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Posted (edited)
On ‎9‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 8:50 PM, Gripless said:

No idea why I make it so tidy and pretty just to cover it all up.

 

Because you care. I did the same with my install - nobody will ever see, but the cabling for my sub is meticulously cable tied along the transmission tunnel.

 

Meanwhile:

  • Spent way too much time attacking new rotors with masking tape
  • Fitted stubby antenna (no more RC car aerial)
  • Frowned at DRL harness shipping status - I ordered it a month ago, send me my goodies dammit
Edited by Zenki
Posted

De-badged the back of the legacy and then gave it a full cut and polish and wax. Also cleaned up the headlights. Was going to go out and get some photos today but it’s bloody raining now!

abd89d72dee5a5829c02cf43e7437b69.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

Finished sub wiring.

goes pretty well for size, shakes the front seat even mounted behind the back seats.

 

Forgot the joys of hunting rattles all over the place.

Can't fully tune the thing until the rattles are gone which take ages as some are behind trim panels.

 

so far it fills in the bottom end seamlessly. Has some serious punch and sounds clean when given good recordings. Gets a little muddy on compressed or highly processed audio though this may tune out.

 

biggest issue is the poor controls on the sub, seems like they cheaped out and them. the rest seems pretty good.

 

  • Like 1
  • Admin
Posted

Finally got the rear brakes sorted. 

DBA T2 rotors

Bendix Ultimates

 

Fronts are getting done too but weren’t in stock so should be going in in a few weeks.

 

40199357771_190a9d2292_b.jpg

 

  • Like 5
Posted
1 hour ago, Gripless said:

so far it fills in the bottom end seamlessly. Has some serious punch and sounds clean when given good recordings. Gets a little muddy on compressed or highly processed audio though this may tune out.

 

I'd be interested to compare your 12 to my 10, although I feel that a lot of the problem is my mounting location and the fact that it's having to battle tyre and wind noise.

 

Still not entirely happy with my settings - volume is fine but lows and mids in particular are still too murky for my liking, but I think my problem is less tuning and more that I've run into the limits of what a 10" slim active sub is capable of.

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
9 minutes ago, Zenki said:

 

I'd be interested to compare your 12 to my 10, although I feel that a lot of the problem is my mounting location and the fact that it's having to battle tyre and wind noise.

 

Still not entirely happy with my settings - volume is fine but lows and mids in particular are still too murky for my liking, but I think my problem is less tuning and more that I've run into the limits of what a 10" slim active sub is capable of.

 

 

Yeah I find the way you cut the fronts and the phase make a big difference. Phase out and sounds clear but lacks the mid bass.

im going to try the fronts cut higher and the sub lower. So it seems like a gap but since the roll off is shallow they add up.

that or cut using the EQ with a high Q at 80Hz.

 

i have just exhaust noise, but hope that will be fixed soon.

 

Have you bolted the sub down fully. Any box movement and the bass dies fast.

i have a feeling mine will tear out the screws pretty fast it shakes the seat pretty well :x

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Admin
Posted

Looked over a mates new (to him) Impreza S-GT (WRX).
Car looked quite tidy, popped open engine bay and noticed a yellowed clear vacuum house running to the firewall from the front of the engine.
Was hooked up to a boost sensor for the cheap boost gauge.
Followed the hose and found a large split where the unsecured hose had sat on the turbo heatshield...

Zip-tied off the hose as best I could at the t-join. Told my mate to go buy some vacuum hose and just get rid of the t-join and disconnect the aftermarket sensor.

He reported back saying it accelerates much smoother now :D
I should think so, considering the car no longer has a major boost leak.

  • Admin
Posted

Any particular go to you guys would use as a sealant for a sump? See Subaru makes one but imagine there’s something else out there that’s probably the same stuff without the Subaru label and accompanying markup.

 

May have been lazy and damaged mine over the weekend :|

Posted
15 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

Any particular go to you guys would use as a sealant for a sump? See Subaru makes one but imagine there’s something else out there that’s probably the same stuff without the Subaru label and accompanying markup.

 

May have been lazy and damaged mine over the weekend :|

When I replaced my sump I used this, worked OK for me.

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/Permatex-Ultra-Grey-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-Rigid-High-Torque-99g/5359

  • Like 2
Posted
4 hours ago, iludez said:

Hmmm... Not sure if I like them.

What you guys reckon?
Sent from my MIX 2 using Tapatalk
 

I prefer the fronts! 

Posted
Any particular go to you guys would use as a sealant for a sump? See Subaru makes one but imagine there’s something else out there that’s probably the same stuff without the Subaru label and accompanying markup.
 
May have been lazy and damaged mine over the weekend [emoji52]
+1 for Permatex Ultra Grey. Used it a couple of times now. Just don't be to stingy with it, I got caught once.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Posted
6 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Any particular go to you guys would use as a sealant for a sump? See Subaru makes one but imagine there’s something else out there that’s probably the same stuff without the Subaru label and accompanying markup.

 

May have been lazy and damaged mine over the weekend :|

Haha are you that low? xD

  • Admin
Posted
30 minutes ago, ADIKT said:

Haha are you that low? xD

 

Na not at all. Just dumb.

Couldn’t get the trolley jack deep enough under due to being SLIGHTLY lower than I used to be so just thought F*** it and used the sump as I figured it was going onto jack stands 10seconds later anyway. Was not one of my wisest moves haha.

 

47 minutes ago, Jono24 said:

+1 for Permatex Ultra Grey. Used it a couple of times now. Just don't be to stingy with it, I got caught once.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 

 

Any particular reason to go for that rather than the black one which seems to have a better oil resistance?

  • Admin
Posted
Any particular go to you guys would use as a sealant for a sump? See Subaru makes one but imagine there’s something else out there that’s probably the same stuff without the Subaru label and accompanying markup.
 
May have been lazy and damaged mine over the weekend [emoji52]
I've got the Subaru stuff if you wanna use some.

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, Andy_Mac said:

 

Na not at all. Just dumb.

Couldn’t get the trolley jack deep enough under due to being SLIGHTLY lower than I used to be so just thought F*** it and used the sump as I figured it was going onto jack stands 10seconds later anyway. Was not one of my wisest moves haha.

Bit of a woopsie moment lol  

 

I can't get a jack under mine unless I drive up on to my custom 2x4 ramps 

Posted
43 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

Any particular reason to go for that rather than the black one which seems to have a better oil resistance?

 

Sorry, I didn't read your first post properly. I have used the ultra grey as gasket sealant on my sumps when installing them, not sure how it might work without clamping pressure (not quite sure how you intend to use it).

 

It was quite regularly recommended (the grey one) on NAISOC so just took the advice from there, I haven't had an issue with it.

Posted

@Andy_Mac just make sure you put a thin line down and smear it out with your finger so when it clamps up you don' have excess spill out the sides. Silicone not good inside engines or turbos. 

Posted

@Andy_Mac +1 for grey, never had an issue with it.

the genuine 3bond white stuff is better but cost more last time I checked. Genuine stuff seems to have more rubbery stretch to it before it breaks. 

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