Cooling reqs for > 300kw atw

[Loren]

What are the 300kw and over cars running for cooling? 

[GC8E2DD]

300+ club stickers on the 3/4 window.

[Loren]

7 minutes ago, GC8E2DD said:

300+ club stickers on the 3/4 window.

 

I'm cool enough... more concerned about the engine  

[gotasuby]

Scales radiator and well setup ducting. Water temp sits on 93 ish on 10+km rally stafes

[YoungOne]

V-Mount intercooler setup with a tiny little alloy radiator, sits at 90 degrees on trackdays with 20 minute sessions.

[Not_Sean]

None of you guys using Radiator Sprayers? 

 

Know its not Water temps but surely keeping those temps lower will also be important? 

[boon]

1 hour ago, Not_Sean said:

None of you guys using Radiator Sprayers? 

 

Know its not Water temps but surely keeping those temps lower will also be important? 

 

Intercooler sprayers yes, radiator sprayers no. If you can keep a car at 93 degrees while caning the crap out of it with a cheap radiator + ducting, no point in the added weight/complication of a radiator spray setup.

[gotasuby]

We running fmic as well and no sprayers. We are running e85 while does burn cooler. We found on avgas we were seeing about 105degrees Temps 

[Loren]

@boon @gotasuby is the ducting just around the sides and top of the radiator inside the engine bay... or do you have ducting in the front grill area as well?

 

How much of your radiators are obscured by the fmic? 

 

Have you done anything to manage the airflow though the hood scoop?

 

[boon]

I was still TMIC, I have one of the Zerosports splitter things but not other ducting.

 

Your best bet for this is to talk to Tony, he had his setup sorted as.

[Loren]

I know a bit about his setup and am considering a seperate water cooling system for the turbo as well... just wondering what length others have had to go to.

 

A TMIC means you get more air on the radiator which probably helps a lot. 

 

 

[gotasuby]

23 hours ago, Loren said:

@boon @gotasuby is the ducting just around the sides and top of the radiator inside the engine bay... or do you have ducting in the front grill area as well?

 

How much of your radiators are obscured by the fmic? 

 

Have you done anything to manage the airflow though the hood scoop?

 

Attached photo. Just stopped air going around the radiator. Hood scoop now cools power steering and gearbox. 

 

[Optical]

Ive got a 50mm radiator and have never had water temp issues or even seen it ever spike (except for headgasket related fun)

Oil temps on the other hand...

[Loren]

Sounds like I'm having more trouble than anyone on here then  113 degrees C with just a 5km hillclimb.

 

I will put some shrouding around the radiator... macbilt think my radiator is a bit small due to the sides being trimmed to accomodate the fmic piping

and think a motorcylcle radiator added under the hood scoop might fix the problem.

Edited March 10, 2018 by Loren

[boostin]

Tried different thermostats, coolants etc? 

[Loren]

I've changed the coolant a couple of times and tried watering it down more... also just put some mo cool in.

I've drilled a couple of holes in the thermostat... I was told it would flow earlier and a bit better, but it didn't

really help. Oil cooler didn't help much either. 

[Gripless]

@Loren if you have gaps you'd be shocked at how much air will be bypassing the radiator. Without a high pressure in front and low pressure behind there's very little flow without fans.

you may just have to small a radiator in the end but try to fill as much of the gap as you can.

[boostin]

Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.

[Dairusire]

mmmmm you shouldn't be having the troubles your experiencing. 

 

For furzes car, which is 300kw, and me absolutely banging on it like a bongo drum at Ruapuna for 15 minutes or so, temp never batted an eye when it came to Water temps. Though a big difference to be fair, is the Holset isn't watercooled.

 

Have you checked your heater core btw?

[Loren]

5 hours ago, Dairusire said:

mmmmm you shouldn't be having the troubles your experiencing. 

 

For furzes car, which is 300kw, and me absolutely banging on it like a bongo drum at Ruapuna for 15 minutes or so, temp never batted an eye when it came to Water temps. Though a big difference to be fair, is the Holset isn't watercooled.

 

Have you checked your heater core btw?

 

Turbo makes a big difference... core hasn't been checked, though there are no cold spots and the radiator cools things down pretty quick once I've stopped driving. Also, no heat problems on the dyno and never any problems for road driving. If the secondary radiator, shrouding, oil cooler and mo cool don't help, I'll look at the main radiator. I would have looked at it before putting the secondary radiator in, but macbilt have said the secondary radiator for the turbo has been required on all their  WRX race cars.

 

5 hours ago, boostin said:

Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.

 

It's a new genuine Subaru 78 degree thermo... bottom pipe gets hot at the right temp.

 

Edited March 12, 2018 by Loren

[THUNDA]

6 hours ago, boostin said:

Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.

 

 

No saying boostin is wrong (imo hes a very knowledgeable fella from what i see on the forums) but I've had bad experiences with drilling the thermostat, if thermo is new and heater core is sweet you should have no problems with cooling (on idle/lower rpm - higher rpm different story)

if your unsure of your heater core and dont want to replace it just do the bypass mod, doesnt completely bypass it but allows for more flow so win win imo has sorted alot of heating problems that I know of (mainly in older cars)

 

I'll deffo be doing ducting (to force air into fmic and radiator direction without exiting at sides)

 

Try upgrading to a bigger radiator also im running the larger FENIX one - whether its better than stock I cant say as ive only logged the FENIX one but just knowing the core is completely clean and flowing well is good piece of mind  

[Username]

Redline radiator using both factory fans on there, never had an issue with water Temp, never seen it move from 90. Had many other problems but not coolant related. 

[BriteLites]

So its only getting hot under high load competition driving but not on dyno? and cools down when you stop driving? thats odd becuase you have more airflow whilst competing and none standing still other than fan? weird will be interested to hear what you find.

 

[Loren]

55 minutes ago, BriteLites said:

So its only getting hot under high load competition driving but not on dyno? and cools down when you stop driving? thats odd becuase you have more airflow whilst competing and none standing still other than fan? weird will be interested to hear what you find.

 

 

That's correct... I guess the dyno isn't as intensive as competition driving. Plenty of recovery time between power runs while things are checked and adjustments are made.  I have a laggy turbo so need to keep the revs at or above 5000 at all times... can't help things.

Edited March 12, 2018 by Loren

[boostin]

2 hours ago, BriteLites said:

So its only getting hot under high load competition driving but not on dyno? and cools down when you stop driving? thats odd becuase you have more airflow whilst competing and none standing still other than fan? weird will be interested to hear what you find.

 

Agreed, I find this a bit strange also.

 

@THUNDA, I don't condone drilling the thermostat, but it should still have had some effect. Drilling them usually just masks issues somewhere else, like heater cores.