What have you done to your car today?

[Gripless]

seems s209 uses the auto paddles as water spray which is what I had planned.
https://techinfo.subaru.com/stis/doc/ownerManual/MSA5M1923K_STIS.pdf

[Andy_Mac]

7 hours ago, Gripless said:

Seems they are also in Hyundai cars as well so more options in NZ wreckers.

but the later 2019 units had recalls 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCRIT-19V812-3365.pdf

 

https://epasperformance.com/products/mopar-a-body

This was similar to what I initially thought, use steering angle sensor as input. The greater the rate of change the more assist.

Also says only 10 amp average during use so could get away without new alternator.

That mopar way seems like a heap more effort.
The Volvo should be just a matter of new supply and return lines then power.
Some people even run it with no signal stuff working so it goes into a sort of limp mode and just runs a fixed percentage assist, something like 60-70%

 

It would be interesting to see real world amp draws on the Volvo, I’d assume it’s usually quite low and only sees anything particularly high during full lock at crawling speeds where there’s probably enough grunt in the battery to negate the shortcoming for short bursts. 

[Gripless]

Holden astra and most ev cars have similar pump and tank in one units as well. 
 

edit.. plus 

Audi Seat Skoda Volkswagen POLO FOX LUPO 

like

6Q0423155AE

6Q0423155AB

6Q0423156E

Edited December 20, 2024 by Gripless

[Gripless]

Ordered 6mm thick SiO2 Silica oxide aerogel sheet to wrap downpipe.

It’s classed as incombustible, good for 800c and at 10mm thickness can reduce 650c on one side down to 50c on the other.

its hydrophobic so won’t absorb liquid and chemical resistant as well.

 

Then going to them wrap the aerogel in common adhesive glass-fibre cloth with alloy so it has abrasion resistance.

 

The exhaust is already ceramic coated but it’s still getting too hot near the steering rack and both the brake and clutch master cylinders.

 

[Gripless]

Removed drivers door window switches as passengers switch is busted.

 

Pulled the top off and actual switch under rocker gets rough near the ends. Poured ethanol into the gaps and worked switch. Seems to have washed out whatever crud was inside.

 

It’s a Nissan part and reasonably common. Just harder to find in RHD but will order a replacement if it doesn’t work now it’s clean.

[Gripless]

Refitted windows switches and they all work again.

Very surprising as the passengers ones was so bad it felt like it was physically broken before taken apart. And once part the slider got stuck and felt like it had grit or bent contacts inside.
 

So I looked up some replacements overnight.

 

standard auto up/down drivers RHD

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005240228470.html

but found on the later Nissans they had higher model ones with auto for 2 or all 4 windows.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006046168940.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004633745295.html

 

this would be up to the body control module BCM but since there is no additional wiring for auto it could support the additional auto functions already.

 

 

 

 

[Gripless]

Two additional orders

 

1 cup holder foam from amayama

the 3 foam inserts for the cup holder and tray same as legacy and a few other models.

Just as the current ones are mostly just grit and the rectangle in the middle where the tape holds what’s left down.

 

When they arrive I’ll put them on an A4 sheet of paper and scan them with the measurements and centre points of the radius. Then have an admin host them here. That way you can just print them at home on paper and cut them out from foam, leather or whatever material. Plus you can pick coloured material if you wanted.

 

2 lighters sockets replaced with USB

Bits for inside the console box to tidy up the sockets etc. I have a USB lead for the iPhone/iPod link to the stereo that pokes through the AUX panel. Which is a 5x2.5cm cutout with a diagonal corner that’s Subaru used since the late 90’s. There is little option to replace this due to the size, so it’ll be covered over with this dual usb A and dual usb c with PD.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008187065950.html

That will connect to the cigarette lighter power wiring. The PD power delivery part will be helpful for charging a laptop a little at 20-30watts. They say 60watts but I suspect that’s only if you have 24v input.
The model I ordered has voltage display as well.

 

 

 

The console box lighter socket will be removed since the power draw from the above will be near the factory rating of the old lighter. The hole will be filled  by and usb to usb cable for the stereo. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007137472845.html

 

 

 

 

Since lighter sockets are pretty useless the one in front of the gear shift is being replaced as well. With a usb A and usb c with PD and QC3 for phones. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006823887384.html
it also has a button to press to show current voltage on a multi colour segment display more like old air fuel ratio meter. It should be only illuminated after first button press, but it’s low down out of eyeliner for night driving anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

Final USB is usb A female to usb c female panel. That will mount near glove box and connect to ecu tuning cable. That way it’s tidy and I don’t need to buy a new ecu to usb c plug if that is ever an option. Will print a label for cover that says ecu and tuck it away slightly out of view.  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006704300239.html Last one in the list.

 

 

Edited December 26, 2024 by Gripless

[Gripless]

LED indicator bulbs arrived.

 

TLDR; very bright for modern clear lenses, for the older cars likely ideal as does fill the reflector.

Will order the white ones next for reverse lights as they are very bright.

I lied they fast blink, maybe due to side mirrors being led as well. 
Need new LED supported flasher relay now. Which is an 8 pin unit

Subaru part 81980-50030

toyota part 066500-4650

 

 

 

Just fitted the rear two only as can’t be bothered pulling the battery, airbox and intake to do the front ones.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005131707706.html

Yellow

7440 T20 7443

for 08 hatch the above fit.

 

They are very very bright, do… fast flash and fill the whole reflector.

I wouldn’t want to be looking at them on a rainy night. They are the same as annoying Audi ones before they went to the animated led strips.

 

They light up the some of the brake light and the ground as well. This isn’t new as the bulb did the same just the increased brightness means in shade you can see the effect. The bulbs did this at night clearly, but in shade or underground carparks you didn’t notice it. Now other than sunlight you notice the effect.

May have to cut the tint back another 5mm on the sides to see if that stops the brakes lighting up as much. Not that I think it will fail a WOF and increases visibility from side as it not just the tiny wing mirror ones.

 

 

The silver ring around the base is alloy, while the vented part is plastic, so it isn’t reliant on anodising to stop shorting the connector.

Edited January 1 by Gripless

[viperguy]

Well not today (and sure as hell not in one day), but playing catchup:

 

Does replacing all driveline/transmission/engine bushings/mounts with Group N STI, delicious pink pillow-ball STI lateral links and trailing arms, Ohlins Road & Track coilovers count?

 

 

 

Edited December 30, 2024 by viperguy

[Gripless]

5 hours ago, viperguy said:

Well not today (and sure as hell not in one day), but playing catchup:

 

Does replacing all driveline/transmission/engine bushings/mounts with Group N STI, delicious pink pillow-ball STI lateral links and trailing arms, Ohlins Road & Track coilovers count?

 

 

Damn looks nice!

[Gripless]

Measured temps after long drive, did a small full boost section but that was 15 mins before measuring.

 

intercooler top mount throttle side 43c

rad and killer b upper tank. 94c

intake

- turbo side 68c was hotter after 10 min warm up before insulation washers

- passengers side 54c 

turbo

- compressor side maybe 60-70 didn’t write it down, but water cooled core and upper res are next to it.

- hot side and down pipe hpc coated 297c

 

tested new aerogel insulation with flames measuring 570c and it went from white to a grey/tan tint. But that maybe just the soot. Either way it held the temp for a few seconds after removing the flame, but the other side was still room temp.

Has little smell after heating, so better than glass fibre wrap.

 

Next will cut section and see if it soaks up liquid, and if it’ll make the oil etc burn easier once absorbed.

 

 

Have a plan for cheap easy brake and clutch master cylinder heat shielding on the way too. Wont be needed once exhaust is wrapped, but maybe useful for others and race cars.

 

 

[viperguy]

21 hours ago, Gripless said:

Damn looks nice!

Handles a little better too 😂

[Gripless]

Fitted reverse LED.

Easy job as little hatches in the rear hatch to access them. Since they are foam seal light clusters the bulbs have no o-ring to get stuck.

The reverse lamps come on with engine off as long as you have double tapped start button without the clutch in. Made it easy to check they worked.

 

Fitted new fog or spot light bulbs. 
Both are accessible from the wheel liner if you turn the wheel full lock.

There are 3 black plastic panel clips on the wheel liner lower section that is outside the bumper.
peal back liner as far as you can. About 15cm of the upper section that inside the metal body work is enough.

 

Plug is red/brown and has a single center push release close to the wire end. It was easy push, no noise clip, then slide off without having to hold it down.

 

Bulb holder is tan and plug faces downwards and you rotate the plug inwards to undo. So they rotate differently on each side. Eg clockwise driver right side. Counterclockwise on passengers left side.

The OEM spotlights are recessed so it can only turn the correct direction and acts as guide to put them back in as well.

Holders have 3 equal keyed tabs that are a tight fit so once rotated still needed a fair bit of wriggling to start sliding backwards and out.

The replacements one I put in came with new holders that had far smaller tabs so much easier to get in/out.

 

On the sti the side vents allow you to see in to the back of the lamps. Clearly of right, but left has the washer bottle etc in the way. Still not hard to do just a little more care needed to get bulbs around them without touching anything.

I did test one side of each and it was obvious the old bulbs had faded to more yellow and brightness had dropped a lot. Old bulb was blue tinted glass and only bulbs in car that don’t have Japanese writing or branding.

[Gripless]

Ran aux cable for stereo to centre console in preparation for airplay wifi unit. It’s an old single din unit and aux is via an adaptor via CD changer input.

 

Finally fixed the door lock in the inner handle. When the door was replaced from the attempt to screwdriver the lock they used the lock and cable from the new door. Which has a smaller ball on the lock the the main handle.

cheap fix since only used heat shrink to cover the small ball with 3 layers and now it clips into place and works fine.

[McMatty]

Wired cruise control into my 07 BP, then carried on drive line swapping my 02 BH, fit new diff axle seals and o rings, re assembled rh front hub, stripped the threads on my brembo caliper 🙃 and re fit the starter.

[Gripless]

Almost removed headliner so can install bumpy foam and layer of speaker stuffing to block heat and reduce cabin drone.

Plus broke a clip on back of one of the roof handles.

Just need to remove one front seat belt to get the thing out tomorrow.

 

 

Fitted adjustable flasher relay and set to a reasonable speed.

removing the old unit for the clip was the hardest part. Even after unclipping the relay stack from the main fuse box.

Have a fixed rate one arriving next week as well.

 

Removed the fender vent panels and got some rust primer to seal edges the larger cutouts needed to get more airflow.

https://www.iwsti.com/threads/fender-rear-engine-vent-optimizing-performance.191959/

[Gripless]

Headliner out, no need to remove seat belt.

On the b pillar set the seat belt height to half way. undo the top bolt under the little panel.

Slide up 15mm or so the you pull the bottom outwards over the white round trim push clips and slide it down until seatbelt won’t let it go further.

Each A pillars are has wiring for lights, unplug from by dash, and cut tape on the plastic holder as the wires stay with the headliner when it comes out.
 

Will be installing this tomorrow, after testing it this week.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007251604620.html
 

Ok firstly it’s not 2cm thick, it’s 1cm after a few days sitting unrolled. There is no way it’ll ever get to 2cm. So between 2mm and 10mm overall.

The backing was clear plastic not pictured paper. After backing removed it does stretch well so will conform to curves nicely.

The glue on the back seems strong enough. If you stick it on the rubber foam rips apart before the glue let’s go. Could be a task to remove or clean up in the future.

Though it is closed cell and doesn’t absorb water.

It has a slight fireworks or match head smell to it.

When set on fire with lighter it self extinguishes so that’s good.

 

Needs 2 rolls to do the roof. Since it will be above airbags roof between front and rear heavy beams it 1550mm and 1200mm wide.

 

Also have speaker fill that is 30mm thick to cover the whole back of the headliner to replace the single 30mm thick woollen block of100x400mm.

This will be be 960mm wide as to not go down the side and cover the curtain airbag path.

It’s also well away from the pyrotechnics which are in the c pillars so should be fine.

I will test burn some to see what it does and if it’s bad then may run some 50mm wide alloy tape along the sides.

 

Will test fit with fill and if it’s does bulge anywhere then it’s headliner out again and glue the fill in place.

 

All this is due to the car being black and roof get over 80c measured outside. So as soon answer the AC is off the heat starts to come through the headliner. Could also vinyl wrap the roof the same black so the vinyl insulates the metal.

 

Glued some metal u screw to the fender vents where the mud flaps have been screwed into. There is a random assortment or screws from previous owner. One front is short self tappers. The other is so long it screwed through the inner metal of the guard.

 

Edited January 13 by Gripless

[Gripless]

Rust removal, luckily only superficial, but now I have to paint things.

 

While putting the sound deadening in the roof I found a rusty area.

 

It’s right near the back quarter window unjust before the hatch inner support. It’s started in the roof sheet and moved down to the seam of the car. Main blistered point was on roof 12x15mm, but after scraping it a whole lot and adding rust converter, it’s actually not gone anywhere and the seam rust was only the very outer edge over 6cm.
The metal is pitted but not very deep.
 

Originally I was thinking it was a leak under the rails but now just that it was spatter from a spot weld that didn’t get clean and sealed.

 

That amount of blistering in a 90’s car would have been nearly through the metal. So not only does higher strength steel help crash safety it slows rust a whole lot.

 

Having now scraped the outside area under the roof rails a near the back where the seam sticks through. There is rust (surface only) under the very end. While is close to the inside rust it’s too minor and too far back to be the cause.
Mainly where the ends are coated in sealant as the go over the end and down the hatch. A 5-7mm area under the sealant was the worst I found and that was on the other side.

 

Now to leave it overnight to make sure all the converter is done.

Tomorrow is paint day. I’m bad at painting, and I got grey primer as was only for the inside initially. But the outside bits are under the rails and 20mm down the back seam that is hidden by the hatch and wing.

[Boltonator]

In the last week or two I have 

• Found the source of my knocking sound. It was the infamous Bilstein knock from severe stiction on the seal/bushings. It sounded awful when doing tight turns. I did the stop-gap fix of lifting the car up slightly and greasing the tubes. It took quite a lot of manipulation of the car on a hot day to diagnose it, I was thinking a sway bar bush was stuffed. 
• Done a 2300km road trip up to Auckland and back. First one in 3 years where there hasn't been some sort of minor issue. I removed the excess grease from the shocks when I got back. It'll be interesting to see how long it takes the knocking to return. 

My upcoming projects are to get the roof repainted (clear coat is crazing and deteriorating), change the accessory belts/pulley (car has just ticked over 160k km) and to fit a dash carpet as my dash is beyond stuffed. My goal is another 5 years from the car then it will be time to work toward getting something else. 

[Timmah]

On 10/01/2025 at 8:11 PM, Gripless said:

Headliner out, no need to remove seat belt.

On the b pillar set the seat belt height to half way. undo the top bolt under the little panel.

Slide up 15mm or so the you pull the bottom outwards over the white round trim push clips and slide it down until seatbelt won’t let it go further.

 

Will be installing this tomorrow, after testing it this week.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007251604620.html
 

Ok firstly it’s not 2cm thick, it’s 1cm after a few days sitting unrolled. There is no way it’ll ever get to 2cm. So between 2mm and 10mm overall.

The backing was clear plastic not pictured paper. After backing removed it does stretch well so will conform to curves nicely.

The glue on the back seems strong enough. If you stick it on the rubber foam rips apart before the glue let’s go. Could be a task to remove or clean up in the future.

Though it is closed cell and doesn’t absorb water.

It has a slight fireworks or match head smell to it.

When set on fire with lighter it self extinguishes so that’s good.

 

Needs 2 rolls to do the roof. Since it will be above airbags roof between front and rear heavy beams it 1550mm and 1200mm wide.

 

 

God I'd love to put sound deadening on the roof, but im far too paranoid that I'll create more interior rattles when removing trim an trying to put it back

[Gripless]

22 minutes ago, Timmah said:

God I'd love to put sound deadening on the roof, but im far too paranoid that I'll create more interior rattles when removing trim an trying to put it back

Very little trim comes out and it’s all bolted near top so can’t move due to airbags etc so not likely to rattle.

lights are also screwed in to roof so no new rattles for those either.

 

paranoid bit is bending the headliner when getting it out.

[Timmah]

32 minutes ago, Gripless said:

Very little trim comes out and it’s all bolted near top so can’t move due to airbags etc so not likely to rattle.

lights are also screwed in to roof so no new rattles for those either.

 

paranoid bit is bending the headliner when getting it out.

I don't think my WRX is as well put together as yours

[Gripless]

7 minutes ago, Timmah said:

I don't think my WRX is as well put together as yours

Well I’ve not driven the car yet but just in the car park the reflected sounds have dropped noticeably while installing it.

tapping of the treated vs untreated was obvious, not dead like the tar/rubber mat but no ring. Very surprised now much different given it’s so thin and light.

 

If the heat is reduced as well then will be wishing I did it years ago 😒

[Timmah]

41 minutes ago, Gripless said:

Well I’ve not driven the car yet but just in the car park the reflected sounds have dropped noticeably while installing it.

tapping of the treated vs untreated was obvious, not dead like the tar/rubber mat but no ring. Very surprised now much different given it’s so thin and light.

 

If the heat is reduced as well then will be wishing I did it years ago 😒

A friend put sound deadening on the fuel tank and said it helped a lot.. could be another place to think about.

[Gripless]

37 minutes ago, Timmah said:

A friend put sound deadening on the fuel tank and said it helped a lot.. could be another place to think about.

When empty it must resonate a lot.

Some old 80s luxury car a flatmate had the tank had a 3-4cm thick foam between rubber pad on top of the tank to reduce noise. So guess there is something to it.

But awd cars the tank is pretty solid since it has to clear the driveshaft.