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My wheels are done with being Media blasted and now Powder Coated by @chulozumo! Ho boy do I think that's an improvement over the silver that they were! So. The before And AFTER!

i didn’t do anything myself but I did receive some photos of turbo installed on the mock engine in car, down pipe next. Things getting more exciting, hopefully not long to go now.

Hey guys, Just thought I would give and update as its been some time now. I managed to find all/enough evidence to satisfy NZTA for the special permit. The car is now registered and driving on the roads. If anybody is interested in having the information I would be happy to share what I have. Thanks, Josh

Serviced the donor car I bought for the race car. Old oil flushed. New filter, plug washer and oil. Radiator flushed and filled with fresh coolant. Trans was completely empty so filled with oil. Brakes bled with fresh fluid so they actually work now. Discovered the old fuel filter had been bypassed, so installed a fresh one and hooked it up. Pumped the old fuel out and put some fresh 98 in. Then checked base fuel pressure and adjusted slightly. Fixed a few other little things like the water temp gauge, the intercooler rubbing on radiator support and the exhaust rattling on towbar. Found the steering rack leaks like a sieve. Thankfully the one on the racecar doesn't. So will leave that for now. The exhaust is pretty cooked. The bottom of the downpipe is about to break off from the rest of the exhaust. Going twinscroll anyway so not needed. Also noticed its missing 3 of the 5 nuts holding the downpipe to the turbo lol. Anywho, took it for a short test drive which went well. 12-13psi on a short pull. Sounds pretty healthy and makes cool turbo noises. Next on the list: send a can of upper engine cleaner through it, change the plugs and check rear diff oil. Then I'm basically ready to pull the engine from the donor car and start getting it ready to put in the racecar.

Nearing two years later, same car, no more lip:

I put a catless bellmouth downpipe on my Impreza about 14 years ago. I guess I should get a tune before driving it =P

Think I joined 2005/2006ish... recently back into the Subaru ownership game too, trying to relive the glory days! Have added a 2004 WRX STI Spec C WR-Ltd to the fleet. First Subaru was a 2004 WRX WR-Ltd, then a 2003 Spec C that got turned into a race car and written off at the ITM400, then built a 2002 Spec C into another better race car which I sold post Covid and naturally have regretted ever since! A reunion at some point would be good value. BT

I'm not ashamed to admit that I bought one of the knockoff turbo blankets off AliExpress last year. Smoked a bit to start off with but hasn't caught fire or anything yet. The only negative is that it doesn't cover the inlet to the turbo very well. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000085676.html I also bought some snazzy Subaru logo valve caps too

Nope, there are people who prefer a single turbo and people who are in denial.

been a while since i could contribute to this thread gave her a full detail in and out, incl engine bay etc.. claybar, spot compounds for couple scratches, ultimate polish, ultimate wax. rainx on glass and blacken plastic trim bits that had slightly faded over time. more photo spam in the garage thread

Old Wainui Beach: New - shouldn't be too hard:

https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=39306&fbclid=IwAR1UdZORXARy70ruWjEDbN_WcROUDUOM4ia5VQsxn_HOmKPAKhDaa9cnOes

That's good to hear that more of you jet guys are coming back. It does suck about the different base though. If I'm lucky I might catch the legacy around the carpark sometime. I'm just on the dash. Today was wash day ready for tomorrow. I still can't get over how the new exhaust looks, as always the pics don't do it justice.

I'm on my third attempt to clean my alloys, they were really dirty from the last owner, finally getting through layer of brake dust/etching now starting to look silver. First attempt at cleaning the carpet, lots of coffee stains down the side of the seats, but need some more products to clean properly. Also Clay barred the exterior, but it will need the stone chips treating and then a good polish.

Perhaps not today but in the last week. Did my first timing belt change after about a year plus of doing the research online. Used a genuine kit from Armstrongs. Setting the belt guide spacing was interesting as well as nearly stripping out the small pulley bolt due to bad info on the internet. All in all it runs great. There was that little niggly thing where the right side pulleys didnt line up perfectly after pulling the tensioner pin. Also did the sparkplugs. I loosened the engine mounts and lifted the sides of the engine both individually putting a tilt on the engine. Got the plugs in well but it took me a week to figure out that the rattling that ensued after was because of a heat shield bolt that came loose. Took quite a few extensions through the downpipe tube to snug it up.

I don't know why on earth you guys are suggesting 98? He's clearly said 100 octane is available and it's cheaper..... Do you guys read? So yes, 100 octane man. I can also attest that in a twin turbo legacy, just going from 98 to 100 octane got rid of a slight detonation problem I was having. Definitely not 95.

Me having my RA go through wof on 235 semi slicks, swapped subframes, engine, bigger turbo, brembos, and 114.3 swap and passing.

same, amayama now have an auckland import warehouse. So no import duty to pay and NZ shipping is only $5

It has been a few years.... I see earlier in this chat that the Queenstown/Wanaka area was a big question mark for 98 but they now have it at Wanaka at the new BP just before the township. I didn't see it in Queenstown. I visited both for the airshow. Currently sitting at $3.32 before 6c loyalty card discount. Cromwell reports having it as well on the website. Wanaka does not, but I gave them a call before I travelled down and filled up there twice. I also saw two NPDs in Cromwell and Frankton with 100+ Octane Greymouth also has 98 at their Mobil as well as their BP.

Q1. No, no gains, if anything you will slightly _lose_ as the aftermarket rods and pistons are potentially heavier, less well balanced, and not quite as good a fit as OEM. Assuming identical geometry, i.e. not gaining/losing compression. Stock turb and intercooler are never going to push the limits of even the stock internals if everything else is happy. Q2. I wouldn't bother just doing one. Either it's a forged build or it isn't. As to whether you would replace the pistons.... if you buy used pistons, you have no idea of their history. If you buy new pistons they're going to cost you about $500 for a set for stockies, is it worth it? I'd say probably not. Q4. The only factory internals I'd consider an "upgrade" are V7 STI EJ207 pistons and rods, and they're >$2000 for the pistons and around $800 for a set of rods, at which point you may as well just go aftermarket. Q5. Head gaskets, OEM. Rebuild kit in terms of bearings? YMMV. OEM are probably going to be the most reliable at stock power levels but might cost a metric assload. Q6. Yes, it's fine. Honestly unless #racecar where you have specific oil pressure needs, dicking about with the oil pump seems to lead to more problems than it's worth. Q7. As long as you weren't way out I'd probably nana it to the tuner, especially if you had slightly dropped compression rather than adding it. As long as you were comfortable it was driving well enough to make that trip safely. Anything turbo is kinda fundamentally variable compression anyway because the actual resultant cylinder pressure could be just about anything. With that out of the way.... I wouldn't bother with a rebuild to factory spec. A better option, IMO, is to just keep driving it on the assumption it will blow up at some stage, and in the meantime get another block and start building that one up properly (forged etc). Then when yours finally gives up the ghost, you have the option of throwing in a bigger turbo or something and making a bunch of power.

The body is already an 01 WRX so should be adequate for cert purposes other than hoops probably

Spoiler

cheers guys my rocker cover gasket was a relative breeze For anyone with a big engine say ej254 or ez30 I recommend this Koken quick spinner part no 2756 I got this from Amazon along with other Koken tools I used on this, love my 72 tooth 150mm flex head 3/8” ratchet! They’re priced pretty well and they’re quality. I jacked the engine up off the sump, all three engine mounts have to be loosened up. I found that the easiest way to get your engine to line back up with the mounts is do the top one first, use a screwdriver or chisel to pry it in place. Use lube and a gentle hammer if the bolt needs a bit of help getting in. but be smart! Don’t be like me and jack the sump up with cardboard. Get a bit of wood! I dented my sump. It doesn’t leak, is covered by the under tray, and is getting sold soon, so all good!

Purchased a set of the optional STI BBS forged wheels to remedy one of the few I don’t like about the car. Also a bonus is less unsprung weight (apparently they are around 3kg lighter/wheel). **Images from the internet Will go from To

That or failing some form of quality control. I've purchased a few things as tests that look identical as other ones I've already had besides casting damage etc

Another revival with some pics from last year while i was hunting for forum bugs. Some updates since photo's taken as have a black plate now after seeing a mates one and couldn't resist as well as some ad08r's.

OK, so i needed to have both sets of green plugs connected. The set in the drivers A Pillar and the set in the passenger foot well that were tucked in under the ecu bracket under the carpet. I downloaded the image and had to make my own def file in rom raider to be able to read it. Thanks for the pointers on where the plugs are.

The green test mode / flash connector will be on the left side footwell 'JDM Passenger footwell.' When connected and you turn the ignition on, you will hear the fans and solenoid cycling. This is how you know you have the correct plugs connected. Also, be mindful of your battery voltage. It may close the interface if the voltage is below 12v. Ensure that lights, etc., are off, and sometimes, it pays to connect a battery charger."

It's local~ish to me so yeah I hope to make an Appearance

Most people who track a track car don't have insurance on the track either!

Got my genuine Recaro seat rails assembled and the passenger seat in for a test fit. Seats are from a 2004 Accord euro R Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

https://www.facebook.com/events/1235536986850058 Falgs has extended an invite to the entire @ClubSUB.org.nz community : we're hoing to gather as Many Subaru as possible under our Banner on the day Would be awesome to get the entire team down to Hardpark, even see if there is a way to hold a specific clubsub event around Hardpark, and help get some of these guys off the street and into legitimate motorsport. Event added to our Calender here : https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/crime/114627633/falgoon-patel-i-am-a-car-enthusiast-not-a-boy-racer-out-to-cause-trouble

My quest continues and I did find a unit in a wrecker's yard which is under warranty. However it's a small change in part number so I've asked Subaru NZ and Fujitsu if there are compatible. I'll be pleasantly surprised to get any response ! Part number of original unit: 86271AL270 - replacement cost 11,500 (WTF) Found via wrecker: 86271AL240 - cost $300 🙂

Sony gps touch screens one seem to be popular on here for replacement units. you can either go all in one replacement android units from China. or get the double DIN surround so any common stereo unit fits. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/interior/listing/3883430991?bof=Kyx20DpK most now have either a select car option that setups up the steering wheel buttons or has a mode to learn buttons. though ring Subaru head office, dealers are not exactly helpful and they may offer you something where a dealer can’t or won’t bother. edit: added link to din converter panel

TL;DR: Buy a prong style filter removal tool first, such as the Toledo one, which goes down to 60mm diameters. Thought I'd share a brief writeup on the remote mounted ATF filter replacement for the 5 speed auto. For a JDM 2008 Outback EZ30 in my case, but probably similar for a Legacy/Liberty 2.0/2.5 GT, Outback 2.5 XT, Tribeca, and possibly the rare Forester “S Edition”. These filters don't exist to my knowledge on the newer 3.6 vehicles. I was surprised to find my car had one of these filters, as they were supposedly deleted from 2008. But I guess the cutoff was after May when mine was built. They are supposedly a lifetime filter, but I have no idea if the previous owners in Japan had it changed, and 14+ years sounds like more than a filter's lifetime to me, the element is made of paper after all. The genuine Subaru/Tokyo Roki AT filter can probably be found cheapest on EBay or Amayama. but I got one of TradeMe from "redengineparts" based in Whangarei, because I wanted it quickly. This wasthe listing the listing link, or Subaru Part number 38325AA032. This video explains things well, and this other video shows the various Subaru filters cut open, and why it's best to go genuine for these. Transmission/hydraulic fluid is pumped at a much higher pressure than engine oil, meaning the bypass pressure for a normal engine filter would be completely wrong. The genuine filter also has an anti drain back valve, meaning it stays filled with the engine stopped, and there is less mess on removal. Battery removal/reinstallation is super easy, if you can't figure that out from the video then don't attempt this. Biggest issue was getting the old filter out in the tight space. I had unbolted the small wiring harness bracket to get a bit more space, but this shouldn't be necessary. The last guy in Japan had installed it a little too tight for my pliers or bare hands. The bigger EZ30 oil filters are much easier. I didn't want to risk puncturing the filter with the pliers and still not be able to remove it, so I picked up a Toledo 3 prong tool from SCA. Pics in last image of the Imgur album. This filter diameter is only like 65mm, so all the other brands were too big. There was only just enough room to get a 3/8 ratchet onto it. A short story in a photo album: https://imgur.io/a/mAl9bsN Prefilled the new filter with new Idemitsu ATF-HP, lubed the seal, checked the old seal had come out with the old filter. Then tightened as tight as my ATF covered hand could get it. Filter says 14-16Nm, but it was too tight to get a torque wrench in there. Service manual says a bit less than that anyway. Started it up, checked the gears still worked lol, then removed the battery again to check for leaks and try to get it a bit tighter. Also did my 3rd drain and fill of the pan. Shifts seem slightly smoother, but they were never bad in the first place. ECU reset with the battery disconnect may have helped a little too. I'll leave the correct ATF brand and ATF replacement procedure for another post. Cheers

Anyone making the journey down/up to CHCH for Flat Nats? Or just down the road? I'll be there in my wagon Just got an oil and coolant change then a wash and I'll be good to go.

Subaru like to reuse components... a 5 speed shifter linkage will probably be reused on every 5 speed gearbox ever made. Maybe even the 6 speeds are the same. You can use online parts catalogues (i.e. https://jp-carparts.com/subaru/carlist.php?maker=subaru) and places like partsouq (that generally know what parts are equivalent), to verify.

Then cam this weekend, and with me competing in NZRC I really don't have a lot of my own time for fun and the car has been sitting for a long time. But as with all good things! it finally happened! I entered the car into a round of the Central Region Sprint Series, it was a bit of a nice event for me as this road was where my entire rally career started two years previously. even found some 2nd hand rally tires! Well the car needed some things done, the first was both front CV boots were Bluetooth, the exhaust was lacking and the Handbrake not great for Rallying, and a Aircon that was next to useless and only restricted air into the Radiator. So a big day smashing out all of the Mechanical to do's. Wasn't able to track down a new lead for Spark plug 3. There was also the fact that the car really did not look the part, but we are also on a massive budget, but decided to do the best we ca, so we broke out the Rattle can and the vinyl I had stored away. She did look the Part come Race Day, Well to me at least, Something to break up every single subaru running a 555 variation. Honestly an amazing Day, Except for the Massive engine pulling problems. Now this I'm really someone might know what the hell is going on, New Sparks, all leads are fine and when clutch is in, car rev's all the way, But under load there seems to be NOTHING between 2k & 4K I ended up being unable to shift into 3rd at all as the rev's would just sit and the speed slowly drop, there was a few times I got 3rd at 4K+ rpm and It pulled nicely! Anyone heard of this before? I was worried it was just the car and 1600cc of Very old engine not able to handle the foot flat moments but seems to be starving of something under heavy load?

Its the wifes but still counts 😂, keeps her away from my sti 😉

Black number plate surrounds would help. Always change mine as they don’t pay for advertising 😂

Passed the cert with flying colours but driving it for the first time after doing the hoops I’ve noticed one of the speakers now hums along with the engine speed so may need to piss around with the wiring to get that back to how it used to be

Granted I didn't do it as such, and it was Monday vs today 🙄 PBMS downpipe and a tune and its back to the published numbers when it rolled of the line at STi 15 years ago (this was a make it happy/reliable tune vs having any horsepower goals). Other than those conclusions and reading the obvious numbers I'm a dyno graph newb, any thoughts from the CS massive?

The rules on overlays were less clear in the past, something about visibility from 200m in normal darkness. At some point in the last 5 years or so they made a change to the VIRM to add more clarity. So that is likely why you got away with it in the past. Sections of the VIRM highlighted in yellow represent a recent amendment (I think they stay yellow for 5 years). https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/rearward-facing-position-lamps The inconsistant application of the VIRM by crappy inspectors is super annoying and I deal with this on a daily basis. Customer says: "Oh well Bruce at Lowquality Autos has been passing it like this for years" The virm is very clear on most things if you actually take the time to read it. Many WOF inspectors are lazy and won't fail cars on difficult issues if they think is going to cause a point of contention with a customer because it reflects badly on their business. The problem is that it then makes an inspector who is applying the rules correctly look like they are being difficult when the fail a car. Stories like "I passed with x mod" do not mean they are legal from a WOF standpoint this is inspector inconsistency. If you are ever unsure of the legality of something have a read through the relavent section of the VIRM, that is the only difinitive answer. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/reversing-lamps Reverse lamps are not mandatory equipment so you could tint that area of the light or even remove the bulbs if you wanted to. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/direction-indicator-lamps Direction indicator lamps are mandatory equipment so you cannot tint over that area for a WOF

LVVTA flip-flop between being excellent and f***ing useless. Examples include the driveshaft hoop rules when re-shelling (now fixed), and their deeply stupid Facebook post about needing to cert brake rotors. A lot of LVVTA grew from old dudes with epic beards building ropey kit cars and hotrods in their sheds, not bolt-on modification of modern imports, and it showed. A lot.

Yeah we have to give the LVVTA guys a hell of a lot of respect for everything they do for keeping the laws in check. They have some interesting posts on facebook that went over how they were setup, and everything they actually do. If it wasn't for that group then we wouldn't be allowed to do anything at all to our cars. Let alone what we can do without a cert.

Car is getting a new clutch at the moment.. plus the rocker covers, rear main seal and the PCV valve and hoses replaced. Hopefully pick it up a in a couple of weeks. Front lip is gone..and I kind of prefer the cleaner look.

ECU link plug and play G4x basic tune almost makes same boost at 3000rpm as factory. no features enabled Fuel system radium dual pump cradle dual detchwerks 300 pumps radium fuel rail ethanol sensor Cooling RCM oil cooler valve oil cooler front mounted koyo radiator Other parts twin plate organic sprung clutch Top mount PW intercooler AOS self draining BPV from GFB leaked and couldn’t hold boost so replaced wth turbosmart. Aircon pump that works with the newer clutch design that does snap as often stock intake manifold with inside deburred stock exhaust headers Notes Car now runs and drives. few small issues left to sort. looking at sx-e compressor cover since bpv on intercooler. May also help boost ramp faster turbosmart bpv makes chuff noises not the Pssssh like GFB which I don’t like. Exhaust is quieter now with drone mored up rev range so not at 100kph in 6th. intake makes a s*** tonne of noise.

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Probably a write-off, I'll give you $500 for it. EDIT: Next time don't just dump your jack, sheesh, for someone who is so particular about looking after their car dropping the body 10cm+ onto jack stands seems like a strange idea, why didn't you let the jack down slowly?