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Dumb Question Thread!


Jambun
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My turbo f**ked up, looking to replace it soon. Which turbo can I get for the V8 WRX? Did some research, the stock one should be TD04L-13T but the VF30 and VF34 also do the job aye. Search around people only list as TD04, is there any real difference between TD04 turbo line? Trying to get the VF30 but seems my budget running low atm, haha.

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 pmkhoi said:
My turbo f**ked up, looking to replace it soon. Which turbo can I get for the V8 WRX? Did some research, the stock one should be TD04L-13T but the VF30 and VF34 also do the job aye. Search around people only list as TD04, is there any real difference between TD04 turbo line? Trying to get the VF30 but seems my budget running low atm, haha.

Factory is a TD04 or some description. And yes they do differ between the years.

A VF30/34 would be an upgrade, but you'd need the oil and water lines to suit the VF series. And definitely have your ECU reflashed to accommodate the change.

I have my TD04 from my v8 WRX that I could part with if you get desperate. I am in Chch and freight would be a little $$$.

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 Marky said:
Several reasons

First thing to test - does the secondary BOV leak (the one which is attached on a U bend sort of thing to the secondary turbo)

hey tried it with second bov removed (had hoses bunged) still the same issue. Any other ideas?

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 bd5leggy said:
hey tried it with second bov removed (had hoses bunged) still the same issue. Any other ideas?

Try a boost leak test. Block the intake off near the AFM:

Fuel_pump_ECU_fix_014.jpg

Then use an air compressor to pump 10-15psi into the intake manifold. Any leaks will be obvious:

Fuel_pump_ECU_fix_015.jpg

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 Rosssub said:
You will need a BE/BH rev A or Rev B (98-00) engine, both running at 8.5:1cr. Compression bumps up from rev C onwards so it would ping it's tits off running on your original ECU.

Or if going to single turbo straight away, a complete version 5/6 WRX engine or complete version 5/6 STI engine will bolt straight in with the matching ECU. You just need to swap a few pins at the ECU, all covered in the single turbo threads on here.

I've tried looking around but I can't seem to get my head around all the different versions and engines that correspond to those chassis codes. Say I were to get a EJ20 out of a GC8 would that bolt in as long as I got the GC8 ECU with it, and would a manual Gbox from a BE5 legacy bolt up to it as well? Sorry I'm just used to Nissans which are kinda like Legos in the way that everything bolts into pretty much everything so I was kind of hoping for the same haha.

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 ZeroNZ said:
I've tried looking around but I can't seem to get my head around all the different versions and engines that correspond to those chassis codes. Say I were to get a EJ20 out of a GC8 would that bolt in as long as I got the GC8 ECU with it, and would a manual Gbox from a BE5 legacy bolt up to it as well? Sorry I'm just used to Nissans which are kinda like Legos in the way that everything bolts into pretty much everything so I was kind of hoping for the same haha.

Gearbox will bolt up perfectly. You'll need a version 5/6 engine/ECU so the ECU plugs match up.

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 boon said:
Reasonably sure it's the fuel vapour accumulator thing - one of the tubes will go to the engine bay, to a solenoid that opens when the engine is warm enough.

Will try trace the hoses and see where the come from / where they go to.

If it is.... can I delete it?

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In my Legacy BE5D, I put my foot down and as soon as the primary hits like 8 psi, the car starts lurching and won't gain any more power. Driving without boost runs normally. Whenever I load the engine up, just lurches and won't gain power.

Just had 1 coil pack replaced, would changing spark plugs fix this? They've been in there for at least 40,000 k's This started once a coil pack gave out, and was replaced with a 2nd hand one.

I can't drive up hills :(

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