What have you done to your car today?

[Dairusire]

I didn't do it today, but quite a few months ago lol. 

I finally figured out my shutdown issue on my Type RA. 
The issue was it would start fine, run perfectly during normal even spirited driving. 

When I'd go on track at say manfield, and start giving it some absolute spanking, about half track point the car would completely shutdown. I'd have to key off, and then key back on and away we'd go again. 
It was repeatable and I couldn't figure it out for the life of me while at the track. 

 

So, replaced the battery because A. it was old AF and dying easily. 

Thought it resolved issue up until a couple months later I was at a gymkhana event here in hastings and it died under, again, heavy load, but this time the battery light was now coming on. 

Sure as heck, I checked the voltage output on the alternator and I am getting bubkiss. 

Quickly dip home, pull out a crappy old looking spare alternator I had, remove the old alternator, and the terminal for the positive is absolutely COOKED, with the nut literally welded itself to the alternator... 
Slap this new alternator on, and rush back to do the last runs and fixed. Now to just do a cambelt/idler change as these are due. 

[THUNDA]

20 hours ago, Gripless said:

https://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/
has clear codes process in the post.

codes cleared

took it for a drive and code 24 popped up again after about 10minutes, wouldn’t let me boost fully and went all slowy 

Idle Air Control

looks like I’ll be pulling it out this weekend 

 

[Gripless]

2 hours ago, THUNDA said:

codes cleared

took it for a drive and code 24 popped up again after about 10minutes, wouldn’t let me boost fully and went all slowy 

Idle Air Control

looks like I’ll be pulling it out this weekend 

 

Time to pull out the multi meter and measure resistances. But doesn’t the IAC share some wiring with the o2 sensor maybe the old sensor blew a fuse or one of the ignition relays.

[THUNDA]

1 hour ago, Gripless said:

Time to pull out the multi meter and measure resistances. But doesn’t the IAC share some wiring with the o2 sensor maybe the old sensor blew a fuse or one of the ignition relays.

Hmmm yeah not sure, when car is on the IAC sensor receives 13.8v on the middle wire which is normal I think. It only faults when I decelerate for a long period (I.e down a hill) then it goes into low power when I accelerate more than half throttle the first time after the deceleration, then the check light turns off and it drives fire until the next deceleration 

[Gripless]

40 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

Hmmm yeah not sure, when car is on the IAC sensor receives 13.8v on the middle wire which is normal I think. It only faults when I decelerate for a long period (I.e down a hill) then it goes into low power when I accelerate more than half throttle the first time after the deceleration, then the check light turns off and it drives fire until the next deceleration 

Don’t you measure resistance on the iac solenoid pins to see if the coils  are still intact and measure the same.
also if you still have AC what happens when you turn it on, Does it still idle faster and slower again when AC off.

[THUNDA]

9 hours ago, Gripless said:

Don’t you measure resistance on the iac solenoid pins to see if the coils  are still intact and measure the same.
also if you still have AC what happens when you turn it on, Does it still idle faster and slower again when AC off.

Yup you are correct I just didn’t have the time to check when I had the bonnet up, was easy to check the middle wire feed in situe 

 

when ac comes on revs go low for a second then back up to normal, same with when radiator fans kick on. It’s working normally, it just faults after deceleration- I’m thinking it might just be gummed up inside the actual IAC valve but the spinny thing on top moves freely when I remove the sensor. Parry spares has a whole IAC so I’m gonna order that regardless as I’d like a spare 

[boon]

Went to tension the aircon belt due to it being a little squeaky, and the f***ing plastic adjuster thing split.

At least my local dealer had one in stock, and at a very reasonable price. Always makes me laugh how variable the pricing can be on random little OEM bits.

[THUNDA]

16 hours ago, Gripless said:

Don’t you measure resistance on the iac solenoid pins to see if the coils  are still intact and measure the same.
also if you still have AC what happens when you turn it on, Does it still idle faster and slower again when AC off.

 

IAC Resistance

Middle Pin (12V Feed) to Either side pin = 8.8Ohms

Right hand Pin to Left hand Pin = 18.6Ohms

 

Its weird because the check engine light comes on after coasting/decel, but now if i put my foot on the clutch and let the revs drop to idle the check engine light goes away and we are back to full power again

 

I put some CRC on the thing that sticks up after you remove the IAC Sensor and its super free / no jamming, i know there is a diaphram inside though maybe Its sticky or something, might just time to pull it off and give it a clean out 

 

Installed a new fuel filter today just because they were only $35 and the one in their looked at least 10 years old 

[THUNDA]

Now getting 

 

Code 43 Throttle switch fault

 

Arrrr I’m starting to remember why I tried not to drive my old one haha, nothing breaks if you don’t drive them 

[Gripless]

I checked the car park for any fresh oil patches.

[blitzd808]

22 hours ago, THUNDA said:

Now getting 

 

Code 43 Throttle switch fault

 

Arrrr I’m starting to remember why I tried not to drive my old one haha, nothing breaks if you don’t drive them 

not trying to be a cop out but any reason (besides cost i guess) you wouldnt just want to replace it with a Link? i did the same thing with my RS primarily because i got sick of all the CELs haha. Also slightly related, are you still running the old school coil packs? One thing that solved a number of 'gremlins' was going to the newer style coilpacks and deleting the old ignitor. 

[Gripless]

Fitted new steering column shroud that fits the paddles.

 

replaced the hatch release buttons as the main one has turned into goo.  Not hard except one nut jammed up under the wiper motor took a little finesse. Remove tail light 3 nuts per side. This reveals 1 plastic screw clip per side, but leave those until last. Do the 4 nuts on inside, then free up the wiring. Then go back and do those plastic screws. The wiring has a mounting clip that you could clip off the old one before the plastic screws. 

 

swapped the pump wiring on the dual pump setup chasing a fuel pressure issue. FYI the Dremel spanner fits the radium nuts under the wiring.

then the rechargeable light ran out so gave up for the day.

[Gripless]

Did some testing over the weekend.

After idling the car up to temperature in the car park with the bonnet open the intake on turbo side was hot while the other side was barely warm. Say 70c vs 30c between sides.

 

Given the hood was open and hadn’t been making boost the turbo wasn’t very hot leads me to suspect the coolant top tank since that would be at 90c according to the coolant temp sensor.

 

The tank is a killer b one so all alloy and the mount is a 6mm heavy plate bolted to the manifold so it transfers heat well compared to old thin steel or newer plastic ones.

https://www.killerbmotorsport.net/shop/utcrv2an-b-upper-turbo-coolant-reservoir-v2-with-an-fittings-631

 

 

added some thermal washers above and below mounting plate and Heatsink to the top threads of the bolt. Total cost around $10

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/zenith-fibre-washer-suits-5-16-m8-30pk_p2310760

 

will it make any difference driving, likely not as only time that intake air will be slow moving is in heavy traffic.

Edited Tuesday at 11:14 AM by Gripless
Links added