What have you done to your car today?

[Dairusire]

I didn't do it today, but quite a few months ago lol. 

I finally figured out my shutdown issue on my Type RA. 
The issue was it would start fine, run perfectly during normal even spirited driving. 

When I'd go on track at say manfield, and start giving it some absolute spanking, about half track point the car would completely shutdown. I'd have to key off, and then key back on and away we'd go again. 
It was repeatable and I couldn't figure it out for the life of me while at the track. 

 

So, replaced the battery because A. it was old AF and dying easily. 

Thought it resolved issue up until a couple months later I was at a gymkhana event here in hastings and it died under, again, heavy load, but this time the battery light was now coming on. 

Sure as heck, I checked the voltage output on the alternator and I am getting bubkiss. 

Quickly dip home, pull out a crappy old looking spare alternator I had, remove the old alternator, and the terminal for the positive is absolutely COOKED, with the nut literally welded itself to the alternator... 
Slap this new alternator on, and rush back to do the last runs and fixed. Now to just do a cambelt/idler change as these are due. 

[THUNDA]

20 hours ago, Gripless said:

https://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/
has clear codes process in the post.

codes cleared

took it for a drive and code 24 popped up again after about 10minutes, wouldn’t let me boost fully and went all slowy 

Idle Air Control

looks like I’ll be pulling it out this weekend 

 

[Gripless]

2 hours ago, THUNDA said:

codes cleared

took it for a drive and code 24 popped up again after about 10minutes, wouldn’t let me boost fully and went all slowy 

Idle Air Control

looks like I’ll be pulling it out this weekend 

 

Time to pull out the multi meter and measure resistances. But doesn’t the IAC share some wiring with the o2 sensor maybe the old sensor blew a fuse or one of the ignition relays.

[THUNDA]

1 hour ago, Gripless said:

Time to pull out the multi meter and measure resistances. But doesn’t the IAC share some wiring with the o2 sensor maybe the old sensor blew a fuse or one of the ignition relays.

Hmmm yeah not sure, when car is on the IAC sensor receives 13.8v on the middle wire which is normal I think. It only faults when I decelerate for a long period (I.e down a hill) then it goes into low power when I accelerate more than half throttle the first time after the deceleration, then the check light turns off and it drives fire until the next deceleration 

[Gripless]

40 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

Hmmm yeah not sure, when car is on the IAC sensor receives 13.8v on the middle wire which is normal I think. It only faults when I decelerate for a long period (I.e down a hill) then it goes into low power when I accelerate more than half throttle the first time after the deceleration, then the check light turns off and it drives fire until the next deceleration 

Don’t you measure resistance on the iac solenoid pins to see if the coils  are still intact and measure the same.
also if you still have AC what happens when you turn it on, Does it still idle faster and slower again when AC off.

[THUNDA]

9 hours ago, Gripless said:

Don’t you measure resistance on the iac solenoid pins to see if the coils  are still intact and measure the same.
also if you still have AC what happens when you turn it on, Does it still idle faster and slower again when AC off.

Yup you are correct I just didn’t have the time to check when I had the bonnet up, was easy to check the middle wire feed in situe 

 

when ac comes on revs go low for a second then back up to normal, same with when radiator fans kick on. It’s working normally, it just faults after deceleration- I’m thinking it might just be gummed up inside the actual IAC valve but the spinny thing on top moves freely when I remove the sensor. Parry spares has a whole IAC so I’m gonna order that regardless as I’d like a spare 

[boon]

Went to tension the aircon belt due to it being a little squeaky, and the f***ing plastic adjuster thing split.

At least my local dealer had one in stock, and at a very reasonable price. Always makes me laugh how variable the pricing can be on random little OEM bits.

[THUNDA]

16 hours ago, Gripless said:

Don’t you measure resistance on the iac solenoid pins to see if the coils  are still intact and measure the same.
also if you still have AC what happens when you turn it on, Does it still idle faster and slower again when AC off.

 

IAC Resistance

Middle Pin (12V Feed) to Either side pin = 8.8Ohms

Right hand Pin to Left hand Pin = 18.6Ohms

 

Its weird because the check engine light comes on after coasting/decel, but now if i put my foot on the clutch and let the revs drop to idle the check engine light goes away and we are back to full power again

 

I put some CRC on the thing that sticks up after you remove the IAC Sensor and its super free / no jamming, i know there is a diaphram inside though maybe Its sticky or something, might just time to pull it off and give it a clean out 

 

Installed a new fuel filter today just because they were only $35 and the one in their looked at least 10 years old 

[THUNDA]

Now getting 

 

Code 43 Throttle switch fault

 

Arrrr I’m starting to remember why I tried not to drive my old one haha, nothing breaks if you don’t drive them 

[Gripless]

I checked the car park for any fresh oil patches.

[blitzd808]

22 hours ago, THUNDA said:

Now getting 

 

Code 43 Throttle switch fault

 

Arrrr I’m starting to remember why I tried not to drive my old one haha, nothing breaks if you don’t drive them 

not trying to be a cop out but any reason (besides cost i guess) you wouldnt just want to replace it with a Link? i did the same thing with my RS primarily because i got sick of all the CELs haha. Also slightly related, are you still running the old school coil packs? One thing that solved a number of 'gremlins' was going to the newer style coilpacks and deleting the old ignitor. 

[Gripless]

Fitted new steering column shroud that fits the paddles.

 

replaced the hatch release buttons as the main one has turned into goo.  Not hard except one nut jammed up under the wiper motor took a little finesse. Remove tail light 3 nuts per side. This reveals 1 plastic screw clip per side, but leave those until last. Do the 4 nuts on inside, then free up the wiring. Then go back and do those plastic screws. The wiring has a mounting clip that you could clip off the old one before the plastic screws. 

 

swapped the pump wiring on the dual pump setup chasing a fuel pressure issue. FYI the Dremel spanner fits the radium nuts under the wiring.

then the rechargeable light ran out so gave up for the day.

[Gripless]

Did some testing over the weekend.

After idling the car up to temperature in the car park with the bonnet open the intake on turbo side was hot while the other side was barely warm. Say 70c vs 30c between sides.

 

Given the hood was open and hadn’t been making boost the turbo wasn’t very hot leads me to suspect the coolant top tank since that would be at 90c according to the coolant temp sensor.

 

The tank is a killer b one so all alloy and the mount is a 6mm heavy plate bolted to the manifold so it transfers heat well compared to old thin steel or newer plastic ones.

https://www.killerbmotorsport.net/shop/utcrv2an-b-upper-turbo-coolant-reservoir-v2-with-an-fittings-631

 

 

added some thermal washers above and below mounting plate and Heatsink to the top threads of the bolt. Total cost around $10

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/zenith-fibre-washer-suits-5-16-m8-30pk_p2310760

 

will it make any difference driving, likely not as only time that intake air will be slow moving is in heavy traffic.

Edited December 3, 2024 by Gripless
Links added

[Gripless]

Fitted quick release lever to OEM battery terminal…

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005754569067.html

style 8 version as only wanted the cam lever and mount.

just removed the square head bolt from OEM terminal.

with 2 washers on the lever side,

the OEM square washer from nut side swapped side and then OEM nut plus new round alloy nut to lock it in place.

 

will possibly do the positive side at a later date, but for now just disconnecting while car is sitting works ok.

 

 

 

 

testing external TPMS tire sensors. Since haltech have them as an option maybe they are good enough now.

Have done only one rear tire as they do pose the risk if they loosen the tire will leak and go flat. They have a second nut that you tighten up behind them to lock them in place but still feels a little risky.

 

Got this one but the angle of the pivot for the device bs the mount/solar panel is around 60 degrees where windscreen is under 40 so it faces downwards. That means it has to be mounted Hugh on windscreen and that ain’t great as middle of windscreen has lots of dots and is also tinited.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006245071744.html

 

maybe should have gotten this one as could either sit in socket in front of gear shift, or in the centre console storage bin socket.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005592494107.html

 

may get another pump like this to AP carry in the car. These are hat come in swifts etc that have no spare tire. Just in case one leaks.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005913525912.html

 

update…

external TPMS sensors need a spanner to install and remove, which is supplied. Just don’t loose it or forget it or you cannot fill up your tires. I had it but it makes a small task take a long time if you have to undo the sensors with the spanner and redo them to inflate your tires.

A good reason to get the internal ones.

 

Edited December 14, 2024 by Gripless

[Gripless]

TPMS hasn’t leaked still 29 psi on the one rear tire.

 

swapped out front park bulbs to led as on side was flickering. 
this was way too hard as the bulbs are behind airbox and battery. Plus they have a long flat part out the back of the holder to clear the bodywork. Being old the o rings are dry and make turning to unlock difficult. Should have silicone greased them but that’s now a future problem.

[Gripless]

Found slow leak in killer B upper reservoir from the side L fitting between the intake runners. There was a 5mm little stalactite from the dried drips underneath. But that explains the sweet smell in the engine bay.

 

Ordered new power steering pump and suction hose as current one is noisy and the upper connector is leaking even after o-ring replacement.

New from NZ is near $1000 but direct was $245+gst.

 

Looking at new mirrored or chrome coated bulbs so the headlight and tail lights have no orange from indicator bulbs. Made a nice difference on other cars I’ve had.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002381990679.html

being bulbs don’t have to replace the flasher relay either,

 

[Andy_Mac]

44 minutes ago, Gripless said:

Found slow leak in killer B upper reservoir from the side L fitting between the intake runners. There was a 5mm little stalactite from the dried drips underneath. But that explains the sweet smell in the engine bay.

 

Ordered new power steering pump and suction hose as current one is noisy and the upper connector is leaking even after o-ring replacement.

New from NZ is near $1000 but direct was $245+gst.

 

Looking at new mirrored or chrome coated bulbs so the headlight and tail lights have no orange from indicator bulbs. Made a nice difference on other cars I’ve had.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002381990679.html

being bulbs don’t have to replace the flasher relay either,

 

Have you seen the electric Volvo power steering pump people are trying these days. Not sure if there are any cert issues with it but it looks like a sweet option. Would mean the alt could get flipped the opposite way for a low running reverse manifold while still keeping AC

[Gripless]

13 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Have you seen the electric Volvo power steering pump people are trying these days. Not sure if there are any cert issues with it but it looks like a sweet option. Would mean the alt could get flipped the opposite way for a low running reverse manifold while still keeping AC

I had not…

 

Seems like a viable option but you need an upgraded alternator as the Volvo factory has an 80A fuse just for the pump unit, and a canbus controller for it.
Could interface it like the Volvo with the steering angle sensor and speed to have speed sensitivity for steering. Or s# as lower pump speed for more feedback and weight when on track.

But I guess with aftermarket ecu you can feed it via the secondary canbus if you set the ID to match the Volvo one, so no external controller etc needed. Plus can read the pump speed and any error state too.

edit…

https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/20720-volvo-power-steering-pump-can-on-a-link-g4x-pp/

seems that any canbus ecu works. Author of original external controller added his info at the end. Says Volvo pumps are unreliable and use the mopar (Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram) ones.

Edited December 18, 2024 by Gripless

[Andy_Mac]

13 hours ago, Gripless said:

I had not…

 

Seems like a viable option but you need an upgraded alternator as the Volvo factory has an 80A fuse just for the pump unit, and a canbus controller for it.
Could interface it like the Volvo with the steering angle sensor and speed to have speed sensitivity for steering. Or s# as lower pump speed for more feedback and weight when on track.

But I guess with aftermarket ecu you can feed it via the secondary canbus if you set the ID to match the Volvo one, so no external controller etc needed. Plus can read the pump speed and any error state too.

 

Pretty sure there’s a factory alternator from a Tribecca that’s way bigger than any others but may still keep external dimensions which the track subie guys go to. 
 

There are some control modules out there to control them externally. One just has a GPS so at ultra low speeds it adds max assist then slowly tapers back with speed. Hooked onto an aftermarket ECU would be ideal but that’ll be a bit more effort and cost. 
 

https://www.servtronic.com/products/new-automatic-gps-volvo-c30-c70-s40-v50-power-steering-controller-kit?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR2LGYst-5INecRFaTWGb47DWVpINB73zOkX7_Lb5wke4lu4be8Nx0988gw_aem_MnABhHFABHcxr9eD9n8aKw

[Gripless]

It’s just 2 can messages that you send

keep alive 

requested duty cycle

 

so just need a math block or table to look up the duty cycle to send.

 

Bigger alternator could be nice for running audio gear though.

[Andy_Mac]

4 hours ago, Gripless said:

It’s just 2 can messages that you send

keep alive 

requested duty cycle

 

so just need a math block or table to look up the duty cycle to send.

 

Bigger alternator could be nice for running audio gear though.

You’d still need to be able to sniff out the data to get the ECU to understand it though, not hard for a shop I guess. 

[Gripless]

On 19/12/2024 at 8:34 PM, Andy_Mac said:

You’d still need to be able to sniff out the data to get the ECU to understand it though, not hard for a shop I guess. 

Messages for Volvo one are in that linkecu post.

Mopar one just send 0x308 0x54 0x01 0x40 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 and it starts at default 70-80% duty.

as long as you send  those messages every 5 seconds or less it apparently works ok.

 

Internet has already decoded them all.
Plus you can just send data and ignore the response if you want. You won’t get error messages or rpm data back, though that’s not needed.

 

Emtron forum can likely give you an example if needed.

seems GR owners already have 110amp alternator, unlike the 75amp 90s models

 

23700AA510 and 23700AA5108A

23700AA520

23700AA521

23700AA522

23700AA570

23700AA630

3L outback and early tribeca have same 110amp

 

23700AA830 is newer bigger on later 10-14 tribeca at 130amp

 

edit…

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007865281147.html

seems 130a is on 3.6L legacy and outback as well. So all ez36 engines from 2010-2014.

plus lists the Mitsubishi electric part numbers. Which match the same Subaru models for rebuild kits etc.

 

more edit…

was looking at quick release connectors and realised that the bigger alternator may also have heavier gauge wiring so if you upgrade you may want to also redo the earth and power leads.

Edited December 28, 2024 by Gripless

[boon]

On 18/12/2024 at 9:22 PM, Andy_Mac said:

Have you seen the electric Volvo power steering pump people are trying these days. Not sure if there are any cert issues with it but it looks like a sweet option. Would mean the alt could get flipped the opposite way for a low running reverse manifold while still keeping AC

 

This is relevant to my interests, then I could run one of those lovely PW manifolds and keep my AC.

[Andy_Mac]

1 minute ago, boon said:

 

This is relevant to my interests, then I could run one of those lovely PW manifolds and keep my AC.

Exact reason it peaked my interest. 
 

@Gripless the at should be pretty easy for a tuner to sort out then. Some form of feedback if it’s unhappy for some reason might be nice if it even does that but not really needed. 

[Gripless]

Seems they are also in Hyundai cars as well so more options in NZ wreckers.

but the later 2019 units had recalls 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCRIT-19V812-3365.pdf

 

https://epasperformance.com/products/mopar-a-body

This was similar to what I initially thought, use steering angle sensor as input. The greater the rate of change the more assist.

Also says only 10 amp average during use so could get away without new alternator.