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Joker

Show us your Crack! (how to Disc change)

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my efforts Manfield 2007

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Newsuba's Manfield Last week:

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How to: You will need: sockets, Jack, Stand (optional but recomended) 2x new discs (minimum), brake fluid (optional)

Loosen your nuts, then loosen your nuts

Jack and Axel stand

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Remove Wheel and identify the Disc (both sides as no point replacing only 1 disc)

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10mm bolt behind your caliper than holds if there - loosen and remove it, caliper will swing down

Wrong, 2x bolts secure calipers to strut, undo these and caliper will come off (keep it attached to brake line and take care how it 'dangles')

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wind a bolt into the disc and it will help seperate it from the hub - no really the just rest on there, time/age help make it harder to remove

reverse process:

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the brake piston will need adjustment because new disc is thicker, squeeze carefully with G-clamp or pliers here, some like to loosen bleed nipple as there have been incidents of rupture in brake booster with this process, OR remove pads and apply pressure directly to the piston (we saw both methods)

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If your loosened bleed nipple then you will need to bleed brakes, make sure to open lid and keep resivuor topped up

please add comments/corrections I should add etc

Drive carefully for the 1st week as your pads will need to bed to the new discs and braking may be unsteady immediately

We also acknowledge BT for being the self-proclaimed King of Cracks and Demolition of Brake Pads (KoCaDoBP - for short)

Note: Cross drilled are for show - these tend to crack worse with sometime catastrophic results, Slots are a little better, and Stock is best (bang for buck) except on dedicated track/strip cars

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I talked to a chap at a car sales place, the sales man has a subi rally car, i mentioned cracking discs with 4 pots and he said to get 2nd rotors from wreckers etc and get them skimmed, then they have been heated treated already and stay stronger? ideas?

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I think he means to get original rotors, due to shit quality replacements.

Get brembo replacement OEM rotors. The DBA rotors and most OEM replacments, Lucas TWR etc are shit quality steel made in China.

Brembo rotors are made to a better standard with higher grade steels. Their a little more expensive (not heaps) than off the shelf Lucas or no-brand ones but much much much higher quality.

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789dead6.jpg

close-up in case no-one saw the renactment of the opening of the Grand Canyon! (pic courtesy of Newsuba's collection)

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 JoKer said:

789dead6.jpg

close-up in case no-one saw the renactment of the opening of the Grand Canyon! (pic courtesy of Newsuba's collection)

Ouch...

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 pl0x']

I talked to a chap at a car sales place, the sales man has a subi rally car, i mentioned cracking discs with 4 pots and he said to get 2nd rotors from wreckers etc and get them skimmed, then they have been heated treated already and stay stronger? ideas?

Bollocks.

Skimming is not the same as heat treating and definitely won't increase rotor strength.

All skimming does is remove uneven material from the rotor, leaving it thinner and more prone to warping.

I think he means to get original rotors, due to shit quality replacements.

Get brembo replacement OEM rotors. The DBA rotors and most OEM replacments, Lucas TWR etc are shit quality steel made in China.

Brembo rotors are made to a better standard with higher grade steels. Their a little more expensive (not heaps) than off the shelf Lucas or no-brand ones but much much much higher quality.

Where'd that info come from ?

Like Brembo, TRW/Lucas are also big OEM suppliers so their replacements should be up to scratch.

They can't be any worse than genuine Subaru replacements, which are pretty crap to begin with.

[quote name='subieboy said:

Ouch...

Yeah, good thing it didn't happen out on the track.

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 newsuba']

[quote name='subieboy said:

Ouch...

/quote]

Yeah, good thing it didn't happen out on the track.

I was wondering where that happened - had visions of some bad things happening... :'(

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DBA are manufactured in OZ not china as mentioned ?

I have fitted a set of DBA cross drilled to my parents V8 Calais and with them fitted + some bendix ultimate pads the car went from no brakes to above average brakes

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+1 for DBA being good. Brakes went from crap to good with them (slotted discs and base model pads all round). Although I was running endless pads (apparently so named for the endless pressure you need to apply to stop the car) before this. That was also on an EF Falcon.

Before the 'endless' pads I was running bendix ultimates. Long story short they were the uber shiznits. They lasted numerous track days and almost 40,000 road km without a hitch, worst I got was a bad smell coming off the track. That was on the stock discs with the dust protectors still in the standard mags (Airflow? Who needs airflow?).

I need to do the discs on my legacy, as well as the RF outer CV joint. I might have to do a tutorial for the CV. I might also try and out-do you for a brakes one though...

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Used this guide today, very handy gave me the confidence needed to complete what is a very simjple task.

Cheers for the time taken putting it up Joker.

  • Like 1

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 newsuba']

[quote name='pl0x said:

I talked to a chap at a car sales place, the sales man has a subi rally car, i mentioned cracking discs with 4 pots and he said to get 2nd rotors from wreckers etc and get them skimmed, then they have been heated treated already and stay stronger? ideas?

/quote]

Bollocks.

Skimming is not the same as heat treating and definitely won't increase rotor strength.

All skimming does is remove uneven material from the rotor, leaving it thinner and more prone to warping.

no not the skimming, the fact that they have already been very well heat treated on a normal car

so when you go to chuck them on your rally/track car you can go hard straight away not have to bed them in?

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 pl0x']

[quote name='pl0x said:

I talked to a chap at a car sales place, the sales man has a subi rally car, i mentioned cracking discs with 4 pots and he said to get 2nd rotors from wreckers etc and get them skimmed, then they have been heated treated already and stay stronger? ideas?

/quote]

Bollocks.

Skimming is not the same as heat treating and definitely won't increase rotor strength.

All skimming does is remove uneven material from the rotor, leaving it thinner and more prone to warping.

no not the skimming, the fact that they have already been very well heat treated on a normal car

so when you go to chuck them on your rally/track car you can go hard straight away not have to bed them in?

That theory has its merits, especially when using the rotors on something like a rally car as often you don't get a decent opportunity to bed the in and give the rotors one or two full heat cycles if you've swapped them in a mad rush between stages. But on my roadcar I'd choose new rotors as they should be at full thickness and should last longer if you prepare them correctly. For proper rally/racecar prep, you should heat cycle (bed in) new rotors (even if they are going to sit in the spare parts bin for months) beforehand so that they are ready to go in when you need them.

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Guest keltik
 pl0x said:

no not the skimming, the fact that they have already been very well heat treated on a normal car

so when you go to chuck them on your rally/track car you can go hard straight away not have to bed them in?

From what i understand, whenever you change pads or rotors your supposed to give them a couple heat cycles to transfer pad material onto the rotors. So really you should get your rotors skimmed whenever you change pad compounds, and should do a couple heat cycles whether your refitting skimmed rotors or new ones.

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Only snag is skimming takes material off the rotor, potentially leading to hot spots and warping etc.

So putting them through a couple of heat cycles could be the kiss of death.

Not so much a problem with true race rotors, which are a lot thicker than road rotors.

For a raodcar Koom has the right advice.

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just abit of info , you should always crack the nipple on the caliper when pushing the pisons back because the fluid thats in the piston has been hot / cold , hot / cold and it absorbs moisture so you want to bleed it out so fresh fluid fills the caliper , also if you make sure the nipple is at the top not at the bottom when pushing fluid out you wont get any air back in and wont need to bleed your brakes . and with new pads it pays to drive to about 50km/h then brake hard but dont completly stop , do this 5 or 6 times to bed them in , it heats them and sets the glue in the pads

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Another tip, if you put a flat head between the pad and disc before you undo any bolts you can move the piston enough to get it back on later. Saves messing around with g clamps and multi grips.

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Or you could just use a big hammer and bash the pistons back.

Ffs buy a g clamp and do it right..

  • Like 1

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 madmike said:

Or you could just use a big hammer and bash the pistons back.

Ffs buy a g clamp and do it right..

nah tnt would be more fun :D

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I have drilled disks, and there are TINY cracks from some of the holes, say 2-3mm long. Serious?

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 Divine said:

I have drilled disks, and there are TINY cracks from some of the holes, say 2-3mm long. Serious?

I dunno about serious but that's pretty much what all drilled discs end up doing...

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