Dumb Question Thread!

[megamac]

 Timmah said:

One after the turbo on the downpipe.

My downpipe doesn't have the hole for one there. Extractors do though, wonder if it'd be any good there

[GC8E2DD]

 SpeedySub said:

Can I put a set of 225/40/R16 tyres on a standard set of 16 inch Legacy rims? At the moment it has 205/50/R16s. Will they fit without any issues?

How wide are the Legacy rims? I'm guessing either 6 1/2" or 7". And is the factory size 205/55/R16?

[pmkhoi]

Looking for a set of wheel nuts with locks (for security + the look). Found this on trademe, what do you guys think, mainly concern about the quality/safety factor then

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=942316794

[hijacka]

 pmkhoi said:

Looking for a set of wheel nuts with locks (for security + the look). Found this on trademe, what do you guys think, mainly concern about the quality/safety factor then

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=942316794

They are alloy so are illegal

[hijacka]

 megamac said:

My downpipe doesn't have the hole for one there. Extractors do though, wonder if it'd be any good there

Yeah shouldn't make difference upstream or downstream, just as long as it can reach the plug

[Guest]

Not recommended to run o2 sensors pre turbo.

[Marky]

Legacy ones are in the manifold

[Guest]

 Marky said:

Legacy ones are in the manifold

Just what innovate and aem recommend. Both run bosch who seem to be market leaders on o2 stuff. I was tempted to run mine in headers for less lag but thought better of it.

[pmkhoi]

 hijacka said:

They are alloy so are illegal

Oh crap, bad news for me . So some thing steel nuts like this one should be fine aye

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/other/auction-943581514.htm

[Rosssub]

Mainly for sensor life/temperature reasons isn't it?

Reversed scenario but I'm still running my original upstream BH5B O2 sensor, now downstream with the version 6 STI ECU. Only thing I've noticed is a very light power surge while warming up during light throttle cruising.

When the new DP and genuine V6 STI O2 sensor goes in (shorter cable), I'll have to extend the plug wiring about 400-500mm.

[hijacka]

 Rosssub said:

Mainly for sensor life/temperature reasons isn't it?

Reversed scenario but I'm still running my original upstream BH5B O2 sensor, now downstream with the version 6 STI ECU. Only thing I've noticed is a very light power surge while warming up during light throttle cruising.

When the new DP and genuine V6 STI O2 sensor goes in (shorter cable), I'll have to extend the plug wiring about 400-500mm.

With a twin turbo you have 2 downpipes so its going to read better in the manifold. Early single turbo leggys have them in the manifold, perhaps they found better results with them mounted in the downpipe? considering how close they are to the turbo and how well they survive imo i don't think it will last any less than one in the upstream .. i know the sensor it self can take up or downstream but don't know comparisons. Air fuel ratio sensor is a different story.. which is probably why v7 sti have them upstream you would have to mount it 1 metre from the turbo for it last and that would be after the cat so its not really a option for a new car. Thats just my own thoughts not factual at all lol

Edited September 4, 2015 by hijacka

[megamac]

Ah right - the guy who sold me my motor told me it was from an early model WRX, I was assuming v1/2 sort of thing, but due to having the flange in the manifold would signify that my motor is probably from a BC legacy or something?

Yeah was wondering what that sensor in my dp was, is that an air fuel ratio sensor? it's right down by where it bolts up to mid pipe.

[Rosssub]

Temp sensor for the Cat or rear O2 depending on what model DP you have?

[AAAAAAAAARRRa]

I'm pretty sure v1/2 wrx also have the O2 sensor in the headers on the drivers side, meaning the one in your downpipe would be cat temp

[patrickc22]

I have a 2000 legacy gtb Rev c and quite often lately the fuel gauge is playing up when I start car it stays on empty even after just fulling up it will stay on emyty fuel light will come on and it will start going up every slowly and fuel light will stay on until it hits full

Dose anyone know why it is doing it

[megamac]

Bung sender unit?

And yeah v7 dp. Will swap for a v3/4 one if anyone has?

[Rosssub]

 patrickc22 said:

I have a 2000 legacy gtb Rev c and quite often lately the fuel gauge is playing up when I start car it stays on empty even after just fulling up it will stay on emyty fuel light will come on and it will start going up every slowly and fuel light will stay on until it hits full

Dose anyone know why it is doing it

Check the loom plug under the passengers rear seat, clean/dry. The fuel pump and fuel level sensor run through that plug:

Also the main plug on the fuel pump assembly lid (drivers side rear seat). Plug could be wet (bottom of pic):

Then the final fuel level sensor plug inside the tank:

The fuel level sensor itself in the tank could be corroded or dirty and playing up:

Or the clusters gauge is stuffed. Could pull the cluster apart to look for dry/cracked solder joins.

BE/BH fuel pump/fuel level sensor removal:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?45977-Changing-BE-BH-Fuel-Pump&p=578671#post578671

Edited September 7, 2015 by Rosssub

[BINKZ]

Hi guys

My car has a delay between turning the key and cranking over. Sometimes it won't even crank and i have to turn the ignition back off and back on again.

I have checked the battery, the earths and cabling that i can get to.

My next option was to check the starter motor and ignition switch.

Anybody got any other thoughts?

[slystiguy]

 megamac said:

Ah right - the guy who sold me my motor told me it was from an early model WRX, I was assuming v1/2 sort of thing, but due to having the flange in the manifold would signify that my motor is probably from a BC legacy or something?

Yeah was wondering what that sensor in my dp was, is that an air fuel ratio sensor? it's right down by where it bolts up to mid pipe.

I can confirm that v1-2 run the sensor in the manifold. They are very similar in specs to the bc engine and one wouldn't necessarily be better than the other (except for the v2 sti ra which comes with shim under heads). The main differences are seen in ecu changes but the later models may flow a wee bit more. Bc engines usually have an alloy filler neck and alloy breather covers where as the wrx has plastic(easiest way to tell). They all should have rocker covers with subaru and some lines on them. All run hydraulic heads which are the main downside. Some are closed deck some are not. Cross hatching around the alternator/crank sensor and also the oil filter area are ways to check if it's CDB.

And just to clarify for anyone reading, the o2 sensor should be something like a 22mm 6point swivel bolt with 3 wires coming out of it which run into a 4 pin plug. The exhaust temperature sensor probe is small in comparison at around the 6-8mm(not sure off the top of my head) and has heat shielded insulation around it(looks similar to braided lines). I've read/been told they only are required if you run a stock downpipe and it will turn a light on in the dash when the cat overheats. I can't confirm if this is true of false but i don't run one on mine and it hasn't giving me any issues.

semi related - my ver 3 sti which was running aftermarket headers and downpipe ran the sensor in the headers. I'm not sure if this is how they are normally setup.

[megamac]

Ah sweet as will be a v1/2 motor then. I'll run my o2 in the manifold and just see how it goes. Still a tad worried about the slight coolant pressurization I'm getting, think I may have small head gasket issues

[Rosssub]

 BINKZ said:

Hi guys

My car has a delay between turning the key and cranking over. Sometimes it won't even crank and i have to turn the ignition back off and back on again.

I have checked the battery, the earths and cabling that i can get to.

My next option was to check the starter motor and ignition switch.

Anybody got any other thoughts?

Have you got an immobilizer fitted? Yeah check cables at the starter motor out, main battery cable and ignition starter signal wire plug.

My GTB has a clutch switch above the clutch pedal that I've bridged it so it'll start without the clutch in, if you have one the clutch switch could be loose or playing up.

[patrickc22]

Thank you for all your info rossub

[BINKZ]

 Rosssub said:

Have you got an immobilizer fitted? Yeah check cables at the starter motor out, main battery cable and ignition starter signal wire plug.

My GTB has a clutch switch above the clutch pedal that I've bridged it so it'll start without the clutch in, if you have one the clutch switch could be loose or playing up.

It's not the immobilizer and i'm pretty sure car doesnt have a clutch switch so wont be that either.

Will check the wiring once i look up some diagrams as to what im actually doing haha

[Rosssub]

In this pic you can see the 2 wires going to the starter motor. The bigger one that's bolted to it is the main power feed from the battery. The smaller wire is the ignition signal wire, it's only a spade connector so could be loose:

[BINKZ]

Brilliant as always Ross! Thanks