to get my password and had a really interesting afternoon coming out of my shell reading through all the ecu settings. can really appreciate the things tuners do

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That table is only showing you the amount of fuel added when antilag active. The cut and retard will make it pop and bang. Be careful with antilag holding valves open. The fueling shouldn't change if the new pump can keep up with fuel requirements. I would run low speed for cruise and medium duty at light load

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Be very careful with antilag, if you get it wrong you may well hurt your motor and/or turbo (ask me how I know!).

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6 hours ago, Munkvy said:

Be very careful with antilag, if you get it wrong you may well hurt your motor and/or turbo (ask me how I know!).

haha yeah warning noted, i think if anything i may play with my cyclic idle just to get it sounding a bit better when i switch it on, anti lag it self i guess they set it like that for a reason and i probably won't tinker with that.

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2 hours ago, Batbaruman said:

haha yeah warning noted, i think if anything i may play with my cyclic idle just to get it sounding a bit better when i switch it on, anti lag it self i guess they set it like that for a reason and i probably won't tinker with that.

 

Duuuuude stop stressing about the AFR just from changing a fuel pump. The conditions in the fuel rail aren't gonna change one little bit, that's why you have a fuel pressure regulator.

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@Dairusire you asked about the timing on my white car. I had a bit of a chat to my boss who runs a race car and he was curious too. Thoughts on this? 

 

XgjYxji.jpg

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3 minutes ago, RaKid said:

@Dairusire you asked about the timing on my white car. I had a bit of a chat to my boss who runs a race car and he was curious too. Thoughts on this? 

 

XgjYxji.jpg

 

By chance, can you go to a part of the log of where you're at boost target and Wide open throttle? 

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12 minutes ago, Dairusire said:

 

By chance, can you go to a part of the log of where you're at boost target and Wide open throttle? 

 

Is that the section just right before the cursor? 

 

yYf3UUQ.jpg

 

Here's 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear if this helps

t700Jo3.jpg

Edited by RaKid

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hey guys, anyone got examples of anti lag / launch control set up on their link g4/g4+? i've been starting to play around with things (gently) but not sure exactly where best to start, figured i'd ask for an example and see what i can learn from there. i want to build more boost off the line and yeh bit immature/ricerish but wouldn't mind some flames/pops. not too concerned about maintaining boost through shifts but a nice pop/burble wouldn't go unappreciated on shift :P my anti lag/ launch control is currently set up to activate via same digital input but i can separate them if that's better.

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1 minute ago, gotasuby said:

Have you considered flat foot shifting. Have you got uprated valve springs? 

have always been a bit paranoid of the potential for damage , in your opinion is it relatively fine for sti gearbox? could be something im willing to experiment with

 

my valve springs are stock as far as i know

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