Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×
  • Current Donation Goals

    • Raised $0.00

Cooling reqs for > 300kw atw


Loren

Recommended Posts

  • Admin
1 hour ago, Not_Sean said:

None of you guys using Radiator Sprayers? 

 

Know its not Water temps but surely keeping those temps lower will also be important? 

 

Intercooler sprayers yes, radiator sprayers no. If you can keep a car at 93 degrees while caning the crap out of it with a cheap radiator + ducting, no point in the added weight/complication of a radiator spray setup.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@boon @gotasuby is the ducting just around the sides and top of the radiator inside the engine bay... or do you have ducting in the front grill area as well?

 

How much of your radiators are obscured by the fmic? 

 

Have you done anything to manage the airflow though the hood scoop?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know a bit about his setup and am considering a seperate water cooling system for the turbo as well... just wondering what length others have had to go to.

 

A TMIC means you get more air on the radiator which probably helps a lot. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Loren said:

@boon @gotasuby is the ducting just around the sides and top of the radiator inside the engine bay... or do you have ducting in the front grill area as well?

 

How much of your radiators are obscured by the fmic? 

 

Have you done anything to manage the airflow though the hood scoop?

 

Attached photo. Just stopped air going around the radiator. Hood scoop now cools power steering and gearbox. 

 

iqSDpxG.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like I'm having more trouble than anyone on here then ¬¬ 113 degrees C with just a 5km hillclimb.

 

I will put some shrouding around the radiator... macbilt think my radiator is a bit small due to the sides being trimmed to accomodate the fmic piping

and think a motorcylcle radiator added under the hood scoop might fix the problem.

Edited by Loren
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've changed the coolant a couple of times and tried watering it down more... also just put some mo cool in.

I've drilled a couple of holes in the thermostat... I was told it would flow earlier and a bit better, but it didn't

really help. Oil cooler didn't help much either. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Loren if you have gaps you'd be shocked at how much air will be bypassing the radiator. Without a high pressure in front and low pressure behind there's very little flow without fans.

you may just have to small a radiator in the end but try to fill as much of the gap as you can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Admin

mmmmm you shouldn't be having the troubles your experiencing. 

 

For furzes car, which is 300kw, and me absolutely banging on it like a bongo drum at Ruapuna for 15 minutes or so, temp never batted an eye when it came to Water temps. Though a big difference to be fair, is the Holset isn't watercooled.

 

Have you checked your heater core btw?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Dairusire said:

mmmmm you shouldn't be having the troubles your experiencing. 

 

For furzes car, which is 300kw, and me absolutely banging on it like a bongo drum at Ruapuna for 15 minutes or so, temp never batted an eye when it came to Water temps. Though a big difference to be fair, is the Holset isn't watercooled.

 

Have you checked your heater core btw?

 

Turbo makes a big difference... core hasn't been checked, though there are no cold spots and the radiator cools things down pretty quick once I've stopped driving. Also, no heat problems on the dyno and never any problems for road driving. If the secondary radiator, shrouding, oil cooler and mo cool don't help, I'll look at the main radiator. I would have looked at it before putting the secondary radiator in, but macbilt have said the secondary radiator for the turbo has been required on all their  WRX race cars.

 

5 hours ago, boostin said:

Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.

 

It's a new genuine Subaru 78 degree thermo... bottom pipe gets hot at the right temp.

 

Edited by Loren
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, boostin said:

Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.

 

 

No saying boostin is wrong (imo hes a very knowledgeable fella from what i see on the forums) but I've had bad experiences with drilling the thermostat, if thermo is new and heater core is sweet you should have no problems with cooling (on idle/lower rpm - higher rpm different story)

if your unsure of your heater core and dont want to replace it just do the bypass mod, doesnt completely bypass it but allows for more flow so win win imo has sorted alot of heating problems that I know of (mainly in older cars)

 

I'll deffo be doing ducting (to force air into fmic and radiator direction without exiting at sides)

 

Try upgrading to a bigger radiator also im running the larger FENIX one - whether its better than stock I cant say as ive only logged the FENIX one but just knowing the core is completely clean and flowing well is good piece of mind :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So its only getting hot under high load competition driving but not on dyno? and cools down when you stop driving? thats odd becuase you have more airflow whilst competing and none standing still other than fan? weird will be interested to hear what you find.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, BriteLites said:

So its only getting hot under high load competition driving but not on dyno? and cools down when you stop driving? thats odd becuase you have more airflow whilst competing and none standing still other than fan? weird will be interested to hear what you find.

 

 

That's correct... I guess the dyno isn't as intensive as competition driving. Plenty of recovery time between power runs while things are checked and adjustments are made.  I have a laggy turbo so need to keep the revs at or above 5000 at all times... can't help things.

Edited by Loren
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, BriteLites said:

So its only getting hot under high load competition driving but not on dyno? and cools down when you stop driving? thats odd becuase you have more airflow whilst competing and none standing still other than fan? weird will be interested to hear what you find.

 

Agreed, I find this a bit strange also.

 

@THUNDA, I don't condone drilling the thermostat, but it should still have had some effect. Drilling them usually just masks issues somewhere else, like heater cores.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

    • MrSg9Sti04

      Afternoon team,
      im new to the group first time posting. Im hoping some body can help me get my launch control all dialled in on my link g4x. Ive had the computer and car all tuned from chris at prestige awesome knowlegable guy super happy with the results but now im wanting to get my launch/anti lag all dialled in. Ive been reading multiple different forums etc all with different conflicking information which has made me nervious with what do i listen to this or that if you get what i mean. Now ive started to make myself familiar with my PClink software etc the past few weeks and im eager to learn how to do minor setups or tweaks etc so im not relieing on my tuner so much and obviously saving myself abit hurt in the back pocket. 
      Now back to the question at hand.... Im wondering if theres and one who could please share there knowledge and wisdom with setting all my values, timing, fuel etc when i have launch control armed and engaged, or even a launch tune file they can possibly send me to load onto my tune. Ive figured out the setup of my digital inputs turning launch control on etc and its obvisously on its pre set factory settings. It engages but doesnt sound the greatest or as angry as it should i feel. Hence reaching out to you good buggers. 
       
      Cheers in advance for any info and help yous maybe able to give me.
       
      Cheers Shaun
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  gotasuby

      updated your DP's too : hope that's ok!
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  SAS

      Updated your DP's to reflect your business page  
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  Nachoooo

      Updated your Avatar : couldnt help myself  cheers!
      · 0 replies
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    40.9k
    Total Topics
    573.6k
    Total Posts


×
×
  • Create New...