BMCracer

EZ30 Not running very well

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Totally standard engine. I'ts got a Cosworth Filter, new plugs 9000kms ago ( engine is at 169,000 ), a run Castrol 10W40 oil in it ( changed with filter every 5000km ), and now run it on 98 ( usually Mobil ) - I ran it on 95 for about the first 18 months I had it ( in NZ ). I took the car to Perth with me last year, at 160,000km. 98 petrol over here is $1.49/litre so 98 over here costs me less than 91 in NZ, and as a bonus I get better economy over here because Perth is flatter than Auckland 😁

 

I bought the car in Whangarei with 139,000km on it. It's NZ new with 5EAT gearbox. I don't drive it hard ( maybe it needs an "Italian" tuneup?? ). I can't say I've ever been impressed with the low down torque, for a 3L 6 cylinder I thought it should go better. And the gearbox shifting is horrible, mechanically it's fine but whatever tells it what gear to be in and when to change is terrible. Just as well it has paddles..........

 

Anyway, it started using more fuel recently, and I found 2 error codes using BtSsm - IAT too high and MAF too low ( I think, maybe I got that around the wrong way ). So I reset the ECU at the lights, the faults cleared, and the fuel consumption came back down. I took some logs I think the first one is before I reset the ECU and the rest after.

 

49536765691_3619a3cf5f_c.jpgthumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1508 by JAFA851, on Flickr

 

49536269628_cf1e8195ec_c.jpgthumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1513 by JAFA851, on Flickr

 

49536269583_79a27c6616_c.jpgthumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1525 by JAFA851, on Flickr

 

49536997732_234c5760c2_c.jpgthumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1544 by JAFA851, on Flickr

 

When running BtSsm in the car, the IAT is always very low, the highest I have ever seen it is 0.500, but most of the time it's around 0.125 or lower, quite often it sits at 0.000

 

I would like to get this sorted out, and increase the lower end torque for round town driving. Not interested in HP, it's got more than enough, but more low end torque and better fuel economy would be nice. Been reading about the Raptor headers, apparently those and tune make a lot of difference, but then I just read a thread on here someone said not worth the money?

 

Dunno any tuners over here, and am partial to having a back and forth with an E tuner to get it properly right over several fine tunes, rather than one blast on the dyno which isn't totally like the real world.

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Best results will come from a Dyno tune. Your concern about "one blast" isn't really correct as most reputable places that tune street cars will spend heaps of time tuning low/mid load areas to make the car feel good under normal driving conditions, and only then will they move onto power runs and high load tuning. A reputable tuner will factor in safety margins for real world ambient temps and humidity levels if they can't be simulated on the dyno.

 

You can try an internet tune but this can be risky as there's less monitoring of the car while you're testing the tune than you get on a dyno, so it's harder to tell when things aren't going right, and the final results of an internet tune will never be as good as a dyno. In saying that, there's an internet tuner out there that's specifically mentioned by Raptor as providing quality tunes, so you can research that and come to your own conclusions.

 

Headers can get you some extra gains from any tune as the factory ones are highly restrictive, but are apparently only worth it if you free up the rest of the exhaust system as well, which makes sense. 

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1 hour ago, calebwrx said:

Best results will come from a Dyno tune. Your concern about "one blast" isn't really correct as most reputable places that tune street cars will spend heaps of time tuning low/mid load areas to make the car feel good under normal driving conditions, and only then will they move onto power runs and high load tuning. A reputable tuner will factor in safety margins for real world ambient temps and humidity levels if they can't be simulated on the dyno.

 

Headers can get you some extra gains from any tune as the factory ones are highly restrictive, but are apparently only worth it if you free up the rest of the exhaust system as well, which makes sense. 

This is spot on. 

A proper dyno tune will build up the required parameters as they go through many pulls on the dyno. If the guys have been tuning these engines for a while then they know what works as a good base then tune to your cars preferences. 

Have a look at HP Acadamy or even Scotty from Haltech when he tunes on Mighty Car Mods on youtube.

 

I would start at the 3rd cat (y section) back first before spending money on headers as said above are restrictive but so is the rest of the system. 

My 3.0 outback is running a 2.5inch to 2.25 to straight through mufflers - xforce system, and it helps get the system breathing better, definitely noticeable. 

Check out @gotasuby , he has a couple of build pages and knows his Subarus.

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If the car has IAT and MAF issues, wouldn't it be sensible to start there and test a known working MAF?

I'd ensure the MAF is OK before going anywhere near a dyno.

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13 minutes ago, pl0x said:

If the car has IAT and MAF issues, wouldn't it be sensible to start there and test a known working MAF?

I'd ensure the MAF is OK before going anywhere near a dyno.

 

Thinking about that, wasn't there someone on here recently with some similar issues which turned out to be the alternator playing up?

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hi @BMCracer did you figure out what was happening with this car, did the IAM & MAF ranges recover or the engine need any work done ?  

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No still haven't figured it out. IAM has been at 0.064 the last week or so. Going to check the plastic airbox thing at the back of the engine as they seem to have a tendancy to crank on the H6's. But other than that i dunno.

 

Regarding what @AndyMack said about someone else having similar problems and a shot alternator, I have BtSsm running all the time, and I have the battery voltage as one of the displays, and it's always around the high 13's so I don't think that is the problem?

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it was @boon that had mentioned it previously. Failing rectifier on the alternator allowing some AC voltage through which can screw up sensor readings I believe but will still look good in BTSSM.

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Can you grab a drive log file with BtSSM with the fields below where poss' ? They mightn't be named the same in BtSSM.  It may (or not) hold some clues but feel free to post the data file back here.

 

Time (msec)
A/F Correction #1 (%)
A/F Correction #2 (%)
A/F Learning #1 (%)
A/F Learning #2 (%)
A/F Sensor #1 (AFR)
A/F Sensor #2 (AFR)
Accelerator Pedal Angle (%)
Coolant Temperature (C)
Engine Load (g/rev)
Engine Speed (rpm)
Feedback Knock Correction (degrees)
Fine Learning Knock Correction (degrees)
Gear (Calculated) (position)
IAM (multiplier)
Ignition Total Timing (degrees)
Injector Duty Cycle (%)
Intake Air Temperature (C)
Intake VVT Advance Angle Left (degrees)
Intake VVT Advance Angle Right (degrees)
Knock Correction Advance (IAM only) (degrees)
Manifold Absolute Pressure (psi)
Mass Airflow (g/s)
Mass Airflow Sensor Voltage (V)
Oil Temperature (C)
Throttle Motor Voltage (V)
Throttle Opening Angle (%)
Vehicle Speed (km/h)
Feedback Knock Correction (degrees)

 

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I did the log files today, but how do I attach them, or how do I view them? They are CSV files.

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7 hours ago, BMCracer said:

I did the log files today, but how do I attach them, or how do I view them? They are CSV files.

 

Google drive then share the link

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IAM 0.5 means the ECU is recently reset, IAM 0.0 means it is building up data to work with but 0.062 is real low.  The first thing to look at is your AVCS aka VVT as the left hand side is very erratic and would definitely cause probs,  should be a graph attached.  There are further AVCS diagnosis parameters that can help I'll find a list of those (edit: any labelled OCV or oil control valve).  Any new check engine codes, oil leaks or noises on the engine passenger side ?

bmc_avcs.png

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Posted (edited)

There are no engine codes up, and no abnormal noises from anywhere. There is a small oil leak from somewhere around the front cover, uses maybe 100ml oil every 5000km, but it may burn a bit of that 100ml too who knows. I use Magnatec 10W40 semi synthetic every 5000km with genuine filters. Engine is nearly at 170,000km

 

What controls the AVCS - a sensor? Or what gives the reading to the ECU?

 

The whole time I've had the Nexus in there, the only codes it's ever had were the ones I started this thread about.

 

The car runs the same as the day I bought it, nearly 3 years ago, so whatever the problem is, is not new, and it is also unnoticable without the Nexus / BtSsm. It you don't have that displaying everything, you'd never know there was a problem.

 

I degreased the whole engine and bay a not that long ago, so I'll pull the bottom cover off one day and see if I can see where the leak is coming from.

Edited by BMCracer
More info

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3 hours ago, ajayel said:

IAM 0.5 means the ECU is recently reset, IAM 0.0 means it is building up data to work with but 0.062 is real low.  The first thing to look at is your AVCS aka VVT as the left hand side is very erratic and would definitely cause probs,  should be a graph attached.  There are further AVCS diagnosis parameters that can help I'll find a list of those (edit: any labelled OCV or oil control valve).  Any new check engine codes, oil leaks or noises on the engine passenger side ?

bmc_avcs.png

Wow this is interesting!!!!!

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BTSSM doesn't have the OCV parameters so need to test them against AVCS angles using RomRaider.

Or pull the solenoids out, swap sides and see if the issue stays on the same side or moves with the solenoid.

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Posted (edited)

So now I'm reading on another forum that the AVCSkicks in around 1500-2000rpm. Is that correct? In which case do I need to do anothe rlog at more than 2000rpm to make sure it is ( should be ) fully "on"? 

2 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

BTSSM doesn't have the OCV parameters so need to test them against AVCS angles using RomRaider.

Or pull the solenoids out, swap sides and see if the issue stays on the same side or moves with the solenoid.

OK which one of those is easier to do?😀

I miss my old MG  with 2 valve pushrod, carburettor and points distributor. So easy to fix!!!

Edited by BMCracer

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1 hour ago, BMCracer said:

So now I'm reading on another forum that the AVCSkicks in around 1500-2000rpm. Is that correct? In which case do I need to do anothe rlog at more than 2000rpm to make sure it is ( should be ) fully "on"? 

OK which one of those is easier to do?😀

I miss my old MG  with 2 valve pushrod, carburettor and points distributor. So easy to fix!!!

 

Regardless, left and right aren't doing the same thing which is concerning. If you have a laptop and RomRaider already installed then that is the easy option.

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5 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

BTSSM doesn't have the OCV parameters so need to test them against AVCS angles using RomRaider.

Or pull the solenoids out, swap sides and see if the issue stays on the same side or moves with the solenoid.


I haven't removed these valves myself but it might be worth noting the LH and RH valves have different part numbers possibly indicating they can't be swapped...

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I haven't actually done the intake ones before but have swapped the exhaust ones on a GT and the actual solenoid is the same for both sides even with the outer frame being different.

 

@Nachoooo where have you seen the part numbers?

Just checked in partsouq for a GT and can't seem to see any left or right variants unless the 3.0r’s use different ones.

 

49804311423_21eec73cb2_b.jpg

 

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Posted (edited)

Same thing on Partsouq haha

EDIT: These are the AVLS solenoids, only applicable to the EZ30

Capture.JPG

Edited by Nachoooo
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OK well I just downloaded Romraider. Do I use logger_std_en_v350 or logger_METRIC_EN_v350 when I get to that point?

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Metric, unless you like reading things in fractions of inches and glazed donuts per bald eagle like  a m e r i c a n s😂

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I wasn't going to use the imperial one. But what is the difference between the metric one and the "standard" ( logger_std_en_v350 ) one?

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