Dumb Question Thread!

[Jambun]

 lachlan said:

checked the hub nut is tight ? jacked it up and given the wheel a good boot back n forward? . centre diff problems cant be traced to an individual wheel . and if you mean front diff then even that only narrows it to both front wheels

Negative to the above. Handbrake I should be able to check/tighten the nut without it spinning?

I have checked for play in the past and wasn't any but I'll give it a hoon and yes I meant front, not centre.

@ADIKT, literally got balanced two days ago and I had the same phenomenon with my other set of rims.

[ADIKT]

Me and Spencer had a problem like that with my gf8. But would do it at any speed though. Was the cv

[Jambun]

 

I was able to spin FL tire and have FR tire turn in the opposite direction, but FL tire wasn't turning when I was spinning FR tire. Is it normal?

If the axle CV joint has failed some how which allows a wheel to free wheel it turn freely with no movement transferred to the gear box and other wheel then - you have a CV joint that has failed. Any good shop re booting your axle should be able to tell you right away if the CV joint is OK or mucked up by road grime and debri which case OEM axle replacement is the best approach as you've read the other forums about after market cheap axle replacements causing a whole other list of issues.

This is off an Outback forum but it describes what I've discovered. Everything off the ground, all spinning freely except for the above problem.

Checked the boots and nothings ripped but at 160K odd wear and tear could bite. Next silly question OEM or aftermarket?

[Percy]

 Marky said:

Its the latter option sorry, not really something in the realm of worthwhile-doing-ness by any stretch. Literally a far simpler & better option to trade up to the newer model or just go single turbo on the older model (which is one of the simplest "big" changes you can do with any suby - it's not a big job at all and well, well worth the trouble)

I thought that was the case.

Oh well, I'll have to limit changing things to those not needing a tune afterwards then!

[boon]

 Jambun said:

I've got a clunking feel from my front left wheel (passenger) at realllllllllllllly slow de/acceleration in a straight line. Done figure 8s in a parking lot and nada, the only time its ever happened when turning is FULL lock to the right trying to back down a tight corner in my driveway.

Most likely be the CV or is there a possibility of it going deeper ie FRONT, not centre , diff?

Ever get any wierdness from the brakes? Mine did some strange stuff that was quite hard to pin down, was the hub bearing.

The GDBs weight + good handling = lots of force and the little 5x100 hub just doesn't deal with it - that's why the V9 onward are 5x114.3 and a bigger bearing.

[patrickc22]

What are the pros and cons of snorkelectomy

[Jambun]

Besides a little bit of squealing, nothing I don't think is out of the ordinary.

[Bumpty]

Was megameet this yr in Timaru and when do we know about next yrs megameet location?

[Timmah]

 Bumpty said:

Was megameet this yr in Timaru and when do we know about next yrs megameet location?

There's Flat-Natz this September in Fielding.

MM15 was cancelled.

[Greaver]

Silly question time, V6 RA has slight hesitation at 20% throttle around 3000rpm and nowhere else, more pronounced in lower gears and barely at all in fifth

Any ideas what this could be? Pulls fine makes boost fine, if I hold the revs at 3000rpm in gear I get little pops every 5 or so seconds

[boon]

 Greaver said:

Silly question time, V6 RA has slight hesitation at 20% throttle around 3000rpm and nowhere else, more pronounced in lower gears and barely at all in fifth

Any ideas what this could be? Pulls fine makes boost fine, if I hold the revs at 3000rpm in gear I get little pops every 5 or so seconds

How old is your fuel?

Sounds like a little miss.

[Greaver]

Fresh as, injector cleaner maybe?

[Marky]

 patrickc22 said:

What are the pros and cons of snorkelectomy

Pros, makes more noise, goes a little bit better

Cons, makes more noise, goes a little bit better

[Marky]

Greaver - might be the afm being not great no more, quite often it shows at very low load but not up top / heavy foot

Is the idle smooth as? Can be hard to pick a bad idle or stumble over subaruburble

[tydon]

ok so i have a really big problem my gearbox mount on the passanger side the 17mm bolt that goes in has broken. i dunno if its the thread or what but the bolt slops up and down and wont twist out so now it clunks around. where does that bolt go to on the inside of the car? is it just a nut welded to the inside of the car or what i need help please lol

[lachlan]

isnt that the "chassis rail" part of the car ? ie its sealed ? and no you cant cut a hole in it .

[tydon]

im not sure its this bolt here

on the passanger side does it come up behind the ecu?

[Koom]

 lachlan said:

isnt that the "chassis rail" part of the car ? ie its sealed ? and no you cant cut a hole in it .

Yep, that's correct.

A holesaw is the only way to get access from inside the car. Dunno about the legality of doing so though.

[tydon]

 Koom said:

Yep, that's correct.

A holesaw is the only way to get access from inside the car. Dunno about the legality of doing so though.

ohhh crap not good then how do i fix it ? any ideas? the bolts just flopping around loosely and i cant get it out

[Koom]

Sounds like the bolt has stripped the thread off half the shaft. Could try cutting the head off and pushing the left overs into the chassis rail. Then hopefully the thread on the nut isn't completely poked and can be saved with a thread chaser or a tap. They're a fine thread that not many places round here seem to deal with. If you do this and just try another bolt in the hole, take extreme care to not destroy what remains of the thread. If it gets tight, take it out and fix the thread before putting a bolt in.

[tydon]

the things is i can push the bolt right up flush with the body the bolt has about 10mm play up and down so il try cutting head and pushing up into body.

and if i cut a hole in the chassis inside car its not going to be seen i could pull bolt out after cutting replace the thread with a nut welded to the body inside chassis rail can cover the hole back up with a plate? if worst comes to worst

Edited June 1, 2015 by tydon

[sobanoodle]

$60 "one man" brake bleeding kits on TM - any good?

[Zenki]

 Koom']Dunno about the legality of doing so though.

Also unsure about the legality of cutting a hole into a chassis rail (I can't find anything explicit, but even if it's legal it's not a smart idea), but as far as patching the hole back up goes: welding may require repair certification due to heating of chassis rail. Worst-case scenario, Subaru does not allow welding of chassis rail in repair spec and/or you can't get one. Kind of stuffed at that point.

[quote name=sobanoodle said:

$60 "one man" brake bleeding kits on TM - any good?

URL="http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19200-Brake-Bleeding-Kit/dp/B0009OMY9M/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1433147454&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=lisle+brake+blee]This[/url] is probably better and cheaper.

One man bleeding never works as well as with two people, would recommend doing it with two and borrowing a mate/relative/neighbor's kid if you can arrange it.

Edited June 1, 2015 by Zenki

[tydon]

 Zenki said:

Also unsure about the legality of cutting a hole into a chassis rail (I can't find anything explicit, but even if it's legal it's not a smart idea), but as far as patching the hole back up goes: welding may require repair certification due to heating of chassis rail. Worst-case scenario, Subaru does not allow welding of chassis rail in repair spec and/or you can't get one. Kind of stuffed at that point.

crap mite have to just cut head of bolt push it through and then retap for a bigger hole and put a bigger bolt in?

[Percy]

 sobanoodle said:

$60 "one man" brake bleeding kits on TM - any good?

Like this one?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/auction-896018487.htm

I have a Powerbuilt one, dont think it was $60, more like $20.

Not as flash as the one above, but it does the trick, still have to manually pump the pedal and check the reservoir though.

Only took me about 45 mins to bleed the whole car, and that included getting it into the air and back down, which is a pain cos my jack doesnt fit under the front...