BMCracer

EZ30 Not running very well

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Totally standard engine. I'ts got a Cosworth Filter, new plugs 9000kms ago ( engine is at 169,000 ), a run Castrol 10W40 oil in it ( changed with filter every 5000km ), and now run it on 98 ( usually Mobil ) - I ran it on 95 for about the first 18 months I had it ( in NZ ). I took the car to Perth with me last year, at 160,000km. 98 petrol over here is $1.49/litre so 98 over here costs me less than 91 in NZ, and as a bonus I get better economy over here because Perth is flatter than Auckland 😁

 

I bought the car in Whangarei with 139,000km on it. It's NZ new with 5EAT gearbox. I don't drive it hard ( maybe it needs an "Italian" tuneup?? ). I can't say I've ever been impressed with the low down torque, for a 3L 6 cylinder I thought it should go better. And the gearbox shifting is horrible, mechanically it's fine but whatever tells it what gear to be in and when to change is terrible. Just as well it has paddles..........

 

Anyway, it started using more fuel recently, and I found 2 error codes using BtSsm - IAT too high and MAF too low ( I think, maybe I got that around the wrong way ). So I reset the ECU at the lights, the faults cleared, and the fuel consumption came back down. I took some logs I think the first one is before I reset the ECU and the rest after.

 

49536765691_3619a3cf5f_c.jpgthumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1508 by JAFA851, on Flickr

 

49536269628_cf1e8195ec_c.jpgthumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1513 by JAFA851, on Flickr

 

49536269583_79a27c6616_c.jpgthumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1525 by JAFA851, on Flickr

 

49536997732_234c5760c2_c.jpgthumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1544 by JAFA851, on Flickr

 

When running BtSsm in the car, the IAT is always very low, the highest I have ever seen it is 0.500, but most of the time it's around 0.125 or lower, quite often it sits at 0.000

 

I would like to get this sorted out, and increase the lower end torque for round town driving. Not interested in HP, it's got more than enough, but more low end torque and better fuel economy would be nice. Been reading about the Raptor headers, apparently those and tune make a lot of difference, but then I just read a thread on here someone said not worth the money?

 

Dunno any tuners over here, and am partial to having a back and forth with an E tuner to get it properly right over several fine tunes, rather than one blast on the dyno which isn't totally like the real world.

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Best results will come from a Dyno tune. Your concern about "one blast" isn't really correct as most reputable places that tune street cars will spend heaps of time tuning low/mid load areas to make the car feel good under normal driving conditions, and only then will they move onto power runs and high load tuning. A reputable tuner will factor in safety margins for real world ambient temps and humidity levels if they can't be simulated on the dyno.

 

You can try an internet tune but this can be risky as there's less monitoring of the car while you're testing the tune than you get on a dyno, so it's harder to tell when things aren't going right, and the final results of an internet tune will never be as good as a dyno. In saying that, there's an internet tuner out there that's specifically mentioned by Raptor as providing quality tunes, so you can research that and come to your own conclusions.

 

Headers can get you some extra gains from any tune as the factory ones are highly restrictive, but are apparently only worth it if you free up the rest of the exhaust system as well, which makes sense. 

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1 hour ago, calebwrx said:

Best results will come from a Dyno tune. Your concern about "one blast" isn't really correct as most reputable places that tune street cars will spend heaps of time tuning low/mid load areas to make the car feel good under normal driving conditions, and only then will they move onto power runs and high load tuning. A reputable tuner will factor in safety margins for real world ambient temps and humidity levels if they can't be simulated on the dyno.

 

Headers can get you some extra gains from any tune as the factory ones are highly restrictive, but are apparently only worth it if you free up the rest of the exhaust system as well, which makes sense. 

This is spot on. 

A proper dyno tune will build up the required parameters as they go through many pulls on the dyno. If the guys have been tuning these engines for a while then they know what works as a good base then tune to your cars preferences. 

Have a look at HP Acadamy or even Scotty from Haltech when he tunes on Mighty Car Mods on youtube.

 

I would start at the 3rd cat (y section) back first before spending money on headers as said above are restrictive but so is the rest of the system. 

My 3.0 outback is running a 2.5inch to 2.25 to straight through mufflers - xforce system, and it helps get the system breathing better, definitely noticeable. 

Check out @gotasuby , he has a couple of build pages and knows his Subarus.

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If the car has IAT and MAF issues, wouldn't it be sensible to start there and test a known working MAF?

I'd ensure the MAF is OK before going anywhere near a dyno.

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13 minutes ago, pl0x said:

If the car has IAT and MAF issues, wouldn't it be sensible to start there and test a known working MAF?

I'd ensure the MAF is OK before going anywhere near a dyno.

 

Thinking about that, wasn't there someone on here recently with some similar issues which turned out to be the alternator playing up?

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