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Suitable Oils


Swindog

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Go to your kitchen. Grab some vege oil. Pour some on the pan. Then feel it between your fingers. Now heat the pan up and watch what happens to the oil once it gets to temp.

Now rotate the oil around the pan and notice the speed at which it flows around the pan.

Now think of the cold oil in the pan as 10w. Then as you heat it up it becomes a 30. Now at the point the oil burns and disappears is its point of the scale I.e becomes unstable and stops doing its job (30 acts as a 30) while a higher number will retain lubrication at a higher point.

The first number in the *10w/ xx is its starting lubrication. The last part 10w/*30 is its thickness/ thinness at operating temp. It still is a *10w but can stretch its qualities to a *30 "thinness".

Now this is where people get confused and assume / understand how it all works and what\'s better and what isn\'t.

Oil used by manufacturer is purely an indication of what you can use.

You have to remember if its a Jap car- the oil they suggest is oil for their climate and temperature.

Flame on. Am willing to accept being shot down.

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 titian said:

Have to climb in here!...Yes every 5000K for longevity with a filter of course! :o 8)

Have an old GT with rocker heads that are known to tap...Yet has never even tapped the valves once, Oil changed at 5000K intervals and has now done 500,000km. :) :)

10/40 or 15 /40 oil is ok for your average/standard bearing fitted turbo motor. ;)

Most important factor? lubricity...As in the "S" code SG is low, SM is high...the further down the alphabet the second letter the better the lube factor.

Another point to consider is the detergent factor "C" code.

I use CG which is actually reccomended for diesels...But is ok in high tolerance turbo motors so long as it is changed at regular :|"short" intervals.

I have posted in this post how to test your oil to see when to change. Testing is the only way to know when to change your oil. ;)

S is spark/petrol and c is compression/diesel. Next time youre oil shopping check how much the diesel/petrol range overlaps...

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.

 clintondane said:

All I wanna know is will a fully synthetic 5w-40 Valvoline be ok? I don\'t wanna know the finer details etc, lol.

I\'m not sure why you asked in the first place.

Have a look in your vehicle specific workshop manual and go buy the best oil recommended at that viscosity.

Instead you asked the question on here and got everybody\'s mostly unqualified answers/opinions.

Unless the car has been extensively modified at the engine; then there\'s no need to second guess the manufacturer.

This whole thread needs to be junked.

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api rating SH AND SG are OLD AS hell, todays rating is SN. anyone reading this post go Penrite 5w 60, low k\'s fresh rebuild, penrite 10w 50 middle of the range to high k\'s ie 80k to 190k use 15w 60 190k plus always full syn. If smoking out the exhaust while engine is hot use the thicker range oil or higher number I\'ve listed come to super cheap in albany, It\'s not a car if it\'s not a subaru hahahahah

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SN and full syn blah 2 years old yea and your car is how many years old? Just coz its the latest and greatest doesnt mean its the best for your car. Why pay for a higher spec oil that isnt going to make it any better anyway? Not a stir just common sense.

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  • 4 weeks later...
 tebbyj said:

Just to add more info that i thought might be interesting,

slidingstrokes put this link up in another thread but it didn\'t work so ive fixed the link and it is really worth a read if your going to do an oil change soon, slightly outdated but still very informative.

http://www.lnengineering.com/oiltest.pdf

Valvoline is gonna be everyone\'s best friend now isn\'t it :P not surprising though.

Sucks cause all the other brands and prices speak volumes. It\'s all about marketing strategy

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  • 3 weeks later...

As far as 5w-30w oils go, dont use them if you like to use your subaru in the high rev range, you are likely to damage a big end bearing, 5w-30w is just to thin.Subaru recommends it for "normal" driving because it gives better fuel economy.If you go to a subaru dealer and ask what oil for high rev driving, they will give you 10w-60w.

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 tebbyj said:

Just to add more info that i thought might be interesting,

slidingstrokes put this link up in another thread but it didn\'t work so ive fixed the link and it is really worth a read if your going to do an oil change soon, slightly outdated but still very informative.

http://www.lnengineering.com/oiltest.pdf

mildy interesting... but totally unrealistic... unless you are running your engine with no oil pressure... at least that\'s what I understood they were doing... metal on metal contact with a bit of oil squirted on.

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  • 4 months later...

been using valvaline engine armour oil 5w 30, noticed the subaru tick on 1st start ups, 15w 40 magnatec for the winter? oil only done 4000ks max so will dump it and see if thicker oil helps, engine done maybe 40000ks on rebuild

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  • 2 weeks later...

Maybe this thread should get binned and an annual "What oil do you use" thread with a poll, to give people an idea of who uses what as a rough guideline.

 reaperblitz said:

Check how quickly your oil breaks down with magnatec... If you don\'t know what that means, change it as regularly as you get a wof and don\'t bother reading any of this post

I find with Magnatec its blackish after 2500ish K\'s

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 Timmah']

Maybe this thread should get binned and an annual "What oil do you use" thread with a poll, to give people an idea of who uses what as a rough guideline.

[quote name='reaperblitz said:

Check how quickly your oil breaks down with magnatec... If you don\'t know what that means, change it as regularly as you get a wof and don\'t bother reading any of this post

/quote]

I find with Magnatec its blackish after 2500ish K\'s

Lol good answer.

Archive it for comparison to future posts / answers. Some form of truth should be kept on the net :P

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  • 3 months later...

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