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My wheels are done with being Media blasted and now Powder Coated by @chulozumo! Ho boy do I think that's an improvement over the silver that they were! So. The before And AFTER!

i didn’t do anything myself but I did receive some photos of turbo installed on the mock engine in car, down pipe next. Things getting more exciting, hopefully not long to go now.

Hey guys, Just thought I would give and update as its been some time now. I managed to find all/enough evidence to satisfy NZTA for the special permit. The car is now registered and driving on the roads. If anybody is interested in having the information I would be happy to share what I have. Thanks, Josh

Well, there's not much you can do about it now other than hope it makes its way to your oil filter and stays there. EDIT: I guess you could get a wet vacuum with a thin tube on the end and try to slurp as much as possible out? Assuming that gallery is the one that feeds the head, the first place it goes is the camshaft caps, then there's a few different places it can end up. I suspect if it gets as far as the camshaft/rockers it will get squashed to a microscopic paste and just become part of the oil. All the kinda "sensitive" places on your motor have their own filter basket, like the AVCS solenoids. The turbo, hmm, I can't remember if there's a filter on that banjo fitting. I'd say there's like a 98% chance it just ends up in the bottom of your sump or in your oil filter and goes in the bin next time you do an oil change.

Think I joined 2005/2006ish... recently back into the Subaru ownership game too, trying to relive the glory days! Have added a 2004 WRX STI Spec C WR-Ltd to the fleet. First Subaru was a 2004 WRX WR-Ltd, then a 2003 Spec C that got turned into a race car and written off at the ITM400, then built a 2002 Spec C into another better race car which I sold post Covid and naturally have regretted ever since! A reunion at some point would be good value. BT

I'm not ashamed to admit that I bought one of the knockoff turbo blankets off AliExpress last year. Smoked a bit to start off with but hasn't caught fire or anything yet. The only negative is that it doesn't cover the inlet to the turbo very well. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000085676.html I also bought some snazzy Subaru logo valve caps too

Nope, there are people who prefer a single turbo and people who are in denial.

been a while since i could contribute to this thread gave her a full detail in and out, incl engine bay etc.. claybar, spot compounds for couple scratches, ultimate polish, ultimate wax. rainx on glass and blacken plastic trim bits that had slightly faded over time. more photo spam in the garage thread

Old Wainui Beach: New - shouldn't be too hard:

https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=39306&fbclid=IwAR1UdZORXARy70ruWjEDbN_WcROUDUOM4ia5VQsxn_HOmKPAKhDaa9cnOes

That's good to hear that more of you jet guys are coming back. It does suck about the different base though. If I'm lucky I might catch the legacy around the carpark sometime. I'm just on the dash. Today was wash day ready for tomorrow. I still can't get over how the new exhaust looks, as always the pics don't do it justice.

I'm on my third attempt to clean my alloys, they were really dirty from the last owner, finally getting through layer of brake dust/etching now starting to look silver. First attempt at cleaning the carpet, lots of coffee stains down the side of the seats, but need some more products to clean properly. Also Clay barred the exterior, but it will need the stone chips treating and then a good polish.

It has been a few years.... I see earlier in this chat that the Queenstown/Wanaka area was a big question mark for 98 but they now have it at Wanaka at the new BP just before the township. I didn't see it in Queenstown. I visited both for the airshow. Currently sitting at $3.32 before 6c loyalty card discount. Cromwell reports having it as well on the website. Wanaka does not, but I gave them a call before I travelled down and filled up there twice. I also saw two NPDs in Cromwell and Frankton with 100+ Octane Greymouth also has 98 at their Mobil as well as their BP.

Q1. No, no gains, if anything you will slightly _lose_ as the aftermarket rods and pistons are potentially heavier, less well balanced, and not quite as good a fit as OEM. Assuming identical geometry, i.e. not gaining/losing compression. Stock turb and intercooler are never going to push the limits of even the stock internals if everything else is happy. Q2. I wouldn't bother just doing one. Either it's a forged build or it isn't. As to whether you would replace the pistons.... if you buy used pistons, you have no idea of their history. If you buy new pistons they're going to cost you about $500 for a set for stockies, is it worth it? I'd say probably not. Q4. The only factory internals I'd consider an "upgrade" are V7 STI EJ207 pistons and rods, and they're >$2000 for the pistons and around $800 for a set of rods, at which point you may as well just go aftermarket. Q5. Head gaskets, OEM. Rebuild kit in terms of bearings? YMMV. OEM are probably going to be the most reliable at stock power levels but might cost a metric assload. Q6. Yes, it's fine. Honestly unless #racecar where you have specific oil pressure needs, dicking about with the oil pump seems to lead to more problems than it's worth. Q7. As long as you weren't way out I'd probably nana it to the tuner, especially if you had slightly dropped compression rather than adding it. As long as you were comfortable it was driving well enough to make that trip safely. Anything turbo is kinda fundamentally variable compression anyway because the actual resultant cylinder pressure could be just about anything. With that out of the way.... I wouldn't bother with a rebuild to factory spec. A better option, IMO, is to just keep driving it on the assumption it will blow up at some stage, and in the meantime get another block and start building that one up properly (forged etc). Then when yours finally gives up the ghost, you have the option of throwing in a bigger turbo or something and making a bunch of power.

The body is already an 01 WRX so should be adequate for cert purposes other than hoops probably

Spoiler

cheers guys my rocker cover gasket was a relative breeze For anyone with a big engine say ej254 or ez30 I recommend this Koken quick spinner part no 2756 I got this from Amazon along with other Koken tools I used on this, love my 72 tooth 150mm flex head 3/8” ratchet! They’re priced pretty well and they’re quality. I jacked the engine up off the sump, all three engine mounts have to be loosened up. I found that the easiest way to get your engine to line back up with the mounts is do the top one first, use a screwdriver or chisel to pry it in place. Use lube and a gentle hammer if the bolt needs a bit of help getting in. but be smart! Don’t be like me and jack the sump up with cardboard. Get a bit of wood! I dented my sump. It doesn’t leak, is covered by the under tray, and is getting sold soon, so all good!

Purchased a set of the optional STI BBS forged wheels to remedy one of the few I don’t like about the car. Also a bonus is less unsprung weight (apparently they are around 3kg lighter/wheel). **Images from the internet Will go from To

That or failing some form of quality control. I've purchased a few things as tests that look identical as other ones I've already had besides casting damage etc

Another revival with some pics from last year while i was hunting for forum bugs. Some updates since photo's taken as have a black plate now after seeing a mates one and couldn't resist as well as some ad08r's.

OK, so i needed to have both sets of green plugs connected. The set in the drivers A Pillar and the set in the passenger foot well that were tucked in under the ecu bracket under the carpet. I downloaded the image and had to make my own def file in rom raider to be able to read it. Thanks for the pointers on where the plugs are.

The green test mode / flash connector will be on the left side footwell 'JDM Passenger footwell.' When connected and you turn the ignition on, you will hear the fans and solenoid cycling. This is how you know you have the correct plugs connected. Also, be mindful of your battery voltage. It may close the interface if the voltage is below 12v. Ensure that lights, etc., are off, and sometimes, it pays to connect a battery charger."

It's local~ish to me so yeah I hope to make an Appearance

Most people who track a track car don't have insurance on the track either!

Got my genuine Recaro seat rails assembled and the passenger seat in for a test fit. Seats are from a 2004 Accord euro R Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

https://www.facebook.com/events/1235536986850058 Falgs has extended an invite to the entire @ClubSUB.org.nz community : we're hoing to gather as Many Subaru as possible under our Banner on the day Would be awesome to get the entire team down to Hardpark, even see if there is a way to hold a specific clubsub event around Hardpark, and help get some of these guys off the street and into legitimate motorsport. Event added to our Calender here : https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/crime/114627633/falgoon-patel-i-am-a-car-enthusiast-not-a-boy-racer-out-to-cause-trouble

My quest continues and I did find a unit in a wrecker's yard which is under warranty. However it's a small change in part number so I've asked Subaru NZ and Fujitsu if there are compatible. I'll be pleasantly surprised to get any response ! Part number of original unit: 86271AL270 - replacement cost 11,500 (WTF) Found via wrecker: 86271AL240 - cost $300 🙂

Sony gps touch screens one seem to be popular on here for replacement units. you can either go all in one replacement android units from China. or get the double DIN surround so any common stereo unit fits. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/interior/listing/3883430991?bof=Kyx20DpK most now have either a select car option that setups up the steering wheel buttons or has a mode to learn buttons. though ring Subaru head office, dealers are not exactly helpful and they may offer you something where a dealer can’t or won’t bother. edit: added link to din converter panel

TL;DR: Buy a prong style filter removal tool first, such as the Toledo one, which goes down to 60mm diameters. Thought I'd share a brief writeup on the remote mounted ATF filter replacement for the 5 speed auto. For a JDM 2008 Outback EZ30 in my case, but probably similar for a Legacy/Liberty 2.0/2.5 GT, Outback 2.5 XT, Tribeca, and possibly the rare Forester “S Edition”. These filters don't exist to my knowledge on the newer 3.6 vehicles. I was surprised to find my car had one of these filters, as they were supposedly deleted from 2008. But I guess the cutoff was after May when mine was built. They are supposedly a lifetime filter, but I have no idea if the previous owners in Japan had it changed, and 14+ years sounds like more than a filter's lifetime to me, the element is made of paper after all. The genuine Subaru/Tokyo Roki AT filter can probably be found cheapest on EBay or Amayama. but I got one of TradeMe from "redengineparts" based in Whangarei, because I wanted it quickly. This wasthe listing the listing link, or Subaru Part number 38325AA032. This video explains things well, and this other video shows the various Subaru filters cut open, and why it's best to go genuine for these. Transmission/hydraulic fluid is pumped at a much higher pressure than engine oil, meaning the bypass pressure for a normal engine filter would be completely wrong. The genuine filter also has an anti drain back valve, meaning it stays filled with the engine stopped, and there is less mess on removal. Battery removal/reinstallation is super easy, if you can't figure that out from the video then don't attempt this. Biggest issue was getting the old filter out in the tight space. I had unbolted the small wiring harness bracket to get a bit more space, but this shouldn't be necessary. The last guy in Japan had installed it a little too tight for my pliers or bare hands. The bigger EZ30 oil filters are much easier. I didn't want to risk puncturing the filter with the pliers and still not be able to remove it, so I picked up a Toledo 3 prong tool from SCA. Pics in last image of the Imgur album. This filter diameter is only like 65mm, so all the other brands were too big. There was only just enough room to get a 3/8 ratchet onto it. A short story in a photo album: https://imgur.io/a/mAl9bsN Prefilled the new filter with new Idemitsu ATF-HP, lubed the seal, checked the old seal had come out with the old filter. Then tightened as tight as my ATF covered hand could get it. Filter says 14-16Nm, but it was too tight to get a torque wrench in there. Service manual says a bit less than that anyway. Started it up, checked the gears still worked lol, then removed the battery again to check for leaks and try to get it a bit tighter. Also did my 3rd drain and fill of the pan. Shifts seem slightly smoother, but they were never bad in the first place. ECU reset with the battery disconnect may have helped a little too. I'll leave the correct ATF brand and ATF replacement procedure for another post. Cheers

Anyone making the journey down/up to CHCH for Flat Nats? Or just down the road? I'll be there in my wagon Just got an oil and coolant change then a wash and I'll be good to go.

Subaru like to reuse components... a 5 speed shifter linkage will probably be reused on every 5 speed gearbox ever made. Maybe even the 6 speeds are the same. You can use online parts catalogues (i.e. https://jp-carparts.com/subaru/carlist.php?maker=subaru) and places like partsouq (that generally know what parts are equivalent), to verify.

Then cam this weekend, and with me competing in NZRC I really don't have a lot of my own time for fun and the car has been sitting for a long time. But as with all good things! it finally happened! I entered the car into a round of the Central Region Sprint Series, it was a bit of a nice event for me as this road was where my entire rally career started two years previously. even found some 2nd hand rally tires! Well the car needed some things done, the first was both front CV boots were Bluetooth, the exhaust was lacking and the Handbrake not great for Rallying, and a Aircon that was next to useless and only restricted air into the Radiator. So a big day smashing out all of the Mechanical to do's. Wasn't able to track down a new lead for Spark plug 3. There was also the fact that the car really did not look the part, but we are also on a massive budget, but decided to do the best we ca, so we broke out the Rattle can and the vinyl I had stored away. She did look the Part come Race Day, Well to me at least, Something to break up every single subaru running a 555 variation. Honestly an amazing Day, Except for the Massive engine pulling problems. Now this I'm really someone might know what the hell is going on, New Sparks, all leads are fine and when clutch is in, car rev's all the way, But under load there seems to be NOTHING between 2k & 4K I ended up being unable to shift into 3rd at all as the rev's would just sit and the speed slowly drop, there was a few times I got 3rd at 4K+ rpm and It pulled nicely! Anyone heard of this before? I was worried it was just the car and 1600cc of Very old engine not able to handle the foot flat moments but seems to be starving of something under heavy load?

Its the wifes but still counts 😂, keeps her away from my sti 😉

Black number plate surrounds would help. Always change mine as they don’t pay for advertising 😂

Passed the cert with flying colours but driving it for the first time after doing the hoops I’ve noticed one of the speakers now hums along with the engine speed so may need to piss around with the wiring to get that back to how it used to be

Hi Dunno whether you are still updating the SVX registry which I just found today? Seems to date from 2019.... I have a red/black SVX (NZ new, 1993) which I've owned since 2005. Happy to provide details if you have a format you could send, or something? How do you beat the max total size of 200kb for photos? That's kinda tiny. Maybe email me or otherwise offline? Earlier I had a Jap import SVX (metallic graphite colour) around 1999 which I sold after about a year to some guy who had no idea about them - it was WW6616 I recall.

Haha Reviving an old thread. So I ended up finding a brand new VF22 from dodsons motorsport on trademe at less than half the price of a new aftermarket turbo. They had 3 of them sitting under a bench in the back of there workshop for years thay they found in a clean up. Fitted a IWG75 wastegate actuator. Then imported a ported matched up pipe from the UK, that tappered smoothly from the 60mm header collector down to 47mm to match the turbo exhaust housing. Also ported the housing and the wastegate. Fitted soem intake manifold spacers to keep intske temps along with a turbo beanie plus the factory heatsheild overtop of the turbo beanie. Car tuned on Gull force 10 98 made 255kw at wheels and 444nms torque. Been extremely fun! Have run a 12.15sec 1/4 mile at only 104mph as i missed 5th gear so coasted from top of 4th to the line. Left some time on the table there. (I know People will debate a VF22 will make that power but thats what the dyno sheet says and the 1/4 mile time i think is representative of that power also especially coasting from 4th. Have dragy footage to back it up) Now my problem is Gull has stopped supplying force 10 98 to my local station. So I will need a retune for another type of fuel. And possibly lose some power due to no ethanol content. So considering again. A slightly larger stock location bolt on turbo, since i will need a tune anyway. Has anyone had experience with the turbo care tcrx400 turbo? Or them as a company? Also looking at the GCG again. Be quite fun to hit 270-280kw if the 5 soeed box and open deck block would take it.

I found NZ post seems to hold items a few days and puts them into a single bigger bag for courier to deliver. Previously 4-10 days was normal, now it’s 7-12 days. tempted by the short shifter but it’s pretty short from factory. I do miss the cable shifter as you can raise them up so they are close to the steering wheel and keep the same throw. All I got was the sliding cover since one wrecker wanted $175 for whole console!

The unit you've linked appears to have a 4 Core 1.5Ghz processor while the iDoing ones are 8-Core 1.8Ghz. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005992338212.html I have an iDoing unit in my Impreza. I also have a 4-core Kunfine unit and have used a different model Android unit in other car. They just aren't as responsive as the higher spec iDoing models. I wouldn't buy a 4-core unit again. I am using my headunit for graphing of engine data etc through an app - so I have a different use-case than most but this does highlight the shortcomings of a lesser-spec unit pretty quickly. Audio quality on all these android units is "OK". If high fidelity is very important to you, I would suggest to look at a name brand headunit.

Got the bigger fuel pump and injectors, factory boost cut removed and a retune at roughly 18psi, gained torque and now at 242.6kw and 445.6nm. Less boost at top end as something to do with boostcut above 6k. Alot nicer to drive down low.

Go see David at Thomsen Automotive

ECU link plug and play G4x basic tune almost makes same boost at 3000rpm as factory. no features enabled Fuel system radium dual pump cradle dual detchwerks 300 pumps radium fuel rail ethanol sensor Cooling RCM oil cooler valve oil cooler front mounted koyo radiator Other parts twin plate organic sprung clutch Top mount PW intercooler AOS self draining BPV from GFB leaked and couldn’t hold boost so replaced wth turbosmart. Aircon pump that works with the newer clutch design that does snap as often stock intake manifold with inside deburred stock exhaust headers Notes Car now runs and drives. few small issues left to sort. looking at sx-e compressor cover since bpv on intercooler. May also help boost ramp faster turbosmart bpv makes chuff noises not the Pssssh like GFB which I don’t like. Exhaust is quieter now with drone mored up rev range so not at 100kph in 6th. intake makes a s*** tonne of noise.

New decade... I'll give it a go. Think that area has changed a wee bit though

Toyota GR Yaris and the coming corolla, Nissan 350Z are a couple that are trying to buck that trend from Japan.

Crazy as it sounds, see if the Warehouse has one that fits. They do (did?) Exide and their prices were better than anyone I could find.

Post here and make the thread a sticky ?

Pre Covid I was flying the A320 for Air NZ out of Christchurch, Just got recalled back to the A320 to start in May but will be out of Wellington till a spot comes up in Christchurch.

No. Take it elsewhere. It's probably technically too loud, and you just got lucky last time. Challenging "your car is illegal" with "but you missed it last time" is not a winning strategy.